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Old 12-17-2018, 11:18 PM   #61
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AIMS Inverter follow up

Called AIMS today to inquire why they recommend the 4AWG wire size

The techs reason was twofold, minimize voltage drop and to avoid overheating of the chasiss receptacle wiring.
He also recommended to start the run at the battery bank and not the fuse panel. In my Vegas it is probably only about an 8 or 9 foot run to where I would mount the inverter the behind large drawer.

Think I will wait for some of our sparky's to give their real world opinions before I install my AIMS 1200!
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Old 12-18-2018, 12:04 AM   #62
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Originally Posted by MichFigs View Post
Called AIMS today to inquire why they recommend the 4AWG wire size

The techs reason was twofold, minimize voltage drop and to avoid overheating of the chasiss receptacle wiring.
He also recommended to start the run at the battery bank and not the fuse panel. In my Vegas it is probably only about an 8 or 9 foot run to where I would mount the inverter the behind large drawer.

Think I will wait for some of our sparky's to give their real world opinions before I install my AIMS 1200!
Well unless you think you will need all 1200 watts at once I dont think its a problem to install at the fuse panel and use the OEM wiring. Many have installed this exact inverter (Me included) without any issues. Plus it give you a clean installation.
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Old 12-18-2018, 01:49 AM   #63
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Originally Posted by MichFigs View Post
Called AIMS today to inquire why they recommend the 4AWG wire size

The techs reason was twofold, minimize voltage drop and to avoid overheating of the chasiss receptacle wiring.
He also recommended to start the run at the battery bank and not the fuse panel. In my Vegas it is probably only about an 8 or 9 foot run to where I would mount the inverter the behind large drawer.

Think I will wait for some of our sparky's to give their real world opinions before I install my AIMS 1200!
I wouldn't go through the fuse panel. If its like my ACE, the fuse panel is set up only for 40 amps of power. A 1200 watt inverter will draw something like 120 amps at full load, and 60 at half load. 600 watts isn't that much if you want to run a microwave or even a hair dryer on low.

In my inverter install, I have about 10 cable-feet between the batteries and the inverter location - the generator is between the battery compartment and the first compartment in which I can put the inverter. The chart I'm using from Windy Nation shows that I should use 2/0 cable, which is what I plan to use. I found a type of fuse that I'd never seen before that mounts on the positive battery terminal. I plan on a 200 amp fuse.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Everything I read says you should size the battery cable for no more than 2% voltage drop, or about 0.25 volts. The 2/0 cable has a resistance of 0.078 ohms per 1000 feet, so at 150 amps (I'm installing 1500 watts), 10 feet of cable is a 0.12 volt drop. I'm oversized, but with welding cable, the difference between 1/0 and 2/0 isn't that much.

P.S. My degree is actually Chem E, but I kept reminding my EE colleagues over the years, that a Chem E degree is actually hard. Also that one of the things we learned is that if it had enough voltage to hurt me it was their work. We had a sign in the Chem E office that listed all the things a Chem E knew, finishing with ....enough electricity to confuse himself.
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Old 12-18-2018, 03:45 AM   #64
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I guess its it really matters what you "expect" out of your inverter or plan on using it for.

I only have two 6v 220 amp hr batteries in my system..... So I feel like my system is built to scale for my needs.

I never planed on using the microwave or a hair dryer on my inverter so the OEM 12v wiring was fine for my demands.

I wonder what gauge wire the bigger coaches use with they run the 1800 + inverters? The fuse panel will only accept a 4g on mine so they must have a different panel? Never really thought about it.

Perhaps the 50 amp rigs have a much larger gauge 12v going to the fuse panel as well??
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Old 12-18-2018, 01:04 PM   #65
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Oh how I appreciate the good-natured folks in this forum, thank you DenverTransplant also Long & Winding Road for your input.

The Tech at AIMS did say the 2AWG would be better for less voltage drop on longer runs. On the new Progressive Dynamics 4655 converter, the DC board is only fused with 30 amp and there is not an additional terminal to run a positive wire from anyway. After having remeasured the run will only be about 6 feet or less from battery bank to where I can mount the inverter behind the cabinet.

This seems to be turning into a spring project for me as it is too here in Michigan to be crawling under the rig to route these new cables!
Surely we will find other fixes LOL. Not going to even mention (all the wiring issues) discovered when installing the 4655.
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Old 12-18-2018, 01:35 PM   #66
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Yep, just take your time and do it right the first time. And most importantly do it the way "you" want it done.

I just put the same converter in my Amazon Cart along with the "Surge Guard" hard wired surge protector (30 amp model). Im so afraid the OEM converter will fry my new house batteries so I been using a portable smart charger when in storage. But still when you hook up at home or the CG I dont want to worry about it.

I decided with all of my upgrades and the used of expensive electronics like iPads, iPhones, Mac books stuff I better take the surge protection seriously. PLus it will cut off the power to the RV it its too high or too low.... that is important on electronics, microwave, TV, A/C etc.

I have alway used a cheap surge protector on any 120 v supply (at home and camp ground) but this one does much more.
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Old 12-18-2018, 02:00 PM   #67
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Just so all know ... the Progressive Dynamics technician, a Marshall, Michigan based company (plug intended) told me that Amazon is not an authorized seller... so all those sales are third party. Any warranty issues could be a problem!

Their Tech support guy has been extremely helpful with my install and I would highly recommend purchasing through an authorized distributor (see their website for a list).
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Old 12-18-2018, 02:16 PM   #68
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Ok, thanks. Thats good to know. Might look for a dealer. Its so easy to purchase from Amazon I forget to look elsewhere.
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Old 12-18-2018, 02:51 PM   #69
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P.S. My degree is actually Chem E, but I kept reminding my EE colleagues over the years, that a Chem E degree is actually hard. Also that one of the things we learned is that if it had enough voltage to hurt me it was their work. We had a sign in the Chem E office that listed all the things a Chem E knew, finishing with ....enough electricity to confuse himself.
good one.
We weren't as nice in the college of ME. Used to say that to be an EE all you need to know is red is positive, black is negative...and to be a Civil E all you need to know is hot water on the left, cold water on the right, and "****" rolls down hill....but us Mechanicals had to know that and a whole lot more.
sadly, I guess Chem E's weren't on our radar....so I guess we didn't know it all
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Old 12-18-2018, 03:37 PM   #70
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good one.
We weren't as nice in the college of ME. Used to say that to be an EE all you need to know is red is positive, black is negative...and to be a Civil E all you need to know is hot water on the left, cold water on the right, and "****" rolls down hill....but us Mechanicals had to know that and a whole lot more.
sadly, I guess Chem E's weren't on our radar....so I guess we didn't know it all
and an ME just needs to know that the knee bone is attached to thigh bone...

We had a brilliant chief Mechanical Engineer who would give our lead EE grief about why he was oversizing the motors to drive the ME's compressors. The EE launched into a big description of power factor and how the input power didn't actually mean real work. He got the to part about "imaginary power" and you can guess where it went from there.
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Old 12-25-2018, 04:25 PM   #71
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Originally Posted by Long & Winding road View Post
Well unless you think you will need all 1200 watts at once I dont think its a problem to install at the fuse panel and use the OEM wiring. Many have installed this exact inverter (Me included) without any issues. Plus it give you a clean installation.
Are you using your AIMS 1200 to run your RV GAS/AC refrigerator on 120 while you are driving (letting the alternator charge the batteries)

I am trying not to use.propane while driving and wasn't sure the 1200 would be enough to run the fridge.
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Old 12-25-2018, 06:40 PM   #72
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Are you using your AIMS 1200 to run your RV GAS/AC refrigerator on 120 while you are driving (letting the alternator charge the batteries)

I am trying not to use.propane while driving and wasn't sure the 1200 would be enough to run the fridge.
My NORCOLD runs at 300 watts when on 120 volts (or 30 watts when on 12v using propane)

So my answer is “yes”, I like to run on Electric all the time
Which means that the inverter with auto transfer switch is always “on”

But just be aware of watts of other items running when not hooked to shore power or genny so as not to overload inverter.
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Old 12-26-2018, 12:57 PM   #73
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Was wondering where to splice that inverter into the receptacle line coming off the fuse box/circuit breaker.

Click image for larger version

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If you look at the attached picture there are actually another two lines coming off the 15 amp breaker. Does anyone know if these are all the same circuit? I have to assume that one of these powers the Norcold, I traced the one circuit to the rear TV and outlets third line may go to inside TV. Thinking that we may want to add breakers and separate these or is that defeating the purpose?
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Old 12-26-2018, 01:27 PM   #74
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Originally Posted by MichFigs View Post
Was wondering where to splice that inverter into the receptacle line coming off the fuse box/circuit breaker.

Attachment 14769
If you look at the attached picture there are actually another two lines coming off the 15 amp breaker. Does anyone know if these are all the same circuit? I have to assume that one of these powers the Norcold, I traced the one circuit to the rear TV and outlets third line may go to inside TV. Thinking that we may want to add breakers and separate these or is that defeating the purpose?

Not quite sure I'm seeing the same thing... Each breaker appears to have a single line leaving it... One goes to a Wago 221 splice connector that splits it in two - but you seem to be referencing a third line??
Typically the output of the breaker would go to 'AC In' on the inverter - and the wire currently connected to the breaker would go to 'AC Out' on the inverter - that assumes you want to power everything on the current circuit from the inverter.
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Old 12-26-2018, 02:12 PM   #75
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Originally Posted by Mo_Mike View Post
Are you using your AIMS 1200 to run your RV GAS/AC refrigerator on 120 while you are driving (letting the alternator charge the batteries)

I am trying to use.propane while driving and wasn't sure the 1200 would be enough to run the fridge.
I have only ran it for a short period of time on the inverter. I prefer to use propane but I might change my mind later.

I would think it would be Okay and your Alt would keep up. Its not like its a residental frig.

Plus Its just nice to have this option. Its like having a 3 way frig now.
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Old 12-26-2018, 02:14 PM   #76
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My NORCOLD runs at 300 watts when on 120 volts (or 30 watts when on 12v using propane)

So my answer is “yes”, I like to run on Electric all the time
Which means that the inverter with auto transfer switch is always “on”

But just be aware of watts of other items running when not hooked to shore power or genny so as not to overload inverter.
This is good to know. I didnt want to drain my battery on a long trip.
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Old 12-26-2018, 02:20 PM   #77
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Originally Posted by MichFigs View Post
Was wondering where to splice that inverter into the receptacle line coming off the fuse box/circuit breaker.
If you look at the attached picture there are actually another two lines coming off the 15 amp breaker. Does anyone know if these are all the same circuit? I have to assume that one of these powers the Norcold, I traced the one circuit to the rear TV and outlets third line may go to inside TV. Thinking that we may want to add breakers and separate these or is that defeating the purpose?
If I recall (without pulling the panel and tracing that second line which is spliced into the OUTLET breaker), i think it's the holding tank heating pads(correct me if I'm wrong)

The Norcold refer is a plug-in, into an outlet off of the OUTLET breaker.


Regarding adding breakers...
I don't believe that it's necessary for this 1200 watt inverter
You are watching TV (200 watts) + DVD player (50 watts), or plugging in something with small wattage.

I added a GFI outlet to the OUTLET line for the outside TV.
The outside TV outlet is behind the microwave on the wall in the 2018 24.1 model.
In my 2017 model that area under the cooktop has drawers. When I pulled those drawers, i had ez access to the outside TV outlet.
I pulled the plug and plugged it into my new GFI outlet that I created.
(I still have no DVD outlet for the outside TV when on inverter only)
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Old 12-26-2018, 02:23 PM   #78
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You are correct one feeds the Wago and then two wires coming off the of that connector. This is where we want to attach the inverter. Thanks gmc!
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Old 12-26-2018, 02:24 PM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MichFigs View Post
Was wondering where to splice that inverter into the receptacle line coming off the fuse box/circuit breaker.

Attachment 14769
If you look at the attached picture there are actually another two lines coming off the 15 amp breaker. Does anyone know if these are all the same circuit? I have to assume that one of these powers the Norcold, I traced the one circuit to the rear TV and outlets third line may go to inside TV. Thinking that we may want to add breakers and separate these or is that defeating the purpose?
OK, so the circuit breaker you want to use will run all of the outlets that you want to run off of your inverter right?

I picked the NON GFI circuit on my RV since it runs the two inside TVs (and the two outlets next to the TVs for DVD players) plus the outlet in my slide for the booth dinette.

But at first I didnt realize what was going on with this circuit and I could not get my Booth outlet to work. Then someone here pointed out they piggie backed two circuits on the one breaker. The normal white romex and a black flexable line (so the slide can go in a out without breaking the wires over time).

So I put put a junction box after my inverter and I hooked up this one black line (so its removed from the original spot now). Everything fuctions correctly with the inverter on or off (So on shore power it everything works fine without inverter on).

I hope this helps you.
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Old 12-26-2018, 02:27 PM   #80
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Originally Posted by taylorbob1 View Post
If I recall (without pulling the panel and tracing that second line which is spliced into the OUTLET breaker), i think it's the holding tank heating pads(correct me if I'm wrong)

...
Holding tank heating pads are 12V (at least on my coach), not 120VAC.
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