The entire motorhome "box" and frame are twisted to some degree when the jacks are lifting a corner. If the auto-leveling feature doesn't take this into account, it can be quite a lot of twisting/torqueing.
I always manually level, and use the following procedure which
seems to minimize the twisting/torqueing/creaking of the motorhome structure.
BEFORE extending the slide...
Stabilizing:
Starting with the FRONT, I drop each jack JUST to
solid ground contact, but NOT LIFTING the coach. If the coach is unlevel side-to-side, the low-side jack is obviously extended more than the other. Then I repeat the same scenario with the rear jacks. At this point, the coach is STABILIZED, but not level.
Technically, I don't think it matters what jacks you start with; you are NOT trying to lift the frame here... just
transferring support of the coach from the suspension to the jacks.
Leveling side-to-side:
For the leveling process, I simultaneously press the FRONT AND REAR buttons on the low-side jacks... raising ONLY the
SIDE which is lowest until close to level side-to-side.
Leveling front-to-rear:
For the front-to-rear leveling, depending on which
END is LOW, I simultaneously press either both FRONT or both REAR jack buttons until close to level.
Adjustments:
At this point it's close... but almost always needs "fine tuned". From experience, I know about how much to compensate for when the slide is extended... we like our heads a little higher than feet, so technically we're just slightly off level side-to-side, but nearly perfect front-to-rear.
Note that I try to avoid moving the jacks after the slide is extended... although I initially had to do this a few times until I figured out my reference point.
Hope that helps!!