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Old 07-11-2020, 11:40 PM   #1
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A/C not handling heat

I bought a new 2020 Thor FE27 yesterday and we have been getting it “trip ready” all day today.

The temperature outside today was around 103. The RV air conditioner could not keep up. So, I started up the engine and had the dash air conditioner going along with the 13,500 unit that came standard. I could not get the temperature under 90°. I’ve never owned an RV, is this normal? All blinds were down.

Please help me know if this is something that the dealer needs to fix.

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Old 07-11-2020, 11:46 PM   #2
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Welcome to our virtual Campsite!
.There's nothing to fix: the a/c units were doing their best...
But 103 degrees?
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Old 07-12-2020, 12:00 AM   #3
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Mine keeps up in that heat with the dash air on
But
Go ahead and budget for the second ac and put it on a seperate 20amp line if your coach is currently 30 amp.
It's easy, it's way under $1,000 and it adds great comfort.

Go on youtube and look at some vids about checking the intake and return ff the ac you have. If a cardboard baffle is misaligned by as little as an inch, it'll churn air and lose a lot of effeciency.

Your rv is a kit.
They have lended you an ac system to use u til you get one that fits your needs.
This thought pattern keeps me unangry.
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Old 07-12-2020, 12:01 AM   #4
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RVs are generally not well insulated for several reasons. More insulation takes space (which reduces livable space) and it costs more money.

Also, there is the issue of poor workmanship and quality control on the part of the manufacturers. I'm in the process of taking care of poorly affixed and missing insulation in our front cap behind the cabinets and TV. It's annoying that it wasn't done correctly at the factory, but on the other hand I'm learning more about what's behind the facade in our rig, which will likely come in handy when something inevitably breaks.
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Old 07-12-2020, 12:08 AM   #5
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So, you pay $80k and it can’t keep it cool during the summer? That doesn’t seem right...
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Old 07-12-2020, 12:13 AM   #6
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I asked the dealer about this and they said it couldn’t be done. So, you just run and extension cord off of the roof or is it a window unit?
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Old 07-12-2020, 12:17 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaydiddy View Post
So, you pay $80k and it can’t keep it cool during the summer? That doesn’t seem right...
People pay twice that much and still get RVs that can't stay cool.
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Old 07-12-2020, 12:19 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaydiddy View Post
So, you pay $80k and it can’t keep it cool during the summer? That doesn’t seem right...
You could have paid $200,000 and not kept it cool.

The punchline is:
Would you have paid $5,000 for a winter insulation upgrade(there is such a thing in the rv world) and an additional ac unit?
You still can.

Someone who lives in Maine and would never have need for a second ac appreciates that an added ac unit wasn't thrust upon them in the window sticker.

I will be working the backhoe this evening after 7pm.
Know why?
Because it's 104° here right now. I'm capable of working in the heat, I just have priorities and not working the heat is up there.
Pack up after dark when it cools down.
Precool the rv before you leave. It'll keep up just fine once it's precooled and you're not in and out of the door.

You're frustrated and maybe a little buyers remorseful.
It's a hobby, not a car.
You're 1,000 lessons and $10,000 away from happy with your rv.
We all are/we're.
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Old 07-12-2020, 12:26 AM   #9
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Thanks for the insight everyone.

Yeah I guess my expectations and reality don’t line up.
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Old 07-12-2020, 12:35 AM   #10
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There is a good thread about some things you can do to help improve the performance of the A/C unit(s) on RV's. You might want to read this thread and try a few of the tricks as they can help.

https://www.thorforums.com/forums/f2...ice-12980.html

Everyone is correct... the A/C units all the manufacturers use are marginal at best and insulation is minimal... its the nature of the beast. I have a 2020 Magnitude SV34 and it has two A/C units. On days in the 90's I can keep it in the 70's but they are going to be running non-stop.

Do yourself a favor and get yourself a set of WeatherTech Sun Shades. They are an exact fit for your windshield and cab windows and your will be surprised at how much they eliminate the heat in the cab coming from the sun through the windows. I have bought them for every coach and they make a big difference.

https://www.weathertech.com/sunshade/

Your dealer may be telling you it is not possible to add a second A/C unit but that is not necessarily the case. A good shop that specializes in RV work could do it. You would need to cut a hole in the ceiling and run some wiring. Your coach is fairly small so you could go with a smaller unit than the one you have now. It could be installed over your bed.
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Old 07-12-2020, 03:41 AM   #11
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Judge,

Really helpful. Thanks for the links.
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Old 07-12-2020, 12:36 PM   #12
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Arrow

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaydiddy View Post
So, you pay $80k and it can’t keep it cool during the summer? That doesn’t seem right...
for most of us, parking in direct sun in over 100degree temps, and with Humidity, I'm sure, would not be 'easy' to cool no matter how many a/c units you might have on the roof - even a Prevost with 6 might still complain, depending on the situation...

smaller RVs typically work fine with a single roof air conditioner.
larger RVs typically come with two.
those RVs that are 'border line' between the two sizes may only have one, but may 'seem' to need two to some owners... those in the north might not care so much.
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Old 07-12-2020, 01:01 PM   #13
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I believe that Thor even offers an option to set some of their single a/c equipped units with a 2nd a/c, and an upgraded power supply system.
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Old 07-12-2020, 03:22 PM   #14
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I made the mistake of keeping the Maxxair attic fan running with the vent open under the assumption that it was allowing only the heat to escape. The coach was not able to stay cool because a lot of the conditioned air was leaving as well. Buttoned it up, keeping the door closed, shades in the big front windows, curtains down and we are comfortable in Florida in July!
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Old 07-12-2020, 04:17 PM   #15
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If you think about it, the RV is sitting in the sun all day.You're trying to cool the entire inside of this literal hot-box while the exterior is still baking in the sun. The heat is coming at it from six sides. Windows are not insulated. Our RV was really good at cooling down when the temps topped out at about 90 with lower humidity. It's just physics. Insulation on an RV appears to be for the ideal conditions. Summer here in Florida is not the ideal condition. The tradeoff is less insulation, lower weight and more room. Not to mention a huge front windshield. So, In would agree with the general opinion, the AC is not broken, it's just trying to stay above water.
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Old 07-12-2020, 04:21 PM   #16
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Search the forum for “ Delta T”. Also, I’ll wager that coach has a factory option for a 15k AC unit and usually those options are offered for a reason.

At best you are looking for 20 degrees cooler air coming out than the air going into the cold air return. For RVs 15 degrees is more realistic. Again, Delta T.

Also, FE = Camping World. Ask someone that can spell RV AC instead of Camping World.
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Old 07-12-2020, 05:11 PM   #17
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Congrats on the new coach. You will find that there are many systems that are subpar. Do not loose heart. Tackle one at a time and study what others have done. We just passed the 5-year mark on our 27K and am still making changes and in some cases doing now what I should have before. That said, start by getting insulation for your windows. I used the following from Amazon and have both side windows, windshield, rear and dinette windows all insulated when we are parked. Last year I had 3M window tint installed on the windshield and side windows.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You can also insulate the Vents with this from Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Most RV supply stores carry both of these.
Good luck and safe travels.
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Old 07-12-2020, 06:18 PM   #18
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A Freedom Elite 27 foot motorhome (if unit below) is way too large for a single 13,500 BTU/hr A/C. The FE website doesn’t list a 15,000 BTU/hr option, but even if it was available, the extra 11% capacity would be a drop in the bucket compared to what’s needed in summer in much of Texas or along the Gulf Coast.

My Class C was 24-ft instead of 29-ft (28’-11” to be exact), was much narrower, lower, and didn’t have a full wall slide, and even then a 13,500 BTU/hr A/C was inadequate much of June, July, August, and September if we stayed in the south.

Before I’d invest time on other upgrades, I’d look at installing a second air conditioner first because it’s highly likely that you’re going to need it anyway.

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Old 07-12-2020, 06:24 PM   #19
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P.S. — I’d highly recommend parking with driver (slide) side to north when possible. With 5 windows on slide side of RV, you should really avoid that side facing south, or even west in evening. The awning on passenger side will handle solar heat load more effectively than the driver side with long slide and numerous windows.
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Old 07-12-2020, 07:11 PM   #20
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Suggestions to help A/C

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaydiddy View Post
I bought a new 2020 Thor FE27 yesterday and we have been getting it “trip ready” all day today.

The temperature outside today was around 103. The RV air conditioner could not keep up. So, I started up the engine and had the dash air conditioner going along with the 13,500 unit that came standard. I could not get the temperature under 90°. I’ve never owned an RV, is this normal? All blinds were down.

Please help me know if this is something that the dealer needs to fix.
If you have an infrared heat gun, check the difference between the A/C inlet at the ceiling and the ducts out. If you have a 20 degree drop, that is about all you can expect. I just checked mine and it is 21 degrees. I have a Thor Vegas with a 15000 btu Coleman.

As others have said, this is a problem with all RV's. My friend has a Tiffin with two air conditioners and has similar issues at 100 degrees plus. I once owned a houseboat-same issues. Some of the problem is lack of insulation, but a lot is due to the roof-mounted A/C and glass.

Using the same heat gun, shoot temps around the RV to see where it is the warmest. Today, it is 96 in Florida and the sun is shining directly on the roof and windshield. The inside ceiling is 81, but the temp of the roll down windshield shade is 95-even with outside window shades installed!! A lot of heat comes into the cab through the windshield and side windows. Inside of RV is high 70's. Partly because I put on the outside shades a little late in the day.

Other suggestions:

-Install inside and/or outside window shades in the cab area where you need them.
-Insulate the engine doghouse on the underside (lots on this forum about this) to keep engine heat out of the cab area during and after driving. The hotter the doghouse, the more heat comes in the cab area. You'll be amazed how little insulation you have in this area-practically none on my Vegas.
-As noted in another post, add vent insulators wherever appropriate.
-On hot days, start the generator and run the coach air conditioning while you are driving. The coach and contents will be cooler when you arrive.
-When you camp, it makes a big difference if you can have the cab facing North or East-better yet if you have shade.
--Cool down the coach as much as you can in the morning when it is cooler outside and the sun is lower.

I hope all of this helps.
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