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Old 12-03-2019, 12:58 PM   #81
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Originally Posted by abjbrtd View Post
When Ford build a F53 that don't know who will buy it or what will be built on it.
Could be a 10k box truck or 15+k mh.
and... the Largest RV Mfgs like Thor Industries, Winnebago etc. who know what they are buying them for; and will have very elaborated mfg processes, but they they don't take the time to do this really simple step to add marketing feature such as "F53 Enhanced Stabilized Chassis"?

I am not questioning you; but just feel like something is missing. This CHF has been around too long and it is too good from all fronts. Couldn't cost Thor more than $20 bucks more to add.

In my really unintelligent view, If all is true then manufacturers are willfully sending out a product with known safety issues and rely on the consumer to fix after the fact. Possibly because of concerns with the impacts on RV service centers who do this work for customers that can't, or do not wish to do themselves.

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Old 12-03-2019, 01:29 PM   #82
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Originally Posted by dkoldman View Post
As I read all of the reviews and recommendations about the benefit of CHF, and given its simplicity, why don't Ford make the chassis already installed in the alternate holes?

I mean isn't this viewed as a safety issue by RV owners? Just from reading, you would think National Highway Transportation & Ford would issue a recall?

I intend to install the Safe T Plus, but reluctant to make the CHF change out of fear that it may void a Ford warranty on brand new 2019 unit. I just drove my unit 1500 miles and it was okay. It could have been better, but my fear was mainly poor roads in Florida / Georgia that were not level with the shoulders. Any wandering to the right and it very scary trying to correct overcoming.

Beyond my question above. Would it prudent / viable for one to do just do the Safe T Plus and see how that does?
That's what I did on my Miramar... Just the Safe-T-Plus. I'm happy with the handling now especially on uneven surfaces and cross winds.
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Old 12-03-2019, 01:38 PM   #83
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Originally Posted by dkoldman View Post
and... the Largest RV Mfgs like Thor Industries, Winnebago etc. who know what they are buying them for; and will have very elaborated mfg processes, but they they don't take the time to do this really simple step to add marketing feature such as "F53 Enhanced Stabilized Chassis"?

I am not questioning you; but just feel like something is missing. This CHF has been around too long and it is too good from all fronts. Couldn't cost Thor more than $20 bucks more to add.

In my really unintelligent view, If all is true then manufacturers are willfully sending out a product with known safety issues and rely on the consumer to fix after the fact. Possibly because of concerns with the impacts on RV service centers who do this work for customers that can't, or do not wish to do themselves.
There are many RV service centers that will not do the CHF because it is not recommended by Ford. Even the Camping World in my area refuses to perform the CHF and they will generally do anything. Could it be there is too much liability associated with that modification? I imagine there are just as many folks and service centers that say no as there are that say yes. I personally talked to a Ford truck service center when I had the Challenger aligned and they said no.

"If all is true then manufacturers are willfully sending out a product with known safety issues and rely on the consumer to fix after the fact."

Thank you for your extremely subjective opinion.

The consumer had the option to test drive the vehicle and then leave it on the lot if they weren't happy with the way it handled.
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Old 12-03-2019, 01:56 PM   #84
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I asked that question in June while at the Windsport Plant.The guide says they can't do any changes to the chassis( suspension wise) because they are not suspension certified shop. He agreed that both changes would improve handling. As mentioned before Ford doesn't know where the chassis will be used.
My opinion is that with the volume of chassis they order they could ask for those changes from Ford. They are bolt on options requiring only basic engineering to change. I doubt the changes would up the over all price of the coach.
The guide did say they were shooting for a price point for the end product. You can read that to say cheap is better.
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Old 12-03-2019, 02:28 PM   #85
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Spoiler alert: outrageously simplistic post follows :



Guess it would be too much to ask why Ford supplies the sway bars with optional mounting holes in the first place...


All I know is that I did mine and it helped with stability. Steering stabilizer is next.


And by the way, couldn't installing that be considered compromising the original design?
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Old 12-03-2019, 02:38 PM   #86
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And by the way, couldn't installing that be considered compromising the original design?[/QUOTE]

Technically I'd say yes. Any change would modify the engineering of the chassis. Think tire size, wheels, motorhome bolted on etc.
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Old 12-03-2019, 03:11 PM   #87
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When I bought my first motorhome (a 26 ft Freedom Elite, class C) I thought the handling needed to be improved and did all the mods people rave about and took it on a windy trip out west and didn’t have any problem. I thought “cool!” it worked. When I traded on a class A I did the same mods and again didn’t have a problem. Then I traded on another class A and I took he steering stabilizer off the old one to avoid buying it again. Left everything else on it because it would be too hard to remove. Drove the new one 500 miles home in the wind and mountains and, surprise, surprise, I didn’t have any issues with it stock. I’ll probably install my steering stabilizer because I’ve got it and it’s easy to do but I don’t think I’m going to do anything else. I’ve come to believe that, while you CAN make it handle more like a car with thousands of dollars of modifications, there’s nothing inherently dangerous about the stock setup. It just takes getting used to. Just my opinion, of course.
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Old 12-03-2019, 05:21 PM   #88
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Originally Posted by abjbrtd View Post
When Ford build a F53 that don't know who will buy it or what will be built on it.
Could be a 10k box truck or 15+k mh.
The next time you get on a tourist trolley look. Chances are it is a Hometown Trolley on a F53 chassis. We rode a bunch of them over the Thanksgiving weekend. The drivers had no idea what the CHF or steering stabilizers are.
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Old 12-03-2019, 06:41 PM   #89
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You say "There are many RV service centers that will not do the CHF because it is not recommended by Ford. I personally talked to a Ford truck service center when I had the Challenger aligned and they said no."

Then that means my statement I made that you referenced.... "If all is true then manufacturers are willfully sending out a product with known safety issues and rely on the consumer to fix after the fact." Cannot be ALL TRUE; thus manufacturers are NOT sending out product with safety issues.

Consumers therefore have right to modify against Ford's recommendation and accept their own liability. On the other hand; I have had Manufacturers and Authorized dealers that recommend the Safe T Plus.

FWIW, I spoke to Safe T Plus this morning and they are not allowed to speak to the CHF. I don't doubt the CHF may improve, just was trying to understand why it was not universally applied. Now I know why. In my case, my RV drove 1500 miles without too much concern. I think what I may get from Safe T Plus should be adequate.
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Old 12-03-2019, 06:50 PM   #90
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Originally Posted by Pete'sMH View Post
When I bought my first motorhome (a 26 ft Freedom Elite, class C) I thought the handling needed to be improved and did all the mods people rave about and took it on a windy trip out west and didn’t have any problem. I thought “cool!” it worked. When I traded on a class A I did the same mods and again didn’t have a problem. Then I traded on another class A and I took he steering stabilizer off the old one to avoid buying it again. Left everything else on it because it would be too hard to remove. Drove the new one 500 miles home in the wind and mountains and, surprise, surprise, I didn’t have any issues with it stock. I’ll probably install my steering stabilizer because I’ve got it and it’s easy to do but I don’t think I’m going to do anything else. I’ve come to believe that, while you CAN make it handle more like a car with thousands of dollars of modifications, there’s nothing inherently dangerous about the stock setup. It just takes getting used to. Just my opinion, of course.
Thanks for insight as this is kind of what I was trying to understand. I think the weight distribution / length on wheelbase is inherent factor. I drove 1500 miles in 4 days. Yes there were a few moments, but I have those moments in my SUV as well if I drive 65 mph and allow most everyone to pass me.

For now, I will not modify my brand new F53 chassis but I will look to add the Safe T Plus. I view the latter as additional support more so than modifying the design itself. I mean the Safe T Plus could break off, but nothing would happen. Just a $600 training wheel
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Old 12-03-2019, 07:42 PM   #91
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The first suspension mod I did was the chf. This topic has been talked about for years on irv2.com. with only a couple people complaining about it. I keep up with the thread fairly regularly and cant remember where anyone was denied warranty or had problems due to the chf. Several people have complained about the ride being harsher and went back to stock but that's it.

My commercial ford service center said it was fine to do and that's why the bar has two holes in it

Most shops will say no because they dont know anything about it. So instead of researching it they say no

Do what you feel comfortable with. I have no second thoughts about doing it

Jerry
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Old 01-11-2020, 12:06 AM   #92
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Would shocks with coil over springs soften the ride on my 2015 Thor Evo 29.5?
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Old 01-11-2020, 12:22 AM   #93
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Would shocks with coil over springs soften the ride on my 2015 Thor Evo 29.5?
No, the extra springs would stiffen the ride.
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Old 01-11-2020, 01:42 AM   #94
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Adding coil overs will stiffen the ride. Some guys on this site claim Sumo springs softened their ride, I don't see how that can be the case either. Sumos will keep the truck from bottoming out, perhaps that is what they refer to, but a softer ride??? Years (and years) ago I was an auto tech for Chrysler/Imperial/Plymouth. About the only thing that we recommended to soften a "ride" was new shocks and even that basically just keeps the vehicle from excessive rebound. A solid axle leaf spring suspension like an F53 motorhome chassis is going to ride like a truck. Different suspension mods will improve handling characteristics like body roll, tail wag, rut tracking etc.. But, IMHO, an F53 MH is going to ride like a truck and unless they start building them (and pricing ) like a diesel pusher with air ride we can improve handling but its gonna ride like a commercial box truck with a bed and a bathroom.....
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Old 01-11-2020, 02:11 AM   #95
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MJC, I put the sumo springs on my coach after the CHF and saf-t-plus. The ride is less jarring for sure after the sumos. I wouldn't say softer, just calmer. I don't feel the expansion joints and road imperfections as readily as I did before the install.
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Old 01-11-2020, 02:26 AM   #96
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Lt., Calmer is a very apt description! I think a "softer" ride is a myth with a motorhome. Some folks are chasing the ride of a Buick 225 and we should be happy if we get um to ride like a 1975 3/4 ton Dodge Powerwagon!
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Old 01-11-2020, 04:45 AM   #97
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Ain't that the truth. An entry level Class A is never gonna ride like a sedan.
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Old 01-12-2020, 02:40 PM   #98
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trying to get the plates for the CHF but cant seem to get the info to purchase.
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Old 01-12-2020, 05:22 PM   #99
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trying to get the plates for the CHF but cant seem to get the info to purchase.
Plates? It's called the cheap handling fix because it doesn't cost anything to do it in the driveway of your home. Requires no parts and outside of a torque wrench and maybe bottle jack no special tools are required.
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Old 01-12-2020, 05:28 PM   #100
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Plates? It's called the cheap handling fix because it doesn't cost anything to do it in the driveway of your home. Requires no parts and outside of a torque wrench and maybe bottle jack no special tools are required.
Not always true. In some chassis you physically can not connect the OEM rod to the second hole; you either need a longer rod or, as some have done, install plates on the frame to move the connection point.
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