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Old 07-21-2020, 04:37 PM   #21
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I added a dedicated 20A circuit to the center of my coach. I put a small breaker box with a 20a breaker and a 20A power inlet in a basement compartment feeding only the outlet. I use this for a space heater on cold days and my portable AC on very hot ones. If I ever add a second rooftop unit I will use this circuit.

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Old 07-21-2020, 08:13 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by halfprice View Post
I have every dog bone made. But when using a 30 and 20 amp outlet I found the voltage varied. So my go to set up is 50 amp dog bone to my two 30amp cables


Jerry
I'm fighting the same problem with the MH in my Sig. I've been trying many of the things mentioned in the big AC thread. I can maintain 81 in 93 degree weather out in open sun.
I have one 15K BTU and and the Delta T is 24 degrees.

I'd like to make one test and that is to drape a tarp over my front and side windows to get them out of the sun and see what difference that makes. If enough difference, I'll fork out the cash to make custom covers for the outside of the windows.

If that doesn't satisfy my need. I'll do like you did and add a second AC in the bedroom, probably a 13.5.

I liked the way that you set your spare AC up. That was a neat job. If it's cool, you don't even need to hook the other 30A cable up.
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Old 07-21-2020, 10:02 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Down South View Post
I'm fighting the same problem with the MH in my Sig. I've been trying many of the things mentioned in the big AC thread. I can maintain 81 in 93 degree weather out in open sun.
I have one 15K BTU and and the Delta T is 24 degrees.

I'd like to make one test and that is to drape a tarp over my front and side windows to get them out of the sun and see what difference that makes. If enough difference, I'll fork out the cash to make custom covers for the outside of the windows.

If that doesn't satisfy my need. I'll do like you did and add a second AC in the bedroom, probably a 13.5.

I liked the way that you set your spare AC up. That was a neat job. If it's cool, you don't even need to hook the other 30A cable up.
It cost me about $1000 to add the second ac. No labor cost because i did the install. Magne windshield shades are close to that price. Ill take the extra ac any day

With 2 ac units I can keep the inside any temp I want. We usually run the bedroom ac during the day when we're in the livingroom and livingroom ac at night when we're in the bedroom. Doing this really lowers the noise level where we are at and the mh is nice and cold

Jerry
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Old 07-22-2020, 12:46 AM   #24
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It cost me about $1000 to add the second ac. No labor cost because i did the install. Magne windshield shades are close to that price. Ill take the extra ac any day

With 2 ac units I can keep the inside any temp I want. We usually run the bedroom ac during the day when we're in the livingroom and livingroom ac at night when we're in the bedroom. Doing this really lowers the noise level where we are at and the mh is nice and cold

Jerry
I like your ideas. And I thought of one other thing. If my living room AC bites the dust, I'll still have another to get by until I can repair or replace the main unit.
Now I'm thinking of getting another 15K instead of a 13.5K. Also I'm thinking of getting one with heat strips.
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Old 07-22-2020, 03:41 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by Down South View Post
I like your ideas. And I thought of one other thing. If my living room AC bites the dust, I'll still have another to get by until I can repair or replace the main unit.
Now I'm thinking of getting another 15K instead of a 13.5K. Also I'm thinking of getting one with heat strips.
I added a second 15,000 btu unit to the bedroom in 2017.
One of the best mods. It can be 90 outside 69 inside and the two units will cycle unlike the one unit running all day.

If you do get the heater make sure you order the correct control box to allow that option .
I Also added the heater to the front unit and replaced the control box .

I would also suggest you getting a digital thermostat front and back unit ( optional)
Also when you run the wire for the rear unit pull a thermostat wire just in case you want to add a second Thermostat ilo the roof top controls.( I made that mistake)

The heaters will not heat the unit initially. But will maintain the rv once the propane furnace get the temperature up .
I have used them to about 20 degrees and they maintained the rv ilo the propane last year at thanksgiving.

More info and some pics can be found below.

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f121/ace...23543-101.html
Posting 1401
See also posting 1936
See also posting 1407 for a list of other great mods

Hope this helps
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Old 07-22-2020, 09:31 AM   #26
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Granted, a regular “plugin device” does not have a dedicated circuit breaker.
However, most plugin devices do not have up to a 15 amp draw at startup. Plus, the typical RV rooftop air conditioner is not designed to be a “plugin “ device although it is possible to use it that way.
I’d prefer some kind of electrical protection other than the campground pedestal circuit breaker.
Redone-dent breakers is a waist of time and money. Two is no more protection than one.
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Old 07-22-2020, 01:47 PM   #27
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For a non-ducted application the best 13.5k BTU RV AC unit with a heat strip is the Advent Air part # ACM135BCH which also comes with a start capacitor and the lower vent assembly/control panel so it's the only thing you'd need aside from running power to it.
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Old 07-22-2020, 02:38 PM   #28
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I’m looking at this one from RecPro.
https://www.recpro.com/rv-air-condit...mp-non-ducted/
Looks like it comes with everything including a remote control that is also the thermostat.
I’ve already replaced the thermostat for the existing AC unit with a digital one.
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Old 07-22-2020, 03:03 PM   #29
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Heat pump won’t work below 40 degrees
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Old 07-22-2020, 04:08 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by Hugh.vines@att.net View Post
Heat pump won’t work below 40 degrees
Not exactly accurate for Coleman mach 8 Plus. True the heat pump will not come on is the outside ambient is below freezing (this is because the heat pump dies not have a defrost cycle like a home heat pump), but mach 8 cuts over the the heat strip if the thermostat calls for heat mode 2. Mode one heat is the furnace.


As for the second A/C, I wanted a quiet Mach 8 plus for the bedroom (16 amps draw). When I bought my coach, 50 amp power center was not an option, so I planned to install one with the second A/C. Our first trip with 30 amps proved I did need 50 amps, as I couldn't even run the microwave (15 amps) water heater (11 amps), charger (2 amps) and DirecTV (3 amps) with out tripping the main CB. It took couple weeks to collect the parts: power cord, inlet, transfer switch, EMS, inverter, thermostat, power center and aux CB panel. Wiring was straight forward except for the 12 volt mess which to a day to wire correctly due to the interrupt relays and Rapid Camp circuit board. I ran the 12 awg and 20 awg wires up the Thor chase for the original bedroom fan and had a a local RV repair place install the heat pump, as it is to heavy for an 80 year old to wrestle with. The reason for a new inverter was a 30 amp pass-trough to allow three different 15 amp, 120 volt circuits on the inverter. This allows a 20 amp CAFCI circuit (I hate GFCI duplex outlets) for the kitchen, bathroom and outside duplex receptacles in the main CB panel. Now I can run basically everything in the coach at the same time and the EMS shows I have a balanced load of 35 amps on each leg and plenty of head room for more stuff.
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Old 07-22-2020, 04:19 PM   #31
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Heat pump won’t work below 40 degrees
I understand that a heat pump begins to loose efficiency below 40 degrees, but will continue to provide some heat until 30 degrees.
I would be using the heat function in early spring or late fall and only as a supplement to the propane furnace.
Here in Arkansas, we normally get freezing temps (if at all) only in December thru February.

I gave up winter camping years ago.


Thanks for the reply though.
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Old 07-22-2020, 07:34 PM   #32
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I have another idea on wiring up the second AC in the bedroom.
Instead of installing a second 30A twist lock receptacle on the MH. Could I install a 50A twist lock instead?
My thinking is to hook one leg of the 50A to the 30A for the RV and hook the new AC up to the other leg.
I would have to make sure the 30A for the RV is on the correct leg just in case I ever needed to hook up to a 50A to 30A dogbone.

This would save me the problem of having to hook up two 30A supply cords to a 50A to twin 30A dogbone.

The only problem that I see is the new AC in the bedroom would not have power if hooked up to a 30A pedestal. Which is fine since a 30A would not pull both AC’s anyway.
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Old 07-22-2020, 07:54 PM   #33
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I have another idea on wiring up the second AC in the bedroom.
Instead of installing a second 30A twist lock receptacle on the MH. Could I install a 50A twist lock instead?
My thinking is to hook one leg of the 50A to the 30A for the RV and hook the new AC up to the other leg.
I would have to make sure the 30A for the RV is on the correct leg just in case I ever needed to hook up to a 50A to 30A dogbone.

This would save me the problem of having to hook up two 30A supply cords to a 50A to twin 30A dogbone.

The only problem that I see is the new AC in the bedroom would not have power if hooked up to a 30A pedestal. Which is fine since a 30A would not pull both AC’s anyway.
Don't know if that would work but in theory I would say yes. I dont know how the neutral and ground would attch. I'm no electrian

If a park doesn't have 50amp they probably do have a 30 and 20. So your 50 amp way could only do the 30 as you said

The way I did it with two 30s at the mh I could run both cords and plug 1 into the 30 and the other into the 20 with a dogbone. Both ac working and I'm cool


Jerry
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Old 07-22-2020, 08:16 PM   #34
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It'll work, almost all 50amp RV's (99.99%) are wired this way.
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Old 12-01-2020, 11:39 PM   #35
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I bought my Coleman 13,000 on sale. Ran a 120 Rome’s on the inside of the roof panel to above the TV cabinet and then into the closet and down to the outside next to the furnace bay. Used a marine male outlet on the sidewall. I bought a 50A to 2 30A on eBay. Rum the main 30A off one and use a 30A to 20A spade plug adapter and run a regular 120V 12g extension cord to my marine male outlet. Works perfect. Coach now cools at 110 outside. May install a thermostat but I also may make a “stick” with grooves to rotate the ceiling knobs.
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Old 12-01-2020, 11:55 PM   #36
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I bought my Coleman 13,000 on sale. Ran a 120 Rome’s on the inside of the roof panel to above the TV cabinet and then into the closet and down to the outside next to the furnace bay. Used a marine male outlet on the sidewall. I bought a 50A to 2 30A on eBay. Rum the main 30A off one and use a 30A to 20A spade plug adapter and run a regular 120V 12g extension cord to my marine male outlet. Works perfect. Coach now cools at 110 outside. May install a thermostat but I also may make a “stick” with grooves to rotate the ceiling knobs.


Why didn’t you just buy a 50A to 30A and 20A adapter? I use mine sometimes to run my 30A coach and my 20A second AC if, for some reason I can’t use the 30 and 20A pedestal outlets. Also, I put a 20A circuit breaker on my second AC circuit so that when I’m using an adapter from the 50A outlet there still will be protection on the coach. Safety first!
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Old 12-02-2020, 12:04 AM   #37
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Why didn’t you just buy a 50A to 30A and 20A adapter? I use mine sometimes to run my 30A coach and my 20A second AC if, for some reason I can’t use the 30 and 20A pedestal outlets. Also, I put a 20A circuit breaker on my second AC circuit so that when I’m using an adapter from the 50A outlet there still will be protection on the coach. Safety first!
Why limit my options? The 50A circuit has a break in the pedestal. I don't see the need for a second in line circuit breaker.
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Old 12-02-2020, 12:26 AM   #38
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Yea=It has a 50a breaker for your 20a circuit. Things like this is why people who ALMOST know something are so dangerous and why there are so many electrical fires.

Bill
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Old 12-02-2020, 12:44 AM   #39
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Why limit my options? The 50A circuit has a break in the pedestal. I don't see the need for a second in line circuit breaker.


Well it’s because when you’re using your adapter the pedestal breaker won’t trip until you’re pulling more than 50A and the 14 or 12 ga Romex you used for your second AC needs to be limited to 15 or 20A respectively. It does not limit any options.
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Old 12-02-2020, 01:06 AM   #40
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Dangerous.

Ok I know something and I’m evidently dangerous. So explain to me your theory on circuit breakers and their purpose please, I’m intrigued.

Both of u guys, I’m waiting.
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