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Old 01-04-2019, 02:30 AM   #1
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Freedom Elite
State: Florida
Posts: 39
THOR #14082
Thor Freedom Elite, 2018, 6.8L V10, 30amp service

I have read and re-read this several times and I hope it makes sense:
I have been looking for my Battery Isolator Manager and got in touch with Thor Tech group. They told me I did not have a BMI as described in the manual, they said I had a relay identified as an isolator relay. I told them that I saw it and it accompanied a solenoid. It is in the engine compartment, driver’s side, and underneath the overflow radiator antifreeze holding tank. I carefully suspended the tank and blindly photographed the two devices and retrieved part numbers and manufacturers and some sketchy wiring. So, my present results are as follows: leading from the chassis battery red lead from the positive battery post goes to the large post of the DC contactor solenoid (Trambetta Solenoids – DC Contactor #684-1251-012 to be abbreviated herein as “TS-DC”), the red lead from the positive battery post from the home battery goes to the other large post on the TS-DC; the other two wires (one black and one yellow) go to the other two smaller posts on the TS-DC and a green ground wire connects to the body of the chassis. It is hard to tell what and if any other wires are mixed into the bunch due to space limitations. The TS-DC is accompanied on the further front of the engine compartment some odd 3 inches or so to a Isolator Relay Delay (Intellitec Isolator Relay #00-00629-120 to be abbreviated herein to “IIR”). The relay comes with a red wire, and blue wire, and a black wire and they appear to connect with the TS-DC also). Additionally, on both sides of the TS-DC are a 7.5Amp ATC fuse with holder. Finally, access to the location will require a two or three step ladder as well as the removal of the radiator overflow antifreeze holding tank, a 5/16” socket and other tools, especially some tape and a pen to identify the wires prior to removal and for easy reinstallation. Further, the devices are sold on Amazon; the TS-DC is $31.57, the IIR is $34.50. This is my first look directly at the devices for my Thor and yours maybe different. I will not likely dig in any deeper at this time since it is not broken but now I know another location to go look and check for some battery charging and starting issues if and when they occur. I hope this helps if one finds they were in need of this information.
Please let me know if you find anything that I have identified that is inaccurate.
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Old 01-04-2019, 11:22 AM   #2
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It would be a better read if you considered paragraphs rather than one long rambling post. I started to read it but kept getting lost. I don't understand what you are looking to do or why for that matter.
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Old 01-04-2019, 12:13 PM   #3
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Brand: Still Looking
Model: Tiffin Wayfarer 24 BW
State: New York
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THOR #8860
Is this a search for enlightenment, or the quest for a solution to a problem?
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Old 01-04-2019, 12:46 PM   #4
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Model: 2013 ACE 30.1
State: Alberta
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THOR #2631
A picture (sometimes) is worth a thousand words. Attached is a basic Intellitec battery charge controller system schematic. It might help you visualize similarities in your system.
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Old 01-04-2019, 12:52 PM   #5
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GREAT picture!

http://www.thorforums.com/forums/att...1&d=1546609935
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Old 01-04-2019, 01:44 PM   #6
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Model: Palazzo 33.3 34'bunkhouse
State: Alabama
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THOR #4735
what you've uncovered is exactly what I recently uncovered in my diesel pusher - and while our coaches may be somewhat different, the overall system for bi-directional connection/charging of batteries is probably the same.

I have a B.I.R.D., the bi-directional relay device, that controls the reading of the Voltage of each set of battery banks, and provides the TRIGGER to the 12v D.C. Continuous Coil, which is the 'link' between the two battery banks.
My 12v D.C. coil is a WhiteRodgers brand, but may only be different due to the size of the battery banks(Chassis = 2 12v, and House = 4 6v), but it essentially provides the same current connection between the two banks once the B.I.R.D. triggers it to 'connect', allowing 12v charging to flow to the 'other' bank.
When the Alternator is charging the Chassis bank, the BIRD waits until the Chassis batteries are at a certain Voltage level, then sends the signal to the 12v D.C. coil to 'connect' to the House bank.
When on Shore Power, or using the Generator, the opposite occurs - the BIRD waits until the HOUSE batteries are at a certain level before triggering the coil to connect the Chassis bank.

I also have an additional 'connection' coil, a Trombetta 12v Continuous D.C. coil, between the House and Chassis banks - controlled by the 'AUX' dash switch, or otherwise called a 'Battery Boost', which allows you to MANUALLY tie the two banks together, temporarily. If the house bank is low, it will give you the ability to add the Chassis bank to start the Generator, and vice versa if your Chassis bank is low and you need to start the engine, etc.
Rather than a BIRD automated device trigger, it uses a simple dash switch, telling the 12v D.C. coil to 'connect' while you are holding down the switch.


nice to know

I found all this due to my Inverter having a new issue of 'cutting off' for no known reason. I first thought that one of these 12v COILS was going bad, but after finding these and researching the system, realized that they are not part of the Inverter's 12v power source.
I then thought that it also might be the 12v Disconnect, which is a 'RV CUSTOM PRODUCTS' device, and uses the door-side switch... but it was also o.k.

Come to find out, after all the searching, it was actually one of the House batteries with two 'low' cells(specific gravity readings were very, very low).
The VOLTAGE would read fine on the battery bank, but once a substantial draw was called for from the Inverter, such as the Fridge compressor or microwave, the battery bank could not immediately give it the full 12v power it required, and the Magnum Inverter would then 'shut off'.
After removed the suspect battery, draining it, filling it with distilled water and giving it several good overnight full charging, and then filling it will new battery acid(auto parts store), and a few more overnights of full charging, it was performing fine again.

: ) and yes, sometimes these devices are mounted in places that are difficult to get to, but the factories try to find a 'close' place to mount them near the batteries since the wiring needs to be rather short.
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Old 01-04-2019, 04:39 PM   #7
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THOR #14082
My son said the same thing. This was my first big post and I was worried I would run out of spaces. I wanted to include pics but I will have to do that later.
I lost forum access this morning otherwise I would have emailed earlier.
My son read and changed the message on my Word document and it flowed much better, took less space, and just sounded better. I will focus on doing better next time. Thank you.
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Old 01-04-2019, 04:48 PM   #8
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Well, yes and no for the search for enlightenment. I am a relatively new RV owner and am so anal that I want and need to know how everything works. The electrical systems are a massive and complicated but immensely important item I want and need to understand. Really, I just need to know what the idividual items do not their inner workings. The Thor manual for my Class C MC stated much about the BIM (Battery Isolation Manager) and showed a picture and stated that it was at the step where the coach battery is stored. So I have spent a few months and never could find it. Yes, I have had battery charging issues (learning lessons shall we say). So, I decided that this was my most important task to tackle and master. I am still learning. Actually, I am learning so much from you guys speaking back to me about this matter. Every RV seems a bit different but really the same. I imagine there are some systems that are the BEST and some that are OK and some imbetween. Thank you for your discussions regarding this. I imagine that lots of new RVers are asking the same questions.
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Old 01-04-2019, 04:55 PM   #9
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Freedom Elite
State: Florida
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THOR #14082
Javelin: That is a great schematic. The electrical schematics I recieved for my coach were really terribly basic and largely incorrectly drawn. For example, stating that I have a Manual Rotary Disconnect which I do not. I have the rocker arm switch at the door. Not a big deal but I have been searching the rotary switch for a while. I understand though, the Thor factory has a few manufacturing sites in the same area. The Class A are built accross the street from the Class C. So the designers and technicians meet for lunch and talk about what each RV has for its electrical service. That knowledge gets spread between the two and so no coach is always the same but does the same thing.
Thank you for the schematic. I will study it quite a bit.
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Old 01-04-2019, 05:00 PM   #10
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THOR #14082
Turnerfam: I like what you say!!! It also appears that you have done your investigations too. How it works. Why it works. How to fix it without calling anyone to begin replacing parts, arbitrarily, hoping it works. This is important. I do not like being at the mercy of someone that is working on "my baby" that knows less than I do about her. Thank you for your feedback!
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Old 01-04-2019, 05:04 PM   #11
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Bob Denman: I love that picuture post. I miss him on TV - Military Channel. We got rid of TV, cable, Netfix, rented movies, etc over 10 years ago. Cost too much and most of all the good stuff is free on the internet nowdays. But I can still here him growling "THAT IS OUTSTANDING". Thank you for the entertainment.
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Old 01-04-2019, 06:10 PM   #12
I Think We're Lost!
 
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State: New York
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THOR #8860
Thanks!
I had the privilege of meeting him at the NRA convention back in 2010. At that time: he had a grip like a vise...
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Old 01-04-2019, 06:14 PM   #13
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I do not doubt that one solitary ounce.
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Old 01-04-2019, 06:58 PM   #14
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State: Illinois
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THOR #10965
Sounds right. I just replaced all that last year. Last thing I found was that one of the fuses had blown (I didn't notice the fuses until I had replaced everything they were farther into the engine compartment).
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Old 01-04-2019, 08:00 PM   #15
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THOR #14082
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bogie View Post
Sounds right. I just replaced all that last year. Last thing I found was that one of the fuses had blown (I didn't notice the fuses until I had replaced everything they were farther into the engine compartment).
I am so sorry. On a positive note: you now have brand new devices. My goal, which will likely take a few years is know the electrical systems well enough to be dangerous. At least enough to know when it is over my head. I want to search, survey, and understand the coach side of the RV too (transfer switch, converter, solar panels, interconnections, the radio, the booster antenna, and I am sure there are other hidden components). I may not be alive by the time I know enough to be dangerous since most of these guys building them have been in the field for 40 years. I have found that the guys on this forum know a lot of stuff. I am just touching the iceberg right now. There is so much to learn. Thank you for your response and your acknowledged experience. It makes me feel like I am not alone with these trials and tribulations to get to be a half bait expert;.....more like a novice. Thanks again
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Old 01-04-2019, 10:28 PM   #16
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THOR #6411
If you live in RV for 1,000 nights you will experience just about every malady possible. If you are lucky only about 60% will be owner or grand kid caused.
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Old 01-05-2019, 12:05 PM   #17
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THOR #14082
I have read this several times. I do not live in an RV but spend a great deal of time using it. So far, the longest trip we have made is one month. We only got locked out of our RV once..LOL. God helped us though. Someone has to take care of the pitiful and stupid.
So, really, what does this phrase mean? Thank you.
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Old 01-12-2019, 11:52 PM   #18
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
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I finally got it. I was thinking a "malady" was a ailment like a cold or flu. You do not mean it like that. You mean it like "stuff that breaks or stops working". I am sorry, I am sometime so dense; part of my lifetime engineering background, I suppose. Yes, I do agree that even I cause most of the issues. Mostly by me looking to find something that works just fine, then it stops working, because I broke it while tinkering with it.
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Old 01-13-2019, 12:10 AM   #19
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One of the meanings of malady is "any undesirable or disordered condition".
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Old 01-13-2019, 01:32 AM   #20
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You are so correct. It just took a while for me to really connect the dots. Thank you. I do not have grand children but I can do enough damage for several dozen anyway. Have a good day.
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