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Old 05-18-2016, 06:07 AM   #1
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Chateau 28Z
State: Washington
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THOR #3419
Rust invasion!!

Hi:

This much rust on a 2016 unit? I was under the unit to install a black tank flush when I saw all these rust all over. It seems like Thor doesn't care if the welds fail or the frame rust through after couple of years. I know they are surface rust now, but what would they be in a year or two? specially for a unit in rainy/snowy areas? I got under there and using rust encapsulator I covered as much as was accessible, But what happens with not accessible areas? It is not really acceptable for a brand new unit.
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Old 05-18-2016, 11:37 AM   #2
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THOR #4103
Quote:
Originally Posted by HRDWRK View Post
Hi:

This much rust on a 2016 unit? I was under the unit to install a black tank flush when I saw all these rust all over. It seems like Thor doesn't care if the welds fail or the frame rust through after couple of years. I know they are surface rust now, but what would they be in a year or two? specially for a unit in rainy/snowy areas? I got under there and using rust encapsulator I covered as much as was accessible, But what happens with not accessible areas? It is not really acceptable for a brand new unit.
Oh no!!! And I'm only 1 mile from the ocean...salt in the air 24/7. I haven't purchased a unit yet but this is concerning!!
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Old 05-18-2016, 11:45 AM   #3
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THOR #4139
Rust

I am in Texas and have the same issue with my 2014, the rust is mostly where Thor has welded or added to the F53 Chassis. I have started spraying my metal underneath with WD40 or similar product to keep it from rusting any further. Maybe someday I will get some POR "Paint over Rust" and repaint the areas that are affected.
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Old 05-18-2016, 12:11 PM   #4
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I haven't noticed any appreciable rust on our 24.1--I'm sure there is some but so far we've been lucky.
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Old 05-18-2016, 01:43 PM   #5
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THOR #3419
The rust is every where that Thor extended the chassis and where they put the new cross members. Most of the new cross members and heat deflectors are thin metal sheets and it won't take long for rust to eat through them specially if they have not been protected right away.
I have had a very good experience with rust encapsulator fro Eastwood. I have been using it on my old rids for many years. I applied a heavy coat on welds and gussets. I may put a second coat today. My concern is many places on cross members that there is no access to them since they are covered by all the lines and wiring.
This is really disappointing. Poor workmanship.
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Old 05-18-2016, 01:50 PM   #6
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THOR #2142
Way back in the day (70's) I would get my car "undercoated" with some thick black paint/sealer goop. It looked cool, not sure if it also helped prevent rust or just hide it. Any ideas or knowledge of "undercoating" as a rust encapsulator?


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Old 05-18-2016, 02:46 PM   #7
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THOR #3510
Quote:
Originally Posted by DocMike View Post
Way back in the day (70's) I would get my car "undercoated" with some thick black paint/sealer goop. It looked cool, not sure if it also helped prevent rust or just hide it. Any ideas or knowledge of "undercoating" as a rust encapsulator?


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Doc...Ron is undercoating his new 6x10 enclosed trailer .. He began where he installed the chocks for his motorcycles...then decided to coat the whole underside since it is wood.
Obviously this is not what he will use to address the Axis..but has talked about using some of this stuff on the wood parts which are exposed. It is a roof coating..got it at Home Depot.
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Old 05-18-2016, 02:47 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by BrianA.C.E View Post
I am in Texas and have the same issue with my 2014, the rust is mostly where Thor has welded or added to the F53 Chassis. I have started spraying my metal underneath with WD40 or similar product to keep it from rusting any further. Maybe someday I will get some POR "Paint over Rust" and repaint the areas that are affected.
Don't use WD40, it actually attracts water. There are some excellent aircraft rust inhibitors out there that I have used on my boats that work much better than WD40. For a more permanent fix, Ospho followed by Rustoleum works the best. I haven't tried POR, that may work as well.
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Old 05-18-2016, 03:09 PM   #9
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Of course you could use the rest of that can of Flex Seal (you know the one used to seal up the brake light recesses) (You'd want to wire brush/file off the rust first though.)

Then you could even shoot at your camper with a cannon and it wouldn't...oh right...
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Old 05-18-2016, 06:14 PM   #10
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THOR #3419
I used wire brush to clean up the area and then I put two coats of the rust encapsulater on it. I attached some pictures. Now, I have noticed that the ground connection are all oxidized! you can see in one of the picture. Next step is, after the rust encapsulator dries up, to get the wires cleaned up and make clean connection and apply protectant on the connections.
I am going to write Thor and let them know about their poor quality workmanship because it doesn't matter now who (yourself or a shop) does the job, nobody can get into all areas under the living area and above the frame rails. I used spray and applied some blindly everywhere that I could see a pocket of steel.
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Old 05-18-2016, 10:39 PM   #11
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I did a under coat myself. But I think these rigs leave the factory and driving to the final destination they wait until it rains. If Thor did go the step further and add a little bit more quality, that will cut into their profit.
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Old 05-19-2016, 05:24 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by sikoriko View Post
I did a under coat myself. But I think these rigs leave the factory and driving to the final destination they wait until it rains. If Thor did go the step further and add a little bit more quality, that will cut into their profit.
It is interesting that how many different ways you can look at a business and its profit. I am actually a business owner myself and this is how I look at Thor business: Option 1: $50 extra cost for under coating and related labor (when the pieces are not assembled, spray painting is just the matter of minutes) leads to better quality product, leads to happy customer and their word of mouth which leads to higher sale for Thor which leads to more profit. Option 2: Saving $50 on each coach, offering a poor quality unit, losing the future customer which leads to very bad reviews which leads to losing the business to the competition which leads to lower sale number which means less profit.
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Old 05-19-2016, 09:56 AM   #13
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My former class C was a Forest River, and I had rust all over the undercarriage. I don't seem to have the problem now with my Thor. Not sure why some units are more prone to rusting, as I do live I Florida, and there's plenty of salt air!! I sprayed a rust inhibitor on my C and that helped the control of rust. I agree that the extra $50 would be a wise business move to insure customer satisfaction.
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Old 05-20-2016, 12:10 AM   #14
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Rust may be associated with the weather conditions when it was delivered... especially with salt coated roads from Indiana.
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Old 05-20-2016, 01:19 AM   #15
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THOR #3419
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Originally Posted by streamcamper View Post
Rust may be associated with the weather conditions when it was delivered... especially with salt coated roads from Indiana.
I disagree respectfully. With today's technology rust, on a newer unit like this, is only associated with poor and low quality workmanship. Simple coat of chassis paint or better than that a good rust inhibitor, would prevent the rust even with salty roads for many years, not forever. Specially, if these units are built in Indiana with their winter and salty road condition, one would assume that they are more anal about rust prevention rather than doing such a lousy job. The frame sections whihc came from Ford, they are all fine. The problem starts when the chassis been cut and the new pieces of metals have been welded.
I have read few post that blame the rust on colder climate, weather locations and salty road but let me ask you this, even if you are living on dry state such as CA or NV, don't you buy a motor home to travel the country during any giving climate? These are not luxury sport cars that you take them out only during some weekends when the sun is shinny and the weather is warm. These units are suppose to be on the road during different weather conditions. Nobody says they should last forever, but they should last for 10 years or more before you see rust making a whole in the chassis!
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Old 05-20-2016, 01:56 AM   #16
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THOR #1469
HRDWRK,

How long have you had the coach and how many miles driven?

Aside from the rust that undercarriage looks extremely clean.
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Old 05-20-2016, 02:15 AM   #17
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THOR #3419
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Originally Posted by dstankov View Post
HRDWRK,

How long have you had the coach and how many miles driven?

Aside from the rust that undercarriage looks extremely clean.
only 3300 miles on its. 300 miles was when took delivery of it from out or town dealer and about another 300 miles for few trips we made to another local dealer for warranty repairs. Basically we have not driven it much!
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Old 05-20-2016, 06:33 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by Oneilkeys View Post
Don't use WD40, it actually attracts water. There are some excellent aircraft rust inhibitors out there that I have used on my boats that work much better than WD40. For a more permanent fix, Ospho followed by Rustoleum works the best. I haven't tried POR, that may work as well.

WHAT DOES WD-40® STAND FOR?
WD-40® literally stands for Water Displacement, 40th formula. That's the name straight out of the lab book used by the chemist who developed the product back in 1953. The chemist, Norm Larsen, was attempting to concoct a formula to prevent corrosion—a task which is done by displacing water. Norm's persistence paid off when he perfected the formula on his 40th try. Please see Our History for more information.
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Old 05-20-2016, 06:54 AM   #19
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THOR #1765
After it drys, WD-40 will attract moisture which will result in rust. It does displace water and is great to clean off rust but it is not a good long term lubricant. While it does act as a corridor inhibitor as long as it is wet, when it drys it leaves a varnish that actually attracts water and causes rust. Since WD-40'was originally used on Atlas missiles as a rust inhibitor, it got the reputation of being a good long term corrosion inhibitor. But the Atlas missiles were in a silo in a very controlled environment with low humidity.

WD-40 does make a corrosion inhibitor.
WD-40® SPECIALIST® LONG-TERM CORROSION INHIBITOR protects metal parts, blocking rust and corrosion for up to one year outdoors and two years indoors. Our anti-rust spray is ideal for both preventative maintenance and use in extreme environments such as high humidity.
I have never used it, but it gets high marks. It is not your regular WD-40.

I use Boeshield T-9 Superior aircraft corrosion protection developed by the Boeing Company.

Unlike other Corrosion Inhibitors & Lubricants, Boeshield T-9 was developed by "The Boeing Companies Material Technology Laboratories" in order to meet the stringent applications required in the Aerospace Industry. Boeshield T-9 is effective because of its excellent Water Displacement, Penetration & Protective Film Development.

You might use WD-40 on a tank, but you would never use it on an airplane. In the USN it is illegal to use it on an airplane.

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Old 05-26-2016, 11:26 AM   #20
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Model: 2017 Thor Vegas 25.2
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THOR #4205
Well after reading this thread I was worried at what I would find after delivery of our new rig last Saturday. I'm happy to report that Thor must have been listening. I crawled all under the 2017 and everything is painted black. Every weld, brace, etc is painted. So far I have been highly impressed with the build quality of this coach. The only rub I have.......Thor still is using the crummy gaskets for the rear tail lights. I unscrewed the lens just a bit and sure enough a little bit of water came out.

Front end alignment is scheduled for tomorrow and then time to find a campsite some where after Memorial Day weekend!
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