Inverter Set-up (feedback needed)

[rvfigs]

Originally Posted by JamieGeek

That really seems like an inefficient way to keep the refer cold. If you really don't want to burn the very little propane that the refer uses.

Unlike a residential refer, the 120V consumption of a camping refer is pretty much continuous. It will still run in cycles: On when it warms above the set point and off when it goes below it but those cycles are really long.

How do you keep your fridge on when you are going down the road?

[gmc]

Originally Posted by rvfigs

How do you keep your fridge on when you are going down the road?

12v for the control panel - and propane for the refrigeration...
The most efficient way to run this type of fridge.
(talking about a rig with an 'RV' rather than 'residential' fridge.)

[rvfigs]

Originally Posted by gmc

12v for the control panel - and propane for the refrigeration...
The most efficient way to run this type of fridge.
(talking about a rig with an 'RV' rather than 'residential' fridge.)

I run my fridge on propane all the time. However, my lovely wife insist, according to her research, that running propane while going down the road isn't safe.

[Laco]

Originally Posted by rvfigs

Fellows campers,

I need some assistance...

I'm getting ready for my inverter install.

What do you think about powering the refrigerator with the inverter?

Does the refrigerator have a dedicated breaker? How many watts/amps does the refrigerator have?

My wife seems to think that running the refrigerator on inverter power is better than running the refrigerator on propane while going down the road.

The amount of propane used by the refrigerator isn't much. I don't know which refrigerator you have, but ours will run on 110 volts, propane or 12 volts while underway is desired. With those choices, I frankly see no need to even consider running on 110 while underway. In our previous DP we ran the considerably larger Norcold on propane for days while underway, I never saw even a dent in our propane levels as a result. Of course we did carry over 50 gallons of propane in that coach vs the 16 in the current one.

[SuperD]

The amount of propane a fridge uses is very minimal, you can run for weeks on your propane. Fridge uses 12 volts for control power which is also minimal. Personally I would not run the fridge on AC while traveling unless there were some specific reason to do so. Once the fridge is cold it will stay that way for a long time unless opened frequently.

[rvfigs]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OKks_nZ12DI

[rvfigs]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i2Me...A&spfreload=10

[gmc]

Nice thing about the internet is you can find any opinion you want...
And very unlikely to find a company like those risk a lawsuit because they said you could...
The appliances are designed to be used while traveling or parked.

Bottom line - driving down the road isn't safe - but we all do it.

Feel free to keep your lovely wife happy and not run it - but many people do... same as many run their generators (which may be propane powered as well) when additional A/C cooling is needed while traveling.

If using propane - you are supposed to be turning off all appliances before refueling - and follow bridge, tunnel, ferry restrictions where posted.

As far as the 'dangerous' things we do - I don't think it is anywhere near the top of the list...

[rvfigs]

Originally Posted by gmc

Nice thing about the internet is you can find any opinion you want...
And very unlikely to find a company like those risk a lawsuit because they said you could...
The appliances are designed to be used while traveling or parked.

Bottom line - driving down the road isn't safe - but we all do it.

Feel free to keep your lovely wife happy and not run it - but many people do... same as many run their generators (which may be propane powered as well) when additional A/C cooling is needed while traveling.

If using propane - you are supposed to be turning off all appliances before refueling - and follow bridge, tunnel, ferry restrictions where posted.

As far as the 'dangerous' things we do - I don't think it is anywhere near the top of the list...

I was running the propane all last season with no problems.

Then DW decided that she wanted to "add stuff" to my inverter project.

Damnation to the interweb!

[Chance]

Expanding on running air conditioner off batteries:


At the Tampa supershow our favorite van was the Roadtrek Zion, so we spent a little more time looking at features and details.

The Zion at show had two 200-Ah lithium batteries for a total of 400-Ah. It reportedly also had a high efficiency 11,000 BTU/hr A/C which pulls approximately 1,000 watts at rated conditions.

Comparing specs to vendor claims, the numbers seem believable. With 400 Amp-hours of lithium batteries, stored energy is approximately 4,800 watt-hours. Assuming roughly 90% inverter efficiency and 80% depth of discharge, that works out to about 3,500 usable Watt-hours at air conditioner.

Since A/C pulls around 1,000 watts, it would operate up to 3-1/2 hours off the two batteries; and that's exactly the number the technician gave me.



Part of the system's apparent limitation I'm not yet comfortable with is that since it doesn't have a traditional generator, the engine will start automatically on low voltage and charge the batteries from a separate high-capacity alternator. That alternator should make up to around 3,000 watts, which means that 1,000 would run the A/C and the remaining 2,000 watts would charge the batteries. But the system will only run for 30 minutes at a time, which means only about 1,000 watt-hours would get replaced in batteries.

Unfortunately, that amount of energy will run A/C less than an hour before engine has to restart and run for another 30 minutes, etc... If my rough estimate is correct, the engine would end up running almost half the time, and that's just not ideal if running A/C constantly on a hot day while tailgating in hot Florida sun.

I suppose one could minimize total engine run time by operating the dash A/C and turning off the roof-mounted A/C every time the engine starts. That would permit the entire alternator capacity to go towards recharging batteries, which would then charge faster.

My assumptions may not be correct, which is why I'm going to look into this system a bit more.

[rvfigs]

What do you fellas think about this set-up for my inverter? I am just adding another 30 amp receptacle.

I installed my inverter completely separate from the coaches AC circuit.

Still on the fence about this set-up.

[Chance]

Originally Posted by rvfigs

What do you fellas think about this set-up for my inverter? I am just adding another 30 amp receptacle.

I installed my inverter completely separate from the coaches AC circuit.

Still on the fence about this set-up.

I'm not 100% certain what you are trying to accomplish, but the potential problem I see with your sketch, if I'm understanding it correctly, is that there is no positive means to ensure that different power sources can't be accidentally connected together at same time.

The reason for transfer switches, or manual plugs, is that you have to disconnect one source before connecting another. If I'm following your sketch, wouldn't you be able to connect shore power and inverter in parallel? If so, that can't be allowed to happen unless you have an unusual inverter.

[clete02]

I recently purchased a Thor ACE 30.1 motorcoach. I'm trying to figure out if the RV has a inverter. I've looked in the logical places, but can't seem to locate it. I'm thinking I don't have one. The only way I can run my microwave and TVs is using the generator or hooking up to the electrical at the rv site. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

[rvfigs]

So, let's say I was out dry camping and I wanted to power everything in my rig.

I could just take a 30 amp cord...use a dog bone (30amp to 15amp)...and plug it directly into the inverter. The inverter would essentially send power to the 30 amp cord...acting as "shore power."

Yes, I would need to make sure that I shut down the converter and main.

All I'm doing is sending power to the shore power line via the inverter.

[gmc]

Originally Posted by rvfigs

So, let's say I was out dry camping and I wanted to power everything in my rig.

I could just take a 30 amp cord...use a dog bone (30amp to 15amp)...and plug it directly into the inverter. The inverter would essentially send power to the 30 amp cord...acting as "shore power."

Yes, I would need to make sure that I shut down the converter and main.

All I'm doing is sending power to the shore power line via the inverter.

In that diagram - the MAIN would need to stay on (or power wouldn't get to the panel)... and the converter breaker off...

But as Chance pointed out - this setup allows the possibility of the inverter and shore power being connected in parallel - the dogbone connecting the inverter to the 'shore' side of the transfer switch - and still being able to plugin the shore cable to its receptacle feeding the same input on the transfer switch...
The results would be 'interesting' (read expensive...) Certainly a blown inverter...

[Chance]

You can keep it simpler by not adding a second 30-Amp plug. That way you can't plug both at same time. You would just plug your 30-Amp cord to inverter, using necessary adaptor (that's simple and cheap).

Unless you have a large inverter and even larger battery bank, you'll have to make sure all large users are turned off. No A/C, microwave, water heater, etc. And of course battery charger must be off or you'll just have a wasteful loop.

I've rented motorhomes that had similar wiring, except it was a generator instead of inverter. The 30-Amp plug could go directly to generator. It had no transfer switch. The owner/renter did the transfer by plugging which source he wanted.

[rvfigs]

Originally Posted by Chance

You can keep it simpler by not adding a second 30-Amp plug. That way you can't plug both at same time. You would just plug your 30-Amp cord to inverter, using necessary adaptor (that's simple and cheap).

Unless you have a large inverter and even larger battery bank, you'll have to make sure all large users are turned off. No A/C, microwave, water heater, etc. And of course battery charger must be off or you'll just have a wasteful loop.

I've rented motorhomes that had similar wiring, except it was a generator instead of inverter. The 30-Amp plug could go directly to generator. It had no transfer switch. The owner/renter did the transfer by plugging which source he wanted.

Great suggestion...keep it simple silly!

[Chance]

You may still run into some issues like proper grounding, but it's worth trying. I have an adaptor that allows 30-Amp cord to plug into standard 15- or 20-Amp outlet. They cost a few dollars if you don't have one already.

Let us know how your tests work out.

[RadioRanger]

Originally Posted by clete02

I recently purchased a Thor ACE 30.1 motorcoach. I'm trying to figure out if the RV has a inverter. I've looked in the logical places, but can't seem to locate it. I'm thinking I don't have one. The only way I can run my microwave and TVs is using the generator or hooking up to the electrical at the rv site. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

I bought an ACE 29.3 last year and thought I had an inverter too. I found I did not because we deleted the outside kitchen. They supply the inverter on the models that have an outside kitchen to run the refrigerator for the outside kitchen.

Here is a link with the features. Look at the bottom row of the entertainment section.

https://thormotorcoach.com/ace/features/

Gotta add an inverter this year.


John

[rvfigs]

Originally Posted by Chance

You may still run into some issues like proper grounding, but it's worth trying. I have an adaptor that allows 30-Amp cord to plug into standard 15- or 20-Amp outlet. They cost a few dollars if you don't have one already.

Let us know how your tests work out.

What ground issues do you anticipate?

Any suggestions?