Torque?

[Shawn62]

Ninjatoto,

That has an F-53 chassis. The wheel covers/simulators are held on by three lock nuts that look like fake lug nuts. The lock nuts usually have a square dimple on some of the flat sides to identify them. Remove the lock nuts and the cover comes off. Sometimes the coach came with a special plastic coated socket or pliers to remove the nut and protect the chrome finish. I cover the nut with a plastic bag and use a regular socket.

Check these nuts on a regular basis for tightness. I lost one and it wasn’t easy to locate an exact replacement. I bought 4 so I would have them on hand.

[Ninjatoto]

Thanks I’ll check it out

[MLP]

Torque depends on what the size of the nut/thread is and what the rim is made of (aluminum or steel). So consult the manual. Second never rely on the tire installer to torque properly. They will tell you that their air guns are calibrated. This is ^@#*&^%$>. They usually over torque and sometimes under torque. I had an over torque happen that required replacement of the studs and nuts on all wheels. The threads were partially sheared and I discovered this when I removed one nut and then all. I had to used a breaker bar with a three foot pipe to get them it to turn. I was lucky in that with the bar one actually was able to be removed using the bar all the way off. I always loosen and then torque the lug nuts after anyone else services my RV.

An under torqued or over torqued lug nut can loosen and fly off. Under torque should be understood, but over torque will destroy the spring effect of the threads and thus through vibrations will loosen and spin off. Over torquing beyond that will destroy the threads like what happened to me. Proper torquing will set the threads into spring tension and this will keep them from loosing up. Check them after 100 miles and them at 400 miles. If no movement, the they should be good to go and check once a year.

[Shawn62]

Originally Posted by MLP

Torque depends on what the size of the nut/thread is and what the rim is made of (aluminum or steel). So consult the manual. Second never rely on the tire installer to torque properly. They will tell you that their air guns are calibrated. This is ^@#*&^%$>. They usually over torque and sometimes under torque. I had an over torque happen that required replacement of the studs and nuts on all wheels. The threads were partially sheared and I discovered this when I removed one nut and then all. I had to used a breaker bar with a three foot pipe to get them it to turn. I was lucky in that with the bar one actually was able to be removed using the bar all the way off. I always loosen and then torque the lug nuts after anyone else services my RV.

An under torqued or over torqued lug nut can loosen and fly off. Under torque should be understood, but over torque will destroy the spring effect of the threads and thus through vibrations will loosen and spin off. Over torquing beyond that will destroy the threads like what happened to me. Proper torquing will set the threads into spring tension and this will keep them from loosing up. Check them after 100 miles and them at 400 miles. If no movement, the they should be good to go and check once a year.

MLP,
Well said. Great point about over torqued wheel fasteners and stretched threads on the wheel studs. I have seen over torqued or unevenly torqued wheel fasteners cause a vibration on disc brakes. Also good to point out that to properly check torque after a shop has them off means loosening then re-torquing the wheel fasteners.

[Long & Winding road]

I did a quick search on line. Ford F53 chassis shows 150 - 160 FT LB for lug nuts and my E450 chassis shows 140 FT LBs.

[Jimmie Dale]

okay, just bought a 2015 Thor 27.1, have been looking for the correct manuals and finding some of them but have yet to find one for the correct torque for lug nuts. Does anyone have one readily available, the previous owner says it is a 2014 chassis.

[Bob Denman]

Originally Posted by Jimmie Dale

okay, just bought a 2015 Thor 27.1, have been looking for the correct manuals and finding some of them but have yet to find one for the correct torque for lug nuts. Does anyone have one readily available, the previous owner says it is a 2014 chassis.

Which chassis is it?
Oh! Welcome to the Forum too!

[EA37TS]

Originally Posted by Jimmie Dale

okay, just bought a 2015 Thor 27.1, have been looking for the correct manuals and finding some of them but have yet to find one for the correct torque for lug nuts. Does anyone have one readily available, the previous owner says it is a 2014 chassis.

Welcome to the forum.

Have you gone to the Ford Owners page (Ford Garage) and entered the info for your F53 chassis. You should be able to get the F53 chassis manual from Ford's web site.

One thing to be careful of is the F53 came with both 19 inch and 22.5 inch wheels depending on the specific chassis configuration. I imagine the lug nut torque may be different depending on wheel size.

If remember correctly the torque is somewhere between 140 - 160 ft lbs. I could be wrong on that spec.

[16ACE27]

150 Ft-Lbs on my 2015 F53 chassis with 19.5" wheels.