Jerry's Hurricane mods

[TonyStuart]

Wanted it in tan but couldn’t find one so utilized it anyway for practical purposes.

[TonyStuart]

This is a pic of the side windows that I could push on the top of the bottom one and change the air noise. When I went outside to look at the seal I could literally place a knife blade between the windows into the inside.

[TonyStuart]

What’s recommended for waxing this fiberglass clear coat?! Mine is oxidizing badly. TIA!!

[TonyStuart]

Has anyone tried putting a set of Alcoa 19.5 x 6 on an rv like mine? Wheel company says they will fit. Local Ford dealer says no. For the dual wheels in back the rims must ride on the lip on the hub. I had this issue with a topkick I had and had to buy two steel inners. I’m being told Alcoa’s are thinner and the second rim will catch the lip as necessary. I like the looks of alumnimum but also wanted the less weight bouncing up and down. 15-25 lbs per wheel exact weight equates up to 7x that when in motion I’m told. Seems logical to reduce wear and tear on components.

[BYoshida]

Originally Posted by TonyStuart

Wanted it in tan but couldn’t find one so utilized it anyway for practical purposes.

Ohhhh. I've been looking at this on Amazon wondering if it would work for our Vegas without being in the way. How do you have it stuck to your carpet? Or do you just use it freestanding?

[Metalman]

Originally Posted by TonyStuart

Has anyone tried putting a set of Alcoa 19.5 x 6 on an rv like mine? Wheel company says they will fit. Local Ford dealer says no. For the dual wheels in back the rims must ride on the lip on the hub. I had this issue with a topkick I had and had to buy two steel inners. I’m being told Alcoa’s are thinner and the second rim will catch the lip as necessary. I like the looks of alumnimum but also wanted the less weight bouncing up and down. 15-25 lbs per wheel exact weight equates up to 7x that when in motion I’m told. Seems logical to reduce wear and tear on components.

I'd like to know if 19.5 wheels will fit. My concern is with the front wheels.

The hydraulic hoses for the levelers scare me. I have removed the front left jack a few times because it was leaking and those hoses are very stiff and can't be bent at too small a radius without kinking. I wonder what caused yours to break?

[Metalman]

Originally Posted by TonyStuart

Wanted it in tan but couldn’t find one so utilized it anyway for practical purposes.

The console looks great. But I wonder if my long leg could maneuver around it getting in and out of the driver's seat. Do you have a problem getting your right foot and leg around the console?

[TonyStuart]

I positioned the console as close to the dash as possible yet can use the controls. I unscrewed the plastic oem one and screwed this one back down thru the cowling with no issues. I’m 6 foot 280 and can get in and out easily by sliding the seat backwards. I can still get in and out it’s just easier with the seat all the way back. This console also has a plug in power port which is just an added bonus.

As for the hydraulic hose I’m thinking something bounced up and hit it or when installing the air bags they may have drilled the frame and the bit hit the line just enough to weaken it. I’ll know more about the last thought when I get a bag replaced because the alignment shop raised the coach/axle on the leveling jacks without letting the air out of the bags and stretched one past it’s limits. Good to hear the mechanics ear drum is ok after it let go!

[TonyStuart]

I already have 19.5 rims but they are 6.5 wide. Aluminum are 6 but all research says that’s fine. My concern was being able to use two aluminum ones on the back duals.

[Metalman]

Originally Posted by TonyStuart

I already have 19.5 rims but they are 6.5 wide. Aluminum are 6 but all research says that’s fine.

I don't know why I asked about the 19.5 rims. That is what I have. I was thinking 22.5 instead of the 19.5. I don't image they would fit and function well, but our last RV with 22.5 wheels dealt with the bumps a lot better than this one.

[TonyStuart]

I went with 22.5 over oem 19.5 on a topkick and it was like going from riding a brick to a ball. Unbelievable difference. I would love to do that on this rv but they won’t fit. Easy decision for me if they would. Hoping the mods, suspension add ons and the lighter wheels will help. Sucks to spend 60g+ on something and have to spend another 10g to make it how it should have been to begin with. Make it 70g and have happy customers without the hassle!!!

[Metalman]

Originally Posted by TonyStuart

I went with 22.5 over oem 19.5 on a topkick and it was like going from riding a brick to a ball. Unbelievable difference. I would love to do that on this rv but they won’t fit. Easy decision for me if they would. Hoping the mods, suspension add ons and the lighter wheels will help. Sucks to spend 60g+ on something and have to spend another 10g to make it how it should have been to begin with. Make it 70g and have happy customers without the hassle!!!

$10g is a drop in the bucket. Keep your checkbook handy. Just repairing things that break is big bucks. Modifications are bigger bucks. If I made a list of all the problems I've had with motor homes in the past 20+ years, I'd never step in one again.

[TonyStuart]

Update about wheels and hydraulic hose!

The new Alcoa’s and two new Michelin steer tires made all of the difference in the world. Even the guys at Pomp’s tires were impressed with the difference in balancing necessary between the steel rims and aluminum. Expensive but in my opinion worth it. The ride is smoother and not harsh on bumps! Hose was hit by a drill bit when the bags were installed. Issue resolved. Kudos to Airlift for replacing the broken bag as well. Great company!

[Warhouse]

Originally Posted by TonyStuart

Update about wheels and hydraulic hose!

The new Alcoa’s and two new Michelin steer tires made all of the difference in the world. Even the guys at Pomp’s tires were impressed with the difference in balancing necessary between the steel rims and aluminum. Expensive but in my opinion worth it. The ride is smoother and not harsh on bumps! Hose was hit by a drill bit when the bags were installed. Issue resolved. Kudos to Airlift for replacing the broken bag as well. Great company!

Lot's of back and forth on this wheel topic. Just to be clear, you went with Alcoa 19.5 x 6 wheel replacements with Michelin tires in the front only? Did you leave the steel in the rear?
Finally which Mich's did you go with?

Thanks and stay safe.

[TonyStuart]

Originally Posted by Warhouse

Lot's of back and forth on this wheel topic. Just to be clear, you went with Alcoa 19.5 x 6 wheel replacements with Michelin tires in the front only? Did you leave the steel in the rear?
Finally which Mich's did you go with?

Thanks and stay safe.

Michelin XRV. Probably would have been ok using the oem GoodYears but went ahead with new steers and put old ones on the steel rims for spares. I used Buy Truck Wheels and got all six aluminum rims. Alcoa-4 durabright and 2 level for 2785. I was told the Accuride holes are different and sometimes the centering sleeves won’t work but they fit the Alcoa’s ok but I’ll probably order the correct ones as the length is different. The wheel size is 19.5 x 6. To use the steel inners I would have needed to buy 6 wide steels to match the aluminum although the tire place said they see it all the time but I think I have air balancers on the wheels so I couldn’t adjust pressure to each tire individually to keep the circumference of each close. Still can’t get over the difference in ride. 85 psi in front and 90 in the rear.

[TonyStuart]

Wrong tire sorry. I ordered the xrv but it wasn’t available so went with XZE-2.

[DinoC41]

Attachment 13543

Originally Posted by halfprice

And another mod today. I've been busy the last couple days. Think I need a vacation. Retirement isn't suppose to be this much work

Anyways the shower has always been a problem. I'm 6'4". Maria is 5'1". I use the oxygenic shower head. Maria hates it because the water always hits her in the face. So she uses the cheap stock shower head on the bottom bracket made to hold the hose.

So I have to change the oxygenic and cheapy stock shower head after each other shower. Its a pain in the butt

Well amazon to the rescue again

Dura Faucet Shower Slide Bar for... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HYIA3R6?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Pretty simple straight forward install. Find center, attach top bracket first. The top has to go on first. The bracket only has about 1/4"-1/2" clearance. Then level and attach bottom bracket.

I didn't use any caulking on the top mainly because I forgot. Water shouldn't splash up there.

I predrilled the bottom bracket holes, squirted caulking in the holes the best I could and caulked the bracket up real good. Then screwed it down.

It feels pretty secure but its an rv so I'm sure it wouldn't take much to rip it from the wall. Only way to really secure it would be to cut an access hole in the wall and use a backing plate. That's a possible do on the 29m because the wall is behind the bathroom sliding door. But for now it secure and looks good

Now the shower head can raise and lower and swivel forward and back. Maria should be happy and now she can use the much better oxygenic shower head.

I might pull out the oxygenics water restrictor for even more water but that might use up the hot water to much. Have to think more about that

I also had to plug the 4 holes left by the stock brackets. Found some white plugs that attach to phillip head screws. Squeezed caulking in and around the holes and just pushed the plugs in with no screw in the hole. should be water tight

Jerry

PS. I think it took longer to write this post than the installAttachment 12963Attachment 12964Attachment 12965Attachment 12966Attachment 12967Attachment 12968Attachment 12969Attachment 12970Attachment 12971Attachment 12972

Great mod Jerry...installed mine today!!

[halfprice]

The motor for my entry step went out after parking the mh after the trip. Glad it went out after the trip.

When closing the door the step would retract as normal but would continue closing even though the step was in. The motor and step kept moving making a loud racheting sound.

I removed the old motor. Looks good. Easy to remove. Three 10mm bolts and a two wire plug. Hardest part was removing the pin that holds the gear arm to the step. I found that pulling the wire plug while the motor is moving will stop the movement mid cycle. This takes the pressure off arm making it easy to remove the pin

Called LCI and tech confirmed it was the motor not the gear box. He said the motor has an internal plastic gear that gets stripped.

Ordered new motor from Amazon

Kwikee 379147 Motor Replacement Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005G21JP2..._2H1XBbNFKDR1T

Pic to follow when I do the install

Jerry

[Metalman]

Just another joy of owning a motor home. I had the gear arm break off about 100 miles from home. I removed the multi step and put it in the trailer. It's not IF something will break, it's WHEN something will break.

[halfprice]

I posted this on the thread about racheting step but I post it here also

Well the drama continues. Got the motor from Amazon, hooked it up and I still get the racheting sound.

Call LCI tech support again. Tech said since its a new motor the control module must be bad. He said its not reading the amps which causes the unit to stop.

So he sending me a new control box for free.

I asked if the gear box could be bad. He said that's a possibility but he believes its the control box

So hes sending a new gear box also for free

It will take a couple weeks to get the parts. Control box is not in stock. That's OK since I'm heading out for an 8 day fishing trip. I'll install it when I get home.

Great customer service from LCI

Jerry