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Old 04-16-2020, 02:09 AM   #1
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Brand: Entegra
Model: Accolade 37K
State: Virginia
Posts: 85
THOR #12448
Jeff's Miramar Mods

We don't use our cooktop frequently (maybe 2-3 times total in the 2+ years we've owned it), preferring to cook outside or just use the Instant-Pot when we're stuck inside. We had previously found a prefinished board that's supposed to sit on top of a rolling toolbox which fit nicely over the cooktop when a few adhesive rubber feet were added around the outside edge. The cooktop is induction, so no fears of starting fires either. So, it's been like that for maybe a year now.

I had some time this weekend and decided to figure out how to make it more permanent, then the thought came to me: cut a pocket into it so the cooktop will sit inside the board, both making it look a little more designed-in as well as lower profile.

I have CNC router I built a few years back, and while not the fastest method of cutting it out, it's definitely a flagrant abuse of a machine capable of so much more.



Some satin lacquer was applied to the exposed wood to help reduce moisture absorption and warping a little. It matched the original finish surprising well. Lastly, I changed out the original larger rubber feet we had been using for some much smaller ones 6mm x 2mm (around 1/4" x 3/32"), so it'll still grab the counter, as well as protect the cooktop should anything push down hard enough to make contact (unlikely).



And here's the finished product, which somewhat resembles a built-in cutting board:



Another use for the tiny rubber feet are on our wireless multiplex control panels, so we can find the main light in the dark.



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Old 04-16-2020, 02:17 AM   #2
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Brand: Entegra
Model: Accolade 37K
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THOR #12448
This is one I did last year, which I had done a video for, but never actually posted the video.

Here's the post where I initially mentioned it:
https://www.thorforums.com/forums/f2...1-a-14398.html

And the video I made of the install (first one I ever shot, edited and posted, so be kind).



I don't think I addressed it specifically in the video, but I eventually wound up purchasing the Titan Flame EF30B, as the Furrion bowed out too much in the front (by only 1/2" or so).
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Old 10-23-2020, 01:26 PM   #3
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
State: Nevada
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THOR #19284
Great idea for finding the light in the dark! Why didn’t I think of that?
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Old 10-23-2020, 06:50 PM   #4
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Brand: Entegra
Model: Accolade 37K
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Posts: 85
THOR #12448
To be fair, I don't think I came up with the idea in a vacuum. Instead I believe I read about the idea somewhere, possibly this forum.

Those smaller bumpers wound up not sticking terribly well. We're still looking for an alternative. We had used some others earlier on that were like 3 times the size. Those stuck well, but were a little too big.
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Old 08-11-2021, 01:14 AM   #5
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Brand: Entegra
Model: Accolade 37K
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Posts: 85
THOR #12448
I also posted this in another thread, but I'm putting it here so I can more easily reference it later.

My bed (slide) frame was bending, and looked very much like this pic from the thread referred to above:


I fixed this almost exactly two years ago, and we've had close to 100 nights on the bed with what I'm guessing is 50 in/out cycles. Of the three slides in my rig, this one is now by far the smoothest.

If anyone else wants to try to tackle this on their own (e.g., out of warranty), here's some pictures of the rollers under the bed before and after my improvements.

Here's what it looked like underneath originally, which explains why the slide/bed frame started to tweak/bend on the outer cutouts (see the OPs pics). It's actually not the roller bracket that's bending, it's the frame member because it's soft pine and only held together by staples. Bed slide is out, and you're looking inside the cabinet under the bed where the electrical rat's nest is housed. There is a cut-out (my hand is above it), so when the slide is out and the bed-lift is up, you can access to the rat's nest.




Here's the other side with the roller removed. If you look closely, you can see the top is tilted a little forward.


And the roller was only held on by a handful of short #10 screws.


Here's my fix - a 1/2" piece of plywood, cut to size and glued+screwed into the frame (very rigid now). The roller was reattached with some lag bolts and washers. The lower screws are likely unnecessary, but added to keep it from slipping down should the lag bolts loosen up at all. Note this pic was taken with the slide in.


And because it wouldn't be one of my projects if I didn't introduce some overkill, so I added some extra rollers at the end of the cabinet because the bed really needs some extra support when the slide is in. It also helps quite a bit to support the end of the bed when it's out as well. What you don't see is another piece of plywood to make an L with the one you do see. The screws go through the roller bracket, through the plywood you see and into the edge of the one on the backside of the face frame. The one on the back side is screwed to the face frame to give some extra strength to the corner. It was also the easiest way I could come up with to attach the roller without doing something like removing the slide or tearing apart the face frame. Due to what I've done, most of the weight is transferred to the vertical face frame piece. Note this pic was taken with the slide in.


I wound up lifting the end of the bed something like 3-4" because it was sagging that much (almost hitting the cabinet frame), and flexing each and every time we ran the slide in/out. The entire slide+bed is perfectly level with the cabinet now, which is level with the floor and the entire bed is rock solid, either in or out.
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Old 08-11-2021, 03:24 PM   #6
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: challenger 37FH
State: Delaware
Posts: 695
THOR #13399
Really like the cover for cooktop anyone making them yet?
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Old 08-11-2021, 04:10 PM   #7
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Brand: Entegra
Model: Accolade 37K
State: Virginia
Posts: 85
THOR #12448
Not that I'm aware of. In theory, anyone could make it pretty easily if they have a small amount of DIY skill and some experience with a router (although, undoubtedly there are plenty of online videos can show you how to use it safely to set up, hog out the center, and follow a template for straight outer edges for the pocket).

You just need the wood top:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/203949843
A router with a 1/4" collet:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/100660705
A dado/mortising router bit with 1/4" shank:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/100660705

Those are just examples of supplies/tools, there's many ways to accomplish the same, a few come to mind some even without a router.

Before I cut the pocket into it, we were just using the wood top indicated above with some of the rubber feet around the outer edge.
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