Solar ready

[taylorbob1]

Originally Posted by taylorbob1

After much analysis...my solar system will probably end up being:
- two Windy Nation 100amp flex mono panels
- fastened with white Eternabond tape
- an inexpensive Windy Nation 30amp PWM controller
With connectors and wire my budget will not exceed $350
It’ll be fine for my needs charging 2 deep cycle flooded batteries

On 2nd thought, and after way way too much deliberation...
I’m going with solid panels instead of flex panels
- 2 Renogy 100 watt panels
- 2 sets of Renogy Drill-Free mounts
- 2 tubes Sikaflex adhesive
Everything i’ve read says the flex panels won’t last & I only want to do this install once
It’ll take a bit more installation time for the solid panel mounts, but it’s the most reliable result

[richguess1946]

Originally Posted by jeffpiercemagic

Our new 2019 rw28 comes solar ready, does this mean there is a inverter built into the coach somewhere? If so wheres a good place to start looking?

Jeff

I have a 2018 27.2 ACE. I found the solar wires from the roof in the electrical area under the bed (orange/yellow.). I also installed a 1500 W PSW inverter in the storage cabinet adjacent to the batteries, and ran the output into this cabinet from below. I then hardwired it, with an A/B switch, to two circuits that control plugs and TV’s. (Cut the Romex after the circuit breakers,before the plugs etc.). I’d like to use the cables that are in there from the charger/converter to hook up the solar, after they run thru a solar controller. Looking for help on how to do that.

[mgunnin]

Yes I know that I am Solar ready. We have installed a panel and are very happy with having it in our system.

[tinker3030]

Originally Posted by jeffpiercemagic

Our new 2019 rw28 comes solar ready, does this mean there is a inverter built into the coach somewhere? If so wheres a good place to start looking?

Jeff

Mine is attached to the roof of a storage compartment on the drivers side just past the generator.

[taylorbob1]

Originally Posted by taylorbob1

On 2nd thought, and after way way too much deliberation...
I’m going with solid panels instead of flex panels
- 2 Renogy 100 watt panels
- 2 sets of Renogy Drill-Free mounts
- 2 tubes Sikaflex adhesive
Everything i’ve read says the flex panels won’t last & I only want to do this install once
It’ll take a bit more installation time for the solid panel mounts, but it’s the most reliable result

Ok
My parts came in, everything looks clean (I ordered everything from Amazon, & saved $$$ via the open/damaged box warehouse)
So, with connectors & 30amp controller...$310 + sales tax (on some, but not all items).

I’ll mount the two solid panels on the roof with the drill-free mounts
On-line, it is suggested that I “rough-up” the drill-free mount underside with a Dremel where the Sikaflex adheres to the roof.

I’ll wire the two panels in parallel, with branch connectors, and run the +/- lines down the refrigerator vent using 10 gauge stranded wire (20’ @ $.35/ft x 2) directly to the PWM 30amp controller located just inside at the entry door wall

Then a short run from the controller to the +/- battery terminals under the steps

Photos to be added shortly...

[gnach]

Originally Posted by richguess1946

I have a 2018 27.2 ACE. I found the solar wires from the roof in the electrical area under the bed (orange/yellow.). I also installed a 1500 W PSW inverter in the storage cabinet adjacent to the batteries, and ran the output into this cabinet from below. I then hardwired it, with an A/B switch, to two circuits that control plugs and TV’s. (Cut the Romex after the circuit breakers,before the plugs etc.). I’d like to use the cables that are in there from the charger/converter to hook up the solar, after they run thru a solar controller. Looking for help on how to do that.

I can't speak to how you're wiring your inverter. With my solar, I installed the solar prewire (orange) to a 30 amp breaker to the solar controller. The output is wired to another 30 breaker and then with #8 wire to the "live" side of the latching relay (charging solenoid). The grounds connect through to the coach ground block nearby. Use ring crimp connectors to make it simple. While you're in there, it would be smart to move the latching relay off the floor (WTH?) up higher where you can easily reach when it needs to be replaced. Think it thru, take your time and label everything.

[taylorbob1]

UPDate on my solar install...
I pre-wired #10 wire from the roof, down the cool side (rear) of the refrigerator vent, then down under the fridge, across the floor under the sink to the entry wall.

I also pre-wired a 2nd set of wires from the controller to the batteries. A 30 amp fuse is between the controller and the positive battery connection.

So right now I’ve got my controller connected to the battery box and I get my standard readings without solar charging.

And later this week, time permitting, I’ll Sikaflex the drill-less plastic mounts, screw in the two 100 watt panels, and make the final connections.

[taylorbob1]

Here's the final photos of my Solar install using the drill-less solar mounts and the Renogy solid panels...

[Jdb]

An you tell me where the converter is located (I have a 2018 24.1 and want to add some solar)

Dave

[taylorbob1]

“Converter” is located below the Fridge, has all the breakers and fuses (if that’s what you’re asking)

2018’s did not include a “Solar Controller”.
2018’s are “pre-wired” from the roof to the area under the refrigerator.
Remove the panel next to the “Converter” (below the Fridge), and look for the wires.

Personally, I have not seen photos of what the bare wires look like.

Let us know what you find.

[jeffpiercemagic]

Originally Posted by taylorbob1

Here's the final photos of my Solar install using the drill-less solar mounts and the Renogy solid panels...

Are you confident of those mounts? It seems that with the air that will be rushing underneath the panels, the mounts better be rock solid.

Jeff

[taylorbob1]

Originally Posted by jeffpiercemagic

Are you confident of those mounts? It seems that with the air that will be rushing underneath the panels, the mounts better be rock solid.

Jeff

Well...
They were installed 9 months & 6,000 miles ago.
When last checked they were rock solid.

That said, you can always plant a single screw in each foot if it makes you feel better.
But the point of the mounts is to eliminate any punctures in the roof.

Many on this Forum have screwed mounting plates into the roof and are fine with it.
Others have used flexible solar panels with Eternabond tape.

So, there are other options for you.

[AAL787]

Originally Posted by taylorbob1

Well...
They were installed 9 months & 6,000 miles ago.
When last checked they were rock solid.

That said, you can always plant a single screw in each foot if it makes you feel better.
But the point of the mounts is to eliminate any punctures in the roof.

Many on this Forum have screwed mounting plates into the roof and are fine with it.
Others have used flexible solar panels with Eternabond tape.

So, there are other options for you.

Looks like the panels likely don't catch much air with those mounting locations aft of the rig and behind the a/c and skylight as well as being aft on the rig.
My rig is pre-wired solar and the hard connection is just forward of the aft fan cover. I'm contemplating my approach to this. A correctly positioned panel with screwless mounts appears to have some merit.

[Edki45]

Originally Posted by TomaszL

I did buy a new control panel with the solar panels - Renogy 2 x 160W + the 30amp controller.
I am hesitant to install them, due to the warranty issues I have been having. The RV has been at the Camping Word twice already and still not fixed. Looks like I have a floor damage due to a leak, which will have to be fixed by Thor under the warranty.

Check your slide closed position. I have a 2020 Axis 25.6 and have been trying to get the factory to fix mine for 14 months from the day I bought it new. I have had it at 2 dealerships and the Thor Factory. The Thor Factory said there was nothing wrong with it. Camping World Alvarado says there was broken framing. Thor only authorized them 4 hours of adjustment. Made it worse. A Factory technician is coming to Camping World October 10th to help fix it. I hope it is not the one that told them how to fix it a couple of months ago. After they adjusted it it not only leaks at the bottom and Center but also now leaks at the front. The Centre bottom of mine is about 1 1/4" away from the bottom center and 3/8" the bottom front and 1/4" at the bottom rear. It appears to be too tight every place else. The seals at the bottom center doesn't come close to touching the wall.
I have had six Class A Motorhomes and this is absolutely the most horrible one I have ever had. I just started getting most of the long laundry list of things fixed by sending it to Thor Wakarusa Indiana. If you do that make sure you wait long to get a REAL MANAGER with authority to go over every detail. I couldn't wait days for that to happen.. The day I got it back from them it was out of warranty. And they said nothing was wrong with the slide. After about fifty or sixty emails and phone calls they are now working with me again. I found a lawyer that will work with you in case you need it.