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Old 05-18-2018, 09:15 PM   #61
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THOR #11525
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Originally Posted by dcbenny View Post
Had mine done by a heavy duty truck shop that also did my front end alignment if you haven't gotten a front end alignment get that done ASAP
Mine is a new unit(less than 2k miles). Would it be safe to assume my alignment is good or should I have that checked before installing the steering control or the CHF?
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Old 05-18-2018, 10:20 PM   #62
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THOR #5326
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Originally Posted by Bob.Squires View Post
Mine is a new unit(less than 2k miles). Would it be safe to assume my alignment is good or should I have that checked before installing the steering control or the CHF?
need to get it checked if you look at the Thor manual they say to get an alignment the alignment is done by ford before the build what a difference it made with mine when I first got it

I did steering control first (before i read all the post), alignment and than CHF with about a month in between each so i could see the difference at the end all 3 were worth it. Front wheel alignment was 200.00 but at end it was about 400.00 as i had them do a tire rotation as the 2 front tires were showing a little wear on the edges anf all 6 tires high speed balancing the CHF they charged me 125.00
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Old 05-18-2018, 10:34 PM   #63
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I agree with the front end alignment suggestion. It may not be needed but you will never know for sure unless you take it in to get it done. I would suggest that you request the shop to go to the higher end of the tolerance for the alignment. I.E. on my F53 chassis the tolerance is 0 + or - 1/32 inch. I would request the + 1/32 setting as a minimum and maybe go 1/16. As for the CHF, absolutely have it done or do it yourself. Some people have mentioned they called a mobile RV repair person who was willing to come to their location and do it. Sounds like a good solution to me as that person would have all the tools, equipment, and experience to do it. Being somewhat familiar with the Waco area I'd think that there would be a few of those types around there. The steering stabilizer is also a good idea. It helped my rig and the CHF did also. Hope this is helpful. I am sure you will get much more good, and perhaps better advice on this forum.
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Old 06-25-2018, 03:25 AM   #64
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Originally Posted by USTraveler View Post
I agree with the front end alignment suggestion. It may not be needed but you will never know for sure unless you take it in to get it done. I would suggest that you request the shop to go to the higher end of the tolerance for the alignment. I.E. on my F53 chassis the tolerance is 0 + or - 1/32 inch. I would request the + 1/32 setting as a minimum and maybe go 1/16. As for the CHF, absolutely have it done or do it yourself. Some people have mentioned they called a mobile RV repair person who was willing to come to their location and do it. Sounds like a good solution to me as that person would have all the tools, equipment, and experience to do it. Being somewhat familiar with the Waco area I'd think that there would be a few of those types around there. The steering stabilizer is also a good idea. It helped my rig and the CHF did also. Hope this is helpful. I am sure you will get much more good, and perhaps better advice on this forum.
I had our 17 Challenger 37 TB Aligned a couple of weeks ago, tech said it was off quite a bit. Made a huge difference in the amount if wandering ! It will track right down the center of the lane. Still plan to add Steering Stabilizer, if for only the Blow Out Safety Factor, andmabe the the Cheap Handling Fix.
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Old 07-15-2018, 12:11 AM   #65
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THOR #10574
Cheap Handling Fix (CHF)

I performed the CHF today on the front of my rv in the driveway. I opted to purchase an electric (plug in) impact driver. It was about $120, but something I had been wanting for a long time. Game changer.

The bolts were so tight I could not get them off by hand. For others, here was my basic process on my 2018 Thor ace 30.2.

1. Parked the rv on level ground, no jacks or lifts
2. Rolled underneath with a 15mm wrench and a 17mm socket on my impact driver
3. Impact driver easily got the bolts out, used a hammer to lightly get the bolt fully out
4. I was able to manually lift the sway bars straight up about 4Ē to get them to align to the tie rods. Others have used a bottle jack to lift it.
5. The tie rod holes and the rear sway bar holes lined perfectly. Used the impact driver to tighten back down

This whole process took 20 minutes. The difference is indescribable! But let me try
- massively reduced sway and wobble on cornering
- bumps and bad roads donít cause rv to misdirect all over the place
- General handling is improved across the board. I was using one hand to steer at 70mph
- passing semis effect the rv handling dramatically less

Heading out for a few thousand miles next week. Canít wait!
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Old 07-15-2018, 12:30 AM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ferf View Post
I performed the CHF today on the front of my rv in the driveway. I opted to purchase an electric (plug in) impact driver. It was about $120, but something I had been wanting for a long time. Game changer.

The bolts were so tight I could not get them off by hand. For others, here was my basic process on my 2018 Thor ace 30.2.

1. Parked the rv on level ground, no jacks or lifts
2. Rolled underneath with a 15mm wrench and a 17mm socket on my impact driver
3. Impact driver easily got the bolts out, used a hammer to lightly get the bolt fully out
4. I was able to manually lift the sway bars straight up about 4Ē to get them to align to the tie rods. Others have used a bottle jack to lift it.
5. The tie rod holes and the rear sway bar holes lined perfectly. Used the impact driver to tighten back down

This whole process took 20 minutes. The difference is indescribable! But let me try
- massively reduced sway and wobble on cornering
- bumps and bad roads donít cause rv to misdirect all over the place
- General handling is improved across the board. I was using one hand to steer at 70mph
- passing semis effect the rv handling dramatically less

Heading out for a few thousand miles next week. Canít wait!
You should use blue loctite on the bolts and torque to 66 ft lbs.

Now to the rear chf

Jerry
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Old 07-15-2018, 01:18 AM   #67
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THOR #10574
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Originally Posted by halfprice View Post
You should use blue loctite on the bolts and torque to 66 ft lbs.

Now to the rear chf

Jerry


I have read a number of people who have done the rear chf and didnít think there was as much benefit. I just figured it was because they donít spend much time back there while theyíre driving to see how bad it is

Anyone notice a meaningful difference with the rear chf? I am more inclined to add the bigger rear sway bar and torque rods, but need to read up more.
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Old 07-15-2018, 01:22 AM   #68
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THOR #3156
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Originally Posted by Ferf View Post
I have read a number of people who have done the rear chf and didnít think there was as much benefit. I just figured it was because they donít spend much time back there while theyíre driving to see how bad it is

Anyone notice a meaningful difference with the rear chf? I am more inclined to add the bigger rear sway bar and torque rods, but need to read up more.
Before spending the money on after market sway bar do the free chf first.

If you dont think it did anything then you could buy the after market bar

Jerry
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Old 07-15-2018, 02:58 AM   #69
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From looking at it, it seems pretty much the same as the front chf - with the exception of the secondary bracket. Is that just reversed in the holes?
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Old 07-15-2018, 03:45 AM   #70
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Please find the attachment for you review, I did exactly what you had talked about what an improvement.
Later because I tow a truck I will add a track bar in the rear for more stability.

Good luck
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Old 07-15-2018, 04:08 AM   #71
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THOR #6826
Does anyone know if Ford, Thor or any of the other MH manufacturers has an ďofficialĒ position on doing the CHF? It looks simple enough but Iím pretty happy with how my coach handles stock and just havenít been motivated to try it . Just curious.
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Old 07-15-2018, 04:47 AM   #72
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Pete

The adjustment I made in the pictures took me about an 1 hour using a floor jack.
It took care excess motion when other vehicle pass you plus excess tilt during turns.
The front help reduce the Bob or bounce.
It sounds like your happy with how your couch handles based on your comment above, if however you want cheap this is like beer cheap and only cost is your time.
I have friends that have spent upwards of 7k and the RVs drive like a dream.
You choose

Good luck
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Old 07-15-2018, 04:59 AM   #73
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Originally Posted by Ferf View Post
From looking at it, it seems pretty much the same as the front chf - with the exception of the secondary bracket. Is that just reversed in the holes?
Yes just reverse them, blue loctite and torque them to 66 ft lbs
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Old 07-15-2018, 05:19 AM   #74
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THOR #11321
After having our Challenger 37 TB Aligned, I think I'm going to hold off on the CHF, as most, ifnot all the Wandering is gone. Tracks Hands off Straight now.
Anyone else notice pickups, vans, especially Sprinter type, and even some cars, push me more than Trucks do! Maybe years of driving any piece of junk, and a brief career as an over the road truck driver, taught me to expect a push from BIG TRUCKS, and steer accordingly
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Old 07-15-2018, 05:51 AM   #75
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You are just to funny. I've enjoyed the conversation plus all the comments from others.
I did the CHF plus the alignment as well and resolve almost all the problems.
Where others like I said have spent thousands.
Good travels my friend.
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Old 07-15-2018, 12:49 PM   #76
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State: Arkansas
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THOR #5754
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ferf View Post
I performed the CHF today on the front of my rv in the driveway. I opted to purchase an electric (plug in) impact driver. It was about $120, but something I had been wanting for a long time. Game changer.

The bolts were so tight I could not get them off by hand. For others, here was my basic process on my 2018 Thor ace 30.2.

1. Parked the rv on level ground, no jacks or lifts
2. Rolled underneath with a 15mm wrench and a 17mm socket on my impact driver
3. Impact driver easily got the bolts out, used a hammer to lightly get the bolt fully out
4. I was able to manually lift the sway bars straight up about 4Ē to get them to align to the tie rods. Others have used a bottle jack to lift it.
5. The tie rod holes and the rear sway bar holes lined perfectly. Used the impact driver to tighten back down

This whole process took 20 minutes. The difference is indescribable! But let me try
- massively reduced sway and wobble on cornering
- bumps and bad roads donít cause rv to misdirect all over the place
- General handling is improved across the board. I was using one hand to steer at 70mph
- passing semis effect the rv handling dramatically less

Heading out for a few thousand miles next week. Canít wait!


Follow up to Jerryís comment regarding rear CHF, and your asking if this made a difference. There was a noticeable and positive difference when I completed both front and rear CHF on our Miramar. I also followed Jerryís step to use loctite and torque 65.

Ken
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Old 07-15-2018, 03:59 PM   #77
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THOR #9611
Over about 5000 miles and a 1 year time frame I made changes to my undercarriage incrementally so I could tell if what I did affected the performance. The 1st thing I did was the rear CHF and yes it made a noticeable difference. 2nd was the steering stabilizer and yes it made a noticeable difference. Third was a rear track bar and yes it made a noticeable difference. Fourth and final was the front CHF and again yes it made a noticeable difference. Now after about an additional 7000 miles I found I can cruise the interstate at my preferred speed of between 65 to 70 mph feeling pretty relaxed. Still some push from some trucks but most I don't feel anything. Bad roads still result it swaying, rolling, etc and I am thinking of going with either Koni shocks or Sumo springs on the front but over all I am happy with the handling and may just keep it as it is. Hope this helps.
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Old 07-15-2018, 04:53 PM   #78
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THOR #3156
Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxjr758 View Post
After having our Challenger 37 TB Aligned, I think I'm going to hold off on the CHF, as most, ifnot all the Wandering is gone. Tracks Hands off Straight now.
Anyone else notice pickups, vans, especially Sprinter type, and even some cars, push me more than Trucks do! Maybe years of driving any piece of junk, and a brief career as an over the road truck driver, taught me to expect a push from BIG TRUCKS, and steer accordingly
A rear track bar will stop almost all the push you get from passing trucks. At least it stopped mine.

Jerry
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Old 07-30-2018, 02:24 AM   #79
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THOR #10574
Just got back from a 1,500 mile trip to see some friends in Florida. Before leaving I had done the CHF on the front of my 30.2 ACE. All I can say is wow, what a difference!

I had ordered the steering stabilizer and am planning on doing the rear CHF, but if it got no better than it is right now - I would be so happy. I could set the cruise control to 70mph and drive with one hand in a relaxed position. Canít wait to do the rest of my updates and see if it makes a bigger improvement.

My wife drove a stretch as well and commented the difference was amazing too.
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Old 07-30-2018, 03:50 AM   #80
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I agree with the CHF. Now I know it made such a difference Im now interested in a track bar for the rear.
Has anyone installed a track bar and did it make a difference while towing
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