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Old 09-28-2020, 12:17 AM   #1
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Daybreak 22GOC
State: Kansas
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THOR #18675
How to locate roof aluminum roof frame tubing?

Info: I have a 2020 Thor Daybreak 22GO. It has a square aluminum tube roof frame, covered by a layer of 1/8th inch luaun [sp] and sealed by a TPO rubber roof layer. Styrofoam insulation is between the frame tubes, with ceiling paneling underneath. I have the THOR pdf supposedly on my roof construction. Some of the illustrations [vents, skylights, etc] are not consistent with my particular roof layout.

Modification Desired: I want/need to add a satellite dish [Tailgater] and a single 100W 39"x24" solar panel. I plan to put down rails, anchor them to the roof and then mount the items to the top of the rails. However, the rails are external to my question.

Question: I need to know the [best] ways of locating the aluminum frame . I absolutely want to drill into the aluminum instead of the luaun and styrofoam insullation. Will a carpenter's stud finder work, or is there a better method?

Thank you in advance,
Jim
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Old 09-28-2020, 12:28 AM   #2
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I just did it so I’d know where to cut a 14 inch hole for a 2nd AC. My aluminum rafters are 16 inches on center so I needed to be accurate. I used an ordinary stud finder on the roof and it was spot on perfect. To translate it into the interior I measured from a known fixed reference point. In my case I used the center of a roof vent. I was accurate to about 1/8 inch. I used the same stud finder technique when I was installing my solar panel. I wanted to drill for my mounts into a rafter and I gat all six screws into rafters. Fear not.
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Old 09-28-2020, 12:36 AM   #3
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THOR #8860
Why not try the flexible solar panels that are stuck on? It doesn't solve you problem finding studs: but it does reduce the number of holes that need cutting.
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Old 09-28-2020, 12:43 AM   #4
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THOR #18675
Bob, Thank you for the suggestion. However, I already have the rigid Renegon Solar Panel. Also, that would not solve my issue for the satellite dish.
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Old 09-28-2020, 01:33 AM   #5
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THOR #6826
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
Why not try the flexible solar panels that are stuck on? It doesn't solve you problem finding studs: but it does reduce the number of holes that need cutting.


I thought about using flexible when I did mine Bob but I wanted the air circulation under it. And I think rigid ones last longer. There are so many holes in my roof already (never counted them but numbered in the hundreds I’d guess) it didn’t seem like 6 more would be any trouble. I have a lot of faith in Dicor!
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Old 09-28-2020, 02:02 AM   #6
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I would also add the sealant to the screws before screwing them in just to help eliminate more possible water leaks and then dicor over the top of each screw. You can never be too sure when it comes to water leaks or potential spots for leaks.

Paul
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Old 09-29-2020, 02:17 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paulwadley View Post
I would also add the sealant to the screws before screwing them in just to help eliminate more possible water leaks and then dicor over the top of each screw. You can never be too sure when it comes to water leaks or potential spots for leaks.

Paul


When I did mine I drilled all of my mounting holes then cleaned the roof around each one. Then I squirted a tiiny bit of Dicor into the holes and applied a very generous gob on top of the holes before putting my panel in place. The screws were very well sealed AND the bottom of the brackets were sealed and with excess squeezed out so we’re the edges of the brackets. Finally I flooded the top of the screws and the brackets with still more dicor. I’m not worried about leaks!
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Old 09-29-2020, 11:15 AM   #8
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Can see the joist lines early morning, particularly this time of year. Look up there. Goes to show how little insulated these rigs really are.
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