CHF F53 Ford

[Pete'sMH]

The plates work a treat. May not be essential but certainly makes the geometry better and the procedure easier to perform. Several forum folks have made them but at least one guy was busted by the forum administrator for using the forum “for business purposes” and doesn’t do it anymore. You can buy adjustable replacement links online that work just as well.

[Lt Keefer]

So that would be a less expensive handling fix rather than a cheap handling fix.

[Pete'sMH]

Well it’d at least be a “not very expensive handling fix”. Cheap isn’t everything!

[halfprice]

Originally Posted by 16ACE27

Not always true. In some chassis you physically can not connect the OEM rod to the second hole; you either need a longer rod or, as some have done, install plates on the frame to move the connection point.

I've never heard of or seen where the links would not connect to the bar. Yes some people had problems connecting making it more difficult but it did get done.

Pic of my plates. The metal bar cost $25, I gave my buddy $20 to weld them together, the 2 additional flange bolts and flange nuts (total of 4 sets. Two on each side) were $10. So for $55 my chf was done and the sway bar is almost level.

Second pic is the diagram to make the plates if someone wants to do it.

BUT use two 4" plates not 3 and overlap 1/2" this diagram was made by someone who extended the links so the plates are smaller for his coach

Jerry

[Down South]

I'll be doing the CHF to my Thor soon.

[mearl.davis@gmail.com]

I have a Roadmaster sway bar and it seems that the ends are shorter than the factory Sway bar I made my own plates but have not had dry weather to do the chf any body had this problem.

[MJC62]

Originally Posted by mearl.davis@gmail.com

I have a Roadmaster sway bar and it seems that the ends are shorter than the factory Sway bar I made my own plates but have not had dry weather to do the chf any body had this problem.

I have a question why would you feel the need to do the Cheap Handling Fix on the heavier Roadmaster aftermarket bar? The CHF is done on a smaller diameter, 1 1/2" factory sway bar to stiffen it up. The Roadmaster after market bar is 1 3/4" in diameter it probably doesn't need to be any stiffer. You or a previous owner spent the money already to upgrade to a heavier bar the CHF may make the coach too stiff at this point.
The Cheap Handling Fix equates to improving handling without laying out any cash for upgraded parts. Your coach has the upgraded part I would let the aftermarket part do it's job that's why it was installed. My .02

[halfprice]

And the roadmaster sway bar doesn't have two holes, at least I haven't seen one, so the contact point would not change

[Pete'sMH]

That’s interesting. In addition to its larger diameter it also has the shorter lever arms equivalent to the CHF. I’d wondered about that as I’d never heard anyone say they’d done the CHF and then traded out for the Roadmaster. Wondered how hw two options differed. I’m guessing the aftermarket is a whole new level of sway control.

[MJC62]

Originally Posted by Pete'sMH

I’m guessing the aftermarket is a whole new level of sway control.

Exactly! if the new bar has the same angles as CHF and a 1/4" more diameter I would think it is an even bigger improvement in handling over factory bar with CHF

[Pete'sMH]

At some point though, enough is enough. I’d really like to hear from someone who has done the CHF and later switched to the Roadmaster to see if it’s worth all that money and trouble for an incremental gain.

[mearl.davis@gmail.com]

Thank for the input, I got CW to install when I bought the coach I have the safety plus,sumo springs on front and tenbren on the rear should the CHF on the rear still be an option.

[Keith Goins]

I just did the CHF on my 2018 Thor ACE and couldn't believe the difference. Took me maybe an hour to do both front and rear.

[halfprice]

Originally Posted by Keith Goins

I just did the CHF on my 2018 Thor ACE and couldn't believe the difference. Took me maybe an hour to do both front and rear.

Keith
Did you have any problems getting the rear z bar off the sway bay. On newer mh the z bar is pressed in and a few people were not able to get it off

Jerry

[Keith Goins]

Originally Posted by halfprice

Keith
Did you have any problems getting the rear z bar off the sway bay. On newer mh the z bar is pressed in and a few people were not able to get it off

Jerry

Jerry
No problems.. Just a couple of light taps with the end of my 1/2 inch drive ratchet and it came right out

[halfprice]

Originally Posted by Keith Goins

Jerry

No problems.. Just a couple of light taps with the end of my 1/2 inch drive ratchet and it came right out

Same with mine but newer model are not so lucky

[Keith Goins]

Originally Posted by halfprice

Same with mine but newer model are not so lucky

What year is yours? Mine is a 2018

[halfprice]

Originally Posted by Keith Goins

What year is yours? Mine is a 2018

2017 thor on 2016 ford chassis

[Down South]

Originally Posted by halfprice

Keith
Did you have any problems getting the rear z bar off the sway bay. On newer mh the z bar is pressed in and a few people were not able to get it off

Jerry

I did the rear on mine today and it was a pain. both of the bolts in the lower Z bar were seized in the bushings. A spray with penetrating oil and a few wacks with a hammer and I got them loose.
The upper bolts were seized in the bushings too. I had to loosen the bolts in the sway bar links and give them the same treatment with penetrating oil and a hammer before they freed up.

I found two bolts on the passenger side of the rear sway bar "Z bar" were loose.
I put everything back to together using blue loctite torquing at 66 ft lbs.

[Jimbo56]

Wow, an hour. With the proper tools it took me 2 1/2 due to rear bushing. Make sure you crawl underneath with a pty bar and sledge hammer.