Residential Fridge and Battery Problems

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Mablunk

Dk
It is a residential Danby fridge, Model DPF073C1BSLDD.

Great, so propane is not an option for powering that fridge so we can rule gas / propane out of the equation.

When we were attached to SP we had the master power button on, it was red, if it’s not on the led lights don’t work or the GPS axxera radio.

It is safe to say the Master Power Switch or also called House Disconnect Switch or called Use Store Switch should always be on. Don't just go by the light but look at the switch to make sure it is physically in the On position. If doubts, to be 100% sure, disconnect from shorepower and then turn the switch on, when light is On leave it and not worry about that switch any more until you get past this issue. You may never need that switch, but have that discussion on another day

Note: We should make sure that the switch I am referring to above is NOT the switch for the Inverter in either of the pictures above.

Ahh, something else. My niece unplugged the fridge from the inverter because it started beeping while she slept, turned off the inverter and plugged the fridge directly into an outlet so the fridge was running on strictly SP. Would the inverter being off cause the house batteries not to charge?
No, the Inverter has nothing to do with batteries charging, the Converter does that, but again trying to take this in steps so as to not confuse

Are you saying the coach came with the Fridge plugged directly in the Inverter you have picture above?

When fridge is ON, plugged directly into Inverter, and the Inverter Switch is on (any one of the two switches you took pictures of); then it will get power from the batteries and it is possible that overnight voltage on batteries will drop below 12.5vdc and the red light blinks.

Now here is the thing. I am surprised that you would have to plug and unplug your fridge to run it off shore power versus the inverter? Where was the fridge plugged in originally? Unless it was installed by someone else the plug should work with both SP or the Inverter. So if it is on inverter (meaning battery power) and then you connect SP outside if you have a transfer switch ( you may not?) it will allow the power from Shore to pass thru. But at the same time if it is direct to Inverter, the SP power should turn on Converter which will put a charge on the batteries so the fridge does not drain the batteries down. The latter will ONLY BE TRUE if your House Use/Store switch is in Use mode. I am not 100% certain that you are distincting the two Inverter Switches; versus the House Use Store Switch? If the House Use Store Switch is OFF, your batteries will not charge with SP.

[Mablunk]

Dkoldman

[Mablunk]

Originally Posted by dkoldman

Are you saying the coach came with the Fridge plugged directly in the Inverter you have picture above?

When fridge is ON, plugged directly into Inverter, and the Inverter Switch is on (any one of the two switches you took pictures of); then it will get power from the batteries and it is possible that overnight voltage on batteries will drop below 12.5vdc and the red light blinks.

Now here is the thing. I am surprised that you would have to plug and unplug your fridge to run it off shore power versus the inverter? Where was the fridge plugged in originally? Unless it was installed by someone else the plug should work with both SP or the Inverter. So if it is on inverter (meaning battery power) and then you connect SP outside if you have a transfer switch ( you may not?) it will allow the power from Shore to pass thru. But at the same time if it is direct to Inverter, the SP power should turn on Converter which will put a charge on the batteries so the fridge does not drain the batteries down. The latter will ONLY BE TRUE if your House Use/Store switch is in Use mode. I am not 100% certain that you are distincting the two Inverter Switches; versus the House Use Store Switch? If the House Use Store Switch is OFF, your batteries will not charge with SP.

The fridge was only disconnected from the inverter because the house batteries were not charging. The Use/ Store switch has to show a red light for anything in house to work, lights, microwave etc. (which I assume means it’s on) and not in Store mode.
The house batteries are basically 5 yrs old. I’m thinking that’s the trouble. We will try the other things mentioned by you and ACE16.
The only reason the fridge was plugged into a regular outlet instead of the inverter while on SP is because the inverter would not have enough power.
So then, what would make the batteries lose charge while on SP?
Did you see the pic of the main power button? Usually it will be glowing red but now that it’s not on SP it won’t come on at all.
Is that the correct switch?

[dkoldman]

Is this what you have?

Also where is you Master Switch / Use Store Switch to disconnect the Batteries?

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Mablunk

The fridge was only disconnected from the inverter because the house batteries were not charging. The Use/ Store switch has to show a red light for anything in house to work, lights, microwave etc. (which I assume means it’s on) and not in Store mode.
The house batteries are basically 5 yrs old. I’m thinking that’s the trouble. We will try the other things mentioned by you and ACE16.
The only reason the fridge was plugged into a regular outlet instead of the inverter while on SP is because the inverter would not have enough power.
So then, what would make the batteries lose charge while on SP?

Ok, this makes sense and explains a lot for me.

If they are the OEM Thor batteries you can be sure they are ready to be replaced.

I am gonna assume you know how to verify the Use / Store switch is on ( not simply by going by the light?) If you disconnect from SP then you can go by the light.

Your tests tomorrow evening will confirm.

[Mablunk]

The dealership said the main power switch has to be on anytime we’re using the mh otherwise the led lights, radio, fridge, slide will not work.
Did you see the main power pic I sent right before your last reply?
Is that the use/ store switch?

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Mablunk

Did you see the pic of the main power button? Usually it will be glowing red but now that it’s not on SP it won’t come on at all. Attachment 40041
Is that the correct switch?

Yes that is the correct switch.
It is confirming you are not getting power from the house batteries.

It is too bad Thor does not label that Switch as either Use / Store or Off / On so you can be sure, but regardless the batteries are likely dead.

If you were getting good power from batteries and you toggle that switch no shore power the Red light would go off and on, but if you have SP on the Red light will stay on ALL the time, but the switch could be OFF but you not know it. In that last scenario even though you have SP and your charger would not be working. Your best case scenario is that the switch got inadvertently turned off and it caused your batteries to drain down really low, the Test the ACE suggest will confirm. A load test will also confirm if your batteries can even hold a charge.

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Mablunk

The dealership said the main power switch has to be on anytime we’re using the mh otherwise the led lights, radio, fridge, slide will not work.
Did you see the main power pic I sent right before your last reply?
Is that the use/ store switch?

Yes, what the dealer says is true. If in Store mode (Switch off) nothing should work.

I do see the picture, and yes that is Use / Store switch. Do you know / remember if you push in the top side to be in Use Mode or push in the bottom side to be in Use mode? I am thinking your switch may have accidentally got pushed into Store Mode

[Mablunk]

Originally Posted by dkoldman

Are you saying the coach came with the Fridge plugged directly in the Inverter you have picture above?

Yes!

When fridge is ON, plugged directly into Inverter, and the Inverter Switch is on (any one of the two switches you took pictures of); then it will get power from the batteries and it is possible that overnight voltage on batteries will drop below 12.5vdc and the red light blinks.

THATS WHAT I THINK TOO.

Now here is the thing. I am surprised that you would have to plug and unplug your fridge to run it off shore power versus the inverter? Where was the fridge plugged in originally? Unless it was installed by someone else the plug should work with both SP or the Inverter. So if it is on inverter (meaning battery power) and then you connect SP outside if you have a transfer switch ( you may not?) it will allow the power from Shore to pass thru.
I’M NOT SURE WE DO HAVE A TRANSFER SWITCH UNLESS IT IS THIS SWITCH


But at the same time if it is direct to Inverter, the SP power should turn on Converter which will put a charge on the batteries so the fridge does not drain the batteries down. The latter will ONLY BE TRUE if your House Use/Store switch is in Use mode. I am not 100% certain that you are distincting the two Inverter Switches; versus the House Use Store Switch? If the House Use Store Switch is OFF, your batteries will not charge with SP.

MAIN POWER SWITCH IS ALWAYS ON EVEN WITH SP. UNLESS WE AREN’T USING THE MH.

I’M trying to get the hang of this site. That’s why I’ve been using all caps.
I’m not upset or anything. Even tho all caps looks like it. I appreciate the [emoji254] flowers. [emoji3526]

[Mablunk]

Originally Posted by dkoldman

Yes that is the correct switch.
It is confirming you are not getting power from the house batteries.

It is too bad Thor does not label that Switch as either Use / Store or Off / On so you can be sure, but regardless the batteries are likely dead.

If you were getting good power from batteries and you toggle that switch no shore power the Red light would go off and on, but if you have SP on the Red light will stay on ALL the time, but the switch could be OFF but you not know it. In that last scenario even though you have SP and your charger would not be working. Your best case scenario is that the switch got inadvertently turned off and it caused your batteries to drain down really low, the Test the ACE suggest will confirm. A load test will also confirm if your batteries can even hold a charge.

It is a strong possibility that it got switched off. I thought if the red light was on it meant it was on. But if it stays red with SP that could very well explain it. I remember switching it accidentally trying to turn on the overhead lights. I bet I turned it off. Dopey me![emoji2955].
Someone needs to make a book Motorhomes For Dummies. Maybe life would be easier.
Thanks lots!
We’ll do the suggestions tomorrow. Then probably drive it to Oreilly’s if the batts are dead.
If you guys don’t hear back from me, we’re probably stuck on the road somewhere. [emoji1787]

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Mablunk

MAIN POWER SWITCH IS ALWAYS ON EVEN WITH SP. UNLESS WE AREN’T USING THE MH.

I’M trying to get the hang of this site. That’s why I’ve been using all caps.
I’m not upset or anything. Even tho all caps looks like it. I appreciate the [emoji254] flowers. [emoji3526]

No you do not have a Inverter Transfer Switch, that is why you are plugged direct to the Inverter underneath the fridge. In your case, your Inverter is dedicated 100% to Fridge which is perfectly normal. Just wasn't clear at first.

I am still not convinced that your Main Power Switch was ON when your failure started. I am also not sure you see, or follow the scenario where you could have SP and that Main Switch could actually be OFF, but you not know it because you see the RED light and see LED lights on. Those things are on because you have SP.

I am pretty sure dealer was saying all things go OFF when Main Power Switch is OFF ( which is true) but not if you have Shorepower. That Switch is only cutting power Off / On from / To the Batteries.

Below is an example from my Coach. I have a SOB (Some other brand) but it all works the same.

My switch is clearly labeled ON/OFF; I suggest when we get issue resolve you mark your switch so it is easy to tell for future.

My switch has a smaller Green LED that tells me I have power on my 12vdc Buss. That power can be from SP or from my batteries.

I said it that way because if I turn the switch OFF, and no SP; the Green LED is black as you would expect.

But if I connect SP, that Green LED will be Green and it will not matter if the switch is OFF or ON. That Switch can be OFF, and if I have SP, my Fridge is on, my LED Lights are on etc.

So all of this to say, that if SP is connected, and your switch is OFF, your converter will not charge your batteries because you have told the RV the batteries are in Store Mode. The way your coach was wired the Fridge only works off battery and you can turn the Fridge power On/OFF using Inverter Switch on wall next to Fridge.

Note: You may have that Use switch to ON and have some other problem, I was only trying to definitively eliminate the Use / Store Switch position.

FWIW, we tried to buy the ACE 29.3 with Residential fridge. Only a few were made with the Residential fridge and I wanted one. It did not work out, I was adamant for Residential fridge because I had heard so many bad things about Norcold and Propane. As fate would have it, we got Norcold and Propane so we have 3 ways to power our Fridge.

[Mablunk]

Originally Posted by dkoldman

No you do not have a Inverter Transfer Switch, that is why you are plugged direct to the Inverter underneath the fridge. In your case, your Inverter is dedicated 100% to Fridge which is perfectly normal. Just wasn't clear at first.

I am still not convinced that your Main Power Switch was ON when your failure started. I am also not sure you see, or follow the scenario where you could have SP and that Main Switch could actually be OFF, but you not know it because you see the RED light and see LED lights on. Those things are on because you have SP.

I am pretty sure dealer was saying all things go OFF when Main Power Switch is OFF ( which is true) but not if you have Shorepower. That Switch is only cutting power Off / On from / To the Batteries.

Below is an example from my Coach. I have a SOB (Some other brand) but it all works the same.

My switch is clearly labeled ON/OFF; I suggest when we get issue resolve you mark your switch so it is easy to tell for future.

My switch has a smaller Green LED that tells me I have power on my 12vdc Buss. That power can be from SP or from my batteries.

I said it that way because if I turn the switch OFF, and no SP; the Green LED is black as you would expect.

But if I connect SP, that Green LED will be Green and it will not matter if the switch is OFF or ON. That Switch can be OFF, and if I have SP, my Fridge is on, my LED Lights are on etc.

So all of this to say, that if SP is connected, and your switch is OFF, your converter will not charge your batteries because you have told the RV the batteries are in Store Mode. The way your coach was wired the Fridge only works off battery and you can turn the Fridge power On/OFF using Inverter Switch on wall next to Fridge.

Note: You may have that Use switch to ON and have some other problem, I was only trying to definitively eliminate the Use / Store Switch position.

FWIW, we tried to buy the ACE 29.3 with Residential fridge. Only a few were made with the Residential fridge and I wanted one. It did not work out, I was adamant for Residential fridge because I had heard so many bad things about Norcold and Propane. As fate would have it, we got Norcold and Propane so we have 3 ways to power our Fridge.

This am we hooked up a battery charger, it read 8.8. So they are hooked up now. I pushed the main power to the up position and the red light came on and the inverter started beeping. Once the batteries charge, we will unhook the charger, and see what happens.
If the red light stays on and lights inverter still work, I will put ‘ON’ above the switch which is the direction I flipped it to get any power inside.
So, IF that works, we will hook it up to shore power and fully charge the house batteries and go from there.
I left the main switch on plus the inverter on. Fridge everything else off, to hopefully accelerate battery charging.

I took pics inside the battery compartment of the batteries and other (electric?) stuff in that compartment.
You ask about a transfer switch. I can send the pics and see if you see a transfer switch.

Btw, we don’t know how to use the voltmeter. My niece took it all out of the pkg plus instructions. Can’t find instructions. Can probably Google for info tho. I’ll take pics of it too.

Thanks again

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Mablunk

This am we hooked up a battery charger, it read 8.8. So they are hooked up now. I pushed the main power to the up position and the red light came on and the inverter started beeping. Once the batteries charge, we will unhook the charger, and see what happens.
If the red light stays on and lights inverter still work, I will put ‘ON’ above the switch which is the direction I flipped it to get any power inside.
So, IF that works, we will hook it up to shore power and fully charge the house batteries and go from there.
I left the main switch on plus the inverter on. Fridge everything else off, to hopefully accelerate battery charging.

I took pics inside the battery compartment of the batteries and other (electric?) stuff in that compartment.
You ask about a transfer switch. I can send the pics and see if you see a transfer switch.

Btw, we don’t know how to use the voltmeter. My niece took it all out of the pkg plus instructions. Can’t find instructions. Can probably Google for info tho. I’ll take pics of it too.

Thanks again

You doing good, be patient to allow to fully charge, you learn more and grasp some understanding on how it all works.

Don't worry about the transfer switch because from what I can grasp thus far; I don't believe it came with your coach. If you had one think of it like the Transfer Switch in Electrical Compartment. When you plug in shore power and/or start generator it automatically switches for you. A Inverter Transfer Switch does the same. when you plug in shore power and / or turn on Inverter it automatically switches for you. Your fridge is directly plugged into Inverter so your inverter probably does not provide power to any of the receptacles in the RV.

Get a picture of the voltmeter and someone can tell you how to setup to read DC voltages. It is likely 20 VDC on the dial. The red will touch the house battery + post while the Black will touch the same battery negative post. Make sure no SP or charger is on.

If you are lucky it will charge up to 12.7 vdc or higher and hold, the fridge will work off the inverter and you will keep that switch ON; but be aware if You do not have SP, Generator or Engine running, eventually that Fridge will drain down your battery again. It is likely depending on quality and age of batteries, it cannot make it overnight that is why it keeps beeping to warn you. You still need to test the batteries, I would change them to AGMs and get more AH capacity even if they work because I know they are 5 years old.

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by Mablunk

This am we hooked up a battery charger, it read 8.8. So they are hooked up now. I pushed the main power to the up position and the red light came on and the inverter started beeping. Once the batteries charge, we will unhook the charger, and see what happens.
If the red light stays on and lights inverter still work, I will put ‘ON’ above the switch which is the direction I flipped it to get any power inside.
So, IF that works, we will hook it up to shore power and fully charge the house batteries and go from there.
I left the main switch on plus the inverter on. Fridge everything else off, to hopefully accelerate battery charging.

I took pics inside the battery compartment of the batteries and other (electric?) stuff in that compartment.
You ask about a transfer switch. I can send the pics and see if you see a transfer switch.



Btw, we don’t know how to use the voltmeter. My niece took it all out of the pkg plus instructions. Can’t find instructions. Can probably Google for info tho. I’ll take pics of it too.

Thanks again

Since the red light came on you know the battery disconnect is shut (in USE/Master Power ON). Plug into SP now and let the converter charge the batteries - it will likely do it much faster. Also, check the water levels in your batteries if you haven' already.

[Bill Johnson]

Originally Posted by Mablunk

Dk
It is a residential Danby fridge, Model DPF073C1BSLDD.
When we were attached to SP we had the master power button on, it was red, if it’s not on the led lights don’t work or the GPS axxera radio.

Ahh, something else. My niece unplugged the fridge from the inverter because it started beeping while she slept, turned off the inverter and plugged the fridge directly into an outlet so the fridge was running on strictly SP. Would the inverter being off cause the house batteries not to charge?

That's better, I looked up Dometic and they don't make a 120 volt fridge

[Mablunk]

Originally Posted by 16ACE27

Since the red light came on you know the battery disconnect is shut (in USE/Master Power ON). Plug into SP now and let the converter charge the batteries - it will likely do it much faster. Also, check the water levels in your batteries if you haven' already.

The batteries charged to 47%. Then we disconnected the charger. Made sure the red light was still on. Then hooked up to SP. Inverter all green, and can hear the converter under the bed running. That’s a good thing, right? Microwave shows it’s on. Fridge lite comes on.
Now what? We have these 2 meters. Not sure how to use them or if they’re even the right things.

We don’t have the instructions. The niece knew what she was doing and discarded them.
On the first pic. Is red negative or is black negative?

[HMCSW]

Originally Posted by Mablunk

We have a 2018 Thor Ace 30.4. It has the Dometic fridge. There is an inverter under the fridge.
I have 2 questions.
1) what would cause the inverter to beep? Even when on shore power.
2) how do we switch the fridge to propane?
Thanks in advance.

Do you keep your batteries with the correct amount of water? Too low water batteries will not hold charge
If the batteries get too low the solenoid to start the generator will not work. I had this happen when left with dealer for warranty work. They Let the house batteries get so low we needed to use a jump pack on the house batteries which let us start the generator.

[Mablunk]

Originally Posted by dkoldman

You doing good, be patient to allow to fully charge, you learn more and grasp some understanding on how it all works.

Don't worry about the transfer switch because from what I can grasp thus far; I don't believe it came with your coach. If you had one think of it like the Transfer Switch in Electrical Compartment. When you plug in shore power and/or start generator it automatically switches for you. A Inverter Transfer Switch does the same. when you plug in shore power and / or turn on Inverter it automatically switches for you. Your fridge is directly plugged into Inverter so your inverter probably does not provide power to any of the receptacles in the RV.

Get a picture of the voltmeter and someone can tell you how to setup to read DC voltages. It is likely 20 VDC on the dial. The red will touch the house battery + post while the Black will touch the same battery negative post. Make sure no SP or charger is on.

If you are lucky it will charge up to 12.7 vdc or higher and hold, the fridge will work off the inverter and you will keep that switch ON; but be aware if You do not have SP, Generator or Engine running, eventually that Fridge will drain down your battery again. It is likely depending on quality and age of batteries, it cannot make it overnight that is why it keeps beeping to warn you. You still need to test the batteries, I would change them to AGMs and get more AH capacity even if they work because I know they are 5 years old.

When we store it for winter then would we want to disconnect the neg poles on the batteries? Or could we just unplug the fridge and turn off the inverter and the store button? Then rehook in the spring.
My profile says Alabama. We’re in S Indiana. So we do get below freezing here.

[Mablunk]

Originally Posted by dkoldman

You doing good, be patient to allow to fully charge, you learn more and grasp some understanding on how it all works.

If you are lucky it will charge up to 12.7 vdc or higher and hold, the fridge will work off the inverter and you will keep that switch ON; but be aware if You do not have SP, Generator or Engine running, eventually that Fridge will drain down your battery again. It is likely depending on quality and age of batteries, it cannot make it overnight that is why it keeps beeping to warn you. You still need to test the batteries, I would change them to AGMs and get more AH capacity even if they work because I know they are 5 years old.

I would change them to AGMs and get more AH capacity even if they work because I know they are 5 years old.[/

DK what is AGM and AH?
Any particular brand?

[Mablunk]

DK and ACE27

‘QUOTE=Collin Kieffer;366346]
I bought 2 Renogy AGM Group 27 12V100Ah20 Hr. batteries. My original batteries were Group 27 so I did measure my battery compartment and they should fit. Paid $539.98 for the two of them shipped Free. ‘


Are these what we need?
Or I saw this post. We want to get a portable solar kit eventually. So would these be better? Our mh is solar ready. We do boondock quite often.

Originally Posted by Scubawise

Got 2 of these. Love them. 25,000 miles. Dry camp 80% of the time. Keeps fridge going. Heater going all night.
Solar charges fast. Inverter works great and with microwave.

VMAX SLR125 AGM Battery 12V 125Ah Deep Cycle Solar Battery Compatible with Solar Backup Off-Grid RV


https://a.co/d/3YcLubX

Don’t really know what to get, but I don’t think we want the same batts we have.

TIA. Mablunk