After Market Levelers

[Ron]

I found that the Equalizer Jacks have the correct bolt pattern to bolt onto a Ford F53 chassis but the problem is that the fuel tank strap is covering one of the places where there is a set of holes in the rear. I have no idea why Ford would place bolt holes (presumably for some accessory) and then cover it with the fuel tank strap.

[FW28z]

Well a new transmitter battery seemed to help. But the transmitter is still pretty sensitive to where you stand around the outside of the rig. I am sure it all has to do with receiver placement.

[FW28z]

One thing the factory told me was that they used to put the front jacks further forward, but found with the Class C's they would get cracks along the cab/coach joint just aft of the cab doors.

So I would heed the recommendation as to where the factory recommends to place the jacks.

[Ron]

I found that the Equalizer Jacks have the correct bolt pattern to bolt onto a Ford F53 chassis but the problem is that the fuel tank strap is covering one of the places where there is a set of holes in the rear. I have no idea why Ford would place bolt holes (presumably for some accessory) and then cover it with the fuel tank strap.

[Ron]

Originally Posted by FW28z

So I would heed the recommendation as to where the factory recommends to place the jacks.

Equalizer suggested (at least on the class A coaches) to install the jacks as close to the axle as possible. It makes sense since that is where the frame is normally supported.

[elevinsp1@aol.com]

Thanks for the advise
I have it in the making if Thor doesn't cover it
Much appreciated.

[blw2]

i was thinking about this thread a good bit this weekend, as I sat in my campsite that was more out of level than I had boards to correct.

[FW28z]

Originally Posted by blw2

i was thinking about this thread a good bit this weekend, as I sat in my campsite that was more out of level than I had boards to correct.

In Florida?

I see a set of levelers in your future.

To make matters worse, Quadra/Bigfoot has a facility in Lakeland, Fl (4411 Holden Rd).

Not that I am pushing Bigfoot, but I am happy with mine, and they seem to be a premium brand.

[blw2]

oh, interesting!
They're right next door to the airport there. I'm hoping to get down there for sun n fun for a day or two in april. Might have to look them up before hand!

How many hours did they have you coach for teh install?

[FW28z]

Originally Posted by blw2

How many hours did they have you coach for teh install?

3 hours.

Had a 6am appointment, so we had to get up at 4am to make the hour drive.

[Ron]

Jacks are a nice accessory! Installing jacks is the first thing we did to our coach after purcahse. I ordered the jacks while on our first trip. I don't think we actually have had to have then yet but they do stabilize the coach while parked. I was concerned that without them, the refer would not be level enough to operate correctly, but as it turns out, the refer allows 6 degrees side to side and 4 degrees front to aft...that's quite a bit of lean!

[JamieGeek]

Do you know how much weight they added to the rig? I would imagine four hydraulic jacks + motor + reservoir is a hit against the GVWR of the rig.

[FW28z]

Quadra told me around 190lbs. But with a 14,500 GVWR on the E450, I am under max by around 2,500lbs or so.

When I bought the rig, the curb weight was 11,559lbs, but I figure I have added several hundred pounds of "improvements" since then. I have to be mindful of not overloading the rig over time.

But I don't see doing any more projects that would significantly add any weight. If so, my DW will just have to leave some stuff home (like that is going to happen).

...well there is always the toad's trunk.

I did buy a set of heavy duty sway bars - which should arrive today... and while they are heavier than the stock ones, I don't think it would add more than 20~40lbs more weight.

Some coaches though only have 1,000lbs or so to play with (GVWR - curb weight) so in those instances, it is probably prudent to look at weights prior to installing a set of lifts.

At any rate, 4 sets of 2x12s probably weigh 50lbs which I no longer need to carry, so that will offset the added weight a bit.

...I should get the rig weighed.

[FW28z]

This is mostly for JoeT, but also for anyone else that is interested.

I was a bit disappointed in the range the wireless transmitter would function for the levelers. It's not too bad, but there are some spots around the outside of the coach where it won't work. Mostly towards the rear.

I talked to the manufacturer, and they gave me the number of the engineer that designed the electronics, which actually is a different company.

I talked to the engineer at length, and he was pretty helpful.

The plan is to add some wire to the antenna as to make it longer. Since at 433Mhz, a 1/2 wavelength antenna is 13", he suggested adding wire to the antenna in 13" increments, which would provide the best chance of increasing range.

Of course, you don't want to go overboard and add too many 13" segments as you can make it worse.

I plan on running the wire up the inside of the driver's seat so it will remain hidden. True, there is a set of springs in there, but hopefully it won't be any worse than the wire antenna laying under the seat.

Normally the receiver is installed inside a cabinet or wall, but for my coach, they could not do it as that stuff is on a slide out, so they put it under the driver's seat.

Also he said that each transmitter is pre-programmed with one of 60,000 digital security codes, and when the system is initially setup, the receiver "learns" the code from the transmitter (you may have seen instructions how to do that on the back of the transmitter).

So if you ever replace the transmitter, you will have to re-learn the receiver. The good news though is you can have up to 3 transmitters - each with a different code - for the system.

At any rate, there is little chance that a different transmitter will interfere with the receiver. Since there are so many devices operating on 433MHz, I was a bit concerned about driving down the road and someone opening their garage door would lower my jacks.

He also told me how the system works is that when you depress the "wake" button on the transmitter, it sends the code to the receiver and activates it. Then the receiver will accept the commands for 5 minutes (I think also the code is sent during these actuations).

Then after 5 minutes after the last received signal from the transmitter, the receiver goes back into standby mode, and will not go into active mode again until the transmitter sends the wake-up signal.

Finally, the transmitter uses 23A batteries. They are typically used for garage door openers, but they are rare enough that I would recommend always carrying a set with you so that you can replace a battery if you need to without having to find one at a campground.

You should be able to find 23A batteries at Home Depot, Lowe's etc. or anyplace that sells garage door openers.

One issue I also found is that apparently these batteries are only date stamped for a 2yr shelf life, which seems unusual as they are Alkaline.

Of course, there is an emergency retract switch located in the pump, but in my case, I have to crawl under the coach to get to it (I will be soon moving the emergency switch to a more convenient place).

[blw2]

I'm always a fan of copper wire, and go hardwired whenever possible.
At work, they give everyone cordless keyboards and mice.... I was forever on the hunt for fresh batteries right at the moment I would be under the gun to get something out....
I asked for an old fashioned wired version, and have been using it for years now..... no connection problems, no batteries
Just my opinion..... but maybe it might be better to see about retrofitting a hardwired control.

[FW28z]

They used to sell a wired version for around $400 less, but everyone wanted the wireless version.

They still have a few panels that go to the older wired version, but they want $170 for one (which is supposed to be at their cost). There apparently is some electronics in the panel along with the switches.

I was thinking of hooking up the wired panel so that I could use either, but I don't want to end up paying $170 more to regress to a system that is $400 cheaper.

Or I could have initially spent $1,000 more for the automatic system, which is a wired system.

The wireless system is really not unreliable, and really kind of cool - it's just an unexpected short range.

[blw2]

I don't blame you for that!!
well I have faith that you will be able to figure out how to square it away in short order!

[Ron]

My Equalizer levels automatically. I just push the button and it does it's thing. I can go outside and watch it if I want to but it's pretty uneventful. This is what the bubble looks like after auto-leveling. According to my iPhone level...That's less than a degree off.

[blw2]

looks like it needs to be recalibrated

[Bruce]

Question on the Bigfoot EZ:

"The EZ design utilizes one pump assembly that operates the four jacks in pairs."

You can't control the jacks individually?

Bruce