List of projects and repairs.

[FW28z]

I need to add another project to my list. I discovered the kitchen sink was "sealed" around the periphery with plumber's putty... you know, the stuff that never dries. Since this coach was 2yr old when we bought it, this transgression could have been done by the factory, dealer, or previous owner.

So I have to pull the sink, remove the putty, then silicone it or some other appropriate caulking material - something that will dry and not attract dirt.

[JDHoge]

Okay, I think I get it now. So it would be possible to put a simple water hammer on the output side, too? I guess if you installed one you might not need a bladder type expansion reservoir? Or maybe they could work together?

[blw2]

I installed my fantastic vent cover over the vent opening in the bedroom today.
Also opened up the front vent to verify the the wiring going to the nearby light fixture does pass through the opening under the trim, unlike the bedroom.

So I can add to my list the installation of a fan in that opening.

[FW28z]

Originally Posted by JDHoge

I'd really appreciate seeing what you have.

I found the email from the engineer I talked to, as well as pdfs showing drawings and assembly instructions for the Atwood seats.

If you (or anyone else interested) want to PM me with your email address, I'll send you what I have.

[FW28z]

I started another thread for the E450 Upfitter Dash Modification, but here is a photo of it:



The dash modification replaces the storage bin/coin holder in the upper dash area of the E450. I modified it so that I could use my RVIBrake2 controller.

[FW28z]

Yet another project on my list... fix the stupid antifreeze injector tube on the RV.

From the winterizing thread, I made mention that the antifreeze injector on my coach was a poor installation.



Here is a schematic of the plumbing system for recollection.

The antifreeze tube itself does not have a valve on it. So whether or not the pump sucks air or not depends on the tightness of the plug. I had some banging pipes over the summer, and I discovered when I winterized the water system, that plug was only finger-tight.

So possibly I was getting air into the lines (banging the lines) because of the looseness of the plug.

In reality, the plug should be "wrench tightened" with some plumber's teflon tape. Seems a whole lot easier to just install a valve.

So that is one of my future projects as soon as it is nice enough to go out to the RV.

But in the mean time, I bought a new valve, and more importantly (and what this post is ultimately about), I bought a Pex chnch clamp tool.

This one:



They retail for $100 and up, but I found a new one on eBay of all places for $45. While $100 was a bit pricey, at $45, I bought it. You can by less expensive crimp tools, but they have longer handles, and I was concerned about getting into the various areas of the RV with such a tool.

I have purchased several tools over the years from eBay. And it is a good source as long as you are a bit careful and prudent when buying.

I also found a used one that is currently listed at $5. But it has rust and such on it - although it probably still works fine.

I could have used a Pex SeaTech valve which alleviates the need for crimping, but the antifreeze tube is self-supporting, and I thought the press-on valve might not be as rigid. But I have used Pex SeaTech plumbing parts in my boat with great success, and other than the support issue, I could have used them in my RV.

At any rate, I will have a tool left over from this project for future plumbing use.

Here is a tip:

My feeling is that whenever you contract for any home improvement tasks, whether it be your house, car, RV, or boat, the traditional rule of thumb (at least for houses) is 50% labor and 50% cost of materials.

But when you do it yourself, you are supplying free labor, so the new formula is 50% tools and 50% materials.

So the costs are the same, but you get new tools.

And in my view... tools are expensed for each project. Each new project requires purchase of a new tool.

True story;

When we were remodeling our home's bathroom a few years ago, I needed to install some baseboard trim behind the toilet. Due to the lack of access, I needed a tool.

So, I bought an air compressor and pneumatic nailer to install one piece of trim.

(sorry for the long dissertation, but I am a raconteur afterall).

[blw2]

Originally Posted by FW28z

Here is a schematic of the plumbing system for recollection.

I understand your desire to add a valve in place of the plug. I actually think it's a good idea.....

I haven't gotten into my 1st winterization yet, in my new RV, which is set up just like yours....
but
I have to say I'm not sure that I really understand the need to have this port at all.

1) Seems to me that it adds fittings and lengths of tubing which are potential leaks and potential freeze breaks....

2) If using this port and shutting off the outlet to the tank, there is always the possibility that water will remain between the tank and that first suction side valve.

So wouldn't it be better to just pump the antifreeze from the tank?

3) But if you don't use this port but instead just pour a couple gallons of antifreeze in the tank to feed it through, while not purging this antifreeze port, that line could potentially contain water.

So.... by my logic, any way you skin the cat, having that fill line teed into the suction side is a potential problem.

I would rather feed the glycol through the tank. the only thing wrong with this that i can think of is that it might take a gallon or more just to get the fluid up to the suction port???

Regardless, i'm planning to blow it out only, since I'm in a mild climate, but I may rethink it once I get to that project.....

[JamieGeek]

When you are done winterizing you open the valve at the tank back up which allows any antifreeze in the "injection point" to flow back into the tank (since the tank is empty at this point).

[FW28z]

Yes, it would, except I used the pump to push the antifreeze into the lines. I didn't see any antifreeze backing into the water tank when I returned the valve to normal.

[FW28z]

Actually, I am going to use the odd-ball plumbing to my advantage:



When I have that valve inserted, I can use the antifreeze injection to both fill the water lines with antifreeze as well as fill the tank with a sanitizing solution during spring re-commissioning.

For example;

Antifreeze jug connected to the antifreeze port.

New valve open.
Water tank valve closed.
Turn on pump to fill the water lines with antifreeze.

Spring commissioning:

Connect sanitizing solution to antifreeze port.

New valve open.
Water tank valve closed.
Gravity feed (pump off) sanitizing solution into the water tank.

then...

close new valve.
water line valve open.
run pump to purge antifreeze from water lines with sanitizing solution.

[FW28z]

Originally Posted by blw2

1) Seems to me that it adds fittings and lengths of tubing which are potential leaks and potential freeze breaks....

It was installed by Thor. And I think such ports are pretty common in the industry, even though it adds to the complexity and potentially increases the likelyhood of leaks.

[blw2]

all very valid.
Maybe I'll add a valve too, when I get to it..... except i would likely just do an NPT valve to replace the plug, and not mess with the PEX

[FW28z]

Nothing wrong with adding a valve to the top of the hose. I just wanted an "excuse" to buy a new tool...

Who knows, I might have to fix a legitimate plumbing issue one day, and I will have the crimper to do it.

[blw2]

Hey, I'm with you on that. I subscribe to the same tool buying theory as you!!!

[tlaffourtit]

Originally Posted by FW28z

I found the email from the engineer I talked to, as well as pdfs showing drawings and assembly instructions for the Atwood seats.

If you (or anyone else interested) want to PM me with your email address, I'll send you what I have.

I wouldn't mind any information you found. thanks tim

[sikorge]

Originally Posted by JamieGeek

I really don't do any projects with the intended purpose of increasing the value of my coach. Our RV isn't an investment--its to be used.
With that in mind all of my modifications are to increase the "livability" of the coach, make it ours and in general add things that the manufacturer didn't design in.

One of the biggest/most expensive mods I would like to make you mentioned above: levelers. It would be so nice to pull in, press a button, and watch the coach level itself.

JamieG, I contacted QuadraLeveler about the installation on our Ford E350 chassis.
The reply: In most cases the E-450 kit will work. I will attach an installation guide to help show you where to measure to make sure the cylinders in the kit will work. Please feel free to ask any questions you may have. Thank you



BRANDON LEHMAN

DEALER/RETAIL SALES

Quadra Manufacturing, Inc

(800) 752-9815 ext. 223

blehman@quadraleveler.com

www.quadraleveler.com

[frank guide Jr.]

Looking for steel bracket that holds the bay doors to the frame.

[Forest Grump]

Things I've done:
Put strap on slide out pantry
Put strap on step shelf
Put bumper on bathroom door for when slide is closed
Tossed Harris battery added 2 Trojan 360 Ah 6v batteries
Installed Xantrex 3000 w inverter in sewer bay w 2/0 wires to batteries
Installed marine cut off switch
Added 6 g wires plus HD connector from Trojans to charge my 12 v trolling battery
Installed BatteryMinder desulfonator
Installed 12v Viair inflator, portable.
Replaced stock sewe back pressure valves with better ones, no more stuck valves and sewe odor.
Added a sup panel for inverter powered circuits in power cabinet
Added a second automatic transfer switch to protect and service inverter in power cabinet
Ran wiring to and from above through existing hot air duct cutout to sewer bay electronics
Removed outdoor shower stuff
Installed inverter remote control
Installed 3 X 160 solar panels 8g through roof to 2 gauge in back closet down to sewer bay in conduit to 60 amp pull bus fuse box to 45 amp solar controller with 2 g wire to batteries via conduit, fused at battery.
Installed remote solar controller next to inverter controller
Added shelf to bedroom beside cabinet
Reinforced large bedroom wardrobe shelf brackets
Replaced all bulbs with LED's
Garmin RV GPS
ladder for drop down bunk, stores under bed
Attached board to ladder to hold 2.5 hp outboard motor
Replaced Jensen 212T radio under warranty with 215N, rear camera problems.
Replaced slide controller under warranty.
Learns how to sync slide controllers
Added outside wireless temperature gauge
Automatic engine decoder - w iPad app

Opened up and took pictures of every dead space just to see what was or wasn't there

Had Redlands RV install dash fun with replacement under warranty from Thor.
Install front and rear track bars
Install front Summo springs
Align front and rear wheels
Balance wheels
Weigh coach with tire pressure recommendation, 85 rear, 80 front

Think that's it. Been to Quartzite, Silver Strand SB in San Diego, Doheny SB in San Jan Capistrano, Bolsa Chica SB in Newport Beach, Bakersfield, Twin Lakes in Mammoth Lakes, June Lake, Las Vega, Missoula, Glacier NP, Kootenay NP AB, Banff NP AB, Ice Road AB, Jasper NP AB, Edmnton AB, Calgary, Salt Lake City.

We love it!

[frank guide Jr.]

Originally Posted by frank guide Jr.

Looking for steel bracket that holds the bay doors to the frame.

2011 challenger, model 37kt.

[Beacher]

Originally Posted by JamieGeek

I really don't do any projects with the intended purpose of increasing the value of my coach. Our RV isn't an investment--its to be used.
With that in mind all of my modifications are to increase the "livability" of the coach, make it ours and in general add things that the manufacturer didn't design in.
.....

I agree with you!

I have had PopUps, 5th wheels, and three motorhomes. And when selling all of them, they have been kept virtually "stock".

The new owners shopping for and purchasing a used RV really liked that they would be able to modify it themselves and were willing to pay top dollar for a virgin "stock" RV.

I too will install doodads that increase the livability, (GPS, LEDs, USB ports, Vent covers, extend-a-stay propane adapter, etc....). The Oxgenics shower head was the 1st thing I replaced. But, I have the unused original shower head which will go back on when it's time to sell, (and so will all of the other removable and reusable items).