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Old 05-14-2019, 06:01 AM   #21
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So I am not electrician and it’s not my thing so this may just sound dumb. But why not just changed the coach over to 50 amp, changing a cord, breaker box and maybe a transfer switch sounds easier then drilling holes that may end of leaking, carrying more cords etc. I am not saying that this would be cheaper but if you ever got to the point where you wanted to run a second AC you would be all set up for that. Once again may be a dumb thought so don’t laugh too hard at the suggestion
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Old 05-14-2019, 11:35 AM   #22
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I just wanted to add this link to a you tube video I saw awhile ago. It was easy to follow, even gor me.
https://youtu.be/w1ZO5RxKoq8
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Old 05-14-2019, 12:50 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Elite Washington View Post
So I am not electrician and itís not my thing so this may just sound dumb. But why not just changed the coach over to 50 amp, changing a cord, breaker box and maybe a transfer switch sounds easier then drilling holes that may end of leaking, carrying more cords etc. I am not saying that this would be cheaper but if you ever got to the point where you wanted to run a second AC you would be all set up for that. Once again may be a dumb thought so donít laugh too hard at the suggestion
Way more work and expense than just adding a second, independent circuit.
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Old 05-14-2019, 02:05 PM   #24
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addition 15-amp shore power

As it happens I will be starting this very mod today. Adding a second circuit so that I can run two space heaters on cold days and a portable air conditioner if/when itís needed. Why does this thread seem to be about adding a 15A circuit? If youíre going through all that effort you might as well plan on 20A. Use 12 ga romex add a 20A inlet and breaker box in your electric compartment and use 20A outlets. I will route my power cord (just a 20A outdoor extension cord) the same as my coach 30A cord and am able to pull my interior wiring through cabinets under drawers.
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Old 05-14-2019, 02:36 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by Pete'sMH View Post
As it happens I will be starting this very mod today. Adding a second circuit so that I can run two space heaters on cold days and a portable air conditioner if/when itís needed. Why does this thread seem to be about adding a 15A circuit? If youíre going through all that effort you might as well plan on 20A. Use 12 ga romex add a 20A inlet and breaker box in your electric compartment and use 20A outlets. I will route my power cord (just a 20A outdoor extension cord) the same as my coach 30A cord and am able to pull my interior wiring through cabinets under drawers.

It doesn't matter how large a cord you run...virtually all secondary power receptacles at campgrounds are 15A. I think the OP was just asking more about where to run it into the coach than why and how much power to run.
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Old 05-14-2019, 02:59 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by The Gritz Carlton View Post
It doesn't matter how large a cord you run...virtually all secondary power receptacles at campgrounds are 15A. I think the OP was just asking more about where to run it into the coach than why and how much power to run.


Well but but some are 20A and even if not, using 20A wiring and components gives you a bit of margin for a heavily loaded outlet like running an 1800W space heater. Or you can use the 50A on the pedestal with an adapter or with a splitter. At least that was my thought process when planning my dayís project.
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Old 05-14-2019, 03:07 PM   #27
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I'm on board...always go with heavier wiring...JIC...leaves room for a change of plans later.
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Old 05-25-2019, 08:42 PM   #28
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Yes I added a 15 a receptacle in my kitchen area ACE 30.1

Ran a 20 amp cord thru my countertop down and thru floor. It continues thru the compartment And I added a screw PVC connection in front of the left rear tire. At this point a short cord is all I need to connect to power.
When not in use I just screw the cap on.
Works great for hot plate or coffeemaker or an electric heater.
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Old 05-25-2019, 09:35 PM   #29
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Question... Other than cost: would there be any disadvantage to upgrading to a 50 amp setup?
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Old 05-25-2019, 11:35 PM   #30
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Go ahead spend another $2000/$3000

If you have rv shop do this it will cost a lot.
Running more wires.
Just add 1 outlet in kitchen
Recomend 20 amp gfci and 12 gauge wire.
As long as you know what you are doing
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Old 05-26-2019, 01:23 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by tinman68 View Post
Ran a 20 amp cord thru my countertop down and thru floor. It continues thru the compartment And I added a screw PVC connection in front of the left rear tire. At this point a short cord is all I need to connect to power.

When not in use I just screw the cap on.

Works great for hot plate or coffeemaker or an electric heater.


Nice, simple plan. Iíd suggest using an extension cord with an integral ground fault circuit breaker. Gives you some added protection and allows you to use the 50A outlet on a park pedestal with an adapter or splitter.
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Old 05-26-2019, 02:06 AM   #32
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I used a flanged inlet shown, in pic, thru side wall. Wired with romex to a duplex in galley. 20 amp at Supply Stanton at RV park has breaker. Peter
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Old 05-26-2019, 03:45 AM   #33
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Some do, some don't. But you can bet they'll drop you like a hot potato when they learn the rig burned down due to modifications that were contrary to RVIA standards.
Hopefully he has The Farmers.. " we know a thing or two because we have seen a thing or two.."
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Old 05-27-2019, 12:35 AM   #34
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I installed a outdoor type box with a male 3 prong 120 v plug and mounted it inside my lower compartment bay next to the sewer compartment, same side as 30 amp plug of coarse. Then ran 12/3 Romex out the back, routed it along the frame to the battery compartment on the other side and came into the dinette seat next to the bathroom. Put a receptacle at the inside of the seat next to the wall then went into the bathroom and mounted another receptacle at the bottom of the wall to the right of the toilet for the hair dryer. Need to put a ground fault in one of the receptacles as well. Some towers are not wired to power a 30 amp plug and a 120v plug, but you can use the 120v if you are at family or friends and still make coffee or dry your hair without running the Genny...you can also get an adapter and plug into your 30amp plug but just know your amperage usages!!
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Old 05-27-2019, 03:36 AM   #35
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Hopefully he has The Farmers.. " we know a thing or two because we have seen a thing or two.."
My point exactly: the insurance company covers it without finding a "magic loophole". People modify vehicles all the time; it doesn't invalidate their insurance.
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Old 05-27-2019, 03:53 AM   #36
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Don't understand why 30 amp is even available on anything above a 26' TT!
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Old 05-27-2019, 12:27 PM   #37
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Don't understand why 30 amp is even available on anything above a 26' TT!
I guess folks who keep them on a lot in the North or Canada don't need two AC's.
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Old 05-27-2019, 12:56 PM   #38
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The '17 29.3 (30 amp) we recently bought has a second rooftop unit installed in the bedroom and wired into the circuit breaker on its own 20 amp breaker. Of course, we can only run one unit at a time, which in this heat really taxes either one. Why the previous owner didn't run a separate line as long as he was making the modification escapes me.



Anyway, my plan is to disconnect the existing feed to the 20 amp breaker and run a dedicated 15/20 amp line so both units can be used when needed. That breaker would serve only the bedroom AC. The circuit breaker is under the bed, so I'm assuming I can run the romex through the floor and over to the utility compartment. Does anyone see any issues with this?


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Old 05-27-2019, 02:01 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by petcar View Post
I used a flanged inlet shown, in pic, thru side wall. Wired with romex to a duplex in galley. 20 amp at Supply Stanton at RV park has breaker. Peter

I used one of these same 'male' plug ends to add a secondary 15/20amp circuit from an outside power source... meaning that having another incoming power line, such as from the 15/20amp GFCI plug-in at campground or rv parks, gives me the ability to run a heater, or set of fans, or other device or appliance WITHOUT going thru my Main Breaker panel, otherwise providing not only more 'power', but also the ability to bypass tripping breakers when trying to use too much in the hot summer, or cold winter, months.

I suggest using a chase, hole, or otherwise similar place where you already have incoming wires, water lines, or coax cables into the coach. Usually every RV has many options for bringing in other lines... even thru slide room seals, or by installing simple 'cable hatch' outlets in your storage floor, etc.
If you design it the easy way, you really just want the ability to attach an extension cord between the 15/20amp outlet and your RV - you don't want to try to create a whole 'nother 'shore power cord' just for this situation.
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Old 05-27-2019, 02:17 PM   #40
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TurnerFam: Were you responding to petcar's post or mine? My thought was to isolate only the 20 amp breaker in the panel and use it only for the A/C unit. The feed would come from a source such as you and petcar mentioned, and it would have a separate power cord to connect to the campground 115V source. Is that feasible? Or is it better not to use the existing breaker?
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