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Old 11-19-2017, 03:28 PM   #2361
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Model: 2017 Windsport 29M
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tnedator View Post
I'm not a guy that has spent a lot of time working with electrical. I've done it here and there over the years. Swapped out a light for a ceiling fan or recently replaced a control for heated flooring.

I bought this just so there is no doubt that I'm working with dead wires. For me, it's well worth the $15 or $20 that I paid for it. You turn it on and you just touch the wires you want to check and it will tell you if they are hot. Unlike a multi meter, it doesn't take two hands and it doesn't require getting to bare copper.

I have that very same tool and normally use it every time, just didnít have it with me! Wish I had!!! I had my multi meter and didnít use it and like I said, I KNOW better!!! Painful reminder to always do it the right way!
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Old 11-19-2017, 03:41 PM   #2362
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Originally Posted by SuperD View Post
I have that very same tool and normally use it every time, just didnít have it with me! Wish I had!!! I had my multi meter and didnít use it and like I said, I KNOW better!!! Painful reminder to always do it the right way!
My respect (read fear) of electricity has me double, triple checking.

The Klein is nicer, which I have at home, but I grabbed a different brand at one of the local stores and am not keeping a multi-meter and hot wire detector in the RV.

For those who don't have one yet, Klein makes a dual mode model (which I have) which will check for both low and high voltage and give a different tone depending on if it's over or under 50 volts.
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Old 11-23-2017, 03:30 PM   #2363
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2017 Windsport 34J

Jerry,
Thanks for starting and maintaining this thread. The tips and ideas that you, Dino and many others have been a great help to me. Especially considering we have the same coach.

Sometime around March, shortly after I bought my Windsport 34J, I made a solo trip from San Diego to Jacksonville, FL and back. The winds in AZ, NM and most of TX literally kicked my butt, especially when semi's roared by.

The long and short, I am making the same trip on Sunday with my Daughter and her family. I took your advice and installed Sumo (front and rear) and Saf-T-Plus. I'm anticipating a better ride, thanks to you all.
Thanks again,

Jim C.
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Old 11-23-2017, 03:39 PM   #2364
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Joke

There was a old journeyman electrician that could stand on one leg and work on hot wires. His younger helper tried it one day and ended in the hospital.
The old man asked what happen,the young man said that he tried what the older one had done standing on one leg, the old man said boy I thought you knew I have a wooden leg.
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Old 11-23-2017, 03:54 PM   #2365
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Originally Posted by Cabangan View Post
Jerry,
Thanks for starting and maintaining this thread. The tips and ideas that you, Dino and many others have been a great help to me. Especially considering we have the same coach.

Sometime around March, shortly after I bought my Windsport 34J, I made a solo trip from San Diego to Jacksonville, FL and back. The winds in AZ, NM and most of TX literally kicked my butt, especially when semi's roared by.

The long and short, I am making the same trip on Sunday with my Daughter and her family. I took your advice and installed Sumo (front and rear) and Saf-T-Plus. I'm anticipating a better ride, thanks to you all.
Thanks again,

Jim C.
Have a great trip Jim and let us know how the ride went.

Only other mod you may want to do if you still need some help with the ride is doing front/rear chf and a rear track bar. Hopefully the sumos and safe t plus is all you need.

Have a safe trip.

Jerry
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Old 11-23-2017, 05:35 PM   #2366
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ewok View Post
There was a old journeyman electrician that could stand on one leg and work on hot wires. His younger helper tried it one day and ended in the hospital.
The old man asked what happen,the young man said that he tried what the older one had done standing on one leg, the old man said boy I thought you knew I have a wooden leg.
An old inside joke among many of the old time industrial electricians I worked with is that the only way that they could feel 120 volts was to lick their fingers. I had an agreement with an electrical engineer that I worked with for years was that if it had enough voltage in it to hurt me it was his work.
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Old 11-24-2017, 02:41 AM   #2367
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Happy Thanksgiving!

Been awhile since I've been active in this thread...

Has anyone had difficulty using the Fantastic Fan, the one over the kitchen area, while the slide is in? I have the 29M plugged into 110v; everything except the fan, seems to be working. Just wondering if the fan won't work unless I have the slide out?...I don't know.
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Old 11-25-2017, 01:18 PM   #2368
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cabangan View Post
Jerry,
Thanks for starting and maintaining this thread. The tips and ideas that you, Dino and many others have been a great help to me. Especially considering we have the same coach.

Sometime around March, shortly after I bought my Windsport 34J, I made a solo trip from San Diego to Jacksonville, FL and back. The winds in AZ, NM and most of TX literally kicked my butt, especially when semi's roared by.

The long and short, I am making the same trip on Sunday with my Daughter and her family. I took your advice and installed Sumo (front and rear) and Saf-T-Plus. I'm anticipating a better ride, thanks to you all.
Thanks again,

Jim C.
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Old 11-25-2017, 01:54 PM   #2369
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We’ve been in the MH over 8 weeks now still waiting to close on our new house. (That’s a whole other story). One of the biggest and most annoying problem we continue to have is the poor design of the toilet and “shelf” which tends to trap solids and toilet paper eventually causing a clog. A water hose, spray nozzle, and lots of water will eventually move the clog off the “shelf”, a nasty job which I’ve had to do numerous times.

I’ve tried adjusting the level of the coach tilting it to the right side hoping this would facilitate draining, this had limited success. Tried flushing the toilet first then “doing business” hoping water on the shelf would help, no luck with this either. Finally gave up, when the toilet plugs out comes the water hose and sprayer, this works but requires a lot of water and time. The “shelf” extends past the edges of the toilet pipe and the the sprayer can’t get to those areas.

Necessity being the mother of invention has led me to the invention of the “SuperD S**t Stick”. Using some scrap pvc and connections I had with me, I glued together and assembled a sprayer that I can insert thru the toilet opening and clean out clogs. With the 90 degree on the end I can swivel the spray around to reach all the corners of the “shelf”.

This is still a nasty job, and shouldn’t have to be done, but the “SuperD S**t Stick” does make it a little easier. Thor execs should have to do this a few times, might make them a little more critical of their s**ty engineers. (pun intended)

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Old 11-25-2017, 02:59 PM   #2370
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Dave,
I'm about 4 months into my stay in mine, but I'm not sure if I have the same issue. I am aware that SOMETHING is not quite right, because it seems that I get odor issues before I should. So
So Do you think my Hurricane 29M has the same tanks as your Windsport? Makes no sense that it would be different, but if it has, I wonder if I'm experiencing the same problem. My Sensor hardly ever goes to empty and after about 2 weeks of use (lately) the "odor issue" causes me to dump. However, I don't think I'm ever much more than 1/2 full. (however, I'm sure some of my friends would say I'm always Full of S**T )
I usually rinse out tank with 3 - 5 gallons of water poured down toilet, and also spray the San-T-Flush a little, then start the new tank with 2.5-3 gallons water.

I have already been thinking about doing something like you have, so Thanx for the design. I'll give it a try when I get some time.

Recie
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Old 11-25-2017, 05:27 PM   #2371
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Recie, check the air admittance valve under the bathroom sink. My valve was just barely screwed in, I removed it, wrapped threads with Teflon tape, and tightened, no more stink! Did the same thing with the valve under the kitchen sink. I also replaced the roof vents with Lippert 360 vents, got them from Amazon.

As far as the tank sensors, they are notorious for not being accurate!
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Old 11-25-2017, 08:41 PM   #2372
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Recie, check the air admittance valve under the bathroom sink. My valve was just barely screwed in, I removed it, wrapped threads with Teflon tape, and tightened, no more stink! Did the same thing with the valve under the kitchen sink. I also replaced the roof vents with Lippert 360 vents, got them from Amazon.

As far as the tank sensors, they are notorious for not being accurate!
Thanx, I'll give it a go. I think I looked for this once and found I will have to remove some paneling that is stapled on

I've replaced my roof vent with the "cyclone"a while back, which really helped for odor traveling done the road. It seems to be functioning as designed sitting still.

Tank sensors: definitely not very good. I've been thinking to implement the mod that is on this forum to make a capacitive level indicator system (Jaimiethe Geek?), but haven't made the connection nor decided if I'm ready for that level of sophistication .
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Old 11-26-2017, 04:43 AM   #2373
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Thanx, I'll give it a go. I think I looked for this once and found I will have to remove some paneling that is stapled on

I've replaced my roof vent with the "cyclone"a while back, which really helped for odor traveling done the road. It seems to be functioning as designed sitting still.

Tank sensors: definitely not very good. I've been thinking to implement the mod that is on this forum to make a capacitive level indicator system (Jaimiethe Geek?), but haven't made the connection nor decided if I'm ready for that level of sophistication .
You wonít have to remove anything to get to the air admittance valves. If you look under the bathroom sink, up and to the left youíll see the valve. For the kitchen sink valve look up and to the right, you wonít have to remove anything to get to either valve.
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Old 11-27-2017, 08:33 AM   #2374
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SuperD,
Thanx for the info on the air admittance valves. It is really nice that you and practically everyone on this forum are really easy to ask and get info that is really helpful.

I found them exactly where you said they were. They weren't "Floppy" loose, but were not really tight. I removed the one in the bathroom, cleaned the Grease/Sealant off, applied T-tape to it and screwed it in until hand tight. The one in the kitchen, I just screwed on in until hand-tight. I'm hoping this will fix the bathroom odor issue.

It is kinda strange that when dumping the black tank, I hear "Gulping" in the tank, like it doesn't have enough vent to provide a continuous flow. Makes me wonder if the Vent is fully open. Just don't really want to disturb the sealant up top and push something down the vent stack, if I can figure another option. I'd have to remove and re-install the Cyclone vent cap on this stack.
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Old 11-27-2017, 11:42 AM   #2375
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Recie, happy to help! Hope that takes care of your odor problem, it fixed mine. Took a while to figure out where it was coming from but after getting the valves tight I haven’t had any more problems.
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Old 11-29-2017, 08:51 PM   #2376
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Screen for front grill

On one of the posts about the whistling grills, someone mentioned how vulnerable the front radiator looked to road debris. I got a little concerned when I looked at my grill config. I've noticed that one of the differences between the Hurricane and the Windsport seem to be the grill so this may be a bit specific to a 2018 Hurricane.

I used 1/4 inch grid "hardware cloth" and spray painted it black to make it less visible. This is the same material I used to make my screens for my exhaust vents though the 1/4 inch grid might prove to be a little big to keep wasps out. A 24"" by 5' roll seemed to fit just right for just the grill. I chose the 1/4 in because any larger was a heavier gauge wire that would have been much more difficult to work with and a smaller grid might slightly reduce the wind flow. The screen fit between the hood and the support brackets (with a lot of tedious measurements and cutting) without having to remove the hood. The zip ties went between the fiberglass hood and the chrome grill so they are not visible from the front. It was quite tedious work so took probably about 6 hours.
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Old 11-29-2017, 09:55 PM   #2377
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On one of the posts about the whistling grills, someone mentioned how vulnerable the front radiator looked to road debris. I got a little concerned when I looked at my grill config. I've noticed that one of the differences between the Hurricane and the Windsport seem to be the grill so this may be a bit specific to a 2018 Hurricane.

I used 1/4 inch grid "hardware cloth" and spray painted it black to make it less visible. This is the same material I used to make my screens for my exhaust vents though the 1/4 inch grid might prove to be a little big to keep wasps out. A 24"" by 5' roll seemed to fit just right for just the grill. I chose the 1/4 in because any larger was a heavier gauge wire that would have been much more difficult to work with and a smaller grid might slightly reduce the wind flow. The screen fit between the hood and the support brackets (with a lot of tedious measurements and cutting) without having to remove the hood. The zip ties went between the fiberglass hood and the chrome grill so they are not visible from the front. It was quite tedious work so took probably about 6 hours.
Nice work. Ive been wanting to do this also. Thanks for the pics

Jerry
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Old 11-30-2017, 01:42 AM   #2378
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Originally Posted by OKDogMan View Post
On one of the posts about the whistling grills, someone mentioned how vulnerable the front radiator looked to road debris. I got a little concerned when I looked at my grill config. I've noticed that one of the differences between the Hurricane and the Windsport seem to be the grill so this may be a bit specific to a 2018 Hurricane.

I used 1/4 inch grid "hardware cloth" and spray painted it black to make it less visible. This is the same material I used to make my screens for my exhaust vents though the 1/4 inch grid might prove to be a little big to keep wasps out. A 24"" by 5' roll seemed to fit just right for just the grill. I chose the 1/4 in because any larger was a heavier gauge wire that would have been much more difficult to work with and a smaller grid might slightly reduce the wind flow. The screen fit between the hood and the support brackets (with a lot of tedious measurements and cutting) without having to remove the hood. The zip ties went between the fiberglass hood and the chrome grill so they are not visible from the front. It was quite tedious work so took probably about 6 hours.

Nice job!!!!!

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Old 12-06-2017, 02:44 PM   #2379
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I used 1/4 inch grid "hardware cloth" and spray painted it black to make it less visible. This is the same material I used to make my screens for my exhaust vents though the 1/4 inch grid might prove to be a little big to keep wasps out...
Very clean install! I did mine similarly using stucco mesh and maybe more cuts to my hands The Axis has 2 fresh air duct intake ports above the radiator "shroud" that I covered as well for critters.
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Old 12-08-2017, 02:33 PM   #2380
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Model: Hurricane 29M
State: New York
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THOR #5875
2018 Hurricane 29M with residential fridge

Hello to everyone,
We currently have a 2017 Axis but have just ordered a 2018 Hurricane 29m, so I will be utilizing many of the great mods I have read about in this thread.

I also received a call from a Thor rep to inform me that due to a shortage of the propane/electric rv fridges we will be getting a residential fridge with its own additional inverter and a generator auto start switch.
Delivery wont be until late Feb to early March so I have plenty of time to start ordering goodies.
Wondering if anyone has installed Hellwig anti sway bars on the F53 chassis and could comment on any improvements, I installed them on our Axis and the difference in handling was incredible.
Thanks,
RJ
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