Low point drain is stuck

[richwindsport]

Originally Posted by javelin

Just to clarify, on my 2013 ACE 30.1, I also have the same two low point pull drains on either side of the water pump......and they are low point drains. If one of these drains is frozen shut then pumping pink antifreeze into your lines through the water pump will replace the water in the line and force it out through faucets etc during the normal Winterization process. A simple plumbing diagram is attached.

Don't forget to close the input valve and exit valve on the water heater. then open the bypass valve on the water heater. This way no antifreeze will get onto the water heater.

[Norrirn]

Originally Posted by richwindsport

Don't forget to close the input valve and exit valve on the water heater. then open the bypass valve on the water heater. This way no antifreeze will get onto the water heater.

Thanks! Step 1 for winterizing is opening the WH bypass and step 2 is draining the WH. Step 3 is opening the low point drains and that is when the obstinate pop up valve was noted. Pumped in 1 1/2 gallons of anti freeze to complete the task. I felt reasonably sure that pumping anti freeze would displace any water but there was the little feeling of uncertainty about the stuck valve. The story ends well, Priscilla is securely winterized, the recalcitrant valve is now lubed up and working, God’s in His heaven, and all’s right with the world ... mostly.

[DrMiike]

Both of ours leak, any idea where we can find replacements?

[EA37TS]

Originally Posted by DrMiike

Both of ours leak, any idea where we can find replacements?

Any RV dealer will have the valves in their parts department or you can get them from Amazon.

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by DrMiike

Both of ours leak, any idea where we can find replacements?

Amazon may have them as well.

Or you can just put adapters on the tail pieces and use a screw-on cap

[Chateau_Nomad]

I located the blue and red pex under our motorhome where it exits through the floor. The stubs were long enough to install quarter turn plastic valves on the end of the pex.

The original valves were very similar to those flimsy pull-ring valves, but mine have a T-handle. Now I just leave them open and use the quarter turn valves.

[Jimbo56]

My FT A27 has no low point drains. Looked all over for them in December 2019. Logged into Thor schematics. Yep, no low point drain. However, I did figure out that the outdoor shower faucets were the low water point. Although I blow lines out with 40 psi air pressure I do open each of these last. Maybe yours doesn’t have the official low point drains.

[happy]

My opinion based on my experience is that the pop up valves are trouble prone. Any debris from any source in your water can cause a build up that can cause leaks. If the spring is weak, that can cause leaks.

Spend the effort to replace them a good ball valve and you will be happy longer!!! We used Sharkbite Ball-valves valves and extended our line with PEX as needed to re=locate the valves.. They were a little difficult to install. But now our leaking valve troubles are over for a long time......maybe forever.

[Dan-sr@perra-us.net]

Originally Posted by Norrirn

Our 2013 Thor A.C.E. 29.2 has 2 low point drains, one on the input side of the water pump, the other in the output side. The output side drain refuse to pop up regardless of the effort. Last winter, I chose not to deal with it as I reasoned that pumping antifreeze through the system would displace any residual water. I know that replacing the little pop up valve is the ultimate resolution but it’s hard enough to reach just to get a hand on tucked away behind the WP. I’ve sprayed a little PB Blaster on the thing but worry about degrading the nylon or plastic. Thoughts? Suggestion?

These valves are also affected by cold. If you wait until it is 40 degrees outside before you try to drain the system, the valves will be much harder to pull.