inverter install

[Beau388]

Originally Posted by 16ACE27

Yep, you can buy just about anything with enough $.
As you add features to an inverter you add $ to the cost.

If all you want to do is power a TV on the batteries why would you buy an inverter for $$$$$$$$ when a simple $35 inverter will do the job?

Different solutions for different needs.

And sometimes, the pocketbook dictates the solution selected vs the solution wanted.

I am happily married to a 80 year old woman who still drives an manual transmission car. Electronics are not her forte. If I am out of the coach and she wants to use any appliance in the coach, why should she have to do anything but turn the switch on. Using a special receptacle or dragging an extension cord around is not the way we live at home, so why should the RV be different.

We spent 4 years with a plug in inverter in the early 1990's in my first class A RV. It was a Vectron 1000 watt modified sine wave inverter with two 15 amp receptacles. In 1997 I replaced the Vectron with a Xantrex Pro Sine 1000 with a 15 amp pass-relay (transfer switch) and added a ATS to the shore line when I installed a generator to run the roof A/C on the road. I would never buy a new coach without an inverter. If I have an inverter, it should work as seamless as the ATS or generator auto start.
Everyone need a coach that fits their needs at a cost they can afford. Convenience is nice to have but not a necessity. Unnecessary complication is is never a necessity.

I still drive a 1961 Chevy PU truck not because I can't afford a new one, but because they don't currently make one that has a 10 ft bed with a side ramp into the bed for the golf cart - like the one I have.

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by Beau388

I am happily married to a 80 year old woman who still drives an manual transmission car. Electronics are not her forte. If I am out of the coach and she wants to use any appliance in the coach, why should she have to do anything but turn the switch on. Using a special receptacle or dragging an extension cord around is not the way we live at home, so why should the RV be different.

We spent 4 years with a plug in inverter in the early 1990's in my first class A RV. It was a Vectron 1000 watt modified sine wave inverter with two 15 amp receptacles. In 1997 I replaced the Vectron with a Xantrex Pro Sine 1000 with a 15 amp pass-relay (transfer switch) and added a ATS to the shore line when I installed a generator to run the roof A/C on the road. I would never buy a new coach without an inverter. If I have an inverter, it should work as seamless as the ATS or generator auto start.
Everyone need a coach that fits their needs at a cost they can afford. Convenience is nice to have but not a necessity. Unnecessary complication is is never a necessity.

I still drive a 1961 Chevy PU truck not because I can't afford a new one, but because they don't currently make one that has a 10 ft bed with a side ramp into the bed for the golf cart - like the one I have.

Like I said Jim, different solutions for different needs.

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Chateau_Nomad

This is exactly what I'd like to do... simple and cost effective. Question... could you give me a link to that refrigerator switch? And also a simple drawing showing how you wired it in with the existing refrigerator AC outlet? THANKS!!

au contraire, simple and cost effective is in the eye of the beholder. When I thought harder about the quoted $$$ perspective; I came to realize that the solution I have only cost me $20 I bought a box that had a 1000 watt inverter, a transfer switch and made it mine by buying a Southwire Heavy Duty Appliance cord that I tapped into an existing inverter supplied receptacle and plugged my Norcold into it. For those reasons, I may have the most simple and cost effective system yet.

Here is the drawing for what I have. Few things of note, I don't see a need where I would want all of my outlets on Inverter circuit. Just never needed it (15 amps is my limit), but adding the Norcold Fridge (primarily for driving only) has made all the difference.

With all that said, I like the read from Beau388 and his view. I certainly can see the coolness of the engineering for fully automated system, I think I could accomplish similar by paying $50 for a home APC battery backup and surge protector. All I need with continuous power would be the Router & Main TV. It would cover for those times when I switch from Inverter to Shorepower/Generator & vice versa without losing the streaming and video from youtubeTV.

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Beau388

I am happily married to a 80 year old woman who still drives an manual transmission car.

We spent 4 years with a plug in inverter in the early 1990's in my first class A RV.

I would never buy a new coach without an inverter.

Unnecessary complication is is never a necessity.

I still drive a 1961 Chevy PU truck not because I can't afford a new one

[Chateau_Nomad]

Originally Posted by dkoldman

au contraire, simple and cost effective is in the eye of the beholder. When I thought harder about the quoted $$$ perspective; I came to realize that the solution I have only cost me $20 I bought a box that had a 1000 watt inverter, a transfer switch and made it mine by buying a Southwire Heavy Duty Appliance cord that I tapped into an existing inverter supplied receptacle and plugged my Norcold into it. For those reasons, I may have the most simple and cost effective system yet.

Here is the drawing for what I have. Few things of note, I don't see a need where I would want all of my outlets on Inverter circuit. Just never needed it (15 amps is my limit), but adding the Norcold Fridge (primarily for driving only) has made all the difference.

With all that said, I like the read from Beau388 and his view. I certainly can see the coolness of the engineering for fully automated system, I think I could accomplish similar by paying $50 for a home APC battery backup and surge protector. All I need with continuous power would be the Router & Main TV. It would cover for those times when I switch from Inverter to Shorepower/Generator & vice versa without losing the streaming and video from youtubeTV.

Thanks for the drawing! Did you actually install a sub panel? I was thinking of trying to use the RV's existing service box if possible.

[txc2936@yahoo.com]

I was looking thru my owners manual. This is the face of the refrigerator. So yours doesn't have the plug only? Only AUTO and propane setting. I can set #283 for AC only. If the AC shuts off, i doesn't revert back to propane, as setting #277 will do.

[Beau388]

Originally Posted by txc2936@yahoo.com

I was looking thru my owners manual. This is the face of the refrigerator. So yours doesn't have the plug only? Only AUTO and propane setting. I can set #283 for AC only. If the AC shuts off, i doesn't revert back to propane, as setting #277 will do.

There are 9 difference models of the N641 RV fridge. Probably each model has some differences in the control panel. Mine has two slide switches, one is the temperature settings 1 to 5 and the other slide switch has auto, off. and propane positions. Two LEDs on the control panel one orange and one green indicate operating mode. Both LEDs flash indicating a fault. The manual states that AC has priority over propane in the auto mode.

[Beau388]

Originally Posted by Chateau_Nomad

Thanks for the drawing! Did you actually install a sub panel? I was thinking of trying to use the RV's existing service box if possible.

When I switched to a 30 amp pass-through inverter and had a coach with 2 circuits of 14 awg Romex and one of 14-3c awg THHN pvc coated wire that I needed powered by the inverter. A small sub-panel was the only to protect the 14 awg. If you only have a 15 amp pass-through inverter, you could gang the wires together. safely, knowing that the total load on all the inverter powered circuits could not exceed 15 amps.

[txc2936@yahoo.com]

JIM? what did you cut the hole with? Looks like the jig saw got a way from you at the top? From shop class. measure twice cut once.

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Chateau_Nomad

Thanks for the drawing! Did you actually install a sub panel? I was thinking of trying to use the RV's existing service box if possible.

My inverter is OEM; came with the entry level box I keep hearing about

It truly only cost me $20 for parts and I did all of the labor myself to wire in Fridge. It is very neatly done, no visible wires, no cords, no switches and no mess.

Winnebago only has one main AC breaker compartment, but there is panel next to the main AC panel that you could call sub panel. I would think as long as you have open slot on your existing AC panel you are good.

BTW, I picked up my RV today. It was finished and gas prices are dropping. The new service center I use did a very good job. It was a decent drive South of Dallas to get there, but worth it. I finally have a service shop that is NOT a Winnebago Dealer; but that is actually not bad news because the Winnebago dealer spent 2 1/2 years before they finally said no more warranty work for me Winnebago took care of everything I served them. From what little I read and my personal experience; it will be hard for me to ever see myself buying SOB other than Winnebago.


BTW, driving home the RV was pulling to the left. I checked the tires at home and had to pull out the fresh Makita. LF was 81 psi and RF 86 psi. Damn I wish had one of those TPMS I topped off all tires and was done including putaway with 10 minutes.

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by txc2936@yahoo.com

I was looking thru my owners manual. This is the face of the refrigerator. So yours doesn't have the plug only? Only AUTO and propane setting. I can set #283 for AC only. If the AC shuts off, i doesn't revert back to propane, as setting #277 will do.

That is exactly what I have. Mine basically stays in what you call 283 AC only; unless I know I am boondocking and wish to use propane exclusively. Before I made my inverter modification I had on AUTO all the time.

[Chateau_Nomad]

Originally Posted by dkoldman

My inverter is OEM; came with the entry level box I keep hearing about

It truly only cost me $20 for parts and I did all of the labor myself to wire in Fridge. It is very neatly done, no visible wires, no cords, no switches and no mess.

Winnebago only has one main AC breaker compartment, but there is panel next to the main AC panel that you could call sub panel. I would think as long as you have open slot on your existing AC panel you are good.

BTW, I picked up my RV today. It was finished and gas prices are dropping. The new service center I use did a very good job. It was a decent drive South of Dallas to get there, but worth it. I finally have a service shop that is NOT a Winnebago Dealer; but that is actually not bad news because the Winnebago dealer spent 2 1/2 years before they finally said no more warranty work for me Winnebago took care of everything I served them. From what little I read and my personal experience; it will be hard for me to ever see myself buying SOB other than Winnebago.


BTW, driving home the RV was pulling to the left. I checked the tires at home and had to pull out the fresh Makita. LF was 81 psi and RF 86 psi. Damn I wish had one of those TPMS I topped off all tires and was done including putaway with 10 minutes.

Mine is a 30 amp coach with a standard (WFCO I think) dist panel. I'll have to check, but I don't think there are any open slots to stick a 15amp breaker in.

It's probably more effort than it's worth just for two outlets and a dedicated refrigerator configuration. The two "non refrigerator" outlets are a no brainer... they definitely don't need a transfer switch - just powered when the inverter is on. For what it's worth, those two outlets could even be used when connected to shore power... the batteries are being charged then anyway.

Seems like I could wire a cheap transfer switch directly into the refrigerator circuit without running Romex clear back to the panel...

[Beau388]

Originally Posted by txc2936@yahoo.com

JIM? what did you cut the hole with? Looks like the jig saw got a way from you at the top? From shop class. measure twice cut once.

Good eye. Not my best carpentry. It is just the 1/8" lauan bed base surround. I cut it with a saber saw before I added the backing (a mistake). I thought the support on the right would be enough steady the plywood. There was already a hole there for an electrical receptacle and all i did was to enlarge it. It looks good if you don't get down on your knees with a flashlight. I have replaced the masking with a scrap piece of plywood. I tried to find a 4 circuit panel with a cover but the cheapest I could find was $120 so I sprung for the $17 open one.

[Beau388]

Originally Posted by Chateau_Nomad

Mine is a 30 amp coach with a standard (WFCO I think) dist panel. I'll have to check, but I don't think there are any open slots to stick a 15amp breaker in.

It's probably more effort than it's worth just for two outlets and a dedicated refrigerator configuration. The two "non refrigerator" outlets are a no brainer... they definitely don't need a transfer switch - just powered when the inverter is on. For what it's worth, those two outlets could even be used when connected to shore power... the batteries are being charged then anyway.

Seems like I could wire a cheap transfer switch directly into the refrigerator circuit without running Romex clear back to the panel...

In my coach, the fridge 120 volt power is daisy chained to the duplex receptacle on the shower wall next to the bedroom dressing nook. There were (and still are) seven separate 120 volt circuits powering single or duplex receptacles in the coach: three were ganged to the inverter output (TVs, electronics cabinet, CPAP), GFCI proteced receptacles, microwave, one for the big slide and one for the rest of the coach.

[txc2936@yahoo.com]

I noticed the same on the ACE. ( they wired in the refrig with the gen receptacles??) So i decided to install a separate Breaker for the refrig receptacle only, took a little while to untangle and get the wiring straight.

I installed a heavy duty rotary switch for the source selection to the refrig, the yellow wire is from the inverter (mounted at the battery) and the white is the 14 gauge wire from the breaker box, the black goes off to the refrig outlet and came with RV.

The breaker box is supplied by either the generator or the SP... works fine for me. The refrig is set to AC plug only setting, so when i shutdown, the refrig doesn't revert to propane.

BTW, i spent a load of time getting the cutout right in the bed side. measured, checked, drilled and the switch fit perfectly inside the area.

[Jimbo56]

I can’t stand the thought of no morning coffee, while traveling, and being not allowed to use the generator at a harvest host location. I have a single cup brewer that states it’s 650 watts. I currently have no inverter. Here is what I’d like confirm on.

I’m buying a 1000w modified sine inverter that uses alligator clips to attach to the battery. It has 3 fuses and an on/off switch. I’m only going to clip it to a battery when I want to use it, otherwise it’ll sit in a storage compartment. I plan to run an extension cord from the inverter, thru an existing hole in the floor to the kitchen. I’ll leave the cord in place plugging it into the inverter only when in use.

Whaddaya think? Easy? Simple?

[Judge]

Originally Posted by Jimbo56

I can’t stand the thought of no morning coffee, while traveling, and being not allowed to use the generator at a harvest host location. I have a single cup brewer that states it’s 650 watts. I currently have no inverter. Here is what I’d like confirm on.

I’m buying a 1000w modified sine inverter that uses alligator clips to attach to the battery. It has 3 fuses and an on/off switch. I’m only going to clip it to a battery when I want to use it, otherwise it’ll sit in a storage compartment. I plan to run an extension cord from the inverter, thru an existing hole in the floor to the kitchen. I’ll leave the cord in place plugging it into the inverter only when in use.

Whaddaya think? Easy? Simple?

That will probably work just fine for what you want to do.

I would recommend looking at quality Inverters over $100 vs the really cheap sub-$100 ones. I know a few peoe who went the cheap route and they did not hold up very long.

Perhaps someome will chime in with a low cost option that has worked well for them for a while.

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by Jimbo56

I can’t stand the thought of no morning coffee, while traveling, and being not allowed to use the generator at a harvest host location. I have a single cup brewer that states it’s 650 watts. I currently have no inverter. Here is what I’d like confirm on.

I’m buying a 1000w modified sine inverter that uses alligator clips to attach to the battery. It has 3 fuses and an on/off switch. I’m only going to clip it to a battery when I want to use it, otherwise it’ll sit in a storage compartment. I plan to run an extension cord from the inverter, thru an existing hole in the floor to the kitchen. I’ll leave the cord in place plugging it into the inverter only when in use.

Whaddaya think? Easy? Simple?

I think you are The Jimbo56 and a Freedom Traveler. Therefore you must have a Inverter Installed with remote switch. I can't see it costing much more than your proposed workaround. The Inverter is essential and ZERO chance I would own a RV without one.

I think 1000 watts is more than enough, but according to magnum dynamics if my 1,000watt were to ever die; it is plug and play with the wiring for their 2,000 watt unit.

We can't run the microwave on our inverter. So if you are restricted by Harvest Host you will not be able to use Microwave ( since no generator is allowed?). We don't have coffee pot; so that is none issue for us.

I don't like the manual clips for same reason, I am not a fan of Vair. I don't want to fool with all of the hooks up. I am a plug in & push the button kind of guy.

Thanks for the Heads up, Harvest Host is not in our future is they don't have Shorepower and will not allow one to use their generator.

[Pillbox]

Originally Posted by Jimbo56

I can’t stand the thought of no morning coffee, while traveling, and being not allowed to use the generator at a harvest host location. I have a single cup brewer that states it’s 650 watts. I currently have no inverter. Here is what I’d like confirm on.

I’m buying a 1000w modified sine inverter that uses alligator clips to attach to the battery. It has 3 fuses and an on/off switch. I’m only going to clip it to a battery when I want to use it, otherwise it’ll sit in a storage compartment. I plan to run an extension cord from the inverter, thru an existing hole in the floor to the kitchen. I’ll leave the cord in place plugging it into the inverter only when in use.

Whaddaya think? Easy? Simple?

FWIW, Just remember most a/c appliances like a full sine wave. I burned up 2 mr coffee pot up on modified sine waves.
Terry

[Jimbo56]

Originally Posted by Pillbox

FWIW, Just remember most a/c appliances like a full sine wave. I burned up 2 mr coffee pot up on modified sine waves.
Terry

What’s the difference?