My Inverter Plan

[Philo Gemstone]

I've been contemplating various ways of implementing an inverter in my rig, and here's what I've settled on:

Mount a 2000 watt inverter to a wooden board and hard wire the AC output to a female 30 amp receptacle, also mounted to the board.

Two pairs of battery cables, one pair from the batteries and one pair to the inverter, with quick connectors.

To use, I would position the inverter just under the battery well, flip the breaker on the converter, connect the shore power cable to the receptacle, quick connect the battery and turn the inverter on. The RV now has all AC devices powered. Obviously, I'm not going to run the air conditioner, but everything else should work. Sound reasonable?

I assume I'll need a separate quick connect pair for the AC ground connector, right?

Anything I'm missing? Fuse protection, maybe?

[taylorbob1]

Read this thread and watch the videos.
This method is a great way to wire a small inverter to your Vegas/Axis.

https://www.thorforums.com/forums/sh...73&postcount=4

[Philo Gemstone]

Thanks, the full hardwire install with automatic transfer switching is still under consideration, but is beyond my DIY skills. I'd need to significantly increase my budget for a professional install, and I'm not quite ready to have the rig torn up and put back together.

[DavidEM]

I would submit that an inverter with an internal transfer switch and hardwired battery cables permanently mounted would be a lot better solution than what you are proposing to do, and maybe even easier for a DIYer to install.

David

[Chance]

Originally Posted by Philo Gemstone

I've been contemplating various ways of implementing an inverter in my rig, and here's what I've settled on:

Mount a 2000 watt inverter to a wooden board and hard wire the AC output to a female 30 amp receptacle, also mounted to the board.

Two pairs of battery cables, one pair from the batteries and one pair to the inverter, with quick connectors.

To use, I would position the inverter just under the battery well, flip the breaker on the converter, connect the shore power cable to the receptacle, quick connect the battery and turn the inverter on. The RV now has all AC devices powered. Obviously, I'm not going to run the air conditioner, but everything else should work. Sound reasonable?

I assume I'll need a separate quick connect pair for the AC ground connector, right?

Anything I'm missing? Fuse protection, maybe?

For a temporary setup, why the board? Is it just to secure it? Or why the 30-Amp female receptacle?

Many inverters come with a 20-Amp (or a couple of them) receptacles, so unless you’re planning to operate close to 2,000 Watts for long periods, why not use an adaptor? A 2,000-Watt inverter is rated under 20 Amps.

If you plan to use much power, your batteries won’t last anyways. Your microwave may run for a few minutes but if longer, you might want to start generator instead. For low power loads like electronics I don’t see why it should not work.

[Philo Gemstone]

Originally Posted by Chance

For a temporary setup, why the board? Is it just to secure it? Or why the 30-Amp female receptacle?

Many inverters come with a 20-Amp (or a couple of them) receptacles, so unless you’re planning to operate close to 2,000 Watts for long periods, why not use an adaptor? A 2,000-Watt inverter is rated under 20 Amps.

If you plan to use much power, your batteries won’t last anyways. Your microwave may run for a few minutes but if longer, you might want to start generator instead. For low power loads like electronics I don’t see why it should not work.

Because the inverter would be sitting on the ground, it seemed that mounting it to a board would provide some stability and safety. And yes, no real need for the 30amp receptacle. The most I'd ever be drawing would be 1.5KW for our Nespresso and microwave (not at the same time).

[Chance]

Originally Posted by Philo Gemstone

Because the inverter would be sitting on the ground, it seemed that mounting it to a board would provide some stability and safety. And yes, no real need for the 30amp receptacle. The most I'd ever be drawing would be 1.5KW for our Nespresso and microwave (not at the same time).

Have you thought of placing it inside one of the storage compartments? Seems safer and protects it from rain. I have temporarily wired my smaller 400/800 Watt in similar manner, but left it inside and ran an extension cord outside to 30A.

[Philo Gemstone]

The only issue with keeping it in a storage bin is wire management. Keeping it as close as physically possible to the batteries seemed an improvement. But I'll revisit the storage bins.

[sportcoupe]

Running the entire coach 120v system from the 2000 watt inverter powered by the house batteries will pose a problem. The entire 120V circuit being energized will activate the rv 12v converter and it will try it's best to charge the house batteries while you drain them.

You would of course flip circuit breakers on high current draw items but do you want this manual control? Maybe you do?

[Philo Gemstone]

Originally Posted by sportcoupe

Running the entire coach 120v system from the 2000 watt inverter powered by the house batteries will pose a problem. The entire 120V circuit being energized will activate the rv 12v converter and it will try it's best to charge the house batteries while you drain them.

You would of course flip circuit breakers on high current draw items but do you want this manual control? Maybe you do?

I would flip the converter breaker, and keep the air conditioning turned off. The fridge is 12-volt only, but I assume with the converter off, there would be no impact.

I appreciate all the input.

[Chance]

Originally Posted by Philo Gemstone

I would flip the converter breaker, and keep the air conditioning turned off. The fridge is 12-volt only, but I assume with the converter off, there would be no impact.

I appreciate all the input.

You mentioned that in OP.

Also don’t forget turning off water heater (think yours is gas/electric).

With 12V fridge, your batteries will likely require charging regularly, so if boondocking you’ll have to run generator occasionally (unless you add a ton of solar). Inverter should extend quiet time during low-power periods.

[The_Breeze]

There are a lot of things not being discussed yet that could be part of your implementation plan.

Here's something that could help. Try to leverage it best you can and don't be afraid to ask questions. They have a section for newbs. Take your time, research and execute: https://diysolarforum.com

It mentions solar and as you'll see it goes into inverters, wire sizes, battery banks, battery types, distances, etc - that would be the part you're most interested in for your application.

https://www.parkedinparadise.com/wiring/

Good luck.

[Philo Gemstone]

Originally Posted by The_Breeze

There are a lot of things not being discussed yet that could be part of your implementation plan.

Here's something that could help. Try to leverage it best you can and don't be afraid to ask questions. They have a section for newbs. Take your time, research and execute: https://diysolarforum.com

It mentions solar and as you'll see it goes into inverters, wire sizes, battery banks, battery types, distances, etc - that would be the part you're most interested in for your application.

https://www.parkedinparadise.com/wiring/

Good luck.

Thanks - one of the options I've been considering is the Bluetti AC200 Max. It's expensive, but it would give me the ability to manage a home power outage when not on the road.

[Chance]

Originally Posted by Philo Gemstone

Thanks - one of the options I've been considering is the Bluetti AC200 Max. It's expensive, but it would give me the ability to manage a home power outage when not on the road.

You’re correct that they are expensive, but the ease of expanding the lithium battery capacity as needed is a real plus. I was recently looking at those, and also other similar brands, to replace my generator when I had issues with it. I could start with smaller battery for microwave, coffee, fan, etc. and expand as needed to power my air conditioner overnight.

Was able to get generator running, so put it off for now. Delivery was too long for my needs this fall anyway.

[Scubawise]

My wife loves her coffee before 7am ..so the inverter is used often..she hates generator noise..
We use the inverter to watch any TV

good luck

[The_Breeze]

Originally Posted by Philo Gemstone

Thanks - one of the options I've been considering is the Bluetti AC200 Max. It's expensive, but it would give me the ability to manage a home power outage when not on the road.

Put it out there. See what comes back to you.

I do a lot of boondocking. Almost exclusively. My needs seem different. My equipment is a long drawn out story and irrelevant to your needs as you described them.

Use that forum. It's the most accurate and trusted source I've run into. Moreover, there's a lot of technical support available from solar-related manufacturers and knowledgeable folks to keep them in check.

Good luck.

[rsgarrett]

Originally Posted by Philo Gemstone

I've been contemplating various ways of implementing an inverter in my rig, and here's what I've settled on:

Mount a 2000 watt inverter to a wooden board and hard wire the AC output to a female 30 amp receptacle, also mounted to the board.

Two pairs of battery cables, one pair from the batteries and one pair to the inverter, with quick connectors.

To use, I would position the inverter just under the battery well, flip the breaker on the converter, connect the shore power cable to the receptacle, quick connect the battery and turn the inverter on. The RV now has all AC devices powered. Obviously, I'm not going to run the air conditioner, but everything else should work. Sound reasonable?

I assume I'll need a separate quick connect pair for the AC ground connector, right?

Anything I'm missing? Fuse protection, maybe?

I went more or less the same way, but simpler. I use a heavy length of extension cord to run from the ac outputs of my 2300 watt inverter to the storage bay just underneath the external power port for connecting to campground supply. You can get an outlet port to add to the storage bay, and when I want to boondock, I just turn off the converter, then plug the coach into the inverter in the same way I would plug it into a campground power supply. Turn on the inverter with the remote switch, and all outlets, tv's, etc are powered up with little hassle. The converter must be turned off to avoid a battery-inverter-converter-battery loop. It was easy, and works fine, with no dependence on expensive and unreliable transfer switches, etc. I usually turn off the inverter with the remote overnight to avoid useless drain on the batteries.

[taylorbob1]

Originally Posted by rsgarrett

I went more or less the same way, but simpler. I use a heavy length of extension cord to run from the ac outputs of my 2300 watt inverter to the storage bay just underneath the external power port for connecting to campground supply. You can get an outlet port to add to the storage bay, and when I want to boondock, I just turn off the converter, then plug the coach into the inverter in the same way I would plug it into a campground power supply. Turn on the inverter with the remote switch, and all outlets, tv's, etc are powered up with little hassle. The converter must be turned off to avoid a battery-inverter-converter-battery loop. It was easy, and works fine, with no dependence on expensive and unreliable transfer switches, etc. I usually turn off the inverter with the remote overnight to avoid useless drain on the batteries.

To each his own,
But personally I don’t like all the work involved in setting up the inverter each time I’m on the road.

I went with the EZ system outlined in the video package above.
$250 Inverter (1200/2000 watt) with built-in auto transfer switch & remote power switch at the entry door.
Works perfect with two FLA batteries and 300 watts of solar on the roof.

It powers the non-GFI outlet lines (with a slight mod to include outside TV).
So when parked it’ll run the Trav’ler Dish, DVD players, and all 3 TVs.

Also, if desired with the inverter, I can power the Absorption Refrigerator via 120volt power while driving, instead of propane.

[rsgarrett]

What work? I plug in the same way I would plug into any power source. The inverter input is always connected to the batteries, with a 20a breaker to isolate if desired, the outputs are ready to be plugged into the coach, and the inverter has a push button remote inside the coach. Three steps: converter off (flip one breaker), plug in (seconds, as the cord is ready and easily available near the connector port) and push button to turn on inverter (< 1 second). No fussing with mods to get certain things connected, as they all are connected immediately. Saves hundreds and no unreliable parts.

[Scubawise]

Originally Posted by taylorbob1

To each his own,
But personally I don’t like all the work involved in setting up the inverter each time I’m on the road.

I went with the EZ system outlined in the video package above.
$250 Inverter (1200/2000 watt) with built-in auto transfer switch & remote power switch at the entry door.
Works perfect with two FLA batteries and 300 watts of solar on the roof.

It powers the non-GFI outlet lines (with a slight mod to include outside TV).
So when parked it’ll run the Trav’ler Dish, DVD players, and all 3 TVs.

Also, if desired with the inverter, I can power the Absorption Refrigerator via 120volt power while driving, instead of propane.

Same setup except my tech did not recommend inverter for refrigerator

Also, if desired with the inverter, I can power the Absorption Refrigerator via 120volt power while driving, instead of propane.