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Old 07-13-2018, 08:31 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by RvEd View Post
I think you meant 4-6v replaced by 2-12v? If you only have enough room for 2-6v, you definitely won't fit 2-12v in the same space.


You would have 4-6v batteries total, 2 wired in series and then those 2-pairs wired in parallel to achieve the equivalent 12v pair.

You are very confused on this entire battery voltage topic. In doesnít work as you think some of the time, yet you get it correct some of the time, which isnít good enough when designing systems. You need to understand everything correctly.

I suggest you do a bit more research to educate yourself in this area.
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Old 07-13-2018, 08:59 PM   #42
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Sorry. I didn't mean to get anyone riled. Here's an example of 4-6v batteries, wired in series and then parallel. This is, in part, what I was trying to say. I apologize if it didn't come out that way. If it's any consolation, I knew what I meant?
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Old 07-13-2018, 10:29 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by RvEd View Post
If you wanted to step it down and wire two 12v 100ah batteries in parallel, you could get 200ah. I forgot what your required space requirements were
Two Type 27 batteries...


http://www.thorforums.com/forums/att...1&d=1531520973
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Old 07-13-2018, 11:14 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
Both links I sent have dimensions for you to reference and compare to the room you have.

Just check your existing charger against a lithium charge profile. Lithium will charge different in the last phase (top off phase).
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Old 07-13-2018, 11:19 PM   #45
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Thanks!
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Old 07-15-2018, 12:24 PM   #46
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One correction: there are 3 basic modes - bulk (beginning), absorption and float (end or last). Apologies for that.
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Old 07-27-2018, 11:36 AM   #47
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Can't find my converter???

So it's back to this again. Bottom line: I can't find my converter?? I tore the coach apart yesterday, as much as I can find. If it looked like a panel or storage area, the panel came off.

The wiring schematic suggests it's under the bed at the fuse panel? I see a larger 'housing' in the back of the fuse panel at the bottom of the attached pic. It certainly looks like that's where the battery cables are entering the fuse panel.

Can anyone confirm if I'm on the right track?? Can the wires be simply 'disconnected' and rerouted for the inverter/converter install?
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Old 07-27-2018, 02:31 PM   #48
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The converter/charger is usually part of the power panel. It is in the bottom of the WFCO power panel. It is accessed from the front of the panel by removing the panel's entire cover.
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Old 07-27-2018, 02:47 PM   #49
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What Beau said. It's inside the extended portion of the back of the panel picture you posted.
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Old 07-27-2018, 02:51 PM   #50
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You will have to have good access to the inverter/converter as there will be several heavy duty wires plus the Romex coming into and leaving the device. You can just remove your old converter/charger or just disconnect it, but the inverter/converter probably will not fit there.



My 1,000 watt inverter is about twice the size of the converter/charger, and because of the heat the inverter produces, it is in a large compartment. If the inverter is 90% efficient and producing a 2,000 watt output, then 200 watts is going into heat. Ever get your hand close to a 200 watt incandescent light bulb?
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Old 07-28-2018, 10:30 PM   #51
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Thanks Beau, Fryman. 200w light bulb? Yes, I have and it gets pretty darn hot. Are you sure absolutely sure about that? How did you calculate the number?


I was going to put it under the bed (it would fit) but no more. I have a place under one of the dinette seats that has nothing else in it but that's a long run and a lot of hacking to run the wiring.


I am looking at a 2500w that has a Nominal efficiency of 88% (peak) and Line mode efficiency of 95%. Maybe your formula will help me get a handle of what I'm dealing with.
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Old 07-29-2018, 01:57 PM   #52
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Well A 200 watt light bulb does not have a fan blowing on it continuously with large aluminum heat sinks surrounding it. So IMO you cant compare them.

From my experience with a 1200 watt inverter - it only gets warm after a few hours light use.

Perhaps if I was running my inverter at peak wattage for 30 minutes or more it might get much hotter but I think most people will use the inverters for the frig and one TV and maybe a few lights continuously and other electrical items intermittently (so they are only at or near peak for a short term).

Just leave plenty of room around the inverter and would suggest a vent (or two) if under dinette or someplace that is enclosed for air flow.
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Old 08-01-2018, 01:00 PM   #53
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...Just leave plenty of room around the inverter and would suggest a vent (or two) if under dinette or someplace that is enclosed for air flow.
Thanks, makes sense and thanks for the vent idea. Have something in mind that should look factory - some neatly drilled holes and some custom ducting to the intake and exhaust to enter and exit the enclosed area.
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Old 08-01-2018, 01:36 PM   #54
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I was simply saying the total heat produced by an inverter delivering 2,000 watts at 90% efficiency is 200 watts. I did not mean to imply that the inverter itself got that hot, only that the inverter would supply that much heat into the compartment where it was installed. Most inverters have have a three speed fan and will generally operate continuously on the low speed when delivering significant power.
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