Axis/Vegas Mods...1,2,3 Go.

[Mo_Mike]

Are you running those separate it did you replace the two house batteries under the step? Been thinking of setting up an inverter on two separate batteries and leaving the original two batteries for 12v

[rvfigs]

Originally Posted by Mo_Mike

Are you running those separate it did you replace the two house batteries under the step? Been thinking of setting up an inverter on two separate batteries and leaving the original two batteries for 12v

I just replaced the two house batteries.

[croused]

did you sell your dinette?

[croused]

Can you share all your hard found measurements, about to take delivery of 2018 Vegas 24.1 and think I will come to the same conclusion as you did to prefer a dinette!

[rvfigs]

Originally Posted by croused

Can you share all your hard found measurements, about to take delivery of 2018 Vegas 24.1 and think I will come to the same conclusion as you did to prefer a dinette!

Camping World did all the work. It took forever. Not only did it take forever, but they screwed up. When I brought it back home, I fixed everything.

Honestly, it's not a complicated mod if you are handy. I would look into ordering all the parts. Have the parts delivered to your house and have a local carpenter complete the job. Or, you can do it yourself.

We prefer the dinette option because we are dinette folks. However, we mainly preferred the option for our children.

[GracieBoxer]

Originally Posted by TheTraveler

Just completed my replacement of the implement of torture that Thor calls a sleeper sofa with a RecPro ($799) dual recliner. The color is mahogany which blends very well with the side leather on the driver/passenger seats. Fit with about an 1.5 to spare on each side and reclines fully with no problem. I really like the firmness of these compared so some others I looked at which were too soft for my tastes. I was able to keep the table storage behind the seats, but had to move the table legs to be safe. Attaching them to the platform was the trickiest part. Had to get a flexible drill extension to attach metal straps to the chair frame and Axis platform. I was able to get some of the leatherette fabric from RecPro for $10/yard that I used to cover a baseboard I cut to trim out the bottom. Super comfy, excellent for snoozing, and really makes the living area so much more usable. Thanks Doc and all who have gone before me and were so helpful!

I'm doing the same with my 2014 vegas (tan in color) Im interested in what you did for securing the recliners to the floor. My chairs fit in the slide out. the slide out floor is which aprox 2" above the main floor.

[TheTraveler]

Originally Posted by GracieBoxer

I'm doing the same with my 2014 vegas (tan in color) Im interested in what you did for securing the recliners to the floor. My chairs fit in the slide out. the slide out floor is which aprox 2" above the main floor.

I used rolled metal strips (it comes in a role pre-punched with holes got it at the hardware store) and self-drilling wood screws with hex nut heads (allows you to use a socket rather than a screw driver bit). I made sure the screws would not be too long as to impede the slide out platform operation but long enough to go through the platform (say 1-1.25 "). I cut the metal strips so that they would wrap around the bottom of the chair frame bar and drove a screw through the strap into the floor platform. I put one strap on the front, back, and each side bars (total of 4). You're probably wondering how I could get into such a confined space to drive in the screw's. That's where the flexible drill attachment came in (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1). I could not have done it without. I wish I would have bought one of these year's ago. It's useful for soooo many projects. The chair's aren't going anywhere without the platform coming off. I figured the seatbelts will hold any passengers in place while driving.

I've seen where some folk's have actually used the seatbelts wrapped around the chair frames underneath to secure the chairs. Since I wanted to continue using the seatbelts for passengers, I didn't choose this approach.

Hope this helps.

[nautiquecowboy]

Originally Posted by groswald

I made a few improvements to the cabling in front too.

I reused the power outlet from the original surround and added a couple of modular plug-panels. One on the inside in the lower right corner has connections for the antenna/cable coax, the satellite HDMI connector, HDMI-2 in, and USB in.



The last two are connected to the other panel on the outside lower right corner of the cabinet.



The inner panel makes it easy to make the connections when installing the TV. The outer panel makes it trivial to connect an IPad, DVD player, or whatever without rooting around behind the TV.

In the bedroom the thieves left us with this nice mess. What’s really interesting is that the original mount was attached with two screws into one ¾ x 2” “stud”. All the other screws simply went into the paneling. I guess it’s structural. (not!)



We were faced with removing all of the cabinets and the bed structure to replace the destroyed paneling, or simply covering the hole. I was pretty sure that once removed nothing would ever go back in correctly, so we opted for the cosmetic fix.

I made a 24 x 13” plate of ¾” cabinet-grade cherry plywood. The edges were banded to make it look nice. I had to relocate the coax connection to accommodate the new mounting plate. The plate is screwed to three “studs” and is quite solid.



The “new” TV is a 28” Samsung. Actually, the new TV was nicer than what we had in our bedroom at home. Soooo, it ended up in the house and the older one was moved to the coach. It's still a bigger/better TV than the "San-who?-ee" that it replaced"!



Both the living room and bedroom TVs are on easy-to-remove mounts. They will be removed for storage from now on!

Very nice job I hate thiefs , so much trouble for you over such cheap TVs

[GracieBoxer]

Originally Posted by TheTraveler

I used rolled metal strips (it comes in a role pre-punched with holes got it at the hardware store) and self-drilling wood screws with hex nut heads (allows you to use a socket rather than a screw driver bit). I made sure the screws would not be too long as to impede the slide out platform operation but long enough to go through the platform (say 1-1.25 "). I cut the metal strips so that they would wrap around the bottom of the chair frame bar and drove a screw through the strap into the floor platform. I put one strap on the front, back, and each side bars (total of 4). You're probably wondering how I could get into such a confined space to drive in the screw's. That's where the flexible drill attachment came in (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1). I could not have done it without. I wish I would have bought one of these year's ago. It's useful for soooo many projects. The chair's aren't going anywhere without the platform coming off. I figured the seatbelts will hold any passengers in place while driving.

I've seen where some folk's have actually used the seatbelts wrapped around the chair frames underneath to secure the chairs. Since I wanted to continue using the seatbelts for passengers, I didn't choose this approach.

Hope this helps.

Thanks much. I just posted about this. LOL my cordless drill bit the dirt during this project. It was a 12 yr old dewalt. Ill get another with this flex bit.

[GracieBoxer]

helps a lot. I appreciate you sharing. I was thinking about going to the side wall not knowing what was under the floor. Now after seeing what youve done it does seem the best way.
thanks

[TexAxis]

Originally Posted by JamieGeek

So far I installed a home-brew sewer hose storage spot. The Axis doesn't really have a good spot for the sewer hose that drains and/or is outside and I didn't like the idea of just throwing a "freshly used hose" into one of the outside compartments.

Got the idea from a friend: Went to the home depot and got some plastic 4" fence post, sawed it down to fit under the chassis at the rear, painted it black, and screwed it to the frame a few feet in front of the hitch. Its only accessible from the passenger side as the generator blocks it on the other side.

Since you really can't see it unless you crawl underneath I just used an eyebolt with a nut it to secure the end. There is enough room under there to put two side-by-side for extra hose.

I'm planning to install a version of this sewer hose storage solution on our Axis this weekend.
Thanks for all the great pics & detail, JamieGeek.

[yonnyb]

A little help please!
I am looking at a 2015 24.2, I am a solo travler and would like to use the overhead bed full time. As such I would like to put a 6" mem foam matress there and leave it. I have looked at the sync problems listed here on the forum and I think I understand the issues. I would like some opinions to the following solution. moving the bed down about 4 inches and drilling a new pin locking hole in the track. that way I could move the bed up to the new pin hole and lock it in while driving thus taking the strain off the mechinism. when ready I would move the bed all they way to the bottom holding the switch for the recommended 2 secs to fully sync. any thoughts?
thanks Jon

[Baddad53]

Originally Posted by yonnyb

A little help please!
I am looking at a 2015 24.2, I am a solo travler and would like to use the overhead bed full time. As such I would like to put a 6" mem foam matress there and leave it. I have looked at the sync problems listed here on the forum and I think I understand the issues. I would like some opinions to the following solution. moving the bed down about 4 inches and drilling a new pin locking hole in the track. that way I could move the bed up to the new pin hole and lock it in while driving thus taking the strain off the mechinism. when ready I would move the bed all they way to the bottom holding the switch for the recommended 2 secs to fully sync. any thoughts?
thanks Jon

We use a better mattress and it does not to completely flush with the ceiling. No problem for us. Should work fine.

[JamieGeek]

The pins on our unit are just safeties--there is no tension on them at all.

We have a thick foam mattress for that bunk. I just take it down for travel (it's a trifold so I can remove it easily). When we are camping we leave the mattress in and only raise the bunk until the bedding hits the ceiling. In the evening I lower the bunk all the way to reset the timing.

So far, after 3 seasons, it is still rock solid.

[Oneilkeys]

Originally Posted by yonnyb

A little help please!
I am looking at a 2015 24.2, I am a solo travler and would like to use the overhead bed full time. As such I would like to put a 6" mem foam matress there and leave it. I have looked at the sync problems listed here on the forum and I think I understand the issues. I would like some opinions to the following solution. moving the bed down about 4 inches and drilling a new pin locking hole in the track. that way I could move the bed up to the new pin hole and lock it in while driving thus taking the strain off the mechinism. when ready I would move the bed all they way to the bottom holding the switch for the recommended 2 secs to fully sync. any thoughts?
thanks Jon

The problem with moving the bed down four inches and drilling new holes is that you need to sync the motors both up and down. So just drilling new holes will not stop the bed in a lower position and you should not stop it going up (or down) without allowing the motors to sync and shut down by themselves. I am sure there is a way to reset the system so that it will stop four inches lower, but I do not know how to do that. The people at Schwintek were very helpful when I called them and they could probably answer that question.

[TheTraveler]

Originally Posted by yonnyb

A little help please!
I am looking at a 2015 24.2, I am a solo travler and would like to use the overhead bed full time. As such I would like to put a 6" mem foam matress there and leave it. I have looked at the sync problems listed here on the forum and I think I understand the issues. I would like some opinions to the following solution. moving the bed down about 4 inches and drilling a new pin locking hole in the track. that way I could move the bed up to the new pin hole and lock it in while driving thus taking the strain off the mechinism. when ready I would move the bed all they way to the bottom holding the switch for the recommended 2 secs to fully sync. any thoughts?
thanks Jon

I also wanted to put a decent mattress on the overhead bed. I also wanted to store the ladder up there as well. Here's what I did (Thor Forums - View Single Post - Has anyone lowered the bed safty pins?)

I've been using this approach for a few months and it's worked with no problems. I haven't had any sync issues. I also no seen the bed slipping down at all even though I have the safety cables described in the link above in place just in case. Hope this helps.

[Marine By Choice]

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[upnyfolks]

Just completed a 400 mile round trip overnight excursion after I installed the front and rear anti sway bars, the front Sumo stops and had the front end aligned for the first time (tech said that it was out so far that he didn't know how I kept the thing on the road).
Our Axis 25.2 now handles extremely well, I was very relaxed while driving on Interstate 90 and had no problems with wander, or sway and the Sumo stops make a very noticeable difference in the lack of jarring thumps when hitting bumps on the highway.
I did also adjust the pressure in all the tires, the fronts had 80 lbs. and the rears only had 55 lbs. when I picked it up from the dealer. Fronts are now 74 lbs. and rears are 80lbs.

I also installed a new digital thermostat, a Coleman 83303362, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is a direct replacement for the stock thermostat in our unit (screw holes and wires are the same) Made a huge difference in temperature regulation in the coach (no more big temperature swings).

[yonnyb]

thanks to those who posted info for my overhead bed question!
jon

[TexAxis]

Quote:
Originally Posted by shawnpst1
I like the idea of storing the sewer line outside. Has anyone tried mounting a sewer line carrier, like Valterra's product, on the bumper?

Originally Posted by petew

That's how I did mine . Works great , very convenient to get to and when I wash the rig I generally pull the hose out and wash out the tube.

Petew, how did you attach this to your bumper? Did you drill a hole through the center of the brackets since the existing holes are spaced too wide? I'm trying to figure out a solution for the Axis.