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Old 01-19-2019, 03:03 PM   #21
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sure, IF your convection oven/microwave needs less than that to operate, and IF you are also not using other 120v items at the same time, and IF you don't operate it too long.

Any appliance or device which demands a lot of amps, like the oven, microwave, or electric heater, can quickly deplete the batteries.

what is 'too long'? the Battery levels will determine how long you can successfully run anything off of the Inverter - if the levels are at full charge, then you can certainly run it much longer than if your batteries are already depleted - most any Inverter has a built-in LBCO(low battery cut off), which automatically cuts off the Inverter should the battery level readings fall below a set number, such as 10.0, to save the batteries from further depletion.
If you have some solar and want to use it during good sun hours, then the incoming solar power will help offset the convection oven during it's run...
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Old 01-19-2019, 03:20 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by Ejohn2317 View Post
Is 1200 W enough to run the convection microwave for a short period of time? I have two 100 ah lead acid batteries . I love the idea of the built-in transfer switch seems to uncomplicate the whole system.
Well stated above by TurnerFam.

Here’s my talking points on this question:

#1...my HighPoint Convection Microwave oven is on a separate circuit. And I want to leave it that way. It’s 1500 watts on Convection, 1150 watts Grill, or 1000 watts on Microwave only. So currently, I am unable to use this appliance unless I’m on Shore Power or Genny

#2...there are already other items connected to my “standard outlet/receptacle” circuit, which is what my AIMs Inverter is connected to. Including the Refrigerator. So I always need to be aware of that, and can always move it to propane if I need all 1200 watts (2000 watts starting power) for a plug-in appliance

#3...if you have the lights or TV/DVD on you are already using house battery power. So need to be aware of that or the house batteries may not provide enough amps
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Old 01-19-2019, 05:11 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Ejohn2317 View Post
Is 1200 W enough to run the convection microwave for a short period of time? I have two 100 ah lead acid batteries . I love the idea of the built-in transfer switch seems to uncomplicate the whole system.
Well to answer you quesiton .... It "should" be enough. What Taylor and Turner said above is true - cant power everything.... you have to manage what you want to power.

BUT if your only using the microwave for like 2 - 5 minutes to heat up something you "should" be okay. You will have to wire yours differently since the mircowave is on its own curcuit. Not sure if I would do this.

I think on mine Axis the microwave plugs in above the sink and the DVD outlet is right next to it? The DVD out is on the inverter already since its a "regular receptial" So you could switch the plugs as needed?? If you only use the micro once in a while that should be fine.

I will have to test mine sometime so I can let you know if this works.

Also if YOU find the inverter wont power the microwave at FULL 1000 watt power, you can alway select like 80 or 90% power and add like 30 seconds to something your heating up?

I wouldnt use the micro to "cook anything" since it will drain your batteries quickly.
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Old 01-19-2019, 05:44 PM   #24
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Excellent information about the power management. My thinking is if I only needed the microwave for 2-3 minutes during a time Where I may not want to wake somebody up or it is outside of the generator use time.
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Old 01-21-2019, 05:25 PM   #25
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I love mine as well. Im running two 6 volt 220 amh AGM's in my Axis.

This youtube video above is the whole reason I with with this Aims inverter!!

I orginally was going to go with a small inverter (around 600 - 800 watt) and install in the cabinet above the sink so I could plug in the one TV and also my lap top / phones.

But the more I thought about it the more I liked this Aims wired in directly to the recepticals.

The Aims was a much cleaner install (Under the bed - hidden and not taking up valuable space), I can run both inside tv's plus like 4 outlets, no extention cord wires coming out of the cabinet to charge laptop (Like my other configuration would have had), plus it was cheaper than the smaller inverters I was looking at, and has a build in auto transfer switch - the list goes on.

It has been MORE than enough power for me. I dont use the microwave that much and I have NOT tried to hook it up to see if it would work.

I been using Gas on my frig. mostly but I might switch to inverter power only to see how it works in the spring. I want to install up my 12v battery gauge (next to the OEM Thor monitors) so I can watch the 12 v levels. But if your engine is running it should supply more than enough juice so your not draining them while driving down the road.

The surprising bonus for me was the frig receiptial is on the same curcuit as the rest of the non GFI outlets .... so I have a 3 way fridge now (without any additional wiring)! Just have to make sure you turn on the inverter to make it work - even if on gas only.

I also installed the remote switch at the entrance way. It has the one LED light that tells you what is going on and if an errors.
One question. I am planning on connecting to the batteries at the CONVERTER panel of the WFCO8955.

What size cable did everyone use to connect the battery(s) to the inverter?
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Old 01-21-2019, 06:24 PM   #26
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4 gauge.

I ordered my wires off of Amazon. I wanted high quality wires so I found "Windy City" had a kit....3 foot RED and 3 foot BLACK multi stranded copper wires with HD casing. I dont remember the price but it was great quaility wire - some of the best I have seen (I installed some mega stereo systems in a few cars back in the 80's / 90's).

I put my inverter near the fusebox..... so 3 foot was just right (Might of had a foot left over of each but better safe than sorry.)
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Old 01-21-2019, 07:27 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by Mo_Mike View Post
One question. I am planning on connecting to the batteries at the CONVERTER panel of the WFCO8955.

What size cable did everyone use to connect the battery(s) to the inverter?
Thor Motorcoach usually uses use a 6 ga wire from the battery bank to the power center - rated fro 50 amps. Most 1000 watt inverters recommend 4 ga leads for runs of less the 5 ft and 2 gauge is the run is 5 ft or more with a 150 amp fuse or CB. My coach came with a 1000 watt Xantrex pro XM and Thor Motorcoach used 2 ga wire from the battery bank back to the inverter under the bed (14 ft with a 150 amp CB).
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Old 01-21-2019, 09:27 PM   #28
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I just looked up my Amazon order.....It was 4 gauge but 5 foot lengths each for $17.81 (I think they offered 3 ft, 5, 10 etc.... precut red and black wires for stereos/solar setups).
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Old 01-21-2019, 11:28 PM   #29
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I just looked up my Amazon order.....It was 4 gauge but 5 foot lengths each for $17.81 (I think they offered 3 ft, 5, 10 etc.... precut red and black wires for stereos/solar setups).
Thank you for looking that up..

I was going to order 4 gauge, but glad to hear 5 foot was a good length.

And, I am assuming the POSITIVE cable goes to the POS on the fuse panel, and the NEGATIVE goes to CHASISS GROUND. But thought I would ask...

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Old 01-21-2019, 11:38 PM   #30
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I used 6g, 3’
4g is difficult in that tight area for the WFCO, but I realize that many used 4g

Realize that you’re only pulling 1000 watts max, and usually no more than 300 watts maximum at one time
Plus, the receptacle line is only 14g
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Old 01-22-2019, 12:52 AM   #31
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Thank you for looking that up..

I was going to order 4 gauge, but glad to hear 5 foot was a good length.

And, I am assuming the POSITIVE cable goes to the POS on the fuse panel, and the NEGATIVE goes to CHASISS GROUND. But thought I would ask...

Yep, the OEM converter has a spot to hook up the 4g positive port and right outside the fuse box you will see the negative buss bar. So pos wire was like 4 foot long and my ground like 2 foot.

Dont forget to install an 80 amp breaker (or was it 100?) on that positive wire as well.

I also hooked up a 10gauge chassis ground to the inverter body per instructions. This was much easier that it sounds. I was able to punch a small hole in the foam in the floor near the fuse box (this is where the generator AC line comes in along with some other stuff) and then the Generator chassis neg. ground was right there, just put an eye loop on the wire, use the same bolt that holds the Genny ground, scrap off some paint, install then repaint to prevent rust.
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Old 01-22-2019, 12:55 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by taylorbob1 View Post
I used 6g, 3’
4g is difficult in that tight area for the WFCO, but I realize that many used 4g

Realize that you’re only pulling 1000 watts max, and usually no more than 300 watts maximum at one time
Plus, the receptacle line is only 14g
Yep, unless I try to hook up my microwave.... most likely I will never exceed 500 watts at one time. Plus with the long run from the OEM fuse box back to the battery I figured im lucky to get 1000 watts (of my 1200 watt inverter) with the 4g wires. If you want max power you will have to run a thicker gauge all the way to the battery. It was not worth it IMO for what I need.
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Old 01-22-2019, 01:40 AM   #33
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Yep, the OEM converter has a spot to hook up the 4g positive port and right outside the fuse box you will see the negative buss bar. So pos wire was like 4 foot long and my ground like 2 foot.

Dont forget to install an 80 amp breaker (or was it 100?) on that positive wire as well.

I also hooked up a 10gauge chassis ground to the inverter body per instructions. This was much easier that it sounds. I was able to punch a small hole in the foam in the floor near the fuse box (this is where the generator AC line comes in along with some other stuff) and then the Generator chassis neg. ground was right there, just put an eye loop on the wire, use the same bolt that holds the Genny ground, scrap off some paint, install then repaint to prevent rust.
I am glad you mentioned the fuse/breaker. I know there is a breaker/disconnect on the battery in the battery compartment. So I need an additional fuse/breaker on the positive going into the inverter, correct?
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Old 01-22-2019, 04:08 AM   #34
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I am glad you mentioned the fuse/breaker. I know there is a breaker/disconnect on the battery in the battery compartment. So I need an additional fuse/breaker on the positive going into the inverter, correct?
Yes, the inverter manual will recomend the size (double check). Looks like I ordered the 150 amp resetable curcuit breaker.

You can see in one of the pictures where I added the 12v to the fuse box.
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Old 01-22-2019, 04:13 AM   #35
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Here a picture of the wimpy OEM 12v with my AGM 6v 220 amh.

OEM weight 46 #, Full River AGM = 73 # each. But they fit under the steps with zero mods.

Along with the extra outlet I added to my dinette. It has two usb ports.... much easier to use vs the OEM which was hidden in the back of the dinette. Plus it was just hanging loose..... only receptical was only held on by the fabric of the dinette..... crazy.
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Old 01-22-2019, 06:59 PM   #36
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Here a picture of the wimpy OEM 12v with my AGM 6v 220 amh.

OEM weight 46 #, Full River AGM = 73 # each. But they fit under the steps with zero mods.

Along with the extra outlet I added to my dinette. It has two usb ports.... much easier to use vs the OEM which was hidden in the back of the dinette. Plus it was just hanging loose..... only receptical was only held on by the fabric of the dinette..... crazy.
Thanks for all the pictures... They are extremely helpful. Always nice to see how someone else has solved their installations...

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Old 01-22-2019, 07:10 PM   #37
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Your welcome.

On the extra dinette outlet .... all I had to do was splice into the current romex (white) wire. Thor had plenty of slack to add an extra outlet. You can see where they converted from the flexable black wire to rigid romex wire. The booth is in a slide so they needed a flexable wire.
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Old 01-22-2019, 07:12 PM   #38
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Mo mike - What part of MO are in from?

If your not too far from Fayetteville AR area AND you need help with install I might be able to swing by (or visa versa - Im keep pretty busy so its hard to get away).
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Old 01-22-2019, 09:06 PM   #39
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Mo mike - What part of MO are in from?

If your not too far from Fayetteville AR area AND you need help with install I might be able to swing by (or visa versa - Im keep pretty busy so its hard to get away).
Not too far away from you up in Springfield, MO. I think I have got the idea (thanks to all your pictures), but thanks for the offer.

Definitely need to run into each other sometime. I have followed your blogs and your trips for a while now (and been EXTREMELY envious)

One more question, where did you end up installing your inverter remote?
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Old 01-22-2019, 09:59 PM   #40
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Ok, thats Cool..... Thanks.

Well not to many trips lately.... mostly day trips mountain biking around my area plus a couple of quick weekenders within 200 miles. But this year we hope to have some longer trips.

Im trying to get everything done now to the RV (when I have time) that way when we can get away on a longer trip the RV is in tip top shape. The more stuff I get done now the easier it will be for me to work out of my RV.

I have room under my bed (were my fuse box it at) so I mounted it on some plywood and attached side of this compartment.

Not sure what yours looks like but I have seen some owners remove the entire fuse box panel (which was in the hallway) and mount the inverter to the wall next to the fuse box. Looked like enough slack with the OEM wires so it was not a big deal. One was able to pull the drawers in the bedroom out and mount to the floor next to the fuse box (or something like that).

So your only like 2 hours from me. I might need to take a Mtn bike trip up your way.
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