Thor Vegas 24.1 Generator starting issue

[chickon1]

I just started having issue with the Onan 4000 generator trying to start. The relay solenoid just clicks like crazy and it barely turns over.

Testing:
I get 13.7 volts on the pos terminal of the solenoid

Jumped the solenoid.. Same issue.. barely turns the starter.

I disconnected the batteries and tested one battery that the generator is connected to. It was around 11volts. not good.

Tightened all terminals I could find.

If I put a volt meter on the relay side and tried to start.. the voltage drops to around 3V..

Are these batteries toast? I will probably get one battery and test to see if that will start it.

[Beau388]

Originally Posted by chickon1

I just started having issue with the Onan 4000 generator trying to start. The relay solenoid just clicks like crazy and it barely turns over.

Testing:
I get 13.7 volts on the pos terminal of the solenoid

Jumped the solenoid.. Same issue.. barely turns the starter.

I disconnected the batteries and tested one battery that the generator is connected to. It was around 11volts. not good.

Tightened all terminals I could find.

If I put a volt meter on the relay side and tried to start.. the voltage drops to around 3V..

Are these batteries toast? I will probably get one battery and test to see if that will start it.

Yes the batteries are suspect.

[taylorbob1]

Based on what you’re describing, sounds like your battery(s) are toast?

What yr is your24.1 ?
When we’re the house batteries last replaced?
How abt chassis battery?
Have you tried to start genny via the dash toggle switch?

Finally, always replace house batteries in pairs.

[chickon1]

Originally Posted by taylorbob1

Based on what you’re describing, sounds like your battery(s) are toast?

What yr is your24.1 ?
When we’re the house batteries last replaced?
How abt chassis battery?
Have you tried to start genny via the dash toggle switch?

Finally, always replace house batteries in pairs.

Is a 2020 model and minimal battery use.. I'm wondering if it could be the starter.. I was referring to just trying to start it with one know good battery

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by chickon1

Is a 2020 model and minimal battery use.. I'm wondering if it could be the starter.. I was referring to just trying to start it with one know good battery

You said you were going to do that in your OP. Did you do that?
Have you had the house batteries tested?

If the house batteries are OEM then they are 3 to 4 years old and with the abuse they take on the dealer's lot they are much more likely to be bad than the generator starter.

[chickon1]

You are probably right. Any good battery recommendations? I have a X2 in my truck and it's awesome but like $500.. is there a way to change the charge voltage up to AGM level?

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by chickon1

You are probably right. Any good battery recommendations? I have a X2 in my truck and it's awesome but like $500.. is there a way to change the charge voltage up to AGM level?

No, not in the standard converter. In reality, no change is needed for a deep cycle AGM.

[Chateau_Nomad]

If no solar on the roof on a NEW rig, house batteries are guaranteed to be heavily abused by the dealer.

After purchasing ours new, one of the first projects was solar on the roof, new charge controller and replacing the house batteries. Have had ZERO issues in 3+ years.

I suggest biting the bullet and replacing the house batteries and be done with it. Then take measures to keep them charged... NEVER let them get below 50% state of charge!! That's why new motorhome batteries are usually DOA... dealers let them completely discharge MANY times... which destroys them.

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Chateau_Nomad

If no solar on the roof on a NEW rig, house batteries are guaranteed to be heavily abused by the dealer.

I suggest biting the bullet and replacing the house batteries and be done with it. Then take measures to keep them charged... NEVER let them get below 50% state of charge!! That's why new motorhome batteries are usually DOA... dealers let them completely discharge MANY times... which destroys them.

Preach brutha

Another option if you have parasitic draw is to find out what the draw is and fix it. It does not have to be that way despite how the coach was made. At a minimum have cutoff switches that shut it all down if used.

[04fxsts]

Recently had problems starting our 4000 generator in our 2015 ACE. Took to have it checked out and the serviceman said the battery's were toast and would need to be replaced. Did that and all is good in the world again, they were original and dated 9/14 so only eight years old. Jim.

[chickon1]

Gonna throw a battery at it today. I keep mine plugged in at the house so they are always being charged. Is the solar display by the door the charger?

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by chickon1

Gonna throw a battery at it today. I keep mine plugged in at the house so they are always being charged. Is the solar display by the door the charger?

No, although if you have solar there should be a solar charger to keep them trickle charged.

The charger is integrated into the Power Center and is called a CONVERTER as it converts 120 VAC to 12+ VDC for house DC loads and battery charging when plugged into SP and the battery disconnect is closed (Master Power ON, USE/STORE switch in USE).

[chickon1]

Originally Posted by 16ACE27

No, although if you have solar there should be a solar charger to keep them trickle charged.

The charger is integrated into the Power Center and is called a CONVERTER as it converts 120 VAC to 12+ VDC for house DC loads and battery charging when plugged into SP and the battery disconnect is closed (Master Power ON, USE/STORE switch in USE).

That makes sense. There is a small solar monitor panel (I don't have solar panels) that is fused 20a connected to the batteries. It must be an alternate charging option I guess.

[chickon1]

Yup.. batteries are garbage.. hooked up my truck too it

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by chickon1

Yup.. batteries are garbage.. hooked up my truck too it

[chickon1]

I want to get agm but a need a way to get higher voltage.. 13.1v isn't gonna cut it.. is the a battery controller somewhere? I measuring that at the battery terminal

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by chickon1

I want to get agm but a need a way to get higher voltage.. 13.1v isn't gonna cut it.. is the a battery controller somewhere? I measuring that at the battery terminal

13.7 is not a Lead Acid battery voltage. A Lead Acid (LA) battery is fully charged at 12.7 - 12.8 volts at rest.

The converter and alternator charge at several different stages:

14.4-14.5 VDC is the bulk charging stage
13.6 - 13.7 VDC is the absorption charging phase
13.0 - 13.2 VDC is the float charging phase

If you want your DC buss to run at 13.6 VDC (at rest) you will need to upgrade to Lithium batteries which will also require a Converter upgrade as well as a BIM upgrade.

AFAIK there are no available battery solutions for a >13.7 VDC buss voltage from the batteries.

[chickon1]

That's good to know. From what I was reading seems like most do a 3 stage charge. I know my tacoma only does 13.7 from the alternator I haven't checked the ford yet. I had to put a diode in to bump it up to 14.5.

Sounds like there is no issue running AGM then?

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by chickon1

I want to get agm but a need a way to get higher voltage.. 13.1v isn't gonna cut it.. is the a battery controller somewhere? I measuring that at the battery terminal

Why do you say or feel that 13.1vdc "isn't gonna cut it"

I have AGMs and I rant and rave about my ability to NEVER go below 12.4VDC. I use my AGS to make that possible. I could raise the setting in the AGS to higher voltage but why?

My AGMs are made for cycling so I see running down to 12.4vdc (50% SOC) as a good thing every so often. I will never hit the number of cycles they are rated for.

[chickon1]

I'm referring to the charge voltage..not the operating voltage