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Old 06-02-2021, 07:44 PM   #41
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Jack pads

Since we usually camp on gravel or dirt I have rigged up some pads with 2X12s . 2 PCs each layer top and bottom layers north and south middle layer is east and west all held together with 3” wood screws with a section of light weight chain about 3ft long to pull them out. Saves the jacks from extending so far out to level the rv.

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Old 06-03-2021, 12:42 AM   #42
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Originally Posted by ducksface View Post
Three things
1 sawzall not circ saw for those mats. I have about 2200sqft of them laid.

2 I just got off the phone an hour ago with a forum memeber who dragged his big foots down the highway for a bit when they activated on their own. I've designed a very simple bypass so the pump can't do that. I doubt it costs $50.

3 divide vehicle weight by pad size until you get psi. There isnt' a reason in the entire world to not add larger pads. The system designer met a price point, not a compulsory limit.
YES! I second the sawzall!!! It certainly would be easier! But my sawzall is a Harbor Freight battery powered cheapo, that's why I suffered with the circ saw.
WARNING! I had black rubber "dust" everywhere! It smells horrible - 🤮 don't breathe that stuff. Do it outside.
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Old 06-03-2021, 12:44 AM   #43
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Originally Posted by Ninjatoto View Post
Since we usually camp on gravel or dirt I have rigged up some pads with 2X12s . 2 PCs each layer top and bottom layers north and south middle layer is east and west all held together with 3” wood screws with a section of light weight chain about 3ft long to pull them out. Saves the jacks from extending so far out to level the rv.
Could you post a pic? Sounds interesting!
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Old 06-03-2021, 02:12 AM   #44
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Do the math. There is not enough added surface area of a snap pad to keep an RV from sinking in hot asphalt. The main purpose of a snap pad, like all gadgets, is to remove money from your pocket. That being said, if an RV park requires pads I do have some camco plastic pads I bought at the goodwill for a couple of dollars but in few years I have had a rig with leveling jacks I have not had to use them.

But my initial thought still holds true, damage to a parking spot is not my concern. The owner of a campground, whether state, federal or private should have a fee structure in place to cover the cost of operating the campground. Part of the cost is maintaining the facilities to include the camp sites. This includes, electric service, water service, picnic tables, roads, and other amenities. If the owner can't or wont implement a fee structure that covers the cost of the business, that is not my concern. If the owner cant or wont spend the money they make to maintain the facilities, that is not my concern. What is my concern is the attitude on this forum of how we are all supposed to make excuses for poorly run businesses and some how give them a pass by spending more our our hard earned money.
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Old 06-03-2021, 02:35 AM   #45
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...damage to a parking spot is not my concern....The owner of a campground, whether state, federal or private should have a fee structure in place to cover the cost of operating the campground.


Because of this thought process I've put you on my ignore list.
There is no need for me to begin to try to appreciate any opinion from someone with your attitude.
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Old 06-03-2021, 03:32 AM   #46
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I guess that fee structure could include a surcharge/deposit to individuals for the privilege of choosing to do indiscriminate damage to the premises. That way everyone would have the freedom of choice... a win-win! It would also keep my fees lower..
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Old 06-03-2021, 08:07 AM   #47
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Even with jack pads, you will still leave an impression or even sink into hot asphalt if camped for any long duration.
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Old 06-03-2021, 12:08 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ducksface View Post
...damage to a parking spot is not my concern....The owner of a campground, whether state, federal or private should have a fee structure in place to cover the cost of operating the campground.

Because of this thought process I've put you on my ignore list.
There is no need for me to begin to try to appreciate any opinion from someone with your attitude.
While I don't put folks on ignore lists: I do have an observation to make:
If you treat the property of others as it it's yours: problems don't happen...

...Off my soapbox now...
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Old 06-03-2021, 12:10 PM   #49
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I agree with you Bob.


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Old 06-03-2021, 02:50 PM   #50
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IMHO the Snap Pads don't add enough heighth to create a dragging issue & certainly don't add enough diameter to keep the jacks from sinking if parked on loose material not to mention for the price they ought to self level for you.
I had 16" squares of 3/4" plywood to place under each jack with a piece of rope tied to them to pull them out, took all of a couple minutes to place them under the jacks & cost nothing due scraps some builder was throwing away.
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Old 06-03-2021, 03:14 PM   #51
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In my experience with them: they DO help an awful lot.
Our pads are 7" across; with a corner cut off of each of them.
(About 40 square inches...)
The Snap Pads added about an inch in all directions, and increased the footage to about 65 square inches...
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Old 06-03-2021, 08:42 PM   #52
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Tex I have the plywood squares as well. I am also not opposed to saving money, the squares worked well, still do but age has started to creep up on me. Anything I can do to stay off these arthritic knees is a bonus. The Snap Pads under most circumstances keep me from crawling around putting down the plywood.
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Old 06-03-2021, 08:58 PM   #53
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Mine are 18x18+ish 3/8" aluminum plate.
They stack well and compactly.
They're flat enough to cause zero height problems and big enough to span most variances on terrain and cover enough sqft so you dont need to center them under the legs...just give them a toss and it'll all be fine. Mine have handles welded to them. I would instead suggest drilling a one inch or so hole and using a bar with a hooked end to place/pick them(no bad knees need be inflamed)

I haven't made it down to the Behemoth(my shop)for pictures or to weigh them for you all. I'll guess they're About 11lbs each.

I highly recommend such a thing.
But
Find a cubby on your RV and have the plate cut to fit that storage area(on a 24.1 I'll suggest the bottom of the rear most passenger side bin)So nice, so easy, so clean, so compact, won't crack or soak up Lord knows what, no splinters, no wear, hose off beautifully, does triple duty as a dinner gong and a griddle top.

(I dont have legs on my 24.1 yet. These are from my little 19ft nitrous toy hauler days)
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Old 06-03-2021, 09:20 PM   #54
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Right back at you duckface. I wish you and others from this forum would have been customers of mine before I retired. I would have made twice as much money and retired 10 years earlier.
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Old 06-03-2021, 11:36 PM   #55
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Flimsy useless footpads...

I posted on this topic a while back. I see the same problem over and over with inferior products. LCI makes footpads that are installed on their Class Bs and all the way up to the larger class As. All made from thin flimsy 1/8 inch steel. The footpad is light, but no match for the weight of a Thor Challenger. It turned them into a salad bowl really fast. All the weight was on the bolt at the end hydraulic ram -you could spin the foot while all the weight was on the bolt that was designed to hold it on. Totally useless! One person I spoke with had 12 sets under warranty from LCI! Those are the feet that are tearing up the blacktop. Snap pads make it worse as the rubber flexes under the weight causing them to bend further and then they pop off. On the Snap pads website, their show you a picture of how to bolt on the snap pad so it won't fall off! It doesn't solve the problem, it just puts a band-aid on it.

I gave up after my first set and cut and welded a custom set out of 1/4 inch steel. Not just thicker, but also wider so as to spread out the weight of the coach on those tarmac surfaces. I live in California and blacktop can get soft in our heat. I've had no more issues. No need for climbing underneath to place wood chocks/load spreaders etc... just did it right - at least I think so. Aptly named 'The Elefoot" it's never left a mark anywhere. I just wish the manufacturers would recognize their issues and address them!
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Old 06-03-2021, 11:42 PM   #56
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Those look like a VERY serious solution!
What can you do for an Equalizer system that is mounted under a Sprinter chassis?
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Old 06-03-2021, 11:57 PM   #57
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Per the EXCELLENT work shown above, it's all a price point point.
There isn't a soul here who can't have such a thing. Most of us just won't meet the price point of the excellent. If those excellent feet are $1,000 would you buy them?
Why not?
A Newell owner would.

How many said:
Give me the best and I'll make it better
vs
How many said:
'Whats your lowest price on mediocre to middling thing's?

You bought adequate, and it is adequate,

If harbor freight sold motorhomes, they'd sell Thor not Newell.
You know that.
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Old 06-04-2021, 12:13 AM   #58
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WOW! Now THAT'S a jack foot! Wish I could buy a set.
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Old 06-04-2021, 12:16 AM   #59
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WOW! Now THAT'S a jack foot! Wish I could buy a set.
I bet a request on craigslist would get a home based welder to make your a set for under $400 powder coated and all.
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Old 06-04-2021, 12:17 AM   #60
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We need to sweet-talk him out of a couple of sets...
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