Advice on powering the dash outlets on my new Axis

[DavidEM]

The two dash mounted cigarette lighter outlets have been dead from delivery of the coach. Shame on me and the dealer for not checking it during the PDI.

I have checked the wiring from the back side of the outlets. The blue/white wires from each y together at a connector and then to another connector where the blue/white wire disappears in the rats nest of wiring behind the dash.

I have disconnected the second connector and checked its terminals with a meter while the ignition was on- zero voltage.

I suspect (and Thor warranty support has been worthless with conflicting and moronic advice) that those outlets are powered from the fuse box inside the engine compartment. But it is near impossible to get to that box to check for a blown fuse. It would require unbolting the hood and possibly more to get to it. And if I did get access and find a blown fuse I would have to go through the whole drill if it ever blows again.

So what I plan to do is to run a new 10 gauge cable directly from the chassis battery terminals (fuse protected of course) to the outlets. This will mean that they will always be powered on as opposed to the original which presumably was ignition switched but I can live with that, actually I prefer it.

I will cut the existing blue/white cable and splice in the new 10 gauge. I will tape off the other end so that if power is ever restored by some miracle there won't be a chance of a short to ground.

Does anyone see a problem with this?

David

[16ACE27]

Works for me. I would just add that on my F53 MH those outlets are always powered and they do get power from the underhood fuse box so I suspect yours would as well.

[DavidEM]

Originally Posted by 16ACE27

Works for me. I would just add that on my F53 MH those outlets are always powered and they do get power from the underhood fuse box so I suspect yours would as well.

Ok, good to know. I had assumed that they were ignition switched like most car dash outlets.

This is a 2021 Ford E350 based stripped chassis. I hope your F53 is more accessible in the engine compartment. For example it will take two people to fill my Axis with oil- one above the hood holding a funnel and pouring oil in and another below aiming the funnel hose into the fill port. Not fun!

David

[Axis25.2]

Originally Posted by DavidEM

Ok, good to know. I had assumed that they were ignition switched like most car dash outlets.

This is a 2021 Ford E350 based stripped chassis. I hope your F53 is more accessible in the engine compartment. For example it will take two people to fill my Axis with oil- one above the hood holding a funnel and pouring oil in and another below aiming the funnel hose into the fill port. Not fun!

David

Just did an oil change on my axis and it was easy-peasy. Used a transmission funnel wedged under the windshield wipers and connected an approx. 4 foot clear tube into the oil fill hole. Added the Fumoto drain valve to the oil pan, swapped filters and I was done in 15 mins...

Took me longer to take the dog house cover off to add sound deadening and heat material. Another HUGE difference-maker in interior temp in front.

[DavidEM]

Hooked up the dead outlets today directly to the battery. The first pic below shows the dash with a dual USB/Voltmeter plugged in one of the outlets showing 12.7 volts, so it is working. I had a few surprises when doing this job. Read on for more details.

I had to take the whole front dash off which actually made it easier. I found that the Axxera radio that had been falling down (Lousy design for how it was mounted. I fixed it with epoxy) was probably contacting the live terminal of the inside outlet and probably blew the engine compartment fuse. But since getting to that fuse was a serious chore, I chose to wire the outlets direct to the battery.

The second pic shows a shot inside the engine compartment with the battery toward the front. One surprise was that the plywood was already cut out. It looked like it was done after building the coach, so maybe the dealer's guys took it off to fix something. I will have to fill in where the plywood was with insulating board of some kind. It isn't loud at all they way it is.

The red wire in the pic is from the two outlets and goes through a fuse and on to the positive terminal of the battery which is not visible in the pic. It wasn't possible to tie on to the negative battery terminal (it is a clamp on post design). So I decided to rely on the existing negative wires from the two outlets. They have to go to ground somewhere and that should be as good as my ground wire. I checked with a voltmeter first to confirm that they really did connect to ground.

Both outlets now have power from the new 10 gauge wire and 20 amp fuse which was what the Ford engine compartment fuse was. All works well now.

David

[Scubawise]

Originally Posted by Axis25.2

Just did an oil change on my axis and it was easy-peasy. Used a transmission funnel wedged under the windshield wipers and connected an approx. 4 foot clear tube into the oil fill hole. Added the Fumoto drain valve to the oil pan, swapped filters and I was done in 15 mins...

Took me longer to take the dog house cover off to add sound deadening and heat material. Another HUGE difference-maker in interior temp in front.

Good deal did dog house..Jim & Tracy's in billings does synthetic oil check brakes all fluids ac hoses for $100

[Scubawise]

Originally Posted by DavidEM

Hooked up the dead outlets today directly to the battery. The first pic below shows the dash with a dual USB/Voltmeter plugged in one of the outlets showing 12.7 volts, so it is working. I had a few surprises when doing this job. Read on for more details.

I had to take the whole front dash off which actually made it easier. I found that the Axxera radio that had been falling down (Lousy design for how it was mounted. I fixed it with epoxy) was probably contacting the live terminal of the inside outlet and probably blew the engine compartment fuse. But since getting to that fuse was a serious chore, I chose to wire the outlets direct to the battery.

The second pic shows a shot inside the engine compartment with the battery toward the front. One surprise was that the plywood was already cut out. It looked like it was done after building the coach, so maybe the dealer's guys took it off to fix something. I will have to fill in where the plywood was with insulating board of some kind. It isn't loud at all they way it is.

The red wire in the pic is from the two outlets and goes through a fuse and on to the positive terminal of the battery which is not visible in the pic. It wasn't possible to tie on to the negative battery terminal (it is a clamp on post design). So I decided to rely on the existing negative wires from the two outlets. They have to go to ground somewhere and that should be as good as my ground wire. I checked with a voltmeter first to confirm that they really did connect to ground.

Both outlets now have power from the new 10 gauge wire and 20 amp fuse which was what the Ford engine compartment fuse was. All works well now.

David

Our friend fill the dash battery hole with thin sheet metal 2 removable screen and sound heat Def material

[KFF]

How did you take off the dash?
I've been wanting to take mine off to get top access to the firewall so I can insulate it.

[DavidEM]

Well taking off the whole dash is an exaggeration. I only took off the part of the dash that houses the Axxera radio, the two cigarette outlets, some switches and the A/C controls. Let's call it the control panel. You can't get to much of the firewall from there. Also since this is a 2021 with the new Ford engine, it may be different from yours.

But in any case, I first removed the cover, which is above and forward of the control panel, is about 6" X 6" and can be seen in the pic above. Then if you reach inside and towards the front there are two nuts and washers on each side that hold the control panel in place. Loosen those about a 1/2" as they fit into a slot in the larger dash. Then look underneath and on each side, below the A/C controls are two nuts and washers that need to be removed.

With these removed the whole control panel I will move forward as far as the wiring will allow which isn't much. It is full of wiring for the radio, outlets and A/C controls. I couldn't see much of the firewall from there.

AFAIK, the larger dash could be removed by doing much the same- look for nuts and washers that hold the dash in place, mostly from the bottom. My guess is that the top of the dash fits into a slot in front near the window and all of the attaching nuts are along the bottom. But that is just a pure guess.

You are wanting to do this to add insulation. I will give you some real data by removing the top cover as above and shooting the wires and stuff with an IR gun and compare it with ambient inside temps. I really don't expect it to be all that much hotter. Admittedly we camp in the northeast where daytime highs are never above 80 where we camp (otherwise, we don't go) and I have never had to run the coach A/C underway.

David

[KFF]

Oh ok... Got it. Yea i had to do some work behind that area too. They never screwed in the axxera radio bracket in the back so it was bouncing all over the place when driving..
Thx for replying