Jerry's Hurricane mods

[JamieGeek]

Hmm that doesn't look like how I was told to hook the straps on. In this pic:

You have the rear hooks to the straps hooked under the very back of the dolly.

It was my understanding that they should hook between the holes just in front of there (looking for picture)...Nope don't have any pictures.

Ah go to their website and watch the video (https://cartowdolly.com/) at 5:30 you'll see how the straps are hooked to the dolly.

Also note in the video they recommend using a zip-tie to hold the safety chains in place. When we first got ours they didn't recommend that and for the first few trips I found the safety chains dragging along the cement not really helping before I started zip-tying them in place.

[SuperD]

I have a better solution for dragging chains, I use a couple of short bungees to pull up slack in the chains. The bungees keep the chains off the pavement but still allow tight turns and they don’t have to be replaced like zip ties. I’ve been using bungees on my chains for many years to prevent dragging and they work well.

[JamieGeek]

Here is a screen grab from the video showing how to hook the straps into the dolly:

[JamieGeek]

Originally Posted by SuperD

I have a better solution for dragging chains, I use a couple of short bungees to pull up slack in the chains. The bungees keep the chains off the pavement but still allow tight turns and they don’t have to be replaced like zip ties. I’ve been using bungees on my chains for many years to prevent dragging and they work well.

I was referring to the safety chains between the car and the dolly, not the ones between the dolly and the RV. (If you were also referring to these then forgive me for thinking otherwise.)

These guys: (another screen grab from ACME's video)


Note the black zip ties keeping them from lifting out of the channel they are in. I believe this advice is specific to the ACME dolly.

[jb1911]

If you always tow the same vehicle you can cut off a lot of excess chain and permanently solve the problem of dragging chains.

[gnach]

Originally Posted by thor293

This definitely applies to ACE coaches and I assume it may be all the Thors.

Today I decided I was going to line the inside of the front cap with reflectix and stuff it full of insulation. Its 80 outside and the rv is in my building so I decided to turn the AC on for comfort. While working up in the cap area I though, Man those ac vents really push some air up here, then I though "WAIT A MINUTE" I pulled the round vent closest to the drivers seat down and found out that they did not block the tunneling for the ac at the end of that vent, a HUGE amount of the ac was actually blowing up into the cap area!
I blocked it with some foam board and tape, the single AC now has the inside down to 67*...snip...

Yes, I saw the situation with our Axis. I'm thinking I can fill the unblocked tunnel past the last vent, both front and back, with spray foam. I'll look for a low expansion foam to prevent overfilling back to the vent and maybe stuff some newspaper in first. Thanks for the tip and to photos.


The back cap on ours is unisulated, I don't know about the front but will invetigate.

[thor293]

Originally Posted by gnach

Yes, I saw the situation with our Axis. I'm thinking I can fill the unblocked tunnel past the last vent, both front and back, with spray foam. I'll look for a low expansion foam to prevent overfilling back to the vent and maybe stuff some newspaper in first. Thanks for the tip and to photos.


The back cap on ours is unisulated, I don't know about the front but will invetigate.

If your are gonna use spray foam use the window and door foam, it is low expansion. I know my rear cap isnt insulated and I would be surprised to hear that they insulated your front cap. My guess is it is not. I am sure yours is like ours and the heat just radiates up from the sun beating on it. I also made a reflectix window shade for the windshield.

[DinoC41]

Originally Posted by JamieGeek

Hmm that doesn't look like how I was told to hook the straps on. In this pic:

You have the rear hooks to the straps hooked under the very back of the dolly.

It was my understanding that they should hook between the holes just in front of there (looking for picture)...Nope don't have any pictures.

Ah go to their website and watch the video (https://cartowdolly.com/) at 5:30 you'll see how the straps are hooked to the dolly.

Also note in the video they recommend using a zip-tie to hold the safety chains in place. When we first got ours they didn't recommend that and for the first few trips I found the safety chains dragging along the cement not really helping before I started zip-tying them in place.

Right on Jamie...good catch!!

[thor293]

Originally Posted by cobrasp58

Hi Everyone, I'm having a problem with my coach being level once I open the slide. Its a 29m and after setting the jacks to level with the auto level function I open the slide. But, when the slide is fully open and we look at it or walk around it feels and looks tilted (my granddaughter walks around in it like she's drunk). I was told not to try and re-level it once the slide was out, because it could twist and screw up the slide functioning correctly later on. Any suggestion would help!

I extend my slide 29.3 ace full wall slide, then level. Not had a problem

[Classictint]

Originally Posted by thor293

I extend my slide 29.3 ace full wall slide, then level. Not had a problem

I noticed my 29M looking crooked after leveling then opening the slide too this past weekend I’ll do it in reverse order next time

[halfprice]

Originally Posted by Classictint

I noticed my 29M looking crooked after leveling then opening the slide too this past weekend I’ll do it in reverse order next time

Dont know if thats a good idea. Leveling with it open will put a lot of stress on the slide.

Lance are you using the auto level or manual level.

I use manual only now. If youre leaning a bit after the slide is out retract it then lift that side a bit then extend the slide

Jerry

[Shawn62]

Originally Posted by SuperD

I have a better solution for dragging chains, I use a couple of short bungees to pull up slack in the chains. The bungees keep the chains off the pavement but still allow tight turns and they don’t have to be replaced like zip ties. I’ve been using bungees on my chains for many years to prevent dragging and they work well.

I started using bungees a few years back. I use the adjustable bungees with multiple slots or holes in them. DO NOT TWIST the safety chains to make them shorter. Chains are not designed to take a load twisted or knotted. The chain will break quicker under a shock load.

Shawn

[Classictint]

Originally Posted by halfprice

Dont know if thats a good idea. Leveling with it open will put a lot of stress on the slide.

Lance are you using the auto level or manual level.

I use manual only now. If youre leaning a bit after the slide is out retract it then lift that side a bit then extend the slide

Jerry

I have only used “auto” but will play around with it manually. this past weekend when we were camping I saw the motorhome from the front and noticed it slightly leaning it wasn’t super bad or anything

[halfprice]

New sumos installed. Took about 30 minutes. Plus sibce i was under the mh i added dynamat to the under side floor driverside.

New sumos raised the front end only 1/2" didnt check the rise with the other set i had.

Pic is with the coach lifed to level it in the driveway. We raised and lowered it several times. The sumos line up perfectly while lowering.

Not very good pics of the dynamat. I went to the very front of the cab to the rear. Maria said it made a big difference in floor heat on her side duribg out trip to and from kernville. Outside temps were 100* i felt some heat but since i wear shoes while driving it didn't bother me much. But maria said i should do all of it so i did. Should help my feet also

Jerry

[DinoC41]

Originally Posted by halfprice

New sumos installed. Took about 30 minutes. Plus sibce i was under the mh i added dynamat to the under side floor driverside.

New sumos raised the front end only 1/2" didnt check the rise with the other set i had.

Pic is with the coach lifed to level it in the driveway. We raised and lowered it several times. The sumos line up perfectly while lowering.

Not very good pics of the dynamat. I went to the very front of the cab to the rear. Maria said it made a big difference in floor heat on her side duribg out trip to and from kernville. Outside temps were 100* i felt some heat but since i wear shoes while driving it didn't bother me much. But maria said i should do all of it so i did. Should help my feet also

JerryAttachment 11360Attachment 11361Attachment 11362Attachment 11363

Nice job on both projects...Is it me or do the sumos look out of alignment in the pictures????

[SuperD]

Jerry, are the new Sumos urethane, the old ones looked like they were rubber. Nice job, like the blue color!

[halfprice]

Originally Posted by SuperD

Jerry, are the new Sumos urethane, the old ones looked like they were rubber. Nice job, like the blue color!

From the manufacturers webdite

"They are manufactured from proprietary closed micro-cellular urethane providing a smooth and progressive spring rate."

[halfprice]

Originally Posted by DinoC41

Nice job on both projects...Is it me or do the sumos look out of alignment in the pictures????

Dino,
Its just the angle of the pic plus i raised the front end up a lot to level. Whem lowered the line up great

[Classictint]

The Sumos look good Jerry ! I’ll be at Kern next week I hope you didn’t catch all the trout [emoji1]

[halfprice]

I left you a few. I caught several with a gold kastmaster but my main rig was 1/4 egg weight with carolina keeper 2-3ft above a power mouse tail in reg egg nightcrawler color tail

Jerry