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Old 05-13-2021, 04:10 AM   #1
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Model: Forest River 2400R MBS
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THOR #13744
Switching to an ACE 30.3

We just sold our 2019 Four Winds 24BL Sprinter RV (lasted 20 minutes on FB market place) and we are now in the process of buying a barely/gently used 2020 ACE 30.3.

The RV comes solar prepped from the factory. I did see the plug in connection for the panel on the roof but didn't see a controller on the inside (the 2020 brochure says it has a controller). My 24 BL came also prepped but did have the controller.

Am I just overlooking something or doesn't it have the controller? If it doesn't have a controller, does anybody know where it is supposed to be or where the wiring is? All I want to do is to mount a 100 watt panel and a TRIK-L-CHARGER because that setup kept my three batteries in my 24BL at a 100% throughout winter storage.

I am sure I will miss getting 13 MPGs but we couldn't deal anymore with the 640 lbs cargo capacity. Now we will have over 2000 lbs capacity (I am sure my wife finds a way to get to that point). Another thing we will have is a bed we can use with the slide retracted, bedroom doors and a 4P position for me.

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Old 05-13-2021, 11:40 PM   #2
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Well congratulations on the quick sale of your old rig. Must be a huge load off your mind. Your proposed panel and Trik-L-Start is exactly what I use to keep my 3 batteries fully charged. It’s a great, foolproof system. I don’t have an A.C.E. But there is no reason for the controller to be inside the coach. Mine is in one of the basement compartments. It does not require any input or attention - although the display is interesting sometimes. If no one gives you a clear answer I’d look down there. And if the wires are on the roof you’ll likely need to find the other ends anyway so that’s probably where it’ll be. Good luck with the new rig.
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Old 05-14-2021, 12:53 AM   #3
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You should be able to go the Thor website and fill out the owners resource with your VIN and get the schematics for your coach.
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Old 05-14-2021, 01:32 AM   #4
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Congratulations
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Old 05-14-2021, 02:25 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by Dafoot2 View Post
You should be able to go the Thor website and fill out the owners resource with your VIN and get the schematics for your coach.
I did that last night. The 2020 brochure clearly states solar prep w/controller. Oddly there was no manual for a controller available under my VIN and the schematics don't show anything, not even the panel plug-in connection that is visible on the roof.

I emailed Thor today and are waiting for a response. They were pretty good in the past when I had questions about my FW 24BL. If I have to I will buy a GoPower 10 amp controller, the same model that came standard in my 24BL. I am sure there are more advanced options but it was idiot proof and I know it worked.
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Old 05-23-2021, 02:30 AM   #6
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Picked up our ACE today

I finally picked up the ACE today. Drove my Ford Focus, hooked it up and drove home 110 miles. The ACE only has 6000 miles and the original owner had Roadmaster sway bars and the spring-loaded steering stabilizer installed after his first long trip.

All I can say that the ACE driving/handling characteristic were truly impressive compared to my Class C and a previous Winnie Class A (Workhorse chassis with some improvements). I was driving 65 mph, the ride was stable, no wallowing or excessive leaning and best of all big trucks passing have almost zero impact.

I do have to check the adjustment of the stabilizer and make sure it is centered because if you let the steering wheel go there is a very slight drift to the left.

I have read here that many complain about engine noise and heat coming from the doghouse. IMO the noise level is low except when the transmission downshifted into 3rd gear on a steep and long grade, but still not bad. The cover gets a little warm but nothing excessive.

Tomorrow we do a good clean up and disinfection and start setting up. I also have to install two Heng's Vortex 2 fans to replace the small 5 inch fans, roof vent covers, figure out the solar system parts I need and some other odds and ends.

We are happy campers!
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Old 05-23-2021, 03:17 AM   #7
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Hi best stuff for dog house ..it is cool and placed under passenger computer table
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Old 05-23-2021, 04:15 AM   #8
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Actually, as of right now I don't see a need for any additional insulation. Maybe since the ACE has only 6000 miles on it the OEM foam didn't break down yet.
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Old 05-24-2021, 02:58 AM   #9
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Congrats. I too have the roadmaster steering stabilizer and it does wonders.
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Old 05-31-2021, 04:10 AM   #10
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Yesterday I installed the two Vortex II fans and MaxxAir vent covers, what an improvement. I also sanitized the fresh water system and cleaned the water heater with vinegar as outlined in the manual.....now I have odorless hot water. Wednesday I should get my solar kit, I opted for a 100 watt kit from Renogy. Thursday I get the front side windows tinted. Slowly getting there.

Also properly installed the stering stabilizer, no more slight pull to the left. While under there I noticed that the front sway bar is OEM and the links are in the original position. I read a lot about the CHF but looking at videos it puts the sway bar in a position where there is a lot of stress on the connecting links. My RV handles really well and I am contemplating to take the sway bar off and drill another set of holes right in between the existing OEM holes for a "50% CHF" which wouldn't put the connecting links into that extreme angle. I am pretty sure they are designed to be at almost 90 degrees. On the other hand, why did Ford put two sets of holes on the sway bar?
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Old 05-31-2021, 10:40 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by 71_340 View Post
Yesterday I installed the two Vortex II fans and MaxxAir vent covers, what an improvement. I also sanitized the fresh water system and cleaned the water heater with vinegar as outlined in the manual.....now I have odorless hot water. Wednesday I should get my solar kit, I opted for a 100 watt kit from Renogy. Thursday I get the front side windows tinted. Slowly getting there.

Also properly installed the stering stabilizer, no more slight pull to the left. While under there I noticed that the front sway bar is OEM and the links are in the original position. I read a lot about the CHF but looking at videos it puts the sway bar in a position where there is a lot of stress on the connecting links. My RV handles really well and I am contemplating to take the sway bar off and drill another set of holes right in between the existing OEM holes for a "50% CHF" which wouldn't put the connecting links into that extreme angle. I am pretty sure they are designed to be at almost 90 degrees. On the other hand, why did Ford put two sets of holes on the sway bar?
Doesn’t your 2020 have the new V8 engine? If so, I read on this forum that you have heavier duty OEM sway bars than prior years. If you’re ok with handling I’d leave it alone.
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Old 05-31-2021, 12:12 PM   #12
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No, 2020s have the 2019 F53 chassis with the V10 engine.
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Old 06-09-2021, 02:50 AM   #13
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Making Progress

I just got done installing my Renogy solar kit and TRIK-L-Charger. Took me a while to run all the wires because the ones Thor installed as part of the solar-prep end under the bed and were of no use to me.

I ran all new ones so I could install the controller right where you enter the RV and to keep the wires to the batteries as short as possible (works better that way per Renogy). Put the TRIK-L-CHARGER in the same area as well as the BT module which lets me monitor the system on my phone (nice gimmick).

Everything works as it should and I never have to worry about discharged batteries anymore.

Next up is to install a front Roadmaster sway bar which should arrive sometime next week.
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Old 06-09-2021, 03:17 AM   #14
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Good job we are proud of you
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Old 07-12-2021, 01:06 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by 71_340 View Post
I just got done installing my Renogy solar kit and TRIK-L-Charger. Took me a while to run all the wires because the ones Thor installed as part of the solar-prep end under the bed and were of no use to me.

I ran all new ones so I could install the controller right where you enter the RV and to keep the wires to the batteries as short as possible (works better that way per Renogy). Put the TRIK-L-CHARGER in the same area as well as the BT module which lets me monitor the system on my phone (nice gimmick).

Everything works as it should and I never have to worry about discharged batteries anymore.

Next up is to install a front Roadmaster sway bar which should arrive sometime next week.
My ace 33.1 solar wires were up front inside the front door just above the mud room. I reached inside beneath the cup holder and pulled out the wires. Thor forgot to install the solar controller so they sent me one. I cut the hole and connected the wires. It kept my batteries charged all winter
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Old 07-12-2021, 02:36 AM   #16
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I doubt you will be able to drill holes in the front anti-sway bar. It's spring steel and very hard. Just do the CHF, you will be alright.
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Old 07-12-2021, 03:08 AM   #17
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I have a Go Power GP-PWM-10-SQ which I think is standard Thor pre-install for solar packages.

Since I upgraded mine to a 40amp, I have this one laying here collecting dust - anyone need one? DIRT cheap!!

P.S. My coach is classed as a 2020 model year. However, everything on the chassis is labeled/stamped as 2019 year of manufacture. A little sleuthing revealed that Ford skipped a year... There is no such animal as a 2020. Those are technically 2021... and have the new 7.3 liter V-8. Ford gives some B.S. reason about residual value... but I'm betting it was to buy time for the drive train switchover.
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Old 07-12-2021, 03:48 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chateau_Nomad View Post
I have a Go Power GP-PWM-10-SQ which I think is standard Thor pre-install for solar packages.

Since I upgraded mine to a 40amp, I have this one laying here collecting dust - anyone need one? DIRT cheap!!

P.S. My coach is classed as a 2020 model year. However, everything on the chassis is labeled/stamped as 2019 year of manufacture. A little sleuthing revealed that Ford skipped a year... There is no such animal as a 2020. Those are technically 2021... and have the new 7.3 liter V-8. Ford gives some B.S. reason about residual value... but I'm betting it was to buy time for the drive train switchover.
That's the one I have. Thor told me I could probably have two solar panels with that controller because a 100 watt panel doesn't put out a full 100 watts
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Old 07-12-2021, 07:11 PM   #19
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My rv tech recommended 180 watt..leave on forget about it
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