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Old 05-14-2021, 07:07 PM   #1
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: 2020 Magnitude SV34
State: Florida
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THOR #12751
2020 Magnitude SV34: Fresh Water Tank Electronic Drain

The Omni / Magnitude SV34 (and other models) have the fresh water tank under the bed and Thor placed the drain valve under the bed as well. I like to drain the fresh water tank at the end of each trip and then refill just before the start of the next trip. It was a real pain to take the bed apart everytime you wanted to drain the fresh water tank.

Shortly after I purchased it I installed a manual valve under the coach. There was enough PVC drain pipe sticking out of the floor under the coach that I could connect to it. I glued a threaded 1" fitting to the drain (so I could easily remove it in the future) and added a PVC shut off valve. I left the stock valve open all the time and then just use the valve under the coach to drain it. That's worked fine for almost two years but I was growing tired of crawling under the coach to drain the fresh water tank.

My long term plan was to install an electronic valve so I could just flip a switch a let the tank drain. Now that I am back from hibernating in Florida I have started getting the coach ready for the upcoming season and doing some upgrades so I decided to tackle the electronic valve upgrade first.

I thought about replacing the stock manual valve with the electronic valve under the bed but I decided I didn't want to take apart all of the plumbing and its not much fun working in there since the electronics bay is also located under the bed. I ultimately decided to unscrew the manual valve and install the electronic valve under the coach.

I was then trying to decide where to install the switch. I was thinking about at the front of the coach with all of the other switches at the entry. Then I changed my mind and was going to make it easier on myself and install it under the bed. Then I found a nice wireless switch on Amazon and ordered it to make it really convenient. All I have to do is hit a button on a wireless remote and it will open the valve and drain the tank.

Here is the electronic valve that I used. It opens when 12V is applied and it closes automatically when the voltage is removed from the valve. It is IP65 rated so that is why I wasn't to worried about installing it under the coach and it getting wet. I also was able to tuck it away inside one of the frame rails to protect it as you will see in the picture below.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here is the wireless 12V switch that I ordered. I have all the wiring just about done and will install the switch once Amazon shows up tomorrow. If this switch works well... and the reviews are pretty good for it.... I may order one for my solar system. When I am on shore power, I don't see a reason to have the solar controller competing with the converter to charge the batteries. I was going to install a manual switch to disconnect one of the panel wires from the solar controller but this switch may be the way to go since it is rated for 40A.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I used 18/2 Thermostat wire (the electronic valve had 22 gauge) since it had insulation to protect the two wires and was able to run it up though the floor with all of the other wiring under the coach going into the electronics bay. I soldered on a waterproof quick connector in case I ever need to replace the valve.

I have a couple empty 12V fuse slots in my WFCO Power Distibrution Panel so I am going to use one of the empty slots and add a 5A fuse for the drain valve circuit.

Here are some pics of the installation so far. I will post more once I install the wiress switch and give it a test. I need to de-winterize the coach so the valve will get a good workout as I rinse out the sytsem and then disenfect it.
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Old 05-15-2021, 12:46 AM   #2
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Sounds like a good idea for the water drain 12 v sol.
But on the solar make sure the switch is rated for max DC current your system can put out.
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Old 05-15-2021, 12:52 AM   #3
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Welcome back Judge,
Looks great 👍🏼

Pat
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Old 05-16-2021, 02:23 PM   #4
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THOR #12751
Just finished installing the wireless switch for the fresh water tank electric drain.

It has great range and works very..... it even has a little antenna on the switch. I’m goong to keep a remote in the glove box. As we pull into the driveway I can have the DW open the valve and start duming the water.

Nice little switch for $25. I could see a lot of potential uses.

Here are some pics of the rest of the installation. The far right red wire is the circuit I added to the Power Distribution Panel with a 5A fuse to provide power to the valve via the wireless switch.
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Old 05-21-2021, 10:47 AM   #5
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THOR #12751
So I just finished the plumbing to add another electronic valve with a wireless switch so I can fill my fresh water tank through the city water port.

After looking at a couple different options, I decided to install the valve after the fresh water filter. That way the water coming into the fresh water tank is being filtered on the way in and then again when using the pump.

I decicded to use Shark Bite fittings instead of the cheaper PEX crimp fittings. I put a Shark Bite T in the PEX line coming out of the filter and then connected the electronic switch. I then put another Shark Bite T into the winterization port before the pump and connected a piece of PEX from the output of the valve to the T in the winterization port.

When I hit the On button of the remote, the valve opens and then diverts water coming in from the city water connection back through the winterization port and then into the fresh water tank.

Here is the 1/2" electronic ball valve I installed:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I installed the same type of wireless switch that I used for my fresh water drain valve. In the thord picture the switch on the left if for the fresh water fill valve and the switch on the right is for the fresh water drain:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This will just make life just a little easier. I have a Camco Fresh Water Filler but it often kinks from the wight of the hose... even when I put the hose across the ladder so it doesn't pull down on the filler. Now I can just connect the hose to city water port and fill the tank before we leave on a trip... but the real benefit will be when leaving a campsite I can just add water to the fresh water tank with a press of a button and without having to unhook the hose and drag it around the back of the coach!


While I was doing all this work, I decided to install an Accumulator Tank while I was at it. I used two flexible stainless steel 1/2" FIP flexible water lines to install it between the output of the pump and the input of the filter. You can just see a small portion of it in the lower right corner of the second picture.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

One of the things I decided while working on the electronic drain and the electronic fill project is that I am going to add some PEX and some Shark Bite fittings to my collection of spare parts that I carry. You never know when a leak or other plumbing problem may develop on the road so having some PEX, a tubing cutter and some Shark Bite fittings can help fix any unexpected plumbing problems quick and easy.
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Old 05-21-2021, 02:40 PM   #6
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THOR #6582
Brilliant idea and great execution!
On my Axis, the factory installed the fresh drain tube right on top of the fuel tank and I mean against the tank. Draining was like a swollen prostate, the trickling took over an hour. I pulled that elbow out and extended it to the side wall. Much better flow but the PEX fittings are still a small diameter.
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Old 05-21-2021, 03:27 PM   #7
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Nice install-you will certainly enjoy the electric valve to dump fresh water. I, like you empty my fresh water after every trip & like to do it when I still have a little travel left to get home so the "swaying" action of driving helps to thoroughly empty the tank. I mounted my switch on the bed rail under the mattress in a recess (see previous post) but I have to stop or have dw do it for me. Your wireless switch eliminates that problem! Hadn't thought about toggling the two water sources together but will probably add that to my to-do list also Judge thanks for your thoughtful posts and great detail & pictures-I have replicated many of your upgrades to my SV34.
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Old 05-21-2021, 04:18 PM   #8
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THOR #21941
First I've heard of the Accumulator Tank (yeah, newby). I do have the pump cycling issue and will start looking to add this!
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Old 05-22-2021, 11:44 PM   #9
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THOR #12751
2020 Magnitude SV34: Fresh Water Tank Electronic Drain

Quote:
Originally Posted by waynetaylor55 View Post
First I've heard of the Accumulator Tank (yeah, newby). I do have the pump cycling issue and will start looking to add this!

The SEAFLO Accumulator Tank works great!

No more pump pulsing... the water pressure is more consistent.... and the pump does not have to run for short use. I set the tank pressure to ~28 PSI and it seems to work very well with the factory pump settings and no issues with the tankless water heater either.

I am very happy with all my plumbing mods...... even though plumbing is my least favorite project!


While I was at it I replaced the outdoor kitchen sink faucet with this one....

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


And I replaced the bathroom faucet with this one.....

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Glacier-...6004/314938223

I had intended to install the Glacier Bay in the outdoor kitchen snk as well but the spout is too high and it hit the overhead cabinet. It makes the use the sinks much easier by having a spout that swings out of the way.... especially the outdoor kitchen sink when you are trying to wash larger items.
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Old 05-26-2021, 06:24 PM   #10
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: 2021 Freedom Elite 24FE
State: California
Posts: 41
THOR #21070
Quote:
Originally Posted by Judge View Post
So I just finished the plumbing to add another electronic valve with a wireless switch so I can fill my fresh water tank through the city water port.

After looking at a couple different options, I decided to install the valve after the fresh water filter. That way the water coming into the fresh water tank is being filtered on the way in and then again when using the pump.

I decicded to use Shark Bite fittings instead of the cheaper PEX crimp fittings. I put a Shark Bite T in the PEX line coming out of the filter and then connected the electronic switch. I then put another Shark Bite T into the winterization port before the pump and connected a piece of PEX from the output of the valve to the T in the winterization port.

When I hit the On button of the remote, the valve opens and then diverts water coming in from the city water connection back through the winterization port and then into the fresh water tank.

Here is the 1/2" electronic ball valve I installed:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I installed the same type of wireless switch that I used for my fresh water drain valve. In the thord picture the switch on the left if for the fresh water fill valve and the switch on the right is for the fresh water drain:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This will just make life just a little easier. I have a Camco Fresh Water Filler but it often kinks from the wight of the hose... even when I put the hose across the ladder so it doesn't pull down on the filler. Now I can just connect the hose to city water port and fill the tank before we leave on a trip... but the real benefit will be when leaving a campsite I can just add water to the fresh water tank with a press of a button and without having to unhook the hose and drag it around the back of the coach!


While I was doing all this work, I decided to install an Accumulator Tank while I was at it. I used two flexible stainless steel 1/2" FIP flexible water lines to install it between the output of the pump and the input of the filter. You can just see a small portion of it in the lower right corner of the second picture.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

One of the things I decided while working on the electronic drain and the electronic fill project is that I am going to add some PEX and some Shark Bite fittings to my collection of spare parts that I carry. You never know when a leak or other plumbing problem may develop on the road so having some PEX, a tubing cutter and some Shark Bite fittings can help fix any unexpected plumbing problems quick and easy.
Hi, None of the Amazon links you provided seem to work. They seem to be blocked by the forum with a "page not found". Would you kindly provide the actual names of the products you used for the valve and remote. It all sounds like a great and doable idea!
Thanks!
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Old 05-26-2021, 06:33 PM   #11
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THOR #12751
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wyz3rd View Post
Hi, None of the Amazon links you provided seem to work. They seem to be blocked by the forum with a "page not found". Would you kindly provide the actual names of the products you used for the valve and remote. It all sounds like a great and doable idea!
Thanks!
Here you go......

Motorized Ball Valve- 1/2" Stainless Steel Ball Valve with Full Port, 9-24V AC/DC and 2 Wire Auto Return Setup by U.S. Solid

Motorized Ball Valve- 1" Brass Ball Valve with Standard Port, 9-24V AC/DC and 2 Wire Auto Return Setup by U.S. Solid

VONVOFF Wireless Remote Switch with 328ft Long Range DC 12V/24v/48v/72V Switch for Anti-Theft Alarms, Security Systems Roller Lind Door, Motor Cycles etc (Black)

SEAFLO Pre-Pressurized Accumulator Tank

Bathroom Faucet, 2 Handle Brushed Nickel Bathroom Sink Faucet, 4 Inch Centerset Lead-Free Modern Commercial Bathroom Faucets, 3 Holes Double Handles RV Bathroom Vanity Sink Faucets
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Old 05-26-2021, 06:52 PM   #12
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Model: 2021 Freedom Elite 24FE
State: California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Judge View Post
Here you go......

Motorized Ball Valve- 1/2" Stainless Steel Ball Valve with Full Port, 9-24V AC/DC and 2 Wire Auto Return Setup by U.S. Solid

Motorized Ball Valve- 1" Brass Ball Valve with Standard Port, 9-24V AC/DC and 2 Wire Auto Return Setup by U.S. Solid

VONVOFF Wireless Remote Switch with 328ft Long Range DC 12V/24v/48v/72V Switch for Anti-Theft Alarms, Security Systems Roller Lind Door, Motor Cycles etc (Black)

SEAFLO Pre-Pressurized Accumulator Tank

Bathroom Faucet, 2 Handle Brushed Nickel Bathroom Sink Faucet, 4 Inch Centerset Lead-Free Modern Commercial Bathroom Faucets, 3 Holes Double Handles RV Bathroom Vanity Sink Faucets
Thank you so very much!
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Old 05-30-2021, 05:51 PM   #13
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Model: Magnitude SV-34
State: Colorado
Posts: 2
THOR #17927
Judge,

I like your accumulator idea a lot and will look at adding one to our 2019 SV34.
I ended up removing the outside refrig and cutting a manway panel behind it for access to the valve and filter. After changing the filter I replace the panel with an insulated one I fabricated then replace the frig. Some what awkward but much better than going under the bed.
Coming from the pump world I tend to lean toward a solid manual valve control and am looking at an extended ratchet system that will be under the out side sink for the drain valve.
We are about to embark on out first boon docker outing and suspect solar panels may be in the near future?
We have really enjoyed following your SV34 upgrades.

Ken & Steph in Colorado
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Old 05-31-2021, 12:43 AM   #14
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Model: Windsport 35C
State: Indiana
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Drain/Fill

Judge,

Nice modifications and well thought out!

Let me know when you intend to start on mine.
I am tired of holding the bed up also!
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Old 06-13-2021, 03:47 PM   #15
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: 25.3 Vegas
State: North Carolina
Posts: 3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Judge View Post
The Omni / Magnitude SV34 (and other models) have the fresh water tank under the bed and Thor placed the drain valve under the bed as well. I like to drain the fresh water tank at the end of each trip and then refill just before the start of the next trip. It was a real pain to take the bed apart everytime you wanted to drain the fresh water tank.

Shortly after I purchased it I installed a manual valve under the coach. There was enough PVC drain pipe sticking out of the floor under the coach that I could connect to it. I glued a threaded 1" fitting to the drain (so I could easily remove it in the future) and added a PVC shut off valve. I left the stock valve open all the time and then just use the valve under the coach to drain it. That's worked fine for almost two years but I was growing tired of crawling under the coach to drain the fresh water tank.

My long term plan was to install an electronic valve so I could just flip a switch a let the tank drain. Now that I am back from hibernating in Florida I have started getting the coach ready for the upcoming season and doing some upgrades so I decided to tackle the electronic valve upgrade first.

I thought about replacing the stock manual valve with the electronic valve under the bed but I decided I didn't want to take apart all of the plumbing and its not much fun working in there since the electronics bay is also located under the bed. I ultimately decided to unscrew the manual valve and install the electronic valve under the coach.

I was then trying to decide where to install the switch. I was thinking about at the front of the coach with all of the other switches at the entry. Then I changed my mind and was going to make it easier on myself and install it under the bed. Then I found a nice wireless switch on Amazon and ordered it to make it really convenient. All I have to do is hit a button on a wireless remote and it will open the valve and drain the tank.

Here is the electronic valve that I used. It opens when 12V is applied and it closes automatically when the voltage is removed from the valve. It is IP65 rated so that is why I wasn't to worried about installing it under the coach and it getting wet. I also was able to tuck it away inside one of the frame rails to protect it as you will see in the picture below.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here is the wireless 12V switch that I ordered. I have all the wiring just about done and will install the switch once Amazon shows up tomorrow. If this switch works well... and the reviews are pretty good for it.... I may order one for my solar system. When I am on shore power, I don't see a reason to have the solar controller competing with the converter to charge the batteries. I was going to install a manual switch to disconnect one of the panel wires from the solar controller but this switch may be the way to go since it is rated for 40A.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I used 18/2 Thermostat wire (the electronic valve had 22 gauge) since it had insulation to protect the two wires and was able to run it up though the floor with all of the other wiring under the coach going into the electronics bay. I soldered on a waterproof quick connector in case I ever need to replace the valve.

I have a couple empty 12V fuse slots in my WFCO Power Distibrution Panel so I am going to use one of the empty slots and add a 5A fuse for the drain valve circuit.

Here are some pics of the installation so far. I will post more once I install the wiress switch and give it a test. I need to de-winterize the coach so the valve will get a good workout as I rinse out the sytsem and then disenfect it.
this is a great idea when i find the location and how much of a pain for access i just might add to the mix.
thanks so much.
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Old 06-15-2021, 11:51 PM   #16
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Model: Hurricane 34J
State: Florida
Posts: 159
THOR #15745
2020 Magnitude SV34: Fresh Water Tank Electronic Drain

The drain pipe should exit out the bottom of the coach. It should be a 1” PVC PIPE. I had the same problem. I added an electric stainless steel ball valve to theClick image for larger version

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I put this on an older post.
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