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Old 09-26-2021, 09:38 PM   #1
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Thor Outlaw 38RE
State: West Virginia
Posts: 304
THOR #17154
Backup and side camera setup - need suggestions...

I'm going to buy a rear and side camera setup for my 2020 Cougar 26RBS. I'm considering Furrion and TADI. Neither (I'm told) will connect to my F250 dash setup or my Garmin 875.
The Tadi is less expensive. My new TT is prewired for the Furrion. Anyone have a reason I should get one over the other?

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2017 Thor Outlaw 38RE
Maysville, West (by God) Virginia
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Old 09-27-2021, 03:16 AM   #2
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Chateau 24F
State: Ohio
Posts: 831
THOR #16721
I had a 2017 Grand Design Imagine that was prewired for Furrion. At the time, Furrion wireless camera setups were something like $400+. ...AND they were no better than most for "loss of signal", poor reception etc.

Being the stubborn SOB that I am, I refused to be held hostage. So here's what I did... probably something you and most people would not choose, but:

First, I decided against wireless... too many reviews stated problems getting a clean signal from rear of trailer to dashboard of truck. Hard wired video completely eliminates this problem. I absolutely did NOT want to spend that much on a wireless camera and get fuzzy video!

So, with my mind set on a wired system - I bought a fairly cheap camera/monitor off Amazon... there are TONS of them. The wired systems are DIRT CHEAP compared to wireless!

For the video cable, I repurposed coax cable (RG59) I had removed from our house when we "cut the cord" with cable TV and went to OTA and internet streaming. It's VERY cheap at big box stores too if you need to buy it.

I bought two RCA to RG59 adapters off Amazon.

The toughest part was drilling a hole through the Furrion mount on the back of the trailer to the inside. I mounted a small plastic box to the inside wall over the hole. Then mounted the camera (screws & liberal Dicor) to the Furrion mount - threading the wiring through to the inside box.

The power wires were already at the mount, so I just pulled them through into the box. I wired an on/off toggle switch to the box cover. I used one of the RCA adapters to connect the cable to the camera RCA jack inside the box and closed it up.

I used plastic "cable cover" to run the cable down the wall to the floor where I drilled through the floor to get to the underside of the trailer. Again, generous amount of Dicor to seal it up after threading the cable to the trailer's underbelly.

From there I threaded/zip tied the cable through the frame to the hitch area. There I used a waterproof RG59 coupler. That was it for the trailer.

For the truck (Ford F-150), I started at the hitch and threaded/zip tied the cable under the truck up to the firewall. I found a rubber boot with wiring ran through that I could squeeze the cable through. Inside the truck I used the second RCA/RG59 adapter. For power to the monitor, I found a switched circuit in the truck's fuse panel.

The monitor had a thin combo video/power cable which could be unplugged when not in use. A suction cup mount on the dash, and I was done!

This was a fair amount of work... but it worked FLAWLESSLY with crystal clear video and NO interference! It was simple to disconnect at the hitch (used a waterproof RG59 coupler). I simply stuck the monitor in the truck console and tucked any wires out of sight when not towing.
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