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Old 09-09-2018, 04:57 PM   #3501
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Never been a problem for us. I guess because we only use the fan when cooking and you need the lights to cook by. I think I’d do it this way anyway and just replace the ceiling light with one that has a switch on it like we have over our bed. As always, I’m glad to have diverse ideas and opinions on this forum. Great ideas.
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Old 09-09-2018, 05:03 PM   #3502
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Pocket doors!!!

Hello my friends...if you have "pocket doors" in your MH you may want to check the frame and rails at the top of the pocket door(s). My bathroom pocket door in our bathroom was loose and prevented the door from opening and closing properly. I had to tighten the "one" anderson screw at the end of the framing but I fear I will have to secure another screw/bolt to the frame. Take heed guys and gals!!!!

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Old 09-09-2018, 05:09 PM   #3503
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Originally Posted by DinoC41 View Post
In order to operate the fan you have to turn on the overhead lights if you wire said vent fan to the overhead puck lights. What if you want to have the fan on without the lights? Can't do it with that install!!!!! My installation enables you to operate the vent fan whether the lights are on or not!!

All of the overhead lights in our Axis have a switch on them--even the ones that have a wall switch. Thus you can still wire the fan to the light and be able to operate the fan with the light off--provided you can reach the switch.
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Old 09-09-2018, 05:25 PM   #3504
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All of the overhead lights in our Axis have a switch on them--even the ones that have a wall switch. Thus you can still wire the fan to the light and be able to operate the fan with the light off--provided you can reach the switch.
Roger that Jamie but the 29M's overhead lights are not configured that way. The wall switch turns them on and off. Those lights do not have individual off switches like the ones in our bedroom. I also don't think our members know that the vent in the living room did not come with a fan in the 2017 Windsport/Hurricane 29Ms

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Old 09-09-2018, 09:34 PM   #3505
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I have recently installed a remote control MaxxFan in the forward air vent in our Hurricane 29M. The power for the ceiling lights runs through a square conduit along the forward side of the metal housing you described. The conduit is located just above the ceiling with a piece of metal filling in above it. I drilled a 1/2” hole in the conduit and fished the power wires through it to the command center. The command center is located in the cabinet above the door and that is where I picked up the 12 volt power I needed. It was a challenge to run the wires and install the fan but we love the fan and it was well worth it.

As a side note while working in the command center I discovered that the power for our gray and black tank heaters had never been plugged into the switches. What a surprise!

Tom
Tom, Dino - thanks for your detailed replies and photos. This is exactly the info I was looking for.
Question - Tom, where approx. in the metal shroud did you make an opening to locate the conduit, and how large of an opening did you need?
And 2 - Did you try blowing a string through the conduit with a high pressure air nozzle? Some times if there is enough room in the conduit that works well to push through a wire pull string.
And lastly the holding tank heater wiring may be a great place to tie into power if they are 12V as I don't see needing that feature in CA soon.

Thanks Again, Roger
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Old 09-10-2018, 01:08 AM   #3506
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Originally Posted by Warhouse View Post
Tom, Dino - thanks for your detailed replies and photos. This is exactly the info I was looking for.
Question - Tom, where approx. in the metal shroud did you make an opening to locate the conduit, and how large of an opening did you need?
And 2 - Did you try blowing a string through the conduit with a high pressure air nozzle? Some times if there is enough room in the conduit that works well to push through a wire pull string.
And lastly the holding tank heater wiring may be a great place to tie into power if they are 12V as I don't see needing that feature in CA soon.

Thanks Again, Roger
You're welcome Roger and good luck!!!

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Old 09-10-2018, 02:56 AM   #3507
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Warhouse View Post
Tom, Dino - thanks for your detailed replies and photos. This is exactly the info I was looking for.
Question - Tom, where approx. in the metal shroud did you make an opening to locate the conduit, and how large of an opening did you need?
And 2 - Did you try blowing a string through the conduit with a high pressure air nozzle? Some times if there is enough room in the conduit that works well to push through a wire pull string.
And lastly the holding tank heater wiring may be a great place to tie into power if they are 12V as I don't see needing that feature in CA soon.

Thanks Again, Roger
Roger, l have attached a photo showing the hole location and one lined up with the route of the sq tube/conduit over the light and on to the left edge of the command center. The hole is ½” with a rubber grommet installed. If you take down the light you have two 2’ runs to the command center. It is fairly crowded in the tube so I doubt you can blow the string through there. But hey, they’re only 2’ runs. I actually pushed the two wire cable through instead of using a fish tape. The biggest problem was getting the wire turned through the ½” hole.

I actually ran an additional 12V line from the fuse panel to the command center for the fan and other add-ons but I think the tank heaters would be a good source of power. Even in Minnesota I won’t be running the front fan on a day cold enough to be using the heaters.

Tom
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Old 09-10-2018, 03:16 AM   #3508
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Originally Posted by Warhouse View Post
Tom, Dino - thanks for your detailed replies and photos. This is exactly the info I was looking for.
Question - Tom, where approx. in the metal shroud did you make an opening to locate the conduit, and how large of an opening did you need?
And 2 - Did you try blowing a string through the conduit with a high pressure air nozzle? Some times if there is enough room in the conduit that works well to push through a wire pull string.
And lastly the holding tank heater wiring may be a great place to tie into power if they are 12V as I don't see needing that feature in CA soon.

Thanks Again, Roger
Roger, I reread your questions and realized I misled you by calling the sq tube a conduit. Thor used the sq tube as a conduit by running electrical wiring through it. I hope my descriptions makes more sense now.

Good luck, Tom
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Old 09-10-2018, 04:13 AM   #3509
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Originally Posted by TomAndLindaRogers View Post
Roger, I reread your questions and realized I misled you by calling the sq tube a conduit. Thor used the sq tube as a conduit by running electrical wiring through it. I hope my descriptions makes more sense now.

Good luck, Tom
Ok, got it. All makes perfect since. Where you placed the grommet is the 1/2 hole you drilled directly into the square channel/conduit carrying the wiring powering the overhead lighting pucks. Am I correct to assume this channel goes directly to the power center?

Thanks again for taking the extra steps in explaining this Tom. This thread is such a great tool powered by some really amazing and friendly people.
Roger
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Old 09-10-2018, 04:55 AM   #3510
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Ok, got it. All makes perfect since. Where you placed the grommet is the 1/2 hole you drilled directly into the square channel/conduit carrying the wiring powering the overhead lighting pucks. Am I correct to assume this channel goes directly to the power center?

Thanks again for taking the extra steps in explaining this Tom. This thread is such a great tool powered by some really amazing and friendly people.
Roger
Yes, you have to reach for it but you will find the wires in the upper left hand corner. I did take some of the interior cabinet walls apart to get access to the wires. The interior walls are held together with screws so you can take them apart without damaging them.
Tom
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Old 09-10-2018, 04:29 PM   #3511
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Did some minor work on the mh yesterday

1. Reconnect wires in Gen junction box. Used these connectors for the wiring

Morris Products 97102 Insulated... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005FMQ5BQ?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Found one wire insulation was cut at the outer Romex insulation. Luckily there was excess wire under the bed going to the transfer box. Was able to pull it to the junction box.

2. Rewired water heater. Found several loose wire nuts and all wire nuts taped together not individually
The wires leading to the outside control panel were just hanging down. So I put them in an electrical box that I screwed to the back wall

3. Checked all wires going into the breaker box. Several srcews holding the wires to the terminals were loose all tightened

4. Made ramps to drive onto. The front end sits 4-1/2" lower do to slope in driveway. Use 3/4 plywood, screwed and glued


So hopefully with the wiribg done there shouldn't he any arcing of any wires

Only pic I took was of the cut insulation. I post a pic of the ramp later

Jerry
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Old 09-10-2018, 04:32 PM   #3512
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Old 09-10-2018, 09:52 PM   #3513
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Quote:
Originally Posted by halfprice View Post
Did some minor work on the mh yesterday

1. Reconnect wires in Gen junction box. Used these connectors for the wiring

Morris Products 97102 Insulated... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005FMQ5BQ?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Found one wire insulation was cut at the outer Romex insulation. Luckily there was excess wire under the bed going to the transfer box. Was able to pull it to the junction box.

2. Rewired water heater. Found several loose wire nuts and all wire nuts taped together not individually
The wires leading to the outside control panel were just hanging down. So I put them in an electrical box that I screwed to the back wall

3. Checked all wires going into the breaker box. Several srcews holding the wires to the terminals were loose all tightened

4. Made ramps to drive onto. The front end sits 4-1/2" lower do to slope in driveway. Use 3/4 plywood, screwed and glued


So hopefully with the wiribg done there shouldn't he any arcing of any wires

Only pic I took was of the cut insulation. I post a pic of the ramp later

Jerry

Well done Jerry!!!!


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Old 09-11-2018, 12:14 AM   #3514
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Old 09-11-2018, 12:20 AM   #3515
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That's the same place my wires were cut in the junction box coming from the generator, and in our case it caused a fairly significant fire that completely melted the junction box.
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Old 09-11-2018, 02:10 AM   #3516
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Great job Jerry, love the ramps!!!
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Old 09-11-2018, 02:19 AM   #3517
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I made a similar set about 18 months ago so I could get under our ACE to upgrade shocks to Koni’s and install the rear track bar. Mine are made from 2x10’s - not cheap - almost $100 worth of lumber to make 4 sets. I found the plans on IRV2 but couldn’t find them again.

I put the leveler pads on the second from the top step so the chocks would have something to sit on
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Old 09-11-2018, 02:23 AM   #3518
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I picked up a set of these ramps (Amazon) for the front wheels when we back in our Axis in the driveway. No assembly required LOL.
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Old 09-11-2018, 03:21 AM   #3519
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I picked up a set of these ramps (Amazon) for the front wheels when we back in our Axis in the driveway. No assembly required LOL.
I saw those Jamie. They raise the front 2" to much. Using the plywood allowed me to raise just what I needed to level..

Both ramps were made from one sheet of plywood @$40 at home depot
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Old 09-11-2018, 08:39 PM   #3520
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New Class A cover will fit from 28 to 31ft.

Hi, I bought a Elements Premium Cover that will fit a 28 to 31 ft class A motorhome. I have never used it, (lucky enough to find indoor storage) it has never been out of the bag. If you are interested in it let me know, I live near Huntsville, AL, asking $250.00 it's pretty heavy probably would cost too much to ship.
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