hurricane 27k mods needed

[petef]

This vessel is best when stopped. On the road and in between you have many mods to do.
1. fix the squeaky microwave. Take down the wood cover on top and look at how Thor mounted it> yes, a couple sheet rock screws not all the way in. Go get 4 1/2" x 1" lag bolts and also shim as needed to secure the top mount to the sides. you can reuse 2 of the Thor screws in the middle position of the mount. Also you need to remove the screws that go into the microwave from the bracket, replace them with hex head bolts, not put a layer of rubber, padding something between the frame and top of microwave and tighten these hex bolts down, Problem solved.
2. Before it floods on you.. fix the crap plumbing job Thor did. Take the panel off below the fridge and notice the electric junction box. You need to move this because it cause the sink hose to bind and come undone. Simply unscrew the wrong sheet metal mounting screws and move the box to the right away from then hose, then reinstall with wood screws. While you have this apart look to the connection point of the hose and see is the black "thing" it is connect to has a good angle. If not go under your sink, disassemble the connection and rotate 180 degrees, causing the end to be a normal angle for the drain hose. Now because Thor chose not to support this plumbing stick something under it, I used an old soap tray. You may have to go under the sink and remove the back panel to access all this. I also tied a string to the hose and back to the black pipe to keep it from coming undo, as these drain plumbing issues all over our floor are not cool.
In order to drive this beast you will need to do the CHF on front and rear and install a Blue Ox track bar. Absolutely get an alignment as soon as possible, most of the homes are not aligned right and cause severe tire wear as well as handling problems.
The front bunk comes with a cheap ass blow up bed that does not even fit. Save yourself the embarrassment and order a custom made mattress from foam n more Foam N' More And Upholstery, Michigan USA for $133 including cover. I got the luxury green foam 80 3/4 x 56 x 2" bit would advise getting 80 1/2 x 56 x 2" as mine was slightly to long, but fits like a glove, though you may need to hold up the bed frame when you pin it. Toss the included blow up crap in the trash. Also the trac rails need lube, so spray them down with garage door lube from Blast from time to time. I caused damage to my wallpaper because the deb came down at different angle as a few times until I figured it was a lube issue..
I have wind noise coming thru my windows, have not been to the dealer yet,, i suspect it is the weep holes though..

The second step needs to be removed, recut to the actual tread size and reinstalled. Idiots at Thor do not correctly measure these so most end up splitting at the outer edge because of the lack of support. and that second stair pull out box has no real thing stopping it from coming out either.
The pantry door, opposite the fridge pull out pantry...Mine was busted 75 feet from the dealer when I took a right hand turn into a gas station.. the pantry door next to the fridge came flying out. Now it is solved with a locking latch on that fridge pantry door. The factory ones are no good. My dealer installed a latch you have to manual move to unlock.

you still have plenty of wire to attach to supports to get them out of the way, "bumper" to install in many places and other things that need fixing,

[bruce bus]

Hi sorry to hear about your problems. I just purchased my 2015 Windsport 27k on 12/20/14 and found a lot of problems also. My fuel cap had a teather on it but no hole to put it in. The filler neck flange had one screw missing the hole pushing the neck over a inch lower.The fuel pipe was kinked on both ends. The ladder to the roof was all loose . The fresh water valve drain pipe had no hole to drain out of.making water come out of my furnnace. The access panel for the valve was not lined up right. My step drawer flies out also. water leaking out of the shower stall onto the bath room floor. water heater does not work on electric. Only gas. Steering wheel not lined up. Rapid camp remote missing. bracket for hooking dog lead missing from battery compartment. Other than that we love our wind sport. I traded in my 2015 axis because it was a piece of junk. So much for qualty control. P.S do I need to use a stricker to light the piolet on the oven ?

[petef]

I think you have to light the oven by hand have only used ours a couple times but that is how we did it. I just had the thor dealer fix the noise coming from the front windows, they put a thing in each weep hole, now it is so quiet when I drive. It is a must do mod if you have the windows with weep holes in them. I also had some anti rattle things put in the front windows also.

[bruce bus]

Hi where are the weep holes and where do you get the anti Rattles from.Thanks

[Nursx2]

i suspect it is the weep holes though..




Careful, my 34 J leaked so bad the first night I had it (I was still camping at the dealers) cause those weep holes were full of caulk from factory. Those new windows are designed to channel water inside the coach, down the channels, and out these weep holes - better to have wind noise than a wet, rotting floor.

[petef]

More info is here. It is not a plug, rather a modified insert to keep wind from hitting the weep hole. Maybe will keep it cleaner as well. According to the below thread The Thor part number is 0265522. I had them put in as part of warranty work. It made a huge difference in cabin noise. I am going to find some for the back kitchen and dinette windows.

RV.Net Open Roads Forum: what kind of weep hole covers do I need?

[petef]

The dealer got the anti rattle things from Thor as part of the warranty work also. They are clips that attach to the sides of the window frame to hold the window in place better when it is closed. Camping World did the work so I assume they can order the parts for anyone.

[Beacher]

Originally Posted by petef

The dealer got the anti rattle things from Thor as part of the warranty work also. They are clips that attach to the sides of the window frame to hold the window in place better when it is closed. Camping World did the work so I assume they can order the parts for anyone.

Do you have a part number for the "anti rattle things" from Thor? Maybe a picture to show them installed? Thanks!

[Beacher]

Originally Posted by petef

.... I caused damage to my wallpaper because the deb came down at different angle as a few times until I figured it was a lube issue.....

My 34e Hurricane only had two "big" warranty repair issues, (the "little" issues were a missing Thor brand jewel sticker at the door, and a bathroom vent motor replacement).

One "big" issue was the door step which sheared it's main sprocket bolt on the maiden voyage, our very first night, (at Fort Wilderness no less).

The other "big" thing was the front bunk. The Lippert/Shwintec motor and slide mechanism initially started coming down unevenly. I too thought it was simply a lubrication issue, however, when the worm gear metal parts fell out and tore up the right side aluminum rail there was more going on. The motors, worm gears, and rails were replaced on both sides under warranty, (as well as the right side support cable mechanism).

After the warranty repair I received very explicit instructions to always ONLY completely lower and raise the bed at every use. Never to partially raise or lower, and never to stop mid-way in either direction. So far it has worked flawlessly fine a few dozen times heeding these new instructional warnings.

I suspect that these unmentioned explicit instructions might have helped the original mechanism from binding up, and tearing itself apart in the first place.

[petef]

I do not have the part number, you can see them in this picture I hope.

I have only put the bunk down a couple times, I guess I should do it more while under warranty (G)!

[JamieGeek]

We have the same Lipper/Schwintec front bunk system on the Axis (and Vegas). So far, knock on wood, we've had no issues with it binding or hitting anything. Our dealer never instructed us to always lower it fully (in fact they really didn't say much at all about the bunk other than to show us the key lockout feature).
On the 24.1 the only way to lower the bunk fully is to extend the slide and recline the two front seats. Thus ours sometimes never gets fully lowered, in addition sometimes I'll drop it a foot or two to check on stuff thrown up there, take measurements, etc.

[streamcamper]

Originally Posted by Beacher

The other "big" thing was the front bunk. The Lippert/Shwintec motor and slide mechanism initially started coming down unevenly. I too thought it was simply a lubrication issue, however, when the worm gear metal parts fell out and tore up the right side aluminum rail there was more going on. The motors, worm gears, and rails were replaced on both sides under warranty, (as well as the right side support cable mechanism).

After the warranty repair I received very explicit instructions to always ONLY completely lower and raise the bed at every use. Never to partially raise or lower, and never to stop mid-way in either direction. So far it has worked flawlessly fine a few dozen times heeding these new instructional warnings.

I suspect that these unmentioned explicit instructions might have helped the original mechanism from binding up, and tearing itself apart in the first place.

Definitely do not stop the bunk mid way. Nothing good comes of that!!!

[Reddevil]

Originally Posted by petef

This vessel is best when stopped. On the road and in between you have many mods to do.
1. fix the squeaky microwave. Take down the wood cover on top and look at how Thor mounted it> yes, a couple sheet rock screws not all the way in. Go get 4 1/2" x 1" lag bolts and also shim as needed to secure the top mount to the sides. you can reuse 2 of the Thor screws in the middle position of the mount. Also you need to remove the screws that go into the microwave from the bracket, replace them with hex head bolts, not put a layer of rubber, padding something between the frame and top of microwave and tighten these hex bolts down, Problem solved.
2. Before it floods on you.. fix the crap plumbing job Thor did. Take the panel off below the fridge and notice the electric junction box. You need to move this because it cause the sink hose to bind and come undone. Simply unscrew the wrong sheet metal mounting screws and move the box to the right away from then hose, then reinstall with wood screws. While you have this apart look to the connection point of the hose and see is the black "thing" it is connect to has a good angle. If not go under your sink, disassemble the connection and rotate 180 degrees, causing the end to be a normal angle for the drain hose. Now because Thor chose not to support this plumbing stick something under it, I used an old soap tray. You may have to go under the sink and remove the back panel to access all this. I also tied a string to the hose and back to the black pipe to keep it from coming undo, as these drain plumbing issues all over our floor are not cool.
In order to drive this beast you will need to do the CHF on front and rear and install a Blue Ox track bar. Absolutely get an alignment as soon as possible, most of the homes are not aligned right and cause severe tire wear as well as handling problems.
The front bunk comes with a cheap ass blow up bed that does not even fit. Save yourself the embarrassment and order a custom made mattress from foam n more Foam N' More And Upholstery, Michigan USA for $133 including cover. I got the luxury green foam 80 3/4 x 56 x 2" bit would advise getting 80 1/2 x 56 x 2" as mine was slightly to long, but fits like a glove, though you may need to hold up the bed frame when you pin it. Toss the included blow up crap in the trash. Also the trac rails need lube, so spray them down with garage door lube from Blast from time to time. I caused damage to my wallpaper because the deb came down at different angle as a few times until I figured it was a lube issue..
I have wind noise coming thru my windows, have not been to the dealer yet,, i suspect it is the weep holes though..

The second step needs to be removed, recut to the actual tread size and reinstalled. Idiots at Thor do not correctly measure these so most end up splitting at the outer edge because of the lack of support. and that second stair pull out box has no real thing stopping it from coming out either.
The pantry door, opposite the fridge pull out pantry...Mine was busted 75 feet from the dealer when I took a right hand turn into a gas station.. the pantry door next to the fridge came flying out. Now it is solved with a locking latch on that fridge pantry door. The factory ones are no good. My dealer installed a latch you have to manual move to unlock.

you still have plenty of wire to attach to supports to get them out of the way, "bumper" to install in many places and other things that need fixing,

What is CHF you are talking about on steering?

[petef]

Change the sway bar links to the inside hole. On the front it is best to install Helwig adjustable links because need to be longer then the OE ones. Just adjust the Helwig to the correct length. Important to note you must use the OE bushing sleeve, not the whole bushing, they come out easy. This way you can use the factory bolts to reinstall. The bolts that come with the Heliwigs are slightly less diameter. I had a front end shop do this work for $60. The rear are simple and I those done when I had the rear track bar installed. You can change the front link holes without buying the Helwigs, but the sway bar will rub the spring when the tires are off the ground, ie, at a campsite with jacks down on unlevel area. See this for more detail, thanks to John McKinley Cheap Handling Fix - iRV2 Forums

Not that I do much but can drive 70 mph easy. Mostly going down big hills.. I have been blasted by gusts and driven in high winds in the desert