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Old 01-09-2020, 04:27 PM   #1
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Flooring

Is it possible to put vinyl plank flooring directly over the linoleum in my 2014 Windsport? Would love to update, but don't want to remove all the linoleum. I would really appreciate any advice. Thank you.
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Old 01-09-2020, 04:55 PM   #2
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Shouldn't be any different than installing it in your house EXCEPT for slide clearance as you'll have to take into account the thickness of the flooring AND the underlayment. You'll also have to take into account above floor edge finishing using quarter-round or similar molding whereas you vinyl flooring just went under cabinets and walls.
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Old 01-09-2020, 05:08 PM   #3
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Exactly as said above with an addition.
It's very common to do this and I believe instructions concerning such an install are right on the box of plank.
That's how common it is.

An addition:
We'll rout slots in our floor for an electric floor heat install when we redo the linoleum.
Just a thought.
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Old 01-09-2020, 06:27 PM   #4
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Heated flooring?!?

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Old 01-09-2020, 07:25 PM   #5
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heated flooring
great idea!
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Old 01-09-2020, 08:51 PM   #6
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We bought the 24.1 cheap cheap cheap so we're going lots of upgrades.
It's a kit with low line everything, just placeholders. The placeholders are doing fine until we decide on what we want to replace or keep.
If something offends me, I pluck it out so the whole rv won't be lost to hate and discontent.

We'll have it 20 years.

The heated flooring kits are too cheap to pass up if you're redoing the floors.
It would be an easy way to add basement heat also.

https://www.amazon.com/Electric-Radi...8609324&sr=8-6

$130 and you have a heated bathroom floor.
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Old 01-09-2020, 09:56 PM   #7
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What.a neat way to do it!
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Old 01-15-2020, 08:36 PM   #8
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The linoleum is easy to come up with a box cutter, just cut around the edges. It's usually not glued down so you just pull it up. We just recently started redoing our flooring with luxury vinyl flooring 100% waterproof, it usually has a good backing on it that don't require underlayment so we put it down on top of the factory wood flooring. The first picture is a before. Click image for larger version

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Old 01-23-2020, 01:02 PM   #9
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Thank You

Very Nice. I have the same floor plan as you. Did you have any trouble with the floors buckling when bringing in the slide? Did you use any adhesive? Sorry so many questions. One more What are the black metal flat pieces on the slide? And can I put the flooring over them? I appreciate all of your help.
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Old 01-23-2020, 01:34 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ducksface View Post
We bought the 24.1 cheap cheap cheap so we're going lots of upgrades.
It's a kit with low line everything, just placeholders. The placeholders are doing fine until we decide on what we want to replace or keep.
If something offends me, I pluck it out so the whole rv won't be lost to hate and discontent.

We'll have it 20 years.

The heated flooring kits are too cheap to pass up if you're redoing the floors.
It would be an easy way to add basement heat also.

https://www.amazon.com/Electric-Radi...8609324&sr=8-6

$130 and you have a heated bathroom floor.

Company says this needs to be embedded in mortar, are you doing this or just placing the flooring on top of the mat? I'm wondering if the continuous heating damages the flooring in direct contact with the heating element.
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Old 01-23-2020, 01:42 PM   #11
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Iíve only seen it under ceramic tile or stone flooring.
So not sure how it would work with vinyl or laminate.
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Old 01-23-2020, 02:32 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by lb2513 View Post
Very Nice. I have the same floor plan as you. Did you have any trouble with the floors buckling when bringing in the slide? Did you use any adhesive? Sorry so many questions. One more What are the black metal flat pieces on the slide? And can I put the flooring over them? I appreciate all of your help.
No problem buckling since the slide is on a platform, I just extended one plank of flooring under the rubber seal/flap and nailed the end under the flap with finishing nails. I used a minimum amount of adhesive, mainly in some corners where I wanted the flooring not to move but it's basically a floating floor. The black rubber flaps are under your furniture to seal the gap on the elevated slide. You don't normally see these unless you remove your furniture, in my case I'm having my furniture reupholstered.
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Old 01-25-2020, 07:26 PM   #13
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I don't know what floor you have, but, before you route slots in it make sure you have enough thickness. The factory floors run anywhere from 1/4 inch thick to 3/4 inch thick. You could start routing and go all the way through.
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Old 01-26-2020, 03:29 PM   #14
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The existing floor needs to come out. It is not glued down, so is easy to remove. I installed 4' vinyl planks and used the glue recommended by manufacture. I started the install in the middle of the floor, and worked my way to the edges. I did not need quarter round on the edges, but I did use brown silicone calk on the edges. The whole floor is water proof. The floor did add weight to the RV.
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Old 01-26-2020, 04:14 PM   #15
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Helped a friend put plank floor in his mh full floating snap lock went crosswise sidewall to sidewall instead of front to rear faster less waste and don't have to worry about slide pushing floor up.
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Old 01-27-2020, 05:55 PM   #16
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THOR #14623
What is this metal plate under the dinette

And can I put plank flooring over top of it? I am not putting the dinette back, instead it will be a desk area.
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Old 02-11-2020, 06:05 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Junodtim View Post
The existing floor needs to come out. It is not glued down, so is easy to remove. I installed 4' vinyl planks and used the glue recommended by manufacture. I started the install in the middle of the floor, and worked my way to the edges. I did not need quarter round on the edges, but I did use brown silicone calk on the edges. The whole floor is water proof. The floor did add weight to the RV.
Looks great! Two questions, can you share what product you installed? I love the color and your interior colors look similar to mine.

Also, anyone who's installed the plank vinyl, as it's thicker than the factory installed sheet vinyl, was there an issue with remounting the toilets?
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Old 02-12-2020, 04:43 PM   #18
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I don't have the records for the RV that I installed the floor In, so I don't have the manufacture for the floor. Go to any up to date show room to find what you want. The material that I would of chosen did not require glue down. But the material my wife chose, for color, did require glue down. It does require sheers to trim.

The existing toilet bolts were long enough for the new floor (if not, you could get longer bolts.

This floor is heaver than the existing laminate or carpet floor.
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