Time for New Batteries

[JIM SNYDER]

Originally Posted by TonnyS

Time to replace the house batteries AGAIN in my 17 Windsport 29M. Last time I used Walmart batteries. good for about 16 months. Any other better batteries that I won't have to sell body parts to purchase??
I also need a starting battery as well!!
Thanks

You sold your body parts when you bought the Class A !!!

As for the house batteries, I replaced my original leaky, tired, hard to maintain fluid batteries with a nice set of AGM, sealed, no maintenance, no leaks from BATTERY +. Yes the AGM.s are expensive but now all my house battery worries and headaches are gone !!! We recently did a couple on booddock nights in Va. I ran my CPAP machine both nights via the onboard inverter via the house batteries. Sure was nice !!!

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by JIM SNYDER

You sold your body parts when you bought the Class A !!!

As for the house batteries, I replaced my original leaky, tired, hard to maintain fluid batteries with a nice set of AGM, sealed, no maintenance, no leaks from BATTERY +. Yes the AGM.s are expensive but now all my house battery worries and headaches are gone !!! We recently did a couple on booddock nights in Va. I ran my CPAP machine both nights via the onboard inverter via the house batteries. Sure was nice !!!

Yes sir, welcome to the site.

You qualify for a Free Membership to the AGM Batteries R Us Peace of Mind Club.

Our Motto is "A cup of Distilled Water is a terrible thing to waste"

[Chateau_Nomad]

Originally Posted by dkoldman

So technically speaking Chevy's ZL1, Corvette, and "Chevy Cruze" are all classed as gasoline engines... just a different internal construction.

I will stick with my new Corvette (AGM) that I sold my perfectly fine Cruze (Flooded) to get. I opted to not consider the ZL1 (Lithium) because they do not come standard with Air-conditioning

Hey now... I can't help it if I'm a po' boy!

Yep... and a General Motors EMD 710 series and Duramax® 6.6L Turbo-Diesel V8 Engine are VERY similar... well, both run on diesel.

[NWtraveler]

A engineer friend told me something that really helped my battery life. Get two solar chargers and connect to your coach and engine batteries. The battery cells go bad if not used or charged on a regular basis. One plugs into the cig lighter for the engine and the other I just clip to the coach battery. I have them in the cab window to pick up sunlight. They don't have to be in direct sunlight to work. Hope this helps.

[richardehrhart]

When I bought a used ACE it was about a year and a half old. The house batteries lasted maybe 6 months more and then died. I didn't check fluid level and they were nearly empty. I replaced with Duracell deep cycle marine AGM from Sam's Club for about $160 each. They don't have to be checked for fluid so that's one less maintenance issue to deal with. They are now over 2 years old and I am very happy with the purchase. Also an RV mechanic told me that by leaving the battery switch in "use" position FLA batteries are constantly being charged which will eventually boil out the electrolyte. Only turn on a day or 2 before leaving on a tip.

[Chateau_Nomad]

Originally Posted by richardehrhart

When I bought a used ACE it was about a year and a half old. The house batteries lasted maybe 6 months more and then died. I didn't check fluid level and they were nearly empty. I replaced with Duracell deep cycle marine AGM from Sam's Club for about $160 each. They don't have to be checked for fluid so that's one less maintenance issue to deal with. They are now over 2 years old and I am very happy with the purchase. Also an RV mechanic told me that by leaving the battery switch in "use" position FLA batteries are constantly being charged which will eventually boil out the electrolyte. Only turn on a day or 2 before leaving on a tip.

My batteries are being charged as long as sunlight is hitting the roof mounted solar panels... and I always keep the use/store switch (battery disconnect) OFF when sitting "idle" in the back yard. It's intentionally wired that way... by design.

Your RV mechanic is misinformed. The use/store switch disconnects the DRAIN on the batteries, NOT the charging side.

[taylorbob1]

And if your charge converter is functioning properly, your standard FLA battery will do fine
But you need to keep an eye on it

Mine last 3yrs or so
I’m OK with that

[Beau388]

Originally Posted by richardehrhart

Also an RV mechanic told me that by leaving the battery switch in "use" position FLA batteries are constantly being charged which will eventually boil out the electrolyte. Only turn on a day or 2 before leaving on a tip.

The standard 3 or 4 stage lead-acid battery charger will drop the voltage to 13.1 to 13.5 volts depending on the temperature of the batteries or the converter when the battery is completely charged. This is the float stage. This is the same voltage of a trickle battery charger or battery maintainer. At 68 F degrees, it takes 13.2 volts to overcome the internal resistance of a lead acid battery. At this voltage or a couple tenth higher voltage there is not enough heat generated to raise the battery's internal temperature enough to cause out-gassing. Leaving a lead acid battery even slightly discharged for any significant time will shorten its useful life. That is why most seldom driven, antique auto are kept on trickle chargers.

[Jimbo56]

Originally Posted by taylorbob1

And if your charge converter is functioning properly, your standard FLA battery will do fine
But you need to keep an eye on it

Mine last 3yrs or so
I’m OK with that

I pulled my batteries out at end of first season, topped them off with distilled water. Went to a truck tire shop and got an old tractor inner tube for free. I cut rubber mats from the tube to put under the house batteries and the chassis battery. Hooked everything back up. Slapped a little Vaseline on the positive terminals and good till end of season 2. Same thing. Still going 30 months later. IMHO the secret to FLA batteries, deep cycle or not, is never letting them discharge completely.

[mjmercer1111]

Were the AGM's compatible with the charger/inverter or did you need to make changes to those?

[richardehrhart]

No changes needed. They're the same as a liquid filed battery but better since they can't leak and can be turned over.

[JIM SNYDER]

Originally Posted by Jimbo56

That’s what I think I will do once my OE flooded batteries fail. But so far, since the coach rolled off the line in 3/2019 they still do fine. I add distilled water twice a year. It is a pain since I have to unplug from shore power. Put the switch in store. Disconnect all the cables. Lift them out. Fill em. Clean up the mess. And put everything back together. The chassis battery under the hood can be done without removing. But, I ususally draw blood when I raise up from squeezing my head in to see down in the holes and then raise up, forgetting what I did to get in their. Usually heals in a week or so.

It appears you are in same place I was in, i.e. major maintenance just to keep the 'fluid' batteries going !! I will 'NEVER' buy another RV with fluid batteries..NEVER !! I went with AGM's from BATTERY PLUS..no muss, no fuss, the reconditioned battery box looks brand new, all is well !! As far as the inverter/converter, 12VDC is still 12VDC...no problem.

Beware...beware,,,the battery disconnect switch is the 'devil in disguise'. Anytime you have a coach side DC problem, check the BDS first. Mine recently caused me lots of pain !!!

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by JIM SNYDER

It appears you are in same place I was in, i.e. major maintenance just to keep the 'fluid' batteries going !! I will 'NEVER' buy another RV with fluid batteries..NEVER !! I went with AGM's from BATTERY PLUS..no muss, no fuss, the reconditioned battery box looks brand new, all is well !! As far as the inverter/converter, 12VDC is still 12VDC...no problem.

Beware...beware,,,the battery disconnect switch is the 'devil in disguise'. Anytime you have a coach side DC problem, check the BDS first. Mine recently caused me lots of pain !!!

Amen brutha... for the life of me, I can't understand why a 6 figure mobile home would have FLA batteries for House Applications. Before anyone starts mumbling money, it is nonsense, because of the related things that are added, i.e. solar, generator, inverter, converter etc. My Pure AGMs was by far the most significant mod $ for $. I just hate I didn't know enough to replace the FLA right away before all of the corrosion and sulfating took place in my battery compartment

Disclaimer: My FLA Chassis battery is perfectly fine and no issues. I have never added any water and have zero plans to do so; When it / if it dies I will just get another; but my entire life of owing FLA batteries autos boats etc, I have never had to add water nor seen any issues until RV House application.

[Pete'sMH]

Originally Posted by JIM SNYDER

It appears you are in same place I was in, i.e. major maintenance just to keep the 'fluid' batteries going !! I will 'NEVER' buy another RV with fluid batteries..NEVER !! I went with AGM's from BATTERY PLUS..no muss, no fuss, the reconditioned battery box looks brand new, all is well !! As far as the inverter/converter, 12VDC is still 12VDC...no problem.



Beware...beware,,,the battery disconnect switch is the 'devil in disguise'. Anytime you have a coach side DC problem, check the BDS first. Mine recently caused me lots of pain !!!

If taking care of flooded batteries is your idea of “major maintenance” and you get seriously passionate about them you’re going to find the larger RV ownership experience to be pretty overwhelming.

[Scubawise]

Originally Posted by JIM SNYDER

It appears you are in same place I was in, i.e. major maintenance just to keep the 'fluid' batteries going !! I will 'NEVER' buy another RV with fluid batteries..NEVER !! I went with AGM's from BATTERY PLUS..no muss, no fuss, the reconditioned battery box looks brand new, all is well !! As far as the inverter/converter, 12VDC is still 12VDC...no problem.

Beware...beware,,,the battery disconnect switch is the 'devil in disguise'. Anytime you have a coach side DC problem, check the BDS first. Mine recently caused me lots of pain !!!

Did you get group 31 and what is AH?
On another thread someone got 125AH

[Scubawise]

Help. I have a question: if I purchase AGM replacement batteries, will any changes to the MH be needed?

[Seabee]

I DO want to change my FLA batteries and replace them with AGM. I would like to increase the physical size from 27 to 29 or 31 series. I have taken the measurements but I'm leery of purchasing and then discovering I missed something (which wouldn't surprise me).
I have a 2014 Vegas 24.1. I would appreciate someone telling me that is has been done OR stick with the 27Series. Thanks. Ed

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Seabee

I DO want to change my FLA batteries and replace them with AGM. I would like to increase the physical size from 27 to 29 or 31 series. I have taken the measurements but I'm leery of purchasing and then discovering I missed something (which wouldn't surprise me).
I have a 2014 Vegas 24.1. I would appreciate someone telling me that is has been done OR stick with the 27Series. Thanks. Ed

I made a cardboard cutout the dimension of my new AGM batteries ( L X W) I did not need to make 3d although that would have been kool. I then took my existing house batteries out and while both batteries would fit, I learned I could not insert the 2nd new house battery with the Chassis battery mounted in position. Sure enough when new AGMs were delivered I had to unmount my chassis battery and slide over about 5 inches. When the Grp 31s were installed I was able to slide my Chassis battery back to where it was.

I don't care what anyone says, getting rid of FLA was the best mod change I made on my RV. FLA was a PITA to me and even if they had water at 65AH, they were not worth a crap. My new batteries are 125AH each. I can go months with no charger, longer if Use switch is off.

[taylorbob1]

Originally Posted by Seabee

I DO want to change my FLA batteries and replace them with AGM. I would like to increase the physical size from 27 to 29 or 31 series. I have taken the measurements but I'm leery of purchasing and then discovering I missed something (which wouldn't surprise me).
I have a 2014 Vegas 24.1. I would appreciate someone telling me that is has been done OR stick with the 27Series. Thanks. Ed

There’s space side to side, but the height is the killer
My 27’s are already very very tight

I’ve heard of Vegas/Axis owners going to 31’s under the steps
But it seems that not all 31’s are exactly the same size
Suggest you measure your 27’s, understand the exact space you’re working with
Then try a few different 31’s measurements before you pull the trigger

“ The dimensions of Group 31 should be roughly 12.90 x 6.75 x 9.25 inches. The BCI Group 27 battery dimensions and specifications are very close to the 31's having the same width, but being slightly shorter in length and height. ”

[dkoldman]

If it comes to height, make sure you are looking at pure AGM battery with no automotive posts. You can always lay the AGMs on the side with the 6.8" being up (height) if necessary.

The ones I bought were only 8.7" inches tall, but I had plenty of height in my SOB.

Group 31 VMax Tank 125 AH Item Dimensions LxWxH 12.9 x 6.8 x 8.7 inches

https://www.amazon.com/GOAL-ZERO-Yet...84349972&psc=1