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Old 08-24-2018, 01:12 AM   #1
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
State: Indiana
Posts: 9
THOR #12800
Thor Hurricane

Is it normal when driving your Hurricane to constantly move the steering wheel to keep it between the lines. It seems like I’am adjusting a lot.
Larry

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Old 08-24-2018, 01:39 AM   #2
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Challenger 37TB
State: Kentucky
Posts: 1,032
THOR #1020
Larry - for me it was normal until I quit driving short and started focusing on driving long. By driving long - I am routinely looking up the road at least a 1/10th of a mile. Just for a tester, I was on a good open road and then took my hands up off the wheel. Lo and behold, coach just about straight. It's when I figured out, it was me that needed the constant adjustments, not the coach.

Just my experience.
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Old 08-24-2018, 02:11 AM   #3
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Hurricane 35C
State: Washington
Posts: 4
THOR #6039
Stabilizer and other mods

My 2016 Hurricane 35C was 'all over the road' when I first started driving it and one of the first mods I purchased was a steering stabilizer. The particular one I used was made by Roadmaster (Safe-T-Plus and other manufacturers are also highly rated). Later on I also added a rear sway bar and an upgraded front sway bar. If you search on this and other RV forums, you can also get info on such mods as the 'CHF' cheap handing fix, replacement and/or add on springs (like those made by Bilstein or Sumo), and also the possibility of having a wheel alignment performed. I felt that the stabilizer was one of the best add-ons I have purchased. I would also advise that unless you have specialized tools and knowledge, it may be best to have these mods professionally installed.
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Old 08-24-2018, 04:12 AM   #4
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: 2018 Challenger 37 YT
State: Kentucky
Posts: 98
THOR #8995
Steering

I had Thor ACE 29.3 with 19.5" wheels and even after an alignment, it was required constant steering adjustment to keep it straight. It was a chore to drive usually with both hands on the wheel to feel safe. Moved up to a 2018 Thor Challenger 37YT that has 22.5" wheels and it drives just like a car. No wandering or wheel correction and usually drive with one hand. Both are built on Ford F53 chassis. One is longer and heavier with larger wheels. Go figure. Challenger governor is set a 77 MPH and it just as stable at 50 MPH.
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Old 08-24-2018, 01:31 PM   #5
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Hurricane 27K
State: California
Posts: 623
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I've done everything timtyni has done and am going to do one more upgrade and add the Safety Steer rear trac bar. All of the mods have made some improvement but I am still getting the tail wag or push sideways when a vehicle passes. Oddly, a pickup or SUV pushes more than big rigs. That said, what bigben had to say is also good advice and it will get better as you learn to drive it but I've got over 10,000 miles and still have problems.
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Old 08-24-2018, 02:18 PM   #6
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Hurricane 31S
State: Texas
Posts: 4,177
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I find than my coach drives fine when I am not towing. I did add Sumo springs because I was hitting the spring bump stops in the very rough roads. This helped greatly with the coach sway but did not effect the steering. If I was towing the Rampside on the dolly, I could feel the dolly pull on the rear. Considering the coach has a 190" wheel base and 150 inch rear overhang, I would say that was normal. I added a rear track bar from Ultra RV Products and that cured the dolly pull problem. A good thrust alignment is necessary to get the coach to track properly. We are currently in Creede, CO to get away form the San Antonio heat. The coach handled the 40 miles cross winds in the Chihuahuan desert and the climbs to Ceede, 8,680 ft elevation with out a problem.
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Old 08-24-2018, 09:08 PM   #7
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Model: Hurricane 34E
State: Florida
Posts: 48
THOR #11425
I've got a 2014 Hurricane 34E. I find that I have to gently correct as I'm driving also.
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Old 08-24-2018, 10:30 PM   #8
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State: Georgia
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as having driven brand new coaches of all types from the factories to dealers, they ALL drive differently, and especially the more noticeable on the Class A gas units, especially the more the overhang behind the rear wheels the RV has. Some is also attributed to the wheelbase length(length between the front and rear wheels), as shorter wheelbase units tend to require slightly more 'adjustment' while driving - some due to wind, crown of the road, and/or height versus length.
Diesels tend to have the least difference in models and lengths since the 'pushing' from the rear creates a different effect while driving, and the weight of these coaches and their beefier chassis' tend to keep their center of gravity lower.
Personally, my '15 Georgetown was a typically Class A gas hitch height of about 23", but my Palazzo diesel pusher hitch height is only 15"... I also only have a single exterior entrance step.

I will admit that after each time of having delivered several Class A gas units, I was joyful to be back in my own Palazzo diesel, or even one of the other diesels I was delivering. But while there's a difference, enjoy what you have, and make the best of it.
I would be a proud owner of most any Class A gas if I owned one, and I have. Class A gas RVs drive the way they do because of the nature of their chassis, the engine placement, the suspension, the amount of weight, and the higher center of gravity...


drive, travel, enjoy! : ) it's all fun
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Old 08-25-2018, 12:08 AM   #9
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Model: Challenger 37TB
State: Kentucky
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If you already own your coach not much you can do about wheel base to length ratio but this ought to help fellow owners understand the cause. Once you understand the issue you can pay some additional attention to load. Hope this is useful.

https://axleaddict.com/rvs/Why-RV-Wh...o-Is-Important
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