Originally Posted by Soldier Girl
I sure "feel your pain" - as keepin warm has been my #1 issue over the past 2 months, but my heater never quit on me, it just devoured whole tanks of propane in a nite or 2 (w/out makin much of a dent in 20įF temps), until I got some electric & battery heaters & my newest best friends, the lantern style minnie propane mr heater, the regular size mr heater & a portable propane tank. Next I'll probably be whining about how much gas the genie uses to run the a.c. - I wonder if I can run a small portable like in my house, I had a lil tower like honeywell that got a hose shoved out the window? Anyway, I truly hope you get your heat squared away!
I did a couple of things there to help with that .
1) Reflectix in the windows (this does work).
2) Foam pipe insulation along the bottom of the slide outs.
For #1, all your windows corners will likely be the same radii for the curved portions. The 90d corner are obvious. Measure all your windows so you buy enough Reflectix. I got this at Lowe's
1) Make a cardboard template for the windows' radii and test the template on all windows to ensure it's a tight fit - no gaps
3) Measure the window and add 1/4" to the dimension - this is so the reflectix stays in place w/o Velcro
3) Use the cardboard template to trace the curve onto the reflectix - a Sharpie works best here. I also used 'dots' instead of hard lines for long runs.
4) Cut to measurements
5) Place the reflectix against window and tuck the ends into the 'rails' that run along the window - these look like small pieces of raised aluminum that are parallel to and 1/4" away from the window.
6) I wrote which window the reflectix belong to on a piece of masking tape and placed that on the reflectix - but I can get anal about some things
#2 is a little more complicated below the surface, but if you buy a piece and try this w/o the adhesive first, you may see how it works. You can usually get the insulation at Lowe's cheaper than Home Depot. I used Gorilla brand construction adhesive to keep the insulation in tack and got that at Walmart. Pick up some rubbing alcohol and a rag. You'll need it to get the adhesive off of places it doesn't belong or is not wanted. Do this on a cold windy day and there's no mistake how well it works.
Measure all the gaps between the floor and the slide bottom and create a drawing. I had to use 1/2" in some areas and 1 1/2" in others. Do the math and go to the local Lowe's.
1) Open pipe insulation at the split. I had to use my finger to complete the opening.
2) Remeasure the run (I made a drawing for this and still measured again - measure twice, cut once). If you're working with a corner, use a baloney slice (45d angle) so the opening where the pipe would go marries to the other piece. If you don't, it could create an air leak, depending on its relation to the mated piece.
3) Place construction adhesive one side of the split (I did this in small areas 6" apart for long runs rather than the full length)
4) Marry the adhesive side of the insulation to the underside of the slide out; leaving one side of the slit exposed. This is so any excess is allowed to come up and overlap the inside face of the slide out floor. It also lets the insulation cover the gap without too much pressure to hinder 'sliding' with the slide out. If too tight, it will roll under itself when you put the slide in.
5) Let it all set up and cure
This worked extremely well for me and hope it does for you and others. The foam moves along with the slide out. Give yourself sufficient time. The adhesive needs no less than 24hrs for a full cure.