Residential Fridge and Battery Problems

[Bill Johnson]

Originally Posted by dkoldman

But then you have to learn an additional button automatic or manual.

I do have serious question though, how do the automatic meters know which leg you wish to check? i.e. in a electrical panel, or if I am wanting to check voltage on the 50 amp connections?

If the answer is the same as my existing Voltage Test Pen, I never gonna trust that as my answer if the electricity is on or off. I flip breaker with something on that circuit that I personally eyeball to cutoff and then I check with my voltmeter with my contact leads. If I can't get my contact leads on the wires, I am calling an Electrician

This is a good review and explains all the different things it can do and how.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s8OaVRPtPZY

[Mablunk]

Originally Posted by dkoldman

In this area they typically want $300 to come out. The way they make the math worth is not too relevant. I live very close to my mobile tech and I have always told him to call me when it was convenient for him to drop by. He never charges to come out and look at the work for me, he may for others though I am clear about what I want, I don't argue with him, and I pay good. He likes cash.

$200 a visit is pretty good especially if he swaps batteries, $400 might be on the high side.

Once you get past the batteries your next quest need to be how you keep your batteries over 12.4dc. Lots of tricks, but lets not through too much at you too soon. Get your new batteries, learn how to check AC or DC voltage with your new multimeter then you pass go for next conquest.

Dk
Sounds like a great plan. So far everything seems to be working fine. Unless something happens.
I have it plugged in to SP with the tank heaters on and the furnace.
I am thinking of going south to warm up a bit. And get away from these freezing temps. 18-25 degrees. It usually only lasts a week or so in Feb. it’s early this year. Southwest of here. So no mtns. I shouldn’t have to winterize anything till I go, correct? With the heaters on?

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Mablunk

Dk
Sounds like a great plan. So far everything seems to be working fine. Unless something happens.
I have it plugged in to SP with the tank heaters on and the furnace.
I am thinking of going south to warm up a bit. And get away from these freezing temps. 18-25 degrees. It usually only lasts a week or so in Feb. it’s early this year. Southwest of here. So no mtns. I shouldn’t have to winterize anything till I go, correct? With the heaters on?

If you have SP, tank heaters and furnace you should be fine.

But if you are saying temps is 18-25 for a week or so until you leave, I would want to know are you using the RV now? If now, I would drain the fresh water and hot water tanks, blow it out with air with none of that pink stuff.

My biggest fear would be the reliability of the power, in Texas; we frequently run out of power and subject to rolling blackouts. I have not done anything yet, but 30 degrees is as cold as we have seen thus far. I don't have any thing on and no shore power even though I have a Pedestal at the house. House is in Use mode and Inverter is OFF.

Because I do it myself, I normally fully winterize 3 times a year. I just wait on a hard freeze forecast or a trip where I don't know what the weather may bring, so I travel ready so I don't need top winterize on the road.

See this thread for info on freezing temperatures ( 25 and below)
https://www.thorforums.com/forums/f2...tml#post367349

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Bill Johnson

This is a good review and explains all the different things it can do and how.

[Bill Johnson]

Originally Posted by dkoldman

Thanks, I tried the non contact and the bar on the top lit up on 120 volt outlet, my 12 volt deep cycle battery and then I tried it on my USB-C to USB-C going to my phone and it lit up. This could come in handy for tracing wires in an RV