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Old 03-10-2019, 02:40 AM   #1
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: compass 23tw
State: California
Posts: 229
THOR #7466
OutLaw 29j

Hello,
Last week I ordered a New 29j OutLaw do you think it will be a 2019 or 2020.
Sure gona miss my Gemini.

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Old 03-10-2019, 02:51 PM   #2
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Model: Outlaw 29J
State: Texas
Posts: 26
THOR #11185
Good luck with 29J.. we really like ours..
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Old 03-10-2019, 03:13 PM   #3
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Model: compass 23tw
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Txoutlaw View Post
Good luck with 29J.. we really like ours..

Thank You,
We really like our Gemini,So we hope it drives as well & is as quiet going down the road.I know the mileage will not be good.
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Old 03-10-2019, 04:03 PM   #4
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State: New York
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Congratulations on the new rig!
What did the Dealer say?
My guess is that it'll be a 2018... unless you've specified some feature that will only be available in a 2020.
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Old 03-10-2019, 11:01 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
Congratulations on the new rig!
What did the Dealer say?
My guess is that it'll be a 2018... unless you've specified some feature that will only be available in a 2020.

They duno, I will have to wait till I get a update on my order from thor.
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Old 03-10-2019, 11:28 PM   #6
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Good luck with the new rig. Come back and visit the Gemini/Compass thread. We will miss your input.
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Old 03-10-2019, 11:48 PM   #7
I Think We're Lost!
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by safari View Post
They duno, I will have to wait till I get a update on my order from thor.
I don't think that there were a lot of changes...
By the way: what will you be hauling in the garage?
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Old 03-11-2019, 12:54 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
I don't think that there were a lot of changes...
By the way: what will you be hauling in the garage?

A 2018 Harley
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Old 03-11-2019, 01:07 AM   #9
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Fantastic... we will be around Sturgis in Aug.. Will be at the Rally
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Old 03-11-2019, 01:41 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by Txoutlaw View Post
Fantastic... we will be around Sturgis in Aug.. Will be at the Rally
Cool,But toooooo Many people, Wife & I took the ultra limited 4 years ago, but we went 2 weeks before the rally. Beautiful area .
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Old 03-11-2019, 11:52 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by safari View Post
A 2018 Harley

How about a picture ?
(Once you get everything in the same driveway...)


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Old 03-16-2019, 05:24 AM   #12
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Model: Outlaw 29H
State: Arizona
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Quote:
Originally Posted by safari View Post
Hello,
Last week I ordered a New 29j OutLaw do you think it will be a 2019 or 2020.
Sure gona miss my Gemini.
The RV will be a 2019, the Ford chassis will be a 2018. Since you're in CA check out my thread on bigger tires and suspension upgrade on my 29H. http://www.thorforums.com/forums/f27...res-11440.html Feel free to contact me for questions etc.
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Old 03-16-2019, 01:57 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by azadv View Post
The RV will be a 2019, the Ford chassis will be a 2018. Since you're in CA check out my thread on bigger tires and suspension upgrade on my 29H. http://www.thorforums.com/forums/f27...res-11440.html Feel free to contact me for questions etc.

10-4
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Old 03-18-2019, 12:40 PM   #14
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Do yourself a favor and go over the thing with a fine-tooth comb during your pre-deliver inspection AND during your first 3 - 6 months of use. You will be amazed and / or astounded at the problems you will find and want corrected under warranty.

I thought I'd post this... even though it is going to be long..... in case it helps other Outlaw owners.

I purchased a 2018 Outlaw 29H last August that we could use to take our Spyder on trips. There were some issues during the PDI and then we found a bunch of issues during our first couple trips.

I dropped the unit off in October for warranty work after two months of use and just got it back this weekend. Here is the laundry list of issues I had:

1) San-T Flush Vacuum Breaker Leaks and Floods Interior - Like many others have reported, the San-T Flush leaked from day 1 and the issue was a bad Vacuum Breaker. The problem is that it is in the bathroom wall behind the control panel and shower area. They have to take the whole wall apart to replace it. My dealer was great and got Thor to let them spend the extra time and materials to create an access panel in the wall in case it ever fails again. Then it can be replaced without tearing apart the bathroom wall.

2) Water Leak - After two months of use I had water dripping from above the drivers seat. After doing a leak test, they found the window on the slider was leaking. When they took it apart the window NEVER had the seal installed in it from the factory!

3) Floor Flexing Around Toilet - My wife noticed that the floor would flex around the toilet area. The dealer agreed and contacted Thor. They weren't sure if Thor would want us to take it back to the factory or approve them to do the repair. The dealer was authorized to do the repair and it was extensive. When they removed the toilet and cabinet and opened up the bathroom floor around the toilet they found no support of the sub-floor whatsoever in that area. They ended up also removing the black tank to gain access to the floor from both sides. They ended up adding 3/4 plywood and angled steel to build supports and beef up the floor.

4) Odds and Ends - There were some other more minor issues the dealers addressed... and didn't address. I had them also do the annual inspection for the "Forever Warranty" they offered as part of buying it. They found a propane leak on the back of the on-demand water heater (which is under the kitchen sink). They found a loose fitting from the factory.

Pretty scary the number of issues on these units from the factory but that has been reported by hundreds of people with almost every manufacturer.

It still gets better.....

My dealer was 5 hours away and they finished the work January but I was not going to drive it back home through the PA mountains in the winter. When I picked it up Saturday, the chassis battery was about dead so the guy tells me not to shut it off when I get gas until it charges up.

The LCI Levelers Low Voltage Alarm was going off but I wasn't too worried because the chassis battery was low. After getting home the Low Voltage error was still happening. After doing a lot of research I decided to put the chassis battery on a battery charger (even though it should have been fully charged after 5 hours running) and plug in the shore power.

The next morning the Low Voltage error was still occurring even though the chassis battery was fully charged so I had to start troubleshooting. I checked the easy stuff first like fuses and breakers. I then measured the voltage at the Leveler motor and it was 0V. I started under the hood and took apart all the battery cables to make sure they were clean and tight.... they still looked like new... but that didn't solve the problem.

I started tracing the heavy gauge wires from the (+) side of the battery. I had to unbolt the coolant bottle to get to a relay to check the cable connections. I then find two issues (again from the factory). The nut was not tight on the cable running from the battery to the relay and there was a 7.5a fuse that was also blown. I figured this had to be it! I tightened the cable and replaced the fuse but I still had the Low Voltage error for the levelers.

I realized what I did fix was the emergency start relay! This was the circuit to use the House Batteries to boost the chassis battery if it ever ran down. I then remembered during my PDI someone left the lights on and killed the chassis battery. When they tried to use the emergency start nothing happened and they said it was because the house batteries weren't charged enough. The real issue was the blown fuse and loose cable to the battery from the relay.... again it was this way from the factory.

Now... back to troubleshooting the Low Voltage error. I crawl under the unit to start tracing the power and ground connection points. Everything I find looks clean and tight. Then after working my way from the Leveler motor towards the house batteries, I see a few heavy gauge wires and two connection points on the side of the house battery box under the RV. These connection points are actually circuit breakers with small yellow plastic reset handles. I see one handle is in on one breaker and the other handle on the other breaker is out. When I flip the one that is out inwards it reset the breaker.

I then go inside, start the engine and I hit the lottery! The Low Voltage error was gone and the Levelers were working again. Of course there was nothing in the Thor documentation that ever covered these two hidden breakers.

So much for bringing home the RV from the dealer and thinking I would be ready for the camping season when it starts in a month!

The good news is that I learned a lot more about the Outlaw. I also learned I need t carry a lot more tools, fuses, etc. when we travel to deal with issues. I also learned how to deal with the Levelers not working and the manual override. I also stumbled on the manual override for the Slider... which I need to dig into the procedure for it next should it stop working on a trip.

I really like the Outlaw and don't want to scare you.... but it is disappointing that you can spend a lot of money for a product that was not assembled and tested properly before it left the factory. Unfortunately this is just the way it is for RV's and Campers with every manufacturer and you have to learn to accept it if you want one.

It does help if you have technical and mechanical skills. I'm glad that I do and can do a lot of my own troubleshooting, repairs and maintenance. I can't imagine owning one and not having troubleshooting and repair skills.
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Old 03-18-2019, 01:05 PM   #15
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: compass 23tw
State: California
Posts: 229
THOR #7466
Quote:
Originally Posted by Judge View Post
Do yourself a favor and go over the thing with a fine-tooth comb during your pre-deliver inspection AND during your first 3 - 6 months of use. You will be amazed and / or astounded at the problems you will find and want corrected under warranty.

I thought I'd post this... even though it is going to be long..... in case it helps other Outlaw owners.

I purchased a 2018 Outlaw 29H last August that we could use to take our Spyder on trips. There were some issues during the PDI and then we found a bunch of issues during our first couple trips.

I dropped the unit off in October for warranty work after two months of use and just got it back this weekend. Here is the laundry list of issues I had:

1) San-T Flush Vacuum Breaker Leaks and Floods Interior - Like many others have reported, the San-T Flush leaked from day 1 and the issue was a bad Vacuum Breaker. The problem is that it is in the bathroom wall behind the control panel and shower area. They have to take the whole wall apart to replace it. My dealer was great and got Thor to let them spend the extra time and materials to create an access panel in the wall in case it ever fails again. Then it can be replaced without tearing apart the bathroom wall.

2) Water Leak - After two months of use I had water dripping from above the drivers seat. After doing a leak test, they found the window on the slider was leaking. When they took it apart the window NEVER had the seal installed in it from the factory!

3) Floor Flexing Around Toilet - My wife noticed that the floor would flex around the toilet area. The dealer agreed and contacted Thor. They weren't sure if Thor would want us to take it back to the factory or approve them to do the repair. The dealer was authorized to do the repair and it was extensive. When they removed the toilet and cabinet and opened up the bathroom floor around the toilet they found no support of the sub-floor whatsoever in that area. They ended up also removing the black tank to gain access to the floor from both sides. They ended up adding 3/4 plywood and angled steel to build supports and beef up the floor.

4) Odds and Ends - There were some other more minor issues the dealers addressed... and didn't address. I had them also do the annual inspection for the "Forever Warranty" they offered as part of buying it. They found a propane leak on the back of the on-demand water heater (which is under the kitchen sink). They found a loose fitting from the factory.

Pretty scary the number of issues on these units from the factory but that has been reported by hundreds of people with almost every manufacturer.

It still gets better.....

My dealer was 5 hours away and they finished the work January but I was not going to drive it back home through the PA mountains in the winter. When I picked it up Saturday, the chassis battery was about dead so the guy tells me not to shut it off when I get gas until it charges up.

The LCI Levelers Low Voltage Alarm was going off but I wasn't too worried because the chassis battery was low. After getting home the Low Voltage error was still happening. After doing a lot of research I decided to put the chassis battery on a battery charger (even though it should have been fully charged after 5 hours running) and plug in the shore power.

The next morning the Low Voltage error was still occurring even though the chassis battery was fully charged so I had to start troubleshooting. I checked the easy stuff first like fuses and breakers. I then measured the voltage at the Leveler motor and it was 0V. I started under the hood and took apart all the battery cables to make sure they were clean and tight.... they still looked like new... but that didn't solve the problem.

I started tracing the heavy gauge wires from the (+) side of the battery. I had to unbolt the coolant bottle to get to a relay to check the cable connections. I then find two issues (again from the factory). The nut was not tight on the cable running from the battery to the relay and there was a 7.5a fuse that was also blown. I figured this had to be it! I tightened the cable and replaced the fuse but I still had the Low Voltage error for the levelers.

I realized what I did fix was the emergency start relay! This was the circuit to use the House Batteries to boost the chassis battery if it ever ran down. I then remembered during my PDI someone left the lights on and killed the chassis battery. When they tried to use the emergency start nothing happened and they said it was because the house batteries weren't charged enough. The real issue was the blown fuse and loose cable to the battery from the relay.... again it was this way from the factory.

Now... back to troubleshooting the Low Voltage error. I crawl under the unit to start tracing the power and ground connection points. Everything I find looks clean and tight. Then after working my way from the Leveler motor towards the house batteries, I see a few heavy gauge wires and two connection points on the side of the house battery box under the RV. These connection points are actually circuit breakers with small yellow plastic reset handles. I see one handle is in on one breaker and the other handle on the other breaker is out. When I flip the one that is out inwards it reset the breaker.

I then go inside, start the engine and I hit the lottery! The Low Voltage error was gone and the Levelers were working again. Of course there was nothing in the Thor documentation that ever covered these two hidden breakers.

So much for bringing home the RV from the dealer and thinking I would be ready for the camping season when it starts in a month!

The good news is that I learned a lot more about the Outlaw. I also learned I need t carry a lot more tools, fuses, etc. when we travel to deal with issues. I also learned how to deal with the Levelers not working and the manual override. I also stumbled on the manual override for the Slider... which I need to dig into the procedure for it next should it stop working on a trip.

I really like the Outlaw and don't want to scare you.... but it is disappointing that you can spend a lot of money for a product that was not assembled and tested properly before it left the factory. Unfortunately this is just the way it is for RV's and Campers with every manufacturer and you have to learn to accept it if you want one.

It does help if you have technical and mechanical skills. I'm glad that I do and can do a lot of my own troubleshooting, repairs and maintenance. I can't imagine owning one and not having troubleshooting and repair skills.

Thank You for the great wright up, & tips ,Hope you have good luck & fun
with yours.
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Bakersfield,Ca
2017 Gemini 23TR- sold
2020 29J Outlaw- sold
2021 23tw compass
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Old 03-18-2019, 05:16 PM   #16
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Outlaw 29H
State: Arizona
Posts: 108
THOR #10400
I had a lot of issues with my 2018 last year too. Spent 3 months working on it and prepping for my Alaska trip. Like Judge, I can't imagine owning one of these rigs and not being able to work on it. It would be at the dealer for a long time fixing stuff. Sorted out lots of electrical stuff, went over the wiring front to back. Once everything is sorted it's an awesome machine, but spending this much on something and having the factory quality control issues is just ridiculous. Thor should be shopping for some quality management folks to manage their crap quality.
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Old 03-18-2019, 05:36 PM   #17
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: 2016 Thor Outlaw 29H
State: Tennessee
Posts: 668
THOR #13869
These RV's are like old motorcycles, you need lots of different tools with you, to keep them going, LOL.
Mine too...
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Old 03-18-2019, 05:38 PM   #18
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Model: compass 23tw
State: California
Posts: 229
THOR #7466
Quote:
Originally Posted by azadv View Post
I had a lot of issues with my 2018 last year too. Spent 3 months working on it and prepping for my Alaska trip. Like Judge, I can't imagine owning one of these rigs and not being able to work on it. It would be at the dealer for a long time fixing stuff. Sorted out lots of electrical stuff, went over the wiring front to back. Once everything is sorted it's an awesome machine, but spending this much on something and having the factory quality control issues is just ridiculous. Thor should be shopping for some quality management folks to manage their crap quality.

Understand,My Gemini was good from the getgo just a couple of things I took care of.
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Bakersfield,Ca
2017 Gemini 23TR- sold
2020 29J Outlaw- sold
2021 23tw compass
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Old 12-23-2020, 11:21 PM   #19
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: 29J
State: Florida
Posts: 1
THOR #21612
Oh I agree!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Judge View Post
Do yourself a favor and go over the thing with a fine-tooth comb during your pre-deliver inspection AND during your first 3 - 6 months of use. You will be amazed and / or astounded at the problems you will find and want corrected under warranty.

I thought I'd post this... even though it is going to be long..... in case it helps other Outlaw owners.

I purchased a 2018 Outlaw 29H last August that we could use to take our Spyder on trips. There were some issues during the PDI and then we found a bunch of issues during our first couple trips.

I dropped the unit off in October for warranty work after two months of use and just got it back this weekend. Here is the laundry list of issues I had:

1) San-T Flush Vacuum Breaker Leaks and Floods Interior - Like many others have reported, the San-T Flush leaked from day 1 and the issue was a bad Vacuum Breaker. The problem is that it is in the bathroom wall behind the control panel and shower area. They have to take the whole wall apart to replace it. My dealer was great and got Thor to let them spend the extra time and materials to create an access panel in the wall in case it ever fails again. Then it can be replaced without tearing apart the bathroom wall.

2) Water Leak - After two months of use I had water dripping from above the drivers seat. After doing a leak test, they found the window on the slider was leaking. When they took it apart the window NEVER had the seal installed in it from the factory!

3) Floor Flexing Around Toilet - My wife noticed that the floor would flex around the toilet area. The dealer agreed and contacted Thor. They weren't sure if Thor would want us to take it back to the factory or approve them to do the repair. The dealer was authorized to do the repair and it was extensive. When they removed the toilet and cabinet and opened up the bathroom floor around the toilet they found no support of the sub-floor whatsoever in that area. They ended up also removing the black tank to gain access to the floor from both sides. They ended up adding 3/4 plywood and angled steel to build supports and beef up the floor.

4) Odds and Ends - There were some other more minor issues the dealers addressed... and didn't address. I had them also do the annual inspection for the "Forever Warranty" they offered as part of buying it. They found a propane leak on the back of the on-demand water heater (which is under the kitchen sink). They found a loose fitting from the factory.

Pretty scary the number of issues on these units from the factory but that has been reported by hundreds of people with almost every manufacturer.

It still gets better.....

My dealer was 5 hours away and they finished the work January but I was not going to drive it back home through the PA mountains in the winter. When I picked it up Saturday, the chassis battery was about dead so the guy tells me not to shut it off when I get gas until it charges up.

The LCI Levelers Low Voltage Alarm was going off but I wasn't too worried because the chassis battery was low. After getting home the Low Voltage error was still happening. After doing a lot of research I decided to put the chassis battery on a battery charger (even though it should have been fully charged after 5 hours running) and plug in the shore power.

The next morning the Low Voltage error was still occurring even though the chassis battery was fully charged so I had to start troubleshooting. I checked the easy stuff first like fuses and breakers. I then measured the voltage at the Leveler motor and it was 0V. I started under the hood and took apart all the battery cables to make sure they were clean and tight.... they still looked like new... but that didn't solve the problem.

I started tracing the heavy gauge wires from the (+) side of the battery. I had to unbolt the coolant bottle to get to a relay to check the cable connections. I then find two issues (again from the factory). The nut was not tight on the cable running from the battery to the relay and there was a 7.5a fuse that was also blown. I figured this had to be it! I tightened the cable and replaced the fuse but I still had the Low Voltage error for the levelers.

I realized what I did fix was the emergency start relay! This was the circuit to use the House Batteries to boost the chassis battery if it ever ran down. I then remembered during my PDI someone left the lights on and killed the chassis battery. When they tried to use the emergency start nothing happened and they said it was because the house batteries weren't charged enough. The real issue was the blown fuse and loose cable to the battery from the relay.... again it was this way from the factory.

Now... back to troubleshooting the Low Voltage error. I crawl under the unit to start tracing the power and ground connection points. Everything I find looks clean and tight. Then after working my way from the Leveler motor towards the house batteries, I see a few heavy gauge wires and two connection points on the side of the house battery box under the RV. These connection points are actually circuit breakers with small yellow plastic reset handles. I see one handle is in on one breaker and the other handle on the other breaker is out. When I flip the one that is out inwards it reset the breaker.

I then go inside, start the engine and I hit the lottery! The Low Voltage error was gone and the Levelers were working again. Of course there was nothing in the Thor documentation that ever covered these two hidden breakers.

So much for bringing home the RV from the dealer and thinking I would be ready for the camping season when it starts in a month!

The good news is that I learned a lot more about the Outlaw. I also learned I need t carry a lot more tools, fuses, etc. when we travel to deal with issues. I also learned how to deal with the Levelers not working and the manual override. I also stumbled on the manual override for the Slider... which I need to dig into the procedure for it next should it stop working on a trip.

I really like the Outlaw and don't want to scare you.... but it is disappointing that you can spend a lot of money for a product that was not assembled and tested properly before it left the factory. Unfortunately this is just the way it is for RV's and Campers with every manufacturer and you have to learn to accept it if you want one.

It does help if you have technical and mechanical skills. I'm glad that I do and can do a lot of my own troubleshooting, repairs and maintenance. I can't imagine owning one and not having troubleshooting and repair skills.

I’ve had by 2018 outlaw 29J for two years. I can say if all Rv’s have issues I am terrified to purchase a new one lol! After dealing with all the one's I’ve had and currently have with mine. I can say it drives down the road perfectly fine.
I would live more guidance on the levelers low voltage error as that’s may new issue.

Maybe we can trade info as I have already dealt with the slide issue. Currently my slide is completely manual as I had to pop both motors out to close the slide that was stuck 4 inches from being in. After hours on the phone we traced it to a voltage regulator that possibly was bad. Crazy the motors work just fine. There is no manual override which I think is silly. I still love my coach you do have to make sure you have a pretty good tool box and plenty of red tape lol
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Old 04-26-2022, 07:20 PM   #20
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
State: Tennessee
Posts: 1
THOR #26066
Upgrade 29J

I put my 2014 HD Ultra Classic. It is right at the weight of 900# so I am having "air bags" installed with a stabilizer in the front. The bags themselves can be inflated up to 500# which should take care of my support issues. Also, the dealer is installing a front stabilizer bar. I thought all RV's had front stabilizers however, I cannot find any info on this.

Also, the radio likes to "freeze screen" after using my turn signals. I might turn the cameras off to see if this fixes the problem. Nothing like seeing vertical lines over the radio screen.

Has anyone replaced the radio (system) on the Ford dashboard? I have a 2017 F350 with an awesome dashboard, this is nothing like it, and in my opinion must be replaced. I can't imagine why there is a remote for the radio.

thoughts?
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