Jerry's Hurricane mods

[trod211]

Originally Posted by halfprice

The plates arent really needed. Most people never extend the links. I did it because i had the ability to do so. I just like having the sway bar arms close to level

If you really want them go to irv2 and search for TeJay. He pretty much took over the huge chf thread over there. Hes been making and selling them for about $50. Hes the one that came up with the plate idea in the first place

A local welding shop should be able to make them for you fairly easy. Heres a guide/ template for you. BUT use 2 pieces of 4" plate not 3 and 4. TeJay took this pic that he made for his. He already extended his link a bit so his plate didnt need as much lenght

Jerry Attachment 9130

Thanks Jerry

[halfprice]

Making the plate and drilling the 2 bottom mounting holes is the easy part. The plate has to to be mounted to the sway bar arm then leveled. Once level, or where you want the arm, then the top holes have to be marked and drilled. Using the top link as a guide slide it across the top plate marking it at the stock and chf position

Hope this makes sence

Jerry

[trod211]

[QUOTE=halfprice;109565]Making the plate and drilling the 2 bottom mounting holes is the easy part. The plate has to to be mounted to the sway bar arm then leveled. Once level, or where you want the arm, then the top holes have to be marked and drilled. Using the top link as a guide slide it across the top plate marking it at the stock and chf position

Hope this makes sence

Jerry

Yes. Gonna crawl under tomorrow so I can see it. Will make more sense then I am sure

[cobrasp58]

Hi Everyone, I've been following this thread for a few months now and have completed a bunch of the mods that have been posted. This is a great way to relay information to other owners. I've done the CHF, Curtains behind the drivers station, replaced heating vents, added a steering stabilizer, did the engine cowl with DynaMax along with under the floor of the driver and passenger plus other some fixes.
I've learned a lot from just reading all the posts, so please keep up the great ideas there're very helpful.

Tony

[SuperD]

Originally Posted by cobrasp58

Hi Everyone, I've been following this thread for a few months now and have completed a bunch of the mods that have been posted. This is a great way to relay information to other owners. I've done the CHF, Curtains behind the drivers station, replaced heating vents, added a steering stabilizer, did the engine cowl with DynaMax along with under the floor of the driver and passenger plus other some fixes.
I've learned a lot from just reading all the posts, so please keep up the great ideas there're very helpful.

Tony

Thank halfprice (Jerry) for starting this Great thread. There have been many contributors, but Jerry started it all !!! Hard to believe this started as one page and now has grown to almost 140, WOW

[Rich&Cathy]

Love it!

[Steamboat]

Originally Posted by jdharrington

Thanks Jerry, I will try next time in the rig.

I thought I had the same issue with our ACE. Could not get the drivers seat to turn all the way around to the living area. I was messing with it one day I moved the seat forward as far as it would go and lifted the reclining lever up and pushed the seat back forward. That provided enough room to swivel the seat so it faced toward the living area.

[cobrasp58]

I saw a post about using Dynamat on the engine cowling, so I tried it and it does make a big difference. I took off the original insulation that Thor had on the cowl (which wasn't on properly) and replaced it with Dynamat, then put the original stuff over that. I also placed Dynamat under the drivers and passengers floor, from under the MH. Between both of those additions it sounds about half as loud, we can have a normal conversation and when I'm on the phone thru the MH the person on the other end can actually hear me clearly. I would recommend this to everyone.

Tony

[VinceAndPam]

Where did you get the material Tony?

Thanks!

[VinceAndPam]

Originally Posted by trod211

Thanks Dave! Yeah for sure going to start there. If I cant find anyone to make those spacers like Jerrys what do yall suggest?

I ordered a set of Hellwig 7962 11-14" Adjustable Endlinks and installed them in the inner holes. The links are adjustable and allow the sway bar to set level and also not bind and limit travel when the motorhome is raised all the way up on the levelers. The only thing you have to do is pop the metal bushing sleeve out of the OEM link and pop them into the Hellwig links, no biggie. We traveled over 6000 miles last fall on a two month trip and the rig drove great. Link to Hellwig endlinks on Amazon.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Vince

[trod211]

Originally Posted by VinceAndPam

I ordered a set of Hellwig 7962 11-14" Adjustable Endlinks and installed them in the inner holes. The links are adjustable and allow the sway bar to set level and also not bind and limit travel when the motorhome is raised all the way up on the levelers. The only thing you have to do is pop the metal bushing sleeve out of the OEM link and pop them into the Hellwig links, no biggie. We traveled over 6000 miles last fall on a two month trip and the rig drove great. Link to Hellwig endlinks on Amazon.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Vince

Thanks!!

[cobrasp58]

Originally Posted by VinceAndPam

Where did you get the material Tony?

Thanks!

Here is the stuff I used for the cowling and underside. I got it from Amazon of course, the Items I bought were Dynamat 30' of tape and Fat Mat Self-Adhesive rattle trap sound deadener Pack which was 25sq ft. I did some research on the matting and found this stuff to be just as good as Dynamat, but you could get more of it for a lower price. It was very easy to use and work with, just remember the old insulation needs to be removed (try to save it and put it over the Fat Mat) the new stuff needs to go directly on the cowling. I had enough tape left over, to place the original insulation over the Fat Mat and tape it properly.
I've included the links below.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Tony

[cobrasp58]

Vince

I bought the items from Amazon (Of course), I included the links below. The material I used was Dynamat Tape 30' and Fat Mat Self-Adhesive Rattle Trap Sound Deadener Pack 25sq ft' x 80 mil thick. The Fat Mat was cheaper than Dynamat, works just as good, plus you could get more for your money.
You need to remove the original insulation from the cowl and put the Fat Mat on first, tape all the seams, hopefully you were able to save the original insulation, place that over the Fat Mat and tape it in place. I had enough tape to do both and the Fat Mat is pretty easy to work with (remember its very sticky). Between both of them it made a big difference, hope this helps.

Tony


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[werbrichfamily]

Since we upgraded to a class A Thor from a class C Gulfstream, we have been reading these posts and mods many of you have done. While we only got to use it once before the winter, we finally got is back from RV shop to add a few things. While driving it home from Harrisburg after we bought it, I was blown all over the road. Scary and not relaxing drive!
I wanted a rear trac bar to stabilize and service dept recommended a blue ox true center steering stabilizer instead of safe T plus. I think they were trained on blue ox, plus it does have a switch they put on my dash that I can re calibrate when driving for road surface. I also had them do an alignment and found it was off center to right (toe -.54)
While driving back home after the install, the RV was much more stable and steering more true. Glad I got the alignment done too. Next on the wish list may be the tire pressure monitoring system or the Kona shocks.

[LaurelDolan]

I saw your curtain idea and we'll be in the Southwest in August. I told my husband and being the packrat that he is, he remembered seeing the brand new in the bag side curtains from a long discarded patio gazebo. The worked perfectly. They had loops on top and a center zipper and tie backs and were the right length. He installed a rod right behind the cab bunk. Bonus was that it's color was taupe and matched our unit so well like it was made for this purpose. Thanks for the tip.

[DinoC41]

Originally Posted by LaurelDolan

I saw your curtain idea and we'll be in the Southwest in August. I told my husband and being the packrat that he is, he remembered seeing the brand new in the bag side curtains from a long discarded patio gazebo. The worked perfectly. They had loops on top and a center zipper and tie backs and were the right length. He installed a rod right behind the cab bunk. Bonus was that it's color was taupe and matched our unit so well like it was made for this purpose. Thanks for the tip.

Fantastic!!! If you could take some pictures and share with the rest of the group I am sure they would appreciate that!!!!

Well done!

[DinoC41]

Hello everybody,

Received a notification today from one of our local TV stations today announcing a recall of the Instant Pot Gem 65 (8-in-1) Multicooker. If you have this cooker, stop using it ASAP and contact the manufacturer or the place you bought it!!

[Tom Bowe]

Built this little chest to fit on the narrow ledge behind the toilet. I painted it rather than staining because I was afraid I wouldn’t get a good match with Thor’s finish. 6 inch full extension drawer slide had to be ordered from China.

Useful for shavers, brushes, etc.

[BandG]

Originally Posted by werbrichfamily

Since we upgraded to a class A Thor from a class C Gulfstream, we have been reading these posts and mods many of you have done. While we only got to use it once before the winter, we finally got is back from RV shop to add a few things. While driving it home from Harrisburg after we bought it, I was blown all over the road. Scary and not relaxing drive!
I wanted a rear trac bar to stabilize and service dept recommended a blue ox true center steering stabilizer instead of safe T plus. I think they were trained on blue ox, plus it does have a switch they put on my dash that I can re calibrate when driving for road surface. I also had them do an alignment and found it was off center to right (toe -.54)
While driving back home after the install, the RV was much more stable and steering more true. Glad I got the alignment done too. Next on the wish list may be the tire pressure monitoring system or the Kona shocks.

Did you get the rear trac bar in addition to the front stabilizer?

If so, which trac bar did you go with?

I ask because I am really thinking I will want both of these.
Just deciding on which order I get them.

Thanks.

[halfprice]

I put on an Ultra rear track bar at Brazzels. It made the biggest improvement on my ride and stability