Connecting Onan 5500 to Home Transfer Switch

[dkoldman]

Last winter during the Great Texas Freeze, I hooked up my Portable 3500 KW generator to our home Connecticut Electric 7500 watt Transfer Switch. It proved to be very valuable to us. However; as I only had a 3500 watt generator at the time of the original install, I did not include the pool equipment (20 amp breaker) in one of the 4 available 20 amp breakers on my home transfer switch. As a result, I watched my pool, pool heater, and pool pumps freeze as there was nothing I could do.

We keep our RV at home and it has 5500 Onan. If I had a L14-30R inside my electrical bay, I could have connected my RV Genny to the House Transfer Switch. If I am successful with getting the L14 - 30R above in the RV, I will rewire one of my existing 20amp circuits to supply backup power to the pool equipment. I will then use the RV to genny to supply the house and retire my 12 year old 23500 genny.

My question is how hard is that to do or should I have a Dealer install?

I have ordered the below receptacle, to get things started even if I can't do myself.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P8CGH52...t_details&th=1


My genny has two 30amp breakers, the L14-30R requires 4 wires (2 hot Red & Black) to go over 3750 watts. How do I select which of two 30 amps breakers to use, or is it just only 4 wires coming out of the generator period?

I am thinking I will need a junction box for the feed from generator that goes to the receptacle I ordered, and a line out that goes to the RV Automatic Transfer Switch?

Or should I look to wire it some other way, have an electrician do, or just not attempt to do at all?

[16ACE27]

You will need the output from BOTH breakers to connect to you receptacle and get the full 5500 watts available. If your pool pump/heater run on 240 volts this will not work as the 5500 does not provide 240 VAC out, just two lines of 120 VAC, in phase.

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by 16ACE27

You will need the output from BOTH breakers to connect to you receptacle and get the full 5500 watts available. If your pool pump/heater run on 240 volts this will not work as the 5500 does not provide 240 VAC out, just two lines of 120 VAC, in phase.

Is the output of both breakers 4 wires total ( Ground, Neutral, Black & Red)?

and would I have to put the junction box in between the breakers and Automatic Transfer Switch?

I never even thought about the pool being 240vac? I am traveling now in RV so I can't check, what I recall though is that it is on a 20 amp breaker, and I don't think it was double pole? I may have to google my pool equipment to find out.

I have the power cords ready to go, just have to find a way to install the female l14 - 30R in the RV. If I can avoid doing anything inside the ATS, I may be able to do myself, but I may have a dealer do this for me.

If I can do this it will be the easiest way yet to put more hours on genny

[Chateau_Nomad]

Here's an interesting tidbit about 120/240 volt house wiring.

https://www.quora.com/Can-a-house-be...ase-in-America

And here's a discussion on another RV forum explaining the hurdles to make your project happen:

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f44/240v...or-424966.html

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by dkoldman

Is the output of both breakers 4 wires total ( Ground, Neutral, Black & Red)?

and would I have to put the junction box in between the breakers and Automatic Transfer Switch?

I never even thought about the pool being 240vac? I am traveling now in RV so I can't check, what I recall though is that it is on a 20 amp breaker, and I don't think it was double pole? I may have to google my pool equipment to find out.

I have the power cords ready to go, just have to find a way to install the female l14 - 30R in the RV. If I can avoid doing anything inside the ATS, I may be able to do myself, but I may have a dealer do this for me.

If I can do this it will be the easiest way yet to put more hours on genny

I guess it depends on the size of your pool equipment:



Most pumps and gas heaters can be wired for either 120 or 240 VAC but a heat pump or electric heater would have to be 240 VAC.

[lwmcguire]

I wired a 50 amp 240v receptacle next to the transfer switch

Used split bolts instead of wire nuts

Only downside is cutting an opening in the compartment so the door can be closed

The awkward part is when using the Onan 10k generator for the house is wiring the cord to the house transfer switch

Due to code and common sense not having a hot male

Only other option is to leave the cord connected and coiled outside

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by lwmcguire

I wired a 50 amp 240v receptacle next to the transfer switch

Used split bolts instead of wire nuts

Only downside is cutting an opening in the compartment so the door can be closed

The awkward part is when using the Onan 10k generator for the house is wiring the cord to the house transfer switch

Due to code and common sense not having a hot male

Only other option is to leave the cord connected and coiled outside

This is what you put on the house side - no suicide cord required:

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by lwmcguire

I wired a 50 amp 240v receptacle next to the transfer switch

Used split bolts instead of wire nuts

Only downside is cutting an opening in the compartment so the door can be closed

The awkward part is when using the Onan 10k generator for the house is wiring the cord to the house transfer switch

Due to code and common sense not having a hot male

Only other option is to leave the cord connected and coiled outside

Thanks for the Safety note.

I see references to hot male plugs all the time; but I don't honestly see how that is even possible? I know it is dangerous and why but all generators I have seen all have female receptacle if any at all. Therefore the power cords all must plug in the male side of cord directly into generator. The female side goes direct into switch panel.

With that said my configuration

Connecticut Electric 7500 watt Transfer Switch
Connecticut Electric Sub Panel

The Sub Panel is hard wired and encased to the Transfer Switch which is hard wired and encased to hose main breaker.

The Sub panel input is Recessed Male L14-30P that is enclosed. So the only way to feed power is to connect with a L14-30R female plug. I have used for almost 10 years now, with my portable 3500 generator.

So for me, all I need to do is have someone wire a L14-30R in my RV so I can simply just plug in my cord into the RV. That end of the cord will be L14 - 30P but NOT HOT UNTIL PLUGGED IN w/Genny running.

Hope this clarifies.

FWIw, I don't leave my cord connected. I roll it up from the sub panel.

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by 16ACE27

I guess it depends on the size of your pool equipment:



Most pumps and gas heaters can be wired for either 120 or 240 VAC but a heat pump or electric heater would have to be 240 VAC.

I wish I had that pool evert winter

I confirmed my documentation says I can wire 120 / 240 (specifically NOT 208vac); but I still don't know. I am 100% certain the pool lights are 120vac as I have replaced them before.

I do NOT have heat pump or electric heater.

I think my Pool equipment has 2 (20 amp breakers) but I also believe I have a pool equipment switch next to all of the equipment that will shut down all power.

So I have 400 BTU Gas Heater, Polaris PB4 Cleaner Pump, and the Pool Pump that I think are all one 20 amp breaker? But I don't know.

I will NOT need the Polaris PB4 Cleaner Pump during a hard freeze so 20 amps is all I will need. With that said, my new pool heater is easy to drain if freeze reoccurs and we have extended loss of power.

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Chateau_Nomad

Here's an interesting tidbit about 120/240 volt house wiring.

https://www.quora.com/Can-a-house-be...ase-in-America

And here's a discussion on another RV forum explaining the hurdles to make your project happen:

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f44/240v...or-424966.html

Ahhhh did you get proper authorization to venture outside of a Thor Forum for information... that is cheating

While the 2nd link is focused on a user with a generator like mine, he is trying to get 240 vac from his genny, I am not.

I did learn something in his post #1 that may suggest that I have 120 vac for my pool equipment. He said if you have 240vac you will have two breaker poled together. I don't think my pool equipment is poled together like the AC units, Cooking appliances, fryer etc.

By the way, I am traveling around the country in my RV with subfreezing temperatures, completely winterized and ABSOLUTELY ZERO RV Antifreeze, not even in the P traps.

My goal is to burst a pipe; so I can prove to the nervous nellies that they were right about having to use RV Anti - freeze. Thus far; I have had no success busting a pipe, but I will keep trying I may even make it as far north as Indianapolis. I am beginning to wonder that had I not drained all of my water and blew out the lines with air; that I may have had more success trying to burst one?

[Popfla]

In order to keep my city's building code inspectors and my insurance agent happy, I've had all my electrical work done by licensed and insured electricians, with permits and inspections where required. YMMV.

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Popfla

In order to keep my city's building code inspectors and my insurance agent happy, I've had all my electrical work done by licensed and insured electricians, with permits and inspections where required. YMMV.

To be clear, the work I seek is in the RV. Trying to see the best way to get a L14 - 30R receptacle mounted in my electrical compartment.

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by 16ACE27

This is what you put on the house side - no suicide cord required:

My first time hearing or learning of Suicide Cord. It makes sense, it would seem to me to get a cord like that it would have to have male plugs on both ends. Who would sell something like? Unless you have peeps making there own cords?

The below is my system already installed and configured in my Garage, I am just wanting to plug my Onan 5500 into it.
Note: My unit has 4 prongs L14 - 30P which allows me to exceed 3750 watts

https://www.amazon.com/EGS107501G2KI...99583010&psc=1

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by dkoldman

My first time hearing or learning of Suicide Cord. It makes sense, it would seem to me to get a cord like that it would have to have male plugs on both ends. Who would sell something like? Unless you have peeps making there own cords?

The below is my system already installed and configured in my Garage, I am just wanting to plug my Onan 5500 into it.
Note: My unit has 4 prongs L14 - 30P which allows me to exceed 3750 watts

https://www.amazon.com/EGS107501G2KI...99583010&psc=1

Answered your own question.

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by 16ACE27

I guess it depends on the size of your pool equipment:

Most pumps and gas heaters can be wired for either 120 or 240 VAC but a heat pump or electric heater would have to be 240 VAC.

I did some checking from afar because I am not at home, but it looks like my pool equipment has three 20 amp breakers in total. 2 of the 3 are connected together; so it infers I do have 240 to the pool equipment. The stand alone 20 amp breaker must be for lights and controller? I will verify when I get back.

But for now, I will dump my plan to rewire my transfer switch to feed the pool equipment. If I can get all ten existing wired circuits in my Transfer Switch to be fed by my Onan 5500; I will be a Happy Camper while at Home, (pun intended).

If all this works, when/if my portable dies off, I may not need to replace it.

Thanks

[TLeenhouts]

Originally Posted by dkoldman

Last winter during the Great Texas Freeze, I hooked up my Portable 3500 KW generator to our home Connecticut Electric 7500 watt Transfer Switch. It proved to be very valuable to us. However; as I only had a 3500 watt generator at the time of the original install, I did not include the pool equipment (20 amp breaker) in one of the 4 available 20 amp breakers on my home transfer switch. As a result, I watched my pool, pool heater, and pool pumps freeze as there was nothing I could do.

We keep our RV at home and it has 5500 Onan. If I had a L14-30R inside my electrical bay, I could have connected my RV Genny to the House Transfer Switch. If I am successful with getting the L14 - 30R above in the RV, I will rewire one of my existing 20amp circuits to supply backup power to the pool equipment. I will then use the RV to genny to supply the house and retire my 12 year old 23500 genny.

My question is how hard is that to do or should I have a Dealer install?

I have ordered the below receptacle, to get things started even if I can't do myself.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P8CGH52...t_details&th=1


My genny has two 30amp breakers, the L14-30R requires 4 wires (2 hot Red & Black) to go over 3750 watts. How do I select which of two 30 amps breakers to use, or is it just only 4 wires coming out of the generator period?

I am thinking I will need a junction box for the feed from generator that goes to the receptacle I ordered, and a line out that goes to the RV Automatic Transfer Switch?

Or should I look to wire it some other way, have an electrician do, or just not attempt to do at all?

Your motorhome generator only puts out 120 VAC, not 220 as would be needed for your transfer switch input. Be veerrry careful not to toast your generator.

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by TLeenhouts

Your motorhome generator only puts out 120 VAC, not 220 as would be needed for your transfer switch input. Be veerrry careful not to toast your generator.

See, that's what happens when you don't read the thread. You offer information that was already explained in the second post over a week ago and been the topic of continued discussion.

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by TLeenhouts

Your motorhome generator only puts out 120 VAC, not 220 as would be needed for your transfer switch input. Be veerrry careful not to toast your generator.

My transfer Switch can handle both inputs 120 / 240. See post #13 this transfer switch kit is designed with the capability of 2 pole circuits and allows 240-volt circuits. I removed the installed 2-pole circuits with the tie bar to allow for 2 single pole circuits as they were NOT needed. My portable 3500 genny only does 120 as well as my Onan 5500 only does 120.

I see no problem and no risks. The Onan 5500 when connected to my Transfer switch will actually give me more power because I will have true 30amp supply on both legs of my 7500 watts available on Switch; where as today when I use my portable 3500 I only have 1 true leg of 30 amp spread across both legs of transfer switch.

My transfer switch is not wired to any circuit in my house that requires 240 nor the breaker that feeds the sub panel for my 50/30/20 Pedestal.

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by 16ACE27

See, that's what happens when you don't read the thread. You offer information that was already explained in the second post over a week ago and been the topic of continued discussion.

I would be D Friedman without you ...

FWIW, I got the parts to install the receptacle in the RV, I got some windshield work coming up and I am thinking while it is there allowing this RV Specialty shop to install for me. I figure it will not cost that much, and it will be professional wiring over me doing myself. Additionally, I record all of these wiring changes with Winnebago on my serial number. They actually give me a wink wink up on the modification.

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by dkoldman

I would be D Friedman without you ...

FWIW, I got the parts to install the receptacle in the RV, I got some windshield work coming up and I am thinking while it is there allowing this RV Specialty shop to install for me. I figure it will not cost that much, and it will be professional wiring over me doing myself. Additionally, I record all of these wiring changes with Winnebago on my serial number. They actually give me a wink wink up on the modification.

Think about it: do you think the RV repair shop has a certified electrician in the shop? Or is the same guy that swaps out batteries the guy that will do your receptacle installation and may have less of a handle on 120/240 VAC wiring than you do.