mounting Solar panels on a TPO roof

[tinman01]

Originally Posted by Thehobe1

Looks to me like you have them mounted for a very Northern RV park! Typical central US angle is probably more like 20-30 degrees.

I did want the capability tilting, but I doubt I will actually tilt them very often, its mostly for cleaning and maintenance. All I have to do is shorten the tilt bracket for different angles if needed once we get on the road. I like to have as much flexibility as I can so they will adapt to any situation.

[Thehobe1]

Originally Posted by greenjeans1412

I accidentally found this out while climbing up my ladder early one morning. The dew formation clearly outlined where they were. Not the safest environment but was "quick and dirty"

You should mention this as a way to find the support members.

[DenverTransplant]

Originally Posted by tinman01

One thing that drove me crazy (I know short drive) was when I would put it in the shop they would leave it sit for a long time without disconnecting the batteries and they would go dead, way past 50%, so now I will have a charge going to them and hopefully avoid that.

You know that now they will store your coach indoors with the lights out

[Edk]

Finally got my pv panels mounted on the SK. Didn't install tilt brackets as originally thought. I'm not going up there unless something is broke and needs repair. Haven't done a test yet, on how long those batteries keep that residential fridge going. Time will tell. Ejk

[rvman]

I have a 2014 Challenger gt and am going to start this same project shortly. Bought the 200w system.

One question I didn't see posted was how did you run the wires to the batteries. looks like the pictures show using the satellite area. I have a "wingaurd tv/data" cap on the roof and was wondering if I should use that.

[tinman01]

Originally Posted by rvman

I have a 2014 Challenger gt and am going to start this same project shortly. Bought the 200w system.

One question I didn't see posted was how did you run the wires to the batteries. looks like the pictures show using the satellite area. I have a "wingaurd tv/data" cap on the roof and was wondering if I should use that.

On the roof by the sat dish was a square plate where the sat cable entered. I ran the wires down past the control panel and made the turn to the bath room wall and down to the floor and back behind the fuse box.

Then I followed the wires into the storage bin and along the top outside edge all the way to the batteries.

Be sure to pull an extra string along with the power cable to make it easier for future add ons. I pulled two and have all ready used one.

Good luck let me know how it works out.

Oh and there is also the area inside the closet (for the W/D). The wall next to the toilet has a lot of room but you would have to drill up from inside the closet to make sure your lined up correctly

Don

[Bob Denman]

Since it seems to be a plywood roof over top of the trusses: do you think that just running the screws into the plywood, would anchor them sufficiently?

[rvman]

Thanks Don, I didn't see a plate so will look for that. I do have a cap and am wondering if that may lead to that area. Will check. Good tip on the WD area. I remember that being open. My batteries are first compartment left front so would be great to have an area closer to the front.

How many batteries do you have installed. Not sure if your are the same but I have 2 6v and the pump is there so dont see a way to ass more.

[tinman01]

Originally Posted by Bob Denman

Since it seems to be a plywood roof over top of the trusses: do you think that just running the screws into the plywood, would anchor them sufficiently?

I would not, just call Thor and request the schematics for your VIN number. Make sure you get all of them for your rig, Electrical, Water, Slides, and structural. With mine the trusses are varied but I knew there was one in front of and just behind the air conditioners so I went from there and just measured.

The wood they use is really thin and won't hold much.

Don

[tinman01]

Originally Posted by rvman

Thanks Don, I didn't see a plate so will look for that. I do have a cap and am wondering if that may lead to that area. Will check. Good tip on the WD area. I remember that being open. My batteries are first compartment left front so would be great to have an area closer to the front.

How many batteries do you have installed. Not sure if your are the same but I have 2 6v and the pump is there so dont see a way to ass more.

I think we have the same rig, 2014.5 Thor Challenger 37GT. The batteries are in the front compartment - 2 -6 Volt, I used the next compartment back and put 4 more 6 Volt trojan 225 amp hour batteries. A total of 6 batteries for 675 amp hours total. I picked up a tub at home depot that was big enough to hold them (with a lid) and vented through the wall into the front battery compartment. I drilled a few holes in the wall and used a 2" hose with some screen to keep the bugs out for venting just make sure it is sealed so all gasses are vented properly.

Although this is a pass through compartment this worked out great as it gave me a place in that one compartment (the one with the inverter, 2nd back) to put my MPPT controller and sub panel and inline fuse for the solar. I even have room in front of the battery bin to put extra water, testers, paper towels and such, and the top of the bin holds my battery tester and manuals for the MPPT controller and what ever.

I did put a piece of 3/4" plywood down on the floor just for a little extra support.

[rvman]

Originally Posted by tinman01

I think we have the same rig, 2014.5 Thor Challenger 37GT. The batteries are in the front compartment - 2 -6 Volt, I used the next compartment back and put 4 more 6 Volt trojan 225 amp hour batteries. A total of 6 batteries for 675 amp hours total. I picked up a tub at home depot that was big enough to hold them (with a lid) and vented through the wall into the front battery compartment. I drilled a few holes in the wall and used a 2" hose with some screen to keep the bugs out for venting just make sure it is sealed so all gasses are vented properly.

Although this is a pass through compartment this worked out great as it gave me a place in that one compartment (the one with the inverter, 2nd back) to put my MPPT controller and sub panel and inline fuse for the solar. I even have room in front of the battery bin to put extra water, testers, paper towels and such, and the top of the bin holds my battery tester and manuals for the MPPT controller and what ever.

I did put a piece of 3/4" plywood down on the floor just for a little extra support.

Oh thats a great idea ! I had been thinking of installing a tray in back of the current batteries but next to is better. I had not thought of that

Will keep you posted on the progress. Going to call thor on the diagrams also

Jeff

[Bob Denman]

Originally Posted by tinman01

I would not, just call Thor and request the schematics for your VIN number.
The wood they use is really thin and won't hold much.
Don

I will; Thanks!

[scrubjaysnest]

Originally Posted by Bob Denman

Since it seems to be a plywood roof over top of the trusses: do you think that just running the screws into the plywood, would anchor them sufficiently?

Don't know for sure on an Outlaw but this works fine on an Axis. I made my own z brackets 6 inches long and 4 # 10 SS screws 1 inch long per bracket. Also used a sealant/glue and the Dicor self leveling over all. 5 k miles so far at speeds to 65 mph. Sky light for the bathroom breaks the wind a little for one panel and refeer vent the other panel.

[Bob Denman]

I'll call Thor this week, and track down some schematics for the framing, wiring, and plumbing...
Even if I can't get ALL of the screws into something really solid: I'll figure on getting as many as I can...

[Long & Winding road]

Bob, I plan on installing solar sometime this year so I might just look for the "Dew outline" on the roof (some early morning) since the Thor info is not very accurate (and the studs seem to be at random spacing).

Plus I have read many times over that owners using screw anchor and / or liquid nail to installing where they want and they dont worry about the stud locations. But it would be nice to hit the studs on some if not most of the srews. Let us know how it works out.