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Old 05-25-2018, 09:44 PM   #2981
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Originally Posted by jpmihalk View Post
Wow, so sorry to hear that! As it always seems to be for us RV'ersÖ another lesson learned the hard way. Is the Escape a front wheel drive? If so, a dolly will work great (even if it can be more work each time to connect and strap down, etc.) We tow our FWD Cherokee with a Master Tow dolly with surge brakes and it has worked very well for over 15,000 miles so far. We sold our Demco tow bar and all of the flat tow stuff (cables, lights, etc.) and it almost covered the cost of the dolly new.

Yes John, it is FWD and we have the same plan, sell the flat tow equipment and buy a tow dolly!

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Old 05-25-2018, 09:50 PM   #2982
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Originally Posted by JamieGeek View Post
We tow our 2014 Escape on an Acme EZE-Tow dolly:
Attachment 10435
The Escape has gone about 3000 miles on the dolly with nary an issue.
(Also have towed a C-Max Energi on the dolly for about 3000 miles as well without incident.)

Yes our Escape is FWD.
Right on Jamie...that is the system we will have to use too!!

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Old 05-25-2018, 10:06 PM   #2983
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpmihalk View Post
Wow, so sorry to hear that! As it always seems to be for us RV'ers… another lesson learned the hard way. Is the Escape a front wheel drive? If so, a dolly will work great (even if it can be more work each time to connect and strap down, etc.) We tow our FWD Cherokee with a Master Tow dolly with surge brakes and it has worked very well for over 15,000 miles so far. We sold our Demco tow bar and all of the flat tow stuff (cables, lights, etc.) and it almost covered the cost of the dolly new.
We also use the Master Tow dolly with surge brakes and have towed our 2016 Kia Sorento obout 9,000 miles with no issues. The hardest part of the loading/unloading process for us was the coordination effort between my wife and me when she was directing me onto the dolly. I was used to aircraft parking marshallers and didn't understand some of the wife's hand gestures. Once we got that all worked out, it has been a pretty simple process. It takes me less than five minutes to offload and about fifteen to load, strap down, test lights, and be ready to roll. One issue I did have - I purchased a set of magnetic lights to put on the rear roof of the car. After our 5,000 mile trip to California and back, I noticed paint scuffing on the roof of the car from the wires rubbing against it. I bit the bullet, spent a few dollars more, and got a set of identical lights that are wireless and they work very well.
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Old 05-25-2018, 10:28 PM   #2984
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We have a 2014 Ford Escape with AWD. We may want to tow it but should we put it on a full trailler?
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Old 05-25-2018, 10:39 PM   #2985
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Originally Posted by LaurelDolan View Post
We have a 2014 Ford Escape with AWD. We may want to tow it but should we put it on a full trailler?
Yes: I think a full trailer is the only way to tow an AWD modern Escape.

Yup: Page 182 (Escape owner's manual, PDF):
Quote:
Front-wheel drive vehicles CANNOT be
flat-towed (all wheels on the ground) as
vehicle or transmission damage may occur.
You must place the front wheels on a
two-wheel tow dolly. If you are using a tow
dolly, follow the instructions specified by
the equipment provider.
Four-wheel drive vehicles CANNOT be
flat-towed (all wheels on the ground), as
vehicle or transmission damage may occur.
It is recommended to tow your vehicle with
all four (4) wheels off the ground such as
when using a car-hauling trailer. Otherwise,
you cannot recreational tow your vehicle
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Old 05-25-2018, 11:34 PM   #2986
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Originally Posted by DinoC41 View Post
Hello friends and fellow 29M owners! Wanted to give you a heads up on towing vehicles and the hard lesson Angie and I learned a few days ago. We just completed a 9 day trip to visit friends and family. We towed our 2011 Ford Escape XLT and followed the rules and instructions in the owner's manual to the letter. Apparently Ford screwed the pooch yet again. The tranny in the Escape went to Sugar Honey Ice Tea on our way home. After research with some Ford forums, there is ample evidence the Ford Escape with a certain tranny CANNOT be flat towed! The towing system we put on the MH and tow vehicle costed about $3500 and the tranny will cost about the same so it looks like we will eat this unless I can sell the Roadmaster Nighthawk tow bar system on Ebay to offset some of our loss. Come to find out Ford issued an addendum in 2015 advising NOT to tow the Ford Escape but we never got the addendum since we brought our Escape used!! Needless to say I am pissed but it is what it is. Now we have to look for a good tow dolly for our Escape. DO NOT FLAT TOW THE 2010-2011 FORD ESCAPE!!!! Please pass the word!

Dino, I am so sorry my friend!!!
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Old 05-27-2018, 03:03 AM   #2987
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Dino, I am so sorry my friend!!!
No sweat Super D...live and learn I always say!!!!!

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Old 05-28-2018, 05:50 PM   #2988
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Two lines in-Two lines out

So I am installing a second AC on my 29M. Here is what I am proposing to do, install 20 amp Park Power plug by the existing 30 amp plug, run a second 12 gauge cable to under the bed. Run 12 gauge cable from under bed up to where I will be installing the second AC. Hers's where i need your opinion, If I get a Progressive Industries EMS-HW50C can I run the 30 amp existing power through one leg of this and the 20 amp through the other leg? Does the 50 amp rating limit each leg to 25 amps?

I have looked at the Progressive Industries website but could not find any related info. Also sent them an email, but have not received a reply yet.

Thanks
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Old 05-28-2018, 07:02 PM   #2989
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I would call them to get their suggestion on how to protect it.


I said this before that im planning on adding a second ac. Couple questions

What unit are you adding?
What route are you running the wires from the bed to the ac unit

Jerry
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Old 05-28-2018, 07:24 PM   #2990
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Don’t think you can do that. Take Jerry’s suggestion and call, they are nice people and I’m sure they would be glad to help you.
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Old 05-28-2018, 07:57 PM   #2991
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[QUOTE So I am installing a second AC on my 29M. Here is what I am proposing to do, install 20 amp Park Power plug by the existing 30 amp plug, run a second 12 gauge cable to under the bed. Run 12 gauge cable from under bed up to where I will be installing the second AC. Hers's where i need your opinion, If I get a Progressive Industries EMS-HW50C can I run the 30 amp existing power through one leg of this and the 20 amp through the other leg? Does the 50 amp rating limit each leg to 25 amps?

I have looked at the Progressive Industries website but could not find any related info. Also sent them an email, but have not received a reply yet.

Thanks[/QUOTE]
The problem is what to do with the white wire in the 20 amp A/C circuit. The EMS-HW50C has three pass-through circuits L-1, L-2 and common. The entire case is grounded through a ground strap. Tying the two white cables is a no-no as it could be used as a return for one leg of the 50 amp circuits.



The 50 amp service is for a house and RV are the same. The service panel (circuit breaker panel) is where the difference occurs. With a home service panel where 240 volts is required, L-1 and L-2 are controlled by a single double ganged circuit breaker in the service panel and supply 240 volts to a device. If 120 volt service is also required by the same device, a fourth wire is added and known as a common. It provides for a return electrical path for either of the hot legs (L-1 and/or L-2) path In an RV, the service panel divides L-1 and L-2 into two separate 50 amp circuits each with its own common which are attached to a common buss-bar entirely separate from the ground buss-bar.


If you feel the need for an EMS in the separate 20 amp circuit, another 30 Amp EMS with a separate entry service box with a 20 amp circuit breaker would be the way to go.
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Old 05-28-2018, 09:14 PM   #2992
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[/QUOTE] If you feel the need for an EMS in the separate 20 amp circuit, another 30 Amp EMS with a separate entry service box with a 20 amp circuit breaker would be the way to go.[/QUOTE]

Thanks for all the answers. I currently do not have an EMS. That is why I was asking. Didn"t want to buy two 30 amp units if a 50 amp unit would work.

If I connect the two white inputs (12 gauge and 10 gauge) together, wouldn't that put them in parallel? Providing a larger overall crosssectional return path? Assuming that the commons are connected inside the power pillar.
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Old 05-28-2018, 09:41 PM   #2993
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Originally Posted by Makerofsawdust View Post
So I am installing a second AC on my 29M. Here is what I am proposing to do, install 20 amp Park Power plug by the existing 30 amp plug, run a second 12 gauge cable to under the bed. Run 12 gauge cable from under bed up to where I will be installing the second AC. Hers's where i need your opinion, If I get a Progressive Industries EMS-HW50C can I run the 30 amp existing power through one leg of this and the 20 amp through the other leg? Does the 50 amp rating limit each leg to 25 amps?



I have looked at the Progressive Industries website but could not find any related info. Also sent them an email, but have not received a reply yet.



Thanks


This is what I did
ACE mods / upgrades
http://www.irv2.com/forums/showthread.php?p=4079568
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Old 05-28-2018, 10:24 PM   #2994
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If I connect the two white inputs (12 gauge and 10 gauge) together, wouldn't that put them in parallel? Providing a larger overall cross-sectional return path? Assuming that the commons are connected inside the power pillar.

Yes it could be done and work well in most cases. The reason the electrical code does not allow it in houses or RVs is if the 30 amp circuity looses the common connection at the pedestal, you are depending on the GFCI at the post to detect the problem. This is because the 30 and 20 amp circuit breakers are only on the black wire (hot leg). In the best case the EMS will show a low voltage and shut the system down. There is a distinct plausibility the GFCI on the 20 amp plug will trip needlessly because it compares the hot leg with common current and trips if there is a difference. A power surge, as when an A/C cycles, could cause this difference in the common wire at the GFCI.
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Old 05-29-2018, 05:13 AM   #2995
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Originally Posted by churd9 View Post
This is what I did
ACE mods / upgrades
http://www.irv2.com/forums/showthread.php?p=4079568
So you are not using an EMS to protect any of these input lines?
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Old 05-29-2018, 12:01 PM   #2996
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Originally Posted by Makerofsawdust View Post
So you are not using an EMS to protect any of these input lines?


The only thing that isnít is the rear ac when plugged into separate power my rv has one for the 30amp service.
When I need both ac units I plug in into a 50 amp with an y adapter that has two 30 amp legs...I felt that I would probably be using just one ac most of the time so I wanted to be able to use the rear one because if were in the kitchen it is quieter if I did want to protect I could just buy one of the pigtails exís for the ac....
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Old 05-29-2018, 12:03 PM   #2997
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Originally Posted by Makerofsawdust View Post
So you are not using an EMS to protect any of these input lines?


You canít see it but my rv has one for the 30amp service hard wired
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Old 05-29-2018, 01:26 PM   #2998
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Just going to give my opinion based on many years of experience. I have seen several electrical fires caused by someone trying to make something do a job it was not really designed for. Be very careful when making changes to your electrical system and make SURE it’s safe, remember you’re carrying your family with you! Even if I don’t know you I still want you to be safe, I truly hate reading stories with a bad ending.
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Old 05-29-2018, 02:23 PM   #2999
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Iíll add that I can run either the front or rear ac off the generator but not both ...I donít think ....the ac I bought for the rear is rated at 15000 Btu but it is equal to 18500.and only draws 14 amps on high....
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Old 05-29-2018, 07:20 PM   #3000
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Breaker popping

Hi, when I plugged my MH into my house the breaker kept tripping, I have a 50 amp coach but I brought it down with the 110 adapter. I didn't have anything on, so I was wondering why this was happening? Any advise would be helpful.
Tks
Tony
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