Solar 100w display flashing

[Rvman12]

What does it mean when your 100w solar display in the coach is flashing the letters "FUL" and showing 13.7v.

[Judge]

What make /model solar charger do you have installed in your coach?

If it is a Thor factory installed solar charger, it is probably a Go Power model. I don't recall am FUL code but there was a POL code that meant there was a polarity problem with the wiring.

However, given you are reading 13.7V and assuming you have lead acid batteries, it could mean the batteries are at a full charge and the charger is in a float mode.... depending on your solar controller.

[Rvman12]

Don't recall the name but it is Thor 2023 ACE 29g. 100w solar panel was standard with coach. Acid lead batteries did show 4 red lights as charged. We keep coach in storage yard so can't go take a look right now. Looked in Thor black bag and saw no manual on the solar controller.

Looks like the attached Go Power unit.

[Chateau_Nomad]

It's "FULL"... as in "FUL" with not enough room on the display for the second "L". That's the budget PWM controller Thor sticks in many motorhomes. If you're just trickle charging your house batteries, it's fine. If you ever upgrade to more solar panels, I'd suggest upgrading to an MPPT controller.

[Rvman12]

Thanks.

[Rvman12]

Thanks...is the flashing normal?...that is what drew my attention to the issue. Coach is 3 weeks old so trying to figure out all the nuances is a full time job!

[Chateau_Nomad]

Yes... perfectly normal.

[txc2936@yahoo.com]

There have been many posts on monitoring AC and DC voltages. The 100W solar charger actually does a good job of keeping the batteries topped off. Your correct, there isn't much in the THOR text.

After months of chasing voltages and what they should be reading. I purchased 2 handi devices. First is a DC voltmeter that plugs into your cigarette lighter outlet and a AC meter that can fit nicely in the AC outlet in your kitchen area (also works as a nice night light).

You will get accustomed to the voltages. 1) steady state battery with no charging going on , 2) DC voltage when you start your engine and are using the engine alternator and 3) When using either the generator or shore pwr, thru your AC-DC converter.

Setup different configurations on your RV and you will see the voltages, on the DC meter package, there is a chart showing DC battery voltage values.

For ex, the picture below is just after starting the engine. Approx. 14Vdc. The outer ring is green color, indicating normal engine alternator charging. The FORD instrument cluster also has a voltmeter under driver assist.

[Rvman12]

Other then trickle charging the house batteries what can you run off a 100 watt solar panel if anything?

[Pete'sMH]

Originally Posted by Rvman12

Other then trickle charging the house batteries what can you run off a 100 watt solar panel if anything?

Anything that is rated less than 100W. A radio or TV perhaps but that’s about it. Really, it’s there for keeping your house and chassis batteries topped up during storage or maybe charging your phone or other devices. I put a single 80W panel on my class A and it kept two house batteries and the chassis fully charged all winter and in between trips. Never a worry and perhaps the most useful upgrade I did.

[Bill Johnson]

Originally Posted by Rvman12

Other then trickle charging the house batteries what can you run off a 100 watt solar panel if anything?

It probably puts out about 6 amps per hour on the bright sunny part of the day. If you use an inverter while boondocking not a lot because an inverter uses extra power just to run. Mine doesn't have an inverter so my fridge will run on propane, the water heater will run on propane, furnace runs on propane and 12 volt for the fan and circuit board, my cpap will run on 12 volts. Your just trying to keep the batteries charged, when they reach 50 percent start the generator and charge them

[Chateau_Nomad]

Here's my 2¢ worth... Solar panels (currently) are VERY inefficient. The amount of wattage is only part of the equation. As Robert Plant famously stated, there are two paths you can go by:

1) Invest $$$... likely between $8k - $10k for an entire system including panels, lithium storage, etc. to run most everything in your coach. BUT... even THAT has it's limitations.

2) Invest $... less than $1k to run low energy devices and keep batteries topped off.

IMO, there really isn't an "in between" setup... you're either trying to accomplish one or the other. The issue is available amp hours in batteries... high amperage devices require LOTS of amp hour storage... and lithium batteries are still VERY expensive. The number of cheaper lead-acid batteries to accomplish #1 above would be insane... it's just NOT a feasible option.

However, #2 can be accomplished using either battery type. 200 - 300 amp hours of storage with lead-acid (AGM, flooded, etc.) won't break the bank or scale. A couple lithium batteries - while pricier - are more energy dense, and weigh much less. So you have options.