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Old 07-23-2020, 09:18 PM   #4861
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State: Arkansas
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THOR #19565
Quote:
Originally Posted by t0lbert View Post
so it doesnt come with screws? you bought those pan heads?


do you know what you screwed into? is there backer board there?
It's not a backer board. The Windsport is basically built with a 1.5 inch thick structural insulated panel (SIP)

On one side is aluminum and the interior side is thick polyurethane.

In the shower you have a shower pan with 1/2 inch lip and the shower wall cover buttons to the walls with snaps.

The factory does not install caulking between the pan and the wall because the wall is rather flimsy.

The dispenser comes with 3m tape but the wall material is coated and I did not want to deal with it falling.

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Old 07-24-2020, 04:22 AM   #4862
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Model: Windsport 29M
State: Nevada
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THOR #11264
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Originally Posted by t0lbert View Post
the 10 fuse in the back of the pioneer looks intact. i will check the gfi in the bathroom tmw. thanks!

Did you ever find the problem with power to your amp?
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Old 07-24-2020, 04:54 AM   #4863
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Model: hurricane 34J
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THOR #19488
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Originally Posted by BattleBorn1 View Post
Did you ever find the problem with power to your amp?



yes, answered it a couple posts back.


i found a 15amp fuse sitting in the back of the battery bay, that i could only see when i went on my back underneath the coach and looked into the bay from behind. was a inline fuse...yellow line into fuse, then red line. was blown.
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Old 07-24-2020, 05:55 AM   #4864
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THOR #3156
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Originally Posted by t0lbert View Post
silicone just for added strength?
Yes Sir
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Old 07-24-2020, 05:21 PM   #4865
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Model: hurricane 34J
State: California
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THOR #19488
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Originally Posted by halfprice View Post
Another mod this morning

I bought a progressive industries hard wired surge protector/electrical management system

Had to disconnect the shore power wiring going into the transfer switch. This wire hoked into in incoming side of the unit. Ran 10 guage from the out going side into the transfer switch

This puts the prorector in line from the shore power to the transfer switch

Ran the display meter cable behind the fuse/breaker box and up just above. Cant see the cable which is nice

Ill take a black magic marker to cover the bolt and washer

Couple if pics



hey jerry, my area looks different. i got the Progressive Industries 50HW ready to install. should i just cut that black romex coming out the left side of the transfer switch?
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Old 07-24-2020, 05:44 PM   #4866
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Originally Posted by t0lbert View Post
hey jerry, my area looks different. i got the Progressive Industries 50HW ready to install. should i just cut that black romex coming out the left side of the transfer switch?
Progressive recommends the hard wired version of their EMS be installed before the transfer switch. This is in-order to protect the transfer switch. The problem with this is you cannot monitor the generator output. Several have moved the wire coils (they measure amperage and frequency) to the output side of the transfer switch. Mine is installed between transfer switch and the power center. The choice is yours in where you wire the EMS.
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Old 07-24-2020, 07:20 PM   #4867
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THOR #19488
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Originally Posted by Beau388 View Post
Progressive recommends the hard wired version of their EMS be installed before the transfer switch. This is in-order to protect the transfer switch. The problem with this is you cannot monitor the generator output. Several have moved the wire coils (they measure amperage and frequency) to the output side of the transfer switch. Mine is installed between transfer switch and the power center. The choice is yours in where you wire the EMS.



thanks for that information. i have zero room on that right size. i will end up cutting the output side of the switch due to that, same as you.


thanks again.
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Old 07-25-2020, 05:46 AM   #4868
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Originally Posted by t0lbert View Post
hey jerry, my area looks different. i got the Progressive Industries 50HW ready to install. should i just cut that black romex coming out the left side of the transfer switch?
What Beau said.
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Old 07-25-2020, 06:10 AM   #4869
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What Beau said.



got it. did it this evening. not as easy as i thought with those thick gauge wires not moving in unison as needed! but figured it out...thank you all for the help.
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Old 07-26-2020, 08:47 AM   #4870
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Originally Posted by Eeeride View Post
Metalman - yes the switch is a 3-way switch. I found that if I tapped the top and bottom prongs/wires of the switch, I would get the behavior referenced. There are 6 prongs on the switch, 2 on top, 2 in the middle and 2 on the bottom. It was mostly trial and error. But happy with the result and price!



would you mind showing me the LED you got, visited ebay, not too sure which one would work here. great mod.


thank you.
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Old 07-30-2020, 02:38 AM   #4871
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so the lame seiki 40" tv kept losing sound in the living room, so i threw up a vizio with a soundbar attached. the tv was different on the mount, so i redrilled it lower on that wall.
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Old 07-31-2020, 02:57 AM   #4872
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Hope this helps!!

Thanks Dino, how did you know which part to replace or did you just replace them both to avoid any other issues? I'm not sure it's not the controller as when the steps get wet from rain they would "stutter" in and out or not work at all and then dry out and be ok. Thoughts? Still have not been near the coach as the DW is living in it in western KY and I'm still in central NC perhaps mid August when I get free and the estate issues are solved.
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Old 08-03-2020, 01:49 PM   #4873
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THOR #2757
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Originally Posted by Chuck and Mary Ann View Post
Thanks Dino, how did you know which part to replace or did you just replace them both to avoid any other issues? I'm not sure it's not the controller as when the steps get wet from rain they would "stutter" in and out or not work at all and then dry out and be ok. Thoughts? Still have not been near the coach as the DW is living in it in western KY and I'm still in central NC perhaps mid August when I get free and the estate issues are solved.
I saw a video on Youtube that gave me a good clue it was the motor that needed replacement. Remember to wait for the step to extend completely before you step on it. The motor cannot handle the additional torque!!

good luck and stay safe and healthy!

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Old 08-03-2020, 02:10 PM   #4874
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Model: 25.2 Axis
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THOR #3471
Has anyone tried one of these.

Adco DuPont Tyvek RV Windshield Cover for Class A Motorhome - White
Item # 290-2600
Adco logo
(88 Reviews)
Retail:
$99.37
Our Price:
$93.58
You Save:
6%
Confirmed to Fit
2016 Thor Axis Motorhome
CHANGE VEHICLE
24.1
24.2
25.1
25.2
25.3
25.4
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Old 08-03-2020, 03:50 PM   #4875
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Brand: Still Looking
Model: Renegade Valencia 38RB
State: California
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THOR #3156
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Originally Posted by Hugh.vines@att.net View Post
Has anyone tried one of these.

Adco DuPont Tyvek RV Windshield Cover for Class A Motorhome - White
Item # 290-2600
Adco logo
(88 Reviews)
Retail:
$99.37
Our Price:
$93.58
You Save:
6%
Confirmed to Fit
2016 Thor Axis Motorhome
CHANGE VEHICLE
24.1
24.2
25.1
25.2
25.3
25.4
The problem I see with these is the hook up point at the top. Needs to be strapped to something on the roof.
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Old 08-04-2020, 10:47 AM   #4876
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Originally Posted by halfprice View Post
The problem I see with these is the hook up point at the top. Needs to be strapped to something on the roof.
I agree with Jerry! Safety first!!

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Old 08-06-2020, 01:39 PM   #4877
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Model: Hurricane 32A
State: California
Posts: 20
THOR #791
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Originally Posted by halfprice View Post
Ok got up early to beat the heat. Its Sumo Spring install day. Only installed the front and it took about 1 1/2 hours which included clean up.

I started at 830 removing the old bumper stops. Real work started when Dave, Sundance, arrived to supervise at 900. I then raised the front end with the leveling jacks. Installed the drivers side first. Pretty easy job but i credit my supervisor. Drilling took a bit but i used old drill bits. I bought a new 7/16 which the instruction called for but to use it would mean to lower the axle. I left the axle raised and use the bracket as s guide. 3/8 bit worked great and the top bolt went on with no problem.

Started on the passenger side. Got the sumo bolted to the leaf spring. At this time my buddy, Jaime that owns the fleetwood that i helped install his safe t plus and rear track bar shows up. I drill the upper bracket hole. This side is harder to bolt on. The bolt goes in no problem but There is anothet bracket blocking the inside if of the sumo bolt so it was hard to attach the nut. Supervisor gets involved and we lose the nut for a few minutes. Jaime finds it and he bolts it down.

Jaime was happy to contribute. I was hoping Dave and i would be done before he showed up. On well we were close to finishing.

As usual Dave goes home sfter the job is done. He never lets me buy him lunch after working.

Jaime and i do a test run eat.

We did a little city driving and went in and out of several parking lots. Definately makes a difference in driveways. No more rocking.

Some time next week ill try to take it on the freeway to see if i can feel the semi as they get next to me. If i cant do it next week it will be in a few minth when dictor says im clear to drive after my surgery.

Enough typing geres a couple pics.

Jerry



Attachment 5675Attachment 5676Attachment 5677Attachment 5678Attachment 5679Attachment 5680
I don't know if this has been talked about here.... I was going to order a set of Sumo's for my 2014 32A. Was told by a tech guy at Sumo that the rears are a problem because of a frame brace Thor welds to the frame at the location of the top bracket. Anybody else have info on this?
I thought about just doing the fronts but was concerned about the geometry of not having them on the rear as well.
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Old 08-06-2020, 01:50 PM   #4878
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THOR #19397
Regarding thermal management. We took our first trip in our Thor Siesta 24SS and it was 97 degrees ambient on Sanibel Island. The A/C didn't stand a chance against that. With the curtains in place and the A/C off, it was 117 degrees in the cockpit. (IR Gun) The main skylight/vent above the dining/kitchen nook was 138 degrees! Our Solutions:
1) Wrap around exterior vinyl covering that covers both the door windows and the windshield. (Designed for our model)
2) Thermal sun shade for the interior of the windshield (designed for our model).
3) Bought a block of foam and covered the top of it with Reflectix and put it in the skylight. Temp went from 138 degrees to 92 degrees, full sun, 2 in the afternoon.
4) Cut pieces of Reflectix for the Dinette window, Kitchen Window, and Bedroom Window. The entry door already had one.

Results: we are averaging temps in the mid 90s here in St Augustine, and afternoon heat indices between 100 and 110. I have the A/C on the rig set at 82 degrees, and it is achieving and maintaining that.

Next step. There is a large void behind the "crown moulding" at the back of the rig, where the fiberglass end cap is fitted. I'm considering taking the moulding off and putting a serious coat of spray foam back there.
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Old 08-06-2020, 02:03 PM   #4879
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Hurricane 31S
State: Texas
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THOR #6411
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Originally Posted by hexrays View Post
I don't know if this has been talked about here.... I was going to order a set of Sumo's for my 2014 32A. Was told by a tech guy at Sumo that the rears are a problem because of a frame brace Thor welds to the frame at the location of the top bracket. Anybody else have info on this?
I thought about just doing the fronts but was concerned about the geometry of not having them on the rear as well.
Attachment 25414
Thor MC does not weld on the Ford chassis. Ford requires anyone that modifies the F-53 stripped chassis submit complete specifications for the mod along with the machine and specifications used in the welding. Every welder has to be certified by Ford. Only MorRyde has that type of certification in the Elkhart area. <https://www.morryde.com/chassis/>
On my coach there was no problem in installing the rear Sumo springs but it is an 18,000 lb, 190 inch, F-53 chassis and not all chassis are the same.
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Old 08-06-2020, 04:52 PM   #4880
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Hurricane 32A
State: California
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THOR #791
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Originally Posted by halfprice View Post
Well I think I made a big mistake. Bought a cover for the mh

Was a bitch to put on by myself. Hopefully when I remove it I'll fold it better to make it easier to put back on. Factory folding was tucked in side.

Needed the cover as the decals were starting to fade and crack

Time well tell if it was worth buying

JerryAttachment 18943Attachment 18944
I've been through four covers, one of them was custom made $$$. They all tear. The longest lasting and best one I had was made out of parachute material. It nearly pulled me off the top of the rig one windy day!
I'm done with covers, spent hundreds of dollars. I hope you have better luck than I did.
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