Vegas 24.1 AC good enough?

[familyontheroad]

I am considering purchasing a Vegas 24.1, but I am concerned about the AC. I have a Majestic that is the same size (25 feet). The AC BTUs are the same. The Majestic AC works wonderfully. Cools the whole coach pretty quickly. It is even good when it is over 100 degrees. Last summer, I looked at a 30 foot Thor Windsport and even after half a day, it would NOT cool. I know it was bigger, but I think it had to do with the duct work. The Vegas 24.1 has the same duct work. Can anyone tell me that the Vegas 24.1 (or Axis 24.1) is good enough when you live in the hot hot desert? I would test it out, but I am considering purchasing now! Thank you!

[JamieGeek]

Welcome to the site.

We haven't had much of an issue with our A/C keeping things cool, but we're in Michigan. I do have to add that there have been a few times where it took the A/C all day--until the sun went down, basically, to bring the coach to a reasonable temp.

There are things you can do to ease the workload on the A/C. Namely, for Axis/Vegas units, cover that huge front window with either a Sunguard or Magneshade. Keep the heat from getting in to begin with.

There are other tweaks as well (search around the site here there were a few long discussions on improving A/C operation).

[DavidEM]

I think that the tweeks JamieGeek is refering to relate to the center duct air distribution. One some installation there can be internal recirculation in the A/C outlet that lets cold air back into the return air. A simple baffle solves this and improves overall performance.

David

[jeepfyxer@gmail.com]

We are right now in Central Florida Sorrento to be exact, about 82 moderate humidity(40%) sunny the thermostat set at 73
Unit is only running periodically.
Takes a while to initially cool the entire inside ( about 4 hours) then it seems to keep up nicely.

[Scubawise]

Originally Posted by DavidEM

I think that the tweeks JamieGeek is refering to relate to the center duct air distribution. One some installation there can be internal recirculation in the A/C outlet that lets cold air back into the return air. A simple baffle solves this and improves overall performance.

David

This was our case. Resealed everything and 100% better

And used window stuff on Amazon made custom window covers. If we put in windows blocks sun 100% and cools extremely quickly

[pearcec]

Originally Posted by Scubawise

This was our case. Resealed everything and 100% better

Can you give a more detailed response of what was done or what you did? Or do you have a link to the original thread?

[Scubawise]

Originally Posted by pearcec

Can you give a more detailed response of what was done or what you did? Or do you have a link to the original thread?

The great folks here recommended I look at inside return. Hot was mixing with cold revealed with:

[150 Feet / 50 Yards] 1.9 Inch Wide Aluminum Tape/Aluminum Foil Tape – Professional/Contractor-Grade - Excellent Sealing & Patching Hot and Cold HVAC, Duct, Pipe, Insulation Home and Commercial

Also used this on entire roof AC after removing hood.

Used window covers for mainly big front window.

In AZ & NM no problem keeping up.

Expect 15 to 20 less.

We Also open windows to let early fresh air in before cooling

Good luck

[paulwadley]

I used the aluminum tape to seal off the divider under the air conditioner cover on the inside of the coach. A lot of times the hot air mixes with the cold air before exiting the air conditioner because the divider is not completely sealed to stop it. By using the aluminum tape, you can seal it up and avert this from happening. There are several YouTube videos to show you what to do.

Paul

[Wrpt58]

In my 29M, I use reflectix to cover the windsheild and un-used windows.

Paid for the RV Air mod (~$110) and installed it in the Mach AC unit. Used metal tape to "smooth" out transitions into the ductwork.

Installed "plugs" at the ends of the ductwork, front and rear.

Insulated the Evap line in the unit on the roof.

Cut out the finger sized plastic grating and installed sheetrock screen in it's place so that the condenser fan gets better, more air to push thru condensor and has no restriction on the back side of the condensor. (U-tube video reference)

Remember, you not only want the Cold air to be cold and get where you want it, but the unit has to be efficiently getting rid of the hot gases it uses to make the cold air. Anything you can do to accomplish this is all good.

All this helps Tremendously. Looking to install an electronic T-stat in the future, but not necessary.
While it helps, we have to remember that we are living in a big Oven, so we are learning to turn the AC on within the last hour of getting to our stop.

We have 1 AC unit, and are still considering installing another in the bedroom vent, since we are going full time in the nex year and a half. Jury is still out on if it is necessary or not.

Hope this helps,
Recie

[gnach]

A link for the AC baffle mod:
https://youtu.be/V9rEQb05Qv4

The "ducting" is just two voids in the 3 layers of ceiling foam. They are channels running front to back and end at the front and back roof caps. The are open, uninsulated spaces (that's another mod).
The plug mod is to stuff insulation into the ends of the channels by removing the last vent grill of each run. Think of the layout like an "H".

[ElectricZ]

Lots of good responses, I'll add my own experiences in my Axis 25.4 during last summer here in Texas where it got up to 105 on a regular basis, parked with a minimum of shade. With some mods, it became bearable. Not cool, but livable - with some caveats.

1. Reflectix. I bought a big roll of Reflectix to cover up the windows during the day. It was a bit of work, but you can tape wrapping paper to make patterns for all the windows (except one, see below) then use those patterns to cut the Reflectix to make shades for the windows. Blocking out all the windows, even the ones on the shady side, made a big difference in temperature. The only downside is that after about 11 AM every day, I felt I was living in a submarine. That, and I couldn't figure how to cover the front window until...

2. I found a store-bought blackout shade that works to cover that beautiful front windshield that lets in all the light and heat into your rig. I made a thread about it here. That big window will turn your rig into an oven. You can cover it up from the inside, maybe, but covering that much area from the outside keeps the heat from getting in. You can get a magnashade solution for hundreds of dollars, or spend $40 on a suction cup shade that does just a good a job. It takes practice getting the thing aligned, but once I started covering up that front window, I was truly able to last out the summer heat. Of course, it just enhanced the submarine feeling of not being able to see outside, but it really made a difference in air temp.

3. I bought an RV Airflow kit, which is a custom styrofoam insert that keeps the AC inflow/outflow separate and properly sends the air into the ducts. It was also a big help in keeping the rig cool, and helped with noise as a bonus. Others have posted the DIY solution that does the same thing. Had I seen that first, I would have given it a shot.

4. Make sure your "air ducts' in the roof are terminated. In mine, they didn't end at the vents. I took the vents off and the hollow channels in both front and back went all the way to the end caps so cool air was blowing into the space between the ceiling and the roof. Taping off those channels redirected the air back down into the living space.

So, limit the light getting in and fix your ducts and you'll have a much better time of it. You won't get it down to 68 degrees, but you might be able to keep it from going over the low 80's.