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Old 10-27-2016, 03:19 PM   #1
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Install Bedroom TV Freedom Elite

New to this forum and RV'ing in general. Recently purchased the Freedom Elite 26HE. There is a thin wood panel that has coax outlet and an AC outlet on the bedroom wall. Has anyone mounted a flat screen on this panel? If so, what hardware did you use? The panel seems a bit flimsy and I was wondering if any additional support might be needed for the weight of the flatpanel TV. We will probably install a 32".
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Old 10-27-2016, 06:16 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by Blazer Fanatic View Post
New to this forum and RV'ing in general. Recently purchased the Freedom Elite 26HE. There is a thin wood panel that has coax outlet and an AC outlet on the bedroom wall. Has anyone mounted a flat screen on this panel? If so, what hardware did you use? The panel seems a bit flimsy and I was wondering if any additional support might be needed for the weight of the flatpanel TV. We will probably install a 32".
We have the same unit. WHat I did was I took the TV at the bunk and moved it to the back in the bedroom. I put another 24" TV in the bunk that runs off 12v and has built in DVD Player. This way the kids can watch TV going down the road.

TO mount the TV in the spot in the back behind the center of that wood panel is solid wood to anchor a TV bracket to. Use a stud finder to find the outer edges but it is pretty large. If I remember right it was like 12" wide. I used 1.5" No.12 screws. I'm sure there is some RV brackets but I just used a cheap bracket form BestBuy. Once mounted I put some foam behind it to keep it from shaking and rattling while driving.

The HDMI cable is run to the cabinet just above the fridge. If you are buying a new TV I would suggest getting one with a built in DVD player because aiming the remote up to that cabinet is not ideal nor is leaving the cabinet open to use it.
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Old 10-27-2016, 11:04 PM   #3
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Gentilebrian, Thank you so much for the info. Where do you plug the 12v TV into for source power? Do you just use the dash 12v power source?
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Old 10-28-2016, 12:41 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by Blazer Fanatic View Post
Gentilebrian, Thank you so much for the info. Where do you plug the 12v TV into for source power? Do you just use the dash 12v power source?
I tapped into the power for the lights under the cabinet that the DVD player is in. Pull the switch out and tap into it from there. Then I ran the power in between the bottom panel up to the TV. It is powered all the time. I guess you can put in a switch but I wasn't worried about it.

Here is the TV I used. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Cheap and seems to work well. I also had the same TV in my last RV and it worked well in that also. No skipping of DVD or anything like that. Volume wasn't enough in my last Class A but in the new Class C its much quieter so its fine.
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Old 10-28-2016, 01:30 PM   #5
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Interesting that you mentioned the quietness of the Class C compared to Class A. I thought the cab was quite loud, but this our first motorhome. We were towing an A frame popup so we have no reference point. Also, the coach seems to have lots of rattles (unloaded) which I have yet to find the time to identify. I would be interested to know your unit has quite a few rattles as well. Would also like to know of any other modifications you have made. Once again, thanks for taking the time to respond.

Charlie
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Old 10-28-2016, 03:06 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Blazer Fanatic View Post
Interesting that you mentioned the quietness of the Class C compared to Class A. I thought the cab was quite loud, but this our first motorhome. We were towing an A frame popup so we have no reference point. Also, the coach seems to have lots of rattles (unloaded) which I have yet to find the time to identify. I would be interested to know your unit has quite a few rattles as well. Would also like to know of any other modifications you have made. Once again, thanks for taking the time to respond.

Charlie
I had a 2000 R-Vision 33' class A with 65k miles. It was very loud and SOOO many squeeks. Motor wasn't any louder then my new one but it was all the rattles and squeeks that were extremely noisy. This thing the whole dash would move separate from the body when hitting big bumps. I could feel the floor moving under my feet in the wind. Sealant was going bad in the front area and cold wind would come in. Wireing under the dash looked like a rats nest. Dash lights would shut off. Heater fan sounded like a jet engine. Things like that. These RV's are built like garbage which is why I only would get a Class C after owning that. I want everything that makes it drive down the road to be done by Ford so its done neat and proper.

We only had a few rattles. A little in the bathroom door which I adjusted a little and that went away and the entry door screen would rattle but I fixed that also. The only rattle I get now is maybe from some items in the drawers but the RV doesn't rattle or squeak.

The mods that I have done so far.

Speakers were the first to go. easy to replace. I think the size was 5x8" and get the ford wiring adapter for each speaker even the ones in the back so you don't have to do any wiring. Just plug in.

I put LED Flood lights on the back mounted under the back bumper. I use these on my boat and truck and hold up well and light up a camp site for backing in. Works great.

I need to put some sort of rinse system into the black tank for dumping.

The back headlights are prone to leaking so people are pulling them off and sealing them with silicone sealant. I have to do that before winter.

I want to upgrade the light in the cab. Its very dim and want something brighter.

Get a bunch of cans (I used 4) of car under coating in the spray can. Climb under and spray everything shiny and then some. Keeps the rust off for a little longer.

Eventually I want to put 6 lights outside that shine in all directions to give me 365 degree light for backing into camp sites. I typically get to the sites at night and I am towing a boat so light is very important.

Guess that's all for now. My only issues thus far is the edge of my counter is coming loose and the generator doesn't start as well as I think it should but once started it stays running.
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Old 10-29-2016, 01:40 PM   #7
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Very nice! How does it do towing your boat? Did you have to install a brake controller? We expect about 9-10 mpg without towing anything. Does that sound about right?
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Old 10-29-2016, 02:01 PM   #8
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It's great towing the boat. Boat weighs 7,000lbs. Infact in wind I think it drives a little better.

The boat has surge brakes so no brake controller.

No idea the mpg by itself because I am always towing. Towing at 70mph I get 6.5mpg.

Not horrible as my 2011 F250 only gets 7.5 towing the boat.
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Old 10-29-2016, 03:02 PM   #9
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Thanks again for your speedy response, you've been a big help!!!
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Old 11-28-2018, 08:47 PM   #10
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This is about putting a 32 in TV in the bedroom of a Freedom Elite 24HE. I am new to this. Please forgive me if I am not posting this correctly.


The mount I got to put there has 2 1/2 in lag screws. Do you think these would be too long?
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Old 11-28-2018, 09:25 PM   #11
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It has been a while since I installed my TV. The wall isn't flimsy. If you tap at the wall you will find a center section that sounds more solid. The guy that gave us the walkthrough explained that the best place is towards the center. That is where the screws need to go. 2-1/2" screws do sound a little long. Although if you look at the bathroom wall you will see that there is about 3" of space between the TV wall and bathroom wall. Most flat screens only weight a few pounds. I'd go with a slightly shorter screw.
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Old 11-28-2018, 09:34 PM   #12
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Thanks for replying to me. I will get some shorter screws. ��
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Old 11-28-2018, 09:43 PM   #13
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We put a 1x4 dressed up on the bathroom side so we could sandwich the wall between the TV mount and the 1x4. We attached hooks and clips on the bathroom side for towels and clothes. It makes life easier. We have a 22fe.
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Old 11-28-2018, 10:12 PM   #14
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Ok, it was a wider board. We made a mount for the DVD player.Click image for larger version

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Old 11-28-2018, 11:54 PM   #15
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Thor gave me a drawing of the wall structure including the thickness of the wall studs. I donít recall it anymore but I was able to find them with a stud finder and use appropriate lag bolts. Seems like I used 1.5 inch but not certain of that.
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Old 11-29-2018, 02:13 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by dallston View Post
This is about putting a 32 in TV in the bedroom of a Freedom Elite 24HE. I am new to this. Please forgive me if I am not posting this correctly.


The mount I got to put there has 2 1/2 in lag screws. Do you think these would be too long?
Get some 1.5". The walls are pretty thin.
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Old 11-29-2018, 05:56 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by gentilebrian View Post
We have the same unit. WHat I did was I took the TV at the bunk and moved it to the back in the bedroom. I put another 24" TV in the bunk that runs off 12v and has built in DVD Player. This way the kids can watch TV going down the road.

TO mount the TV in the spot in the back behind the center of that wood panel is solid wood to anchor a TV bracket to. Use a stud finder to find the outer edges but it is pretty large. If I remember right it was like 12" wide. I used 1.5" No.12 screws. I'm sure there is some RV brackets but I just used a cheap bracket form BestBuy. Once mounted I put some foam behind it to keep it from shaking and rattling while driving.

The HDMI cable is run to the cabinet just above the fridge. If you are buying a new TV I would suggest getting one with a built in DVD player because aiming the remote up to that cabinet is not ideal nor is leaving the cabinet open to use it.
Thanks for posting the information. I have an installer coming tomorrow to install a 43" LG in the bedroom TV pocket. I also, using a stud finder, found a large piece of wood in the center of the pocket. Hope this all works out OK
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Old 11-29-2018, 06:12 PM   #18
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Thanks for posting the information. I have an installer coming tomorrow to install a 43" LG in the bedroom TV pocket. I also, using a stud finder, found a large piece of wood in the center of the pocket. Hope this all works out OK
Im just over 2 years and 34,000 miles without a problem.
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Old 11-30-2018, 08:50 AM   #19
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I posted this some time ago......it pertains to our Four Winds 24F, but may apply to your Freedom Elite as well....."All, I have found that there is a stud running vertically down the center of the bedroom TV wall recess. After you drill thru this you have about 3 1/2" of clearance to the outside wall of the shower. I mounted the 32" TV to this stud with 2 toggle bolts. Hope this helps others."
BTW, since then we have logged about 1500 miles on the RV and no problems with the rigidity of the TV mounting
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Old 12-01-2018, 06:25 AM   #20
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It has been a while since I installed my TV. The wall isn't flimsy. If you tap at the wall you will find a center section that sounds more solid. The guy that gave us the walkthrough explained that the best place is towards the center. That is where the screws need to go. 2-1/2" screws do sound a little long. Although if you look at the bathroom wall you will see that there is about 3" of space between the TV wall and bathroom wall. Most flat screens only weight a few pounds. I'd go with a slightly shorter screw.


That fan looks like a real head banger
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