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Old 03-03-2020, 12:46 AM   #1
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THOR #11834
Inconvenient Black/Grey Drains On Vegas

What were they thinking of when the sewer hook-up is under the slide out? The other problem is that it is very low to the ground. Time and again I hook up the sewer hose, it has to bend to go on carrier, and it has to drain up hill, because most sewers I have used are elevated. So every time a tank must be emptied, I have to lift hose (several times) so water can finish flowing to sewer. Has anyone found a connection at RV drain that extends out for hook-up?

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Old 03-03-2020, 01:01 AM   #2
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THOR #3483
Sewer

It is not unusual for the sewer on rigs to be under a slider. The issue with the Vegas/Axis is that it is lower to the ground than the F-53 chassis rigs. This usually creates the biggest problem if the campground sewer access is not lower than the ground level. Not much you can do about it.
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Old 03-03-2020, 01:14 AM   #3
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When you're in one of those sights that it's uphill a bit, you can turn the drain to come out the door instead of through the bottom. Yes, door must stay open, but solves the other issue.
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Old 03-03-2020, 01:24 AM   #4
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When you're in one of those sights that it's uphill a bit, you can turn the drain to come out the door instead of through the bottom. Yes, door must stay open, but solves the other issue.
That is true and will work well. Others have opted for the 12 volt FloJet RV Waste Pump Kit (great reviews). I was on the fence buying one but when I built my new home, I added a dump station.
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Old 03-03-2020, 04:07 AM   #5
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What were they thinking of when the sewer hook-up is under the slide out? The other problem is that it is very low to the ground. Time and again I hook up the sewer hose, it has to bend to go on carrier, and it has to drain up hill, because most sewers I have used are elevated. So every time a tank must be emptied, I have to lift hose (several times) so water can finish flowing to sewer. Has anyone found a connection at RV drain that extends out for hook-up?
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Old 03-03-2020, 01:16 PM   #6
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My simple solution is to remove the round cover in the bottom of the valve compartment, turn the elbow down thru the open hole and leave it there. I added some expanding foam around the opening to seal it from road dirt. Cap the outlet. Use a 45 or 90 deg. ell on end of hose to connect. I keep the hoses in valve compartment also. Dumping only takes 5-10 mins. depending on the height difference between the tank outlet and the sewer inlet.
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Old 03-03-2020, 02:19 PM   #7
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I do same thing been working for 3 years
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Old 03-03-2020, 04:09 PM   #8
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Putting the Slinky attachment under the slides may be a Satanic stroke of maleficence...
But it does give us some exercise!

And practice with bumping our heads, and making it look like a planned event.
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Old 03-03-2020, 06:24 PM   #9
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A little research showed me a new black tank is $145.
Mounting it with the drain at the rear wheel is a matter of taking out a few screws, removing the old tank, whacking one hole and putting in the new tank.
Or
Turn yours around and patch the existing holes if you don't want to spend $14delivered to your door.

Also
Electric drain valves can be had for $50 each if you shop well, $100 any day, any where.

A macerator is $79 and up on amazon.

A black hose reel is $300 and self reels itself back in.

Too many $500ish solutions to complain much about it.
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Old 03-03-2020, 06:42 PM   #10
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I just hook up the Slinky before we put out the slides...
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Old 03-03-2020, 07:03 PM   #11
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I'd think Bob is absolutely correct and his process is indisputable.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
I just hook up the Slinky before we put out the slides...
But we do it exactly the opposite.

We usually don't hook up until the last thing before we pull out.
We have no need to be on shore water just so we can complain about their pressure or any reason to have anything to do with their septic except to ensure us an empty tank while on the road.
Slide is in, checkpoints are being check pointed and I'm on their systems for less than 10 minutes.
Also
We bought the 24.1 partly because we don't need to use the slide for any real reasons unless we're meeting someone or showing the coach to some one, so it's probably already in when we're ready to go.

But

I do also have electric valves with remote switches.
Hose reel is next. I bought the swivel yesterday....
I won't have to ever open that wet Bay door.
Pull out the black hose, tap a couple of switches....

If I can find a way to not complain, I usually follow through with the cure.
Life can be easy.
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Old 03-04-2020, 02:11 AM   #12
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How do you turn drain to come out of door? Mine won't budge.
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Old 03-04-2020, 02:24 AM   #13
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How do you turn drain to come out of door? Mine won't budge.
They rotate you just have to use a little elbow grease. It took ours a few seasons before it rotated easily.
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Old 03-11-2020, 06:12 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RichRob View Post
What were they thinking of when the sewer hook-up is under the slide out? The other problem is that it is very low to the ground. Time and again I hook up the sewer hose, it has to bend to go on carrier, and it has to drain up hill, because most sewers I have used are elevated. So every time a tank must be emptied, I have to lift hose (several times) so water can finish flowing to sewer. Has anyone found a connection at RV drain that extends out for hook-up?
I’ve wondered what idiot came up with the brilliant idea to put the drains under the slide out!! I would think a larger percentage of the buyers of these expensive toys are older like me...(76). And it ain’t getting any easier as the years go by.......
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Old 03-11-2020, 06:17 PM   #15
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I’ve wondered what idiot came up with the brilliant idea to put the drains under the slide out!! I would think a larger percentage of the buyers of these expensive toys are older like me...(76). And it ain’t getting any easier as the years go by.......
I could say the same thing about storage compartments.
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Old 03-11-2020, 10:14 PM   #16
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On my 2016 Axis 24.1, I took the round access plate off the bottom and turned the waste connector downward. I had to loosen the four screws a little but it turned very easily. Problem with this is that there are some sharp screws projecting down below that can scrape your hand when connecting the tube...I'll deal with that when the snow recedes here in Minnesota. I leave the connector pointed down...don't know what they were thinking in the engineering department because that stuff doesn't flow up hill :-) My discharge tube does not have a 90 degree bend so I may invest in one of those to necessitate a better flow.
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Old 03-11-2020, 10:24 PM   #17
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THOR #13932
Do septic chores while the slide is in or invest in electric valves at 50 to 100 each.
The motor and mechanisms are an attachment and you don't have to do anything to the valves you have except bolt the electric motor on with the provided hardware. It's 10 minutes each... or less.

You're only 100 to 200, or an adjustment of your checklist, away from no complaint.

And

I'm pretty sure my owners manual, well read, says to do exactly as said above.
Remove that big plug and turn the outlet to feed through it.

The sharp screws?
Cover them with a bit of rubber hose like the hose used on the windshield washer and screw it on to the screw, or buy a kit of vacuum plugs/caps. It's the easiest way to cover them.

Today I ordered a self retracting hose to attach to my macerator. It should be here tomorrow.
There are hundreds of solutions....
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Old 03-12-2020, 12:40 AM   #18
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Sewer Access

I changed out all of the sharp screws with Stainless Steel bolts, washers and nuts.
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Old 03-12-2020, 12:54 AM   #19
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I changed out all of the sharp screws with Stainless Steel bolts, washers and nuts.
Me too. All stainless, all the time.

The caps I suggested require no tools, thought or excuse
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Old 03-12-2020, 01:58 AM   #20
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You got to remember that when you get that "What were they thinking" at looking at things like the sewer and water hook ups are under the slide, the people that design them do not and never have owned one or even camped in a tent to observe the result of their designs.
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